Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[HitUpOlas]

Thanks for the video. I'm about to attempt the rear deck removal to refit the missing speakers in my May 2020 build car following your video. Did you have many dramas getting it back in again? I saw your mention re the clips in the video. I also saw someone else having issue lining up the rear brake light.
I'm not so bothered by the refresh - USB C is nowehere near as reliable as USB A and the console is meh. rear boot electric lift would have been a nice to have but no big deal

The part you need to be most careful of is disconnecting the antenna wiring and when doing it not damaging the ribbon connections. I really didn’t a good shot of that in the video. Just take you’re time with that part.

When installing the shelf back in the car you need to align the rear two tabs and push down on the sides where the tabs are that I highlight in the video.

Best of luck. Message me if you hit any road blocks.

 

[William_Chan]

For those who have high requirements for the effect of subwoofer, we recommend you to choose the OEM style aluminum alloy subwoofer package,
Version C,D,F series with this subwoofer inside.
Model 3 SR Premium Audio Upgrade|hansshow autopart factory

 

[KitchenerSR+]

try reversing the purple wires for the sub, that fixed my low sub volume for version b

Thanks, they advised me on that during my multi-hour session of hunting reversed polarities and stereo balance between the rear doors and shelf. It's still comically weak and the door woofers suck compared to before. Mids and highs are great but the low is terrible.

 

[KitchenerSR+]

For those who have high requirements for the effect of subwoofer, we recommend you to choose the OEM style aluminum alloy subwoofer package,
Version C,D,F series with this subwoofer inside.
Model 3 SR Premium Audio Upgrade|hansshow autopart factory

Do you offer it separately? What are its specs? power consumption, etc. I already spent money on the B-version subwoofer with low expectations/requirements and it is terrible plus my door woofers have half the bass they used to and I still haven't heard back about a solution for that. After all of the work troubleshooting the various issues with the harness throughout the car and switching the rear wires to the sub it is still very quiet.

 

[beachsideev]

Thanks, they advised me on that during my multi-hour session of hunting reversed polarities and stereo balance between the rear doors and shelf. It's still comically weak and the door woofers suck compared to before. Mids and highs are great but the low is terrible.

Have you tried using a polarity checker? Either an app or the amazon one? The app is finicky but I think you can get useable results if you are careful.

 

[JBHemlock]

Do you offer it separately? What are its specs? power consumption, etc. I already spent money on the B-version subwoofer with low expectations/requirements and it is terrible plus my door woofers have half the bass they used to and I still haven't heard back about a solution for that. After all of the work troubleshooting the various issues with the harness throughout the car and switching the rear wires to the sub it is still very quiet.

I'm curious about that, too. I bought the version E set before you started offering the version F sub. The version E sub is okay, but I wouldn't mind more punch.

 

[Swamprat96]

I need to make a harness for the rear speakers. I can knock up something with a different plug but it would be great if I could track down the pins used in the existing plug then just add the missing connections. Anyone got any leads?

 

[KitchenerSR+]

Have you tried using a polarity checker? Either an app or the amazon one? The app is finicky but I think you can get useable results if you are careful.

No app, I'll check one out, thanks! But I do have experience installing car stereos and the polarity was wrong on the sub for sure, the channels were reversed for both the shelf speaker connection and the rear doors, separately. That was a pain. They suggested cutting the wires and swapping them but that's sloppy so I made a pin removal tool and swapped the wires in the harness, much cleaner.

 

[n30x]

Do you offer it separately? What are its specs? power consumption, etc. I already spent money on the B-version subwoofer with low expectations/requirements and it is terrible plus my door woofers have half the bass they used to and I still haven't heard back about a solution for that. After all of the work troubleshooting the various issues with the harness throughout the car and switching the rear wires to the sub it is still very quiet.

Just dont buy version F sub if you are not satisfied with the version B. You will buy again a sub, if which you dont have detailed specs, without a name and nobody can tell you if it is a good deal or not. Take the one that fritzner mentioned on page 49. I've connected the fosgate sub today (not mounted yet) and it is amazing. So much bass out of that small sub... Thats a product of which you know it will work great, also you already know that you can mount it in the original space, even if it is a bit tricky. For me there would be no reason to risk the money.

And for all the others who haven't bought their kit yet, go for the version F sub or try to get a quote for version B without the sub and install your own, because this will be the best choice.

 

[amorris]

Just dont buy version F sub if you are not satisfied with the version B. You will buy again a sub, if which you dont have detailed specs, without a name and nobody can tell you if it is a good deal or not. Take the one that fritzner mentioned on page 49. I've connected the fosgate sub today (not mounted yet) and it is amazing. So much bass out of that small sub... Thats a product of which you know it will work great, also you already know that you can mount it in the original space, even if it is a bit tricky. For me there would be no reason to risk the money.

And for all the others who haven't bought their kit yet, go for the version F sub or try to get a quote for version B without the sub and install your own, because this will be the best choice.

i installed a fosgate p300-10 last night. Honestly I’m underwhelmed with it. Doesn’t go very low and I find the bass a bit muddy. For the price it’s ok, but I’m sending it back and doing something a lot better. I’m probably more picky than most people though. I’ve had a lot of audio gear when I was younger.

 

[kiNGng3]

i installed a fosgate p300-10 last night. Honestly I’m underwhelmed with it. Doesn’t go very low and I find the bass a bit muddy. For the price it’s ok, but I’m sending it back and doing something a lot better. I’m probably more picky than most people though. I’ve had a lot of audio gear when I was younger.

Go with the NVX sub package with your Tesla Offer harness into the Alpine DSP

 

[amorris]

Go with the NVX sub package with your Tesla Offer harness into the Alpine DSP

I’m definitely doing a Match DSP. Most likely their 7, but the 5 and nvx package would also work. The match is got all the power of the Helix DSP and there’s a really good local tuner, so I’m leaning on that.

 

[kiNGng3]

I’m definitely doing a Match DSP. Most likely their 7, but the 5 and nvx package would also work. The match is got all the power of the Helix DSP and there’s a really good local tuner, so I’m leaning on that.

Funny thing I read your post on the NVX thread! Good stuff!

 

[beachsideev]

No app, I'll check one out, thanks! But I do have experience installing car stereos and the polarity was wrong on the sub for sure, the channels were reversed for both the shelf speaker connection and the rear doors, separately. That was a pain. They suggested cutting the wires and swapping them but that's sloppy so I made a pin removal tool and swapped the wires in the harness, much cleaner.

I played with the app some more last night and came to the conclusion that I don't trust it. I can get different answers depending on the frequency of the pulse. Full range seems to be the most consistent but I still don't trust it 100%. I actually undid the polarity swap I made a couple of days ago and put the harness back in the way I received it.

For now I have given up fiddling with it and am just going to enjoy it as it is. Good luck with your quest.

 

[KitchenerSR+]

UPDATE: Good News!

A little backstory. I realized after connecting the harness (ver. A) that the door tweeter and rear-passenger right shelf speaker were noticeably louder. I knew and had a hunch that there was something off.

I ordered a $13 polarity tester at Amazon. I tested all speakers and I was right on the money. The polarity are reversed on both door tweeters and passenger rear-right shelf speaker. I reversed the wirings and when I powered it up to test. The Door woofers came back to life. Right away I could feel the thump. Everything is sorted out now but Hansshow need to do a better job making their harness. Reversed polarity, left and right channel are reversed.

My system is now complete. You can't even tell I have a subwoofer because everything are in sync now. Before reversing the polarity on the tweeters. All of the mids and bass were coming from the trunk. Now, the bass is inside the cabin and not at back.

I have a question. I see the DIY has a box module. I'm assuming it's a crossover? My Ver. A harness doesn't have it. It seems like the door and pillar speakers are tapped in the door woofer. Wouldn't this kill the tweeter without using any crossover?

Did you find that tester worked well? I tried an app but it gave inconsistent results. If that works well, I'll probably just pull the DSP out of underneath the console and swap the wires on the harness itself instead of tearing everything apart. It's also easier to check if the change worked.

 

[Kali_3]

Did you find that tester worked well? I tried an app but it gave inconsistent results. If that works well, I'll probably just pull the DSP out of underneath the console and swap the wires on the harness itself instead of tearing everything apart. It's also easier to check if the change worked.

Yes, I recommend it. I also tried the app when it was mentioned here. I got inconsistent result.

Swapping wires on the DSP is the easiest and fastest way. I would do that if I have a DSP.

 

[Kali_3]

I’m definitely doing a Match DSP. Most likely their 7, but the 5 and nvx package would also work. The match is got all the power of the Helix DSP and there’s a really good local tuner, so I’m leaning on that.

I was using Match 7 on my BMW. It's plug and play and highly recommend it. The Helix is good and easy to use and many tutorial in YouTube if you want to go that route. It was my first time using DSP and good thing the BMW community had many custom profile they already made. I just downloaded a few and listened to the one I like the best and tweaked it more to my liking.

 

[KitchenerSR+]

Yes, I recommend it. I also tried the app when it was mentioned here. I got inconsistent result.

Swapping wires on the DSP is the easiest and fastest way. I would do that if I have a DSP.

Thanks, I'll give it a try as the app seems like a crapshoot. I want my door woofers back. Once I resolve that I will probably turf the terrible Version B sub and go with the Rockford one mentioned in this thread. It's clear that it has much more power.

 

[KitchenerSR+]

I haven't posted any updates in a while, but here is an update of where I'm at with the version B kit. I'm happy to report that I'm very satisfied with the upgrade, but it was a bit of a struggle. Here is what I have done:
- fix the rear speaker harness to connect factory speakers
- reverse purple sub wires
- apply DSP fix.
The above made it pretty good, but today I did the following:
- increase bass boost to full (gain was already full).
- tweak DSP settings. I found that reducing the speaker volumes here and adding more bass and treble made it sound much better (to my ear, obviously this is a personal thing). I found the Hannshow DSP settings made the mids a bit overpowering on some songs. If anyone would like me to post the DSP settings I think I saved them to a file.

I can now feel the bass and have a nice pleasing sound that is much better than stock. The sub does not pound, so some may still be disappointed with it but I'm happy with what it delivers. It should have been easier, but I'm very pleased with the final result. I have not experienced the lack of bass from the front doors that people with Version E are reporting, and I have no problem with chime volume.

I was having issues with quiet door woofers on Version B and I tried messing with the polarity but gave up until I get a better tool than an app. Then I found this and used your DSP settings which really toned down the overpowering highs and mids to the point where the door subs were much better at mid-volume. They pound nicely, like original, at higher volumes. I also put the mids and highs down by 1.0 dB and the bass up by 2.0 dB in the regular equalizer and it sounds so much better. I may play with the DSP on my own but overall the improvement is significant. I highly recommend anyone with Version B try this. Still, I am likely going to still the sub with something decent like the Rockford solution that fits in the same spot. Thanks for your help and everyone else's here!

 

[amorris]

I was having issues with quiet door woofers on Version B and I tried messing with the polarity but gave up until I get a better tool than an app. Then I found this and used your DSP settings which really toned down the overpowering highs and mids to the point where the door subs were much better at mid-volume. They pound nicely, like original, at higher volumes. I also put the mids and highs down by 1.0 dB and the bass up by 2.0 dB in the regular equalizer and it sounds so much better. I may play with the DSP on my own but overall the improvement is significant. I highly recommend anyone with Version B try this. Still, I am likely going to still the sub with something decent like the Rockford solution that fits in the same spot. Thanks for your help and everyone else's here!

This is pretty much why I decided to go my own route with a high end DSP like the Match up 7. It uses the Helix DSP software which is super powerful and customizable. Pair that with a calibrated mic and a copy of REW and you should be able to get an amazing tune. My goal is to basically do DSP/AMP and sub for around $1300. But that’s also picking a quality 10” sub (which sorry, those fosgate self powered ones are just meh)