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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)
- Thread starter InfinitySky
- Start date
Emcp422
Member
So its been a while since i did my version E and after lots of adjustments, finally got it working right, haven't posted since, but i wanted to give a few words of encouragement to people thinking of using hanshow, and can only speak for verisions e and f, i just recently helped a couple people install 2 version E and a version F, looks like all the troubleshooting and developement we did for hanshow finally paid of for some people, because this were both plug and play and good out the box, so thats nice for new buyers, for us earliy adopters guess we get the unofficial bragging rights of having helped develop this final product
Ry3n
Member
What type of enclosure are you going to do? I think I would end up doing fiberglass(or stacked/combo) in the factory sub location. But I would want the amp and DSP back there as well. Would be interesting.
Ry3n
Member
I agree on this as well. From my experience, both version E and F are working out of the box and sounds great. Minor tweaks can still be done to fit the taste of the user, but at least things work as intended for the 'plug and play' side of things.
It is good that they are offering the C and D with the OEM style sub for those that want more punch at a lower cost.
No need to apologize. You are willing to spend a lot more on the sound than I am and it will show. Otherwise, I wouldn't have went the Hansshow route. I used to have two 12" subs in my car as a silly teenager so I get the desire for more bass. I think the Rockford solution will be okay, not great, but not mediocre like the Hansshow Version B sub.
I've ordered the NVX XLCA2 line output converter to clean out the door woofer feed and RCA output to the subwoofer directly. That way I think I should be able to get more bass by correcting the bass roll off and controlling it at that point. A bonus is I also get a bass knob to control from inside the car.
The XLCA2 is very low powered so I'll connect it to VC Right and ground in the trunk cavity.
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I purchased version B and had the issue with the rear L/R balance being switched. I was able to fix the rear shelf speakers by swapping the cables as shown in this clip,
Thanks for the note. I went ahead and followed your picture and was able to make the swap! One of the wire colors didn't match but everything was to the T in that diagram positionally. Now time to sit back and enjoy!
Well, I'm not sure what my problem is, if there is one.
I looked at the diy harness that connects between the ice and the factory wiring and the front door woofers do get passed through without going to the crossover box. I checked continuity for all of the orange wires (hansshows wire color for signals that are passed through) and nothing is crossed. That part appears to be wired correctly. I used this diagram to determine the speaker wiring at the ice connector:
Next I did some a/b testing with the extra speakers installed or removed by pausing a song in the middle and adding or removing the harness at the ice. If you don't plug the connectors in all the way you can still get conductivity but it doesn't latch so removing it is a lot easier.
The bass response sounded exactly the same to me with or without the harness installed. I tested the polarity again with the app and I got different results for the door woofers this time. Now both door woofers appear to have the correct polarity. One thing I did do differently this time when testing the polarity was i unplugged one of the connectors going into the crossover box to disable the door tweeters. I'm not sure why the door tweeter would be causing issues with the app, especially with an 80 hz pulse, but it seemed to give more consistent results with the door tweeters disabled.
I tested the rear shelf speaker I swapped yesterday and now that one is being detected as being backwards. Grrrrr. Again I was having trouble getting consistent results until I placed a towel on the back glass above the speaker to try to eliminate reflections off the glass. This seemed to make the results much more repeatable. Again I think the app might be too sensitive to reflections which cause erroneous results.
Anyway, I'm not sure what to do now. I have the harness hooked back up but I haven't reinstalled the panel to get at the wiring. I will probably undo the polarity swap I did to the right read shelf speaker. I also might try another app first.
What I am going to do now though is turn on the stereo and wax the car because that requires much less thought.
Where is this connection? I’m looking to install my DIY harness soon and I am curious where all the connections go.
This is located behind the bottom panel on passenger side. This plug is what you need to pull out from the OEM AMP and plug into the harness you ordered.
Brendwal
Member
Just finished my Version F install, after having been one of the first to install the $80US DIY activation harness version. While the DIY was decent as it did activate my tweeters, I still lacked the punch of a sub, so decided to wait and see how other versions evolved and played out. After 58 pages in this thread - lol - I can confirm that Version F hits the mark out of the box. Roughly 2.5-3 hours to remove the original DIY harness and install the F version. Didn’t even need to tweak the DSP settings. Set the Sub to max gain and everything is well balanced, no polarity issues, no balance issues. Everything sounds amazing!
amorris
Member
Interesting. The local high end car audio shop uses these for correcting factory bass roll off:
Wāvtech linkQ 2-channel bass EQ processor and line driver/output converter at Crutchfield
amorris
Member
For starters I’m going to do a Clarus 10” sub in the trunk well in a custom built MDF box that I’ll play with to see if I like ported or sealed best. The Match 7 DSP/amp is so tiny that it easily will fit in the factory sub area, which is my plan. At some point I’ll try my hand at fiberglassing and build one in the stock spot.
This is GOOD news!
Without the DIY remove, how long would you say the install was?
What year is your SR+ and did it have the rear shelf speakers or did you also install them? And if you installed them did you do it from the top via the grilles or by fully removing the entire rear shelf?
Thanks again!
Brendwal
Member
Mine is a March 2020 - no rear shelf speakers. The kit included them but I have not installed them yet as it’s a huge pain in the ass for very little gained IMHO. It sounds great without them. The Hansshow video shows them removing the grills from the top, where I have heard is not really as easy as it appears. Removing the entire shelf is just more than I want to tackle at this point for the limited return.
Removing the DIY didn’t really add much time as I had to remove the exact same trim panels and I knew where all the connectors were. That part went fast.
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I think the rear speakers are only really noticeable if you are sitting in the back seat.
The sound is pretty subjective. When my dad sat in the back he immediately noticed why there was no sound coming from behind him because he noticed there is a speaker grille there. Some people say the rear shelf is a substantial addition to the audio system, while other say it doesn’t make a difference. I have them in my car (Nov. 2019 build), so I might as well hook it up. I’d be interested to see if I notice the difference.
Brendwal
Member
I would obviously have hooked them up if they were there, but the extra work involved if they are not there is substantial and also involves cutting 4” holes in the rear deck as there are no actual holes on the deck beneath the grills. I ran all the wires from the DSP anyway and stowed them in the back by the sub if I ever need another rainy day project.
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