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Which mono block forged wheel size, color and style would you like?


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At highway speeds the weight difference is almost negligible. Weight only really matters when accelerating, so around town lower weight will have a measurable effect.
As far as the rolling resistance, it is likely to be a linear increase in proportion to your existing tire width. I'd estimate 265 width (with identical compounds and tire pressures) will be about 10-15% less efficient on the highway than the stock width.
 
Though rolling resistance may be higher for a wider tire, the larger effect may greater aerodynamic drag from wider wheels. That said, the Aero wheels and Primacy energy tires are definitely more energy efficient than the factory 20 inch wheels and Pilot Sport 4S tires. So tire type and profile definitely have an effect in addition to wheel diameter, etc.

Unless you're going to track your car or drive it extremely hard (possibly illegally) on the street, I would recommend 8.5 inch wide wheels.

I'm considering getting 19x8.5 for the street and 19x9.5 for the track.
 
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At highway speeds the weight difference is almost negligible. Weight only really matters when accelerating, so around town lower weight will have a measurable effect.
As far as the rolling resistance, it is likely to be a linear increase in proportion to your existing tire width. I'd estimate 265 width (with identical compounds and tire pressures) will be about 10-15% less efficient on the highway than the stock width.
Consider that everything a wheel does, other than when on a perfectly flat road at a perfectly constant speed (which never truly happens in the real world), is an acceleration. That includes moving vertically over a bump or pothole. Lighter wheels not only accelerate and decelerate more efficiently (to speed up or down the car), they also handle anything that moves the wheels up or down better, including handling in a bumpy turn, etc. So they also corner better.

Also rotational kinetic energy goes up as the square of angular velocity, so at highway speeds, the energy needed to spin up (or down) a heavier wheel (for example to accelerate or decelerate the car) is much higher than at low speeds, so your first point is incorrect.
 
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I’d like more info as to which part of the 20’s make it so much worse than the 18’s. Same width tires, but the wheels are 50% heavier. The tires aren’t even ridiculously sticky.
The factory 20 looks like a relatively heavy design to me with very thick spokes.

A larger wheel of given construction will always be heavier, but this design (which seems to be an extension of the 19s) is probably not particularly light to begin with.
 
I had my 20” wheels off installing spacers, so I happen to think to weigh them. 53.6 pounds plus the spacer. Tire Rack says it’s 23 pounds for the tire, so the 30lb for the wheel is pretty spot on.

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P3D+ Stock wheels:
Michelin 235/35ZR20 (92Y) XL costs $340:eek: (with Acoustic foam inserts) and weighs ~ 22.69 lb. + 28.75 lb. wheel !!! = 51.44 (sans TPMS) and based on the actual measurement above the foam and TPMS must add more weight since it was 53.6 lb.!!!!:eek::eek: Even the 19 inch wheel is heavy - 25 lbs..

Every time I see those stock 20 inch wheels I see this as the center cap, put two of those on each axle of your road bike and go ride around to see feel the load that your car is dealing with.

91bUNAkP-UL._SX425_.jpg
So to be fair add some weight to the stats below for the TPMS... we are still talking ~ 10 lbs per corner in the 20 inch mono-block alloy wheel fitment!!!:p
Michelin 235/35ZR20 (92Y) XL costs $340:eek: (with Acoustic foam inserts) and weighs ~ 22.69 lb. + 19.75 lbs wheel = 42.44 lbs:D
Michelin 235/40ZR19 (96Y) XL costs $271:) and weights ~ 24.82 lb. + 19.6 lb. wheel = 44.42 lb.;)
Michelin 235/45ZR18 (98Y) XL costs $219:D and weighs ~ 24.82 lb. + 18.3 lb. wheel = 43.12 lb.:)

So while the tires are a little heavier, you can switch up brands to get even lower on those too.... the stock 20 inch wheel is a freaking boat anchor!!!

Source for tire data: https://www.michelinman.com/upload/michelin_us/specifications/specs-pilot-sport-4s.pdf
Source for wheel data: The Tesla Model 3 Wheel and Tire Guide
 
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DAMNIT - the lightest package are the 20" !!!! :)

They will also lighten your wallet by an additional ~$2000 for the initial buy and another ~$500 every twelve months over the 18 inch fitment. You can keep that 0.68 of a pound, which will require you to pay $4000 in wheels and another $1350 in rubber every 12 months, verses the 18 inch wheels @~ $2000 and rubber @ ~ $800 every 12 months.

Yeah... I'll take the half pound burger for ~ $2500 -- NOT!!!! Not to mention the road hazards and waiting on custom wheels that I have damaged...yeah no thanks... those high heels look good, but I can't run a daily driver in them where I live.

Give me girl in sticky tennis shoes who can run and likes to get brake dust on her! Those 20's are like a high maintenance girlfriend... I will pass.. they are expensive, fragile, and come with a heavy operations and maintenance tail...;)

Or just buy the P Zeroes (PZ4) in 18 they only weigh 22 lbs and you beat the 20 inch weight.

22 lbs. tire + 18.3 lbs. wheel = 40.3 lbs.... now you are down to 12 lbs per corner verses the stock boat anchors. Almost 50 lbs of rotational mass and unsprung weight!!!
 
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@Xenoilphobe I am going to nickname you "FedEx" because you always deliver ;)

My reply was tongue-in-cheek but i appreciate the breakdown!

I am also not going to drop "that" much money on rims and I love the 18s (coming from 15 and 16s!)

My goal was to drop some rotational and unsprung weight. That half-pound weight... can I haz a cheeseburger instead? :)
 
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