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Group Buy Poll for Mono-Block Forged Alloy Wheels by Titan 7
- Thread starter Xenoilphobe
- Start date
You wouldn't have to wait 3 months that way - they are in stock. At least, if you are good with 18" black or satin tit.
I personally am waiting since Titan7 doesn't currently make/stock a 19" wheel, nor anything that would fit in bronze.
19x9 Bronze will be worth the wait!
More details - 20 X 8.5 +30 weighs 19.75 pounds
20 X 10 +40 weighs 21.45 pounds
20 X 9 weight is probably close to 20.75 pounds.
20 X 10 +40 weighs 21.45 pounds
20 X 9 weight is probably close to 20.75 pounds.
Your estimate was on the money. 20 X 9 should weigh about 20.75- 21.00, so you would drop 2.3ish lbs per corner. So on the high side estimate is 9.2 lbs (2.3 weight savings per corner) and best case 10.2 lbs..(2.55 weight savings per corner). So you were on the money if the specs are right.
Circling back on the TPMS question:
I e-mailed Evasive to inquire about including TMPS stems. Will report back with their response.
A.f.a. the sensors themselves, what is everyone planning on running? From what research I've done (ref 1, ref 2), it's not clear if the 3 has the same TPMS as the S/X, but it shouldn't really matter depending on what you get.
Edit: Sorry, screwed this up the first time, the 2nd link is updated and do 'not' mention they are pre-programmed. I can't find a clear answer whether they need programming, but this thread and another thread imply that they do. Can anyone confirm?
M3 specific TPMS:
ITM Uni-Sensor (single): $26 shipped
ITM Uni-Sensors (4): $106.75 shipped
TireRack also have some but they aren't quite as cost-effective:
TireRack: $188 shipped
I e-mailed Evasive to inquire about including TMPS stems. Will report back with their response.
A.f.a. the sensors themselves, what is everyone planning on running? From what research I've done (ref 1, ref 2), it's not clear if the 3 has the same TPMS as the S/X, but it shouldn't really matter depending on what you get.
Edit: Sorry, screwed this up the first time, the 2nd link is updated and do 'not' mention they are pre-programmed. I can't find a clear answer whether they need programming, but this thread and another thread imply that they do. Can anyone confirm?
M3 specific TPMS:
ITM Uni-Sensor (single): $26 shipped
ITM Uni-Sensors (4): $106.75 shipped
TireRack also have some but they aren't quite as cost-effective:
TireRack: $188 shipped
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Luis3rD
Member
I just found some 433mhz Pilot TPMS on Amazon for $5.99 ea. / $25.99 per set.
They clearly say programmable, but I wonder if the $75 saved is really worth it. Probably cheap as hell, if they can even be programmed to a Model 3. Anyone feeling brave?
They clearly say programmable, but I wonder if the $75 saved is really worth it. Probably cheap as hell, if they can even be programmed to a Model 3. Anyone feeling brave?
Ps, here's the response I got from TPMS_Authority (Ebay) re: the ITM Unisensors. No programming req'd, just re-learn:
All sensors are pre-programmed before they’re shipped so all you need to do is run the relearn procedure in
order to sync the sensors with your vehicle. These instructions should be in your vehicle’s owner’s manual.
order to sync the sensors with your vehicle. These instructions should be in your vehicle’s owner’s manual.
Mike from Evasive called today about my order. They are at 3 sets for the S5 18". Need to go to 6 for production. Just an update for fence sitters.
First batch details going into production.
19x8.5 +40 bronze - 1 set
19x8.5 +40 satin titanium – 2 sets
19x8.5 + 40 matte black – 1 set
19x9 +35 bronze – 1 set
19x9 +35 satin titanium – 2 sets
19x9 +35 matte black – 1 set
19x8.5+40
19x9 +35 satin titanium staggered - 1 set
I have ordered one of the sets of 18 x 8.5 +39mm but was considering changing to 18 x 8.5 +35mm offset as I have a Performance model. I hadn't really thought through how the rotor difference impacted the scrub radius but my initial inclination was not to change the performance characteristics of the car. As others are making the same decision I thought I'd share my thoughts and questions.
- On a non-performance 3 (with +40mm offset wheels), the wheel centerline is 40mm towards the centerline of the car from the rotor hat (by definition of wheel offset.)
- On a performance 3 (with +35mm offset wheels but a 3mm thinner rotor hat), the wheel centerline is 38mm towards the centerline of the car relative to the tip of the 3mm lip (aka the plane of the non-performance rotor hat.)
- On a performance 3 (with +39mm offset wheels but a 3mm thinner rotor hat), the wheel centerline is 42mm towards the centerline of the car relative to the tip of the 3mm lip (aka the plane of the non-performance rotor hat.)
- 2mm greater on the performance 3 than the non-performance (both with factory wheels)
- 2mm less on the performance 3 with +39 offset wheels than the non-performance with factory wheel
So any scrub radius experts have thoughts? Will we be able to tell any difference either way?
a link to a Model S suspension walkthru
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A 2mm change in scrub radius would be difficult to detect in the way of contact patch, steering pivot and overall handling, and probably less so on a dual motor/AWD. RWD models might pickup a slight toe in/out on accel and decel or corner-pull but again with 2mm scrub change it might be hard to feel for the average driver.
Personally I avoid zero (and - for that matter) SR intentionally because it provides very little steering feedback. And as you mentioned, a small amount of +SR or more is common for this reason. I'd be more concerned with bearing failure but even that risk is minimal with a such a small shift. It really depends on the overall suspension setup and geometry, and how much strain is created/tolerable considering the sum of all parts.
For example, on my 12' STI hatch I ran 35 ET with 10mm spacers to flush the wheels to the fender and never had hub/strut/other component failure or issues in 7 years with that car even after dozens of track days. However I also had beefy aftermarket components (struts/springs, c-arms, lateral links, bushings, subframe/strut braces, etc.) on a vehicle that came stock with components proven over 2 decades of competitive auto-x.
With a Model 3, things might not be so bullet-proof since adjustment is a bit limited (no front camber) and the aftermarket is still pretty sparse, but I think anything in the <10mm range will be fine. Get into the 25-20 ET range or more it could likely become an issue, causing premature hub bearing failure and so on. But at this stage I think the 3 is still too new to really say.
If it makes you feel any better, I'm running the 35 ET most likely with a 5-10mm spacer and will see how things go. It's a 30 min job to yank the wheels and remove 4 spacers if it's at all squirrely.
Personally I avoid zero (and - for that matter) SR intentionally because it provides very little steering feedback. And as you mentioned, a small amount of +SR or more is common for this reason. I'd be more concerned with bearing failure but even that risk is minimal with a such a small shift. It really depends on the overall suspension setup and geometry, and how much strain is created/tolerable considering the sum of all parts.
For example, on my 12' STI hatch I ran 35 ET with 10mm spacers to flush the wheels to the fender and never had hub/strut/other component failure or issues in 7 years with that car even after dozens of track days. However I also had beefy aftermarket components (struts/springs, c-arms, lateral links, bushings, subframe/strut braces, etc.) on a vehicle that came stock with components proven over 2 decades of competitive auto-x.
With a Model 3, things might not be so bullet-proof since adjustment is a bit limited (no front camber) and the aftermarket is still pretty sparse, but I think anything in the <10mm range will be fine. Get into the 25-20 ET range or more it could likely become an issue, causing premature hub bearing failure and so on. But at this stage I think the 3 is still too new to really say.
If it makes you feel any better, I'm running the 35 ET most likely with a 5-10mm spacer and will see how things go. It's a 30 min job to yank the wheels and remove 4 spacers if it's at all squirrely.
Mike asked me if I was willing to change to +35. After reading words like bearing failure, not so bullet proof, and slight toe in/out on accel and decel or corner-pull. I have no desire to change. Again I want wheels that are not causing me issues even minor ones. I drive 40 to 50k a year, and will never be on a track. Sorry to not be accommodating, but that is what you get in the early stages of custom orders.
Just to clarify. Awesome wheels, just not looking for what most of you are.
Just to clarify. Awesome wheels, just not looking for what most of you are.
What is strange is we got 21 votes in the survey for that size and not a single deposit placed.
Maybe because they don't offer the 19x9.5 yet? I'm still hoping for 19x8.5 +35 and 19x9.5 +40 or 19x9.0 +35 (already offered) and 19x10.0 +40.
Yep, I would have put a deposit on 19x9.5 but it wasn't an option on their website. I will e-mail and ask Mike to add it/switch mine if it's possible. Suggest anyone else who ordered 19x9 or other do the same, we should be able to get a set quickly!
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