The sound is pretty subjective. When my dad sat in the back he immediately noticed why there was no sound coming from behind him because he noticed there is a speaker grille there. Some people say the rear shelf is a substantial addition to the audio system, while other say it doesn’t make a difference. I have them in my car (Nov. 2019 build), so I might as well hook it up. I’d be interested to see if I notice the difference.
I would obviously have hooked them up if they were there, but the extra work involved if they are not there is substantial and also involves cutting 4” holes in the rear deck as there are no actual holes on the deck beneath the grills. I ran all the wires from the DSP anyway and stowed them in the back by the sub if I ever need another rainy day project.
On the Version Kit. Anyone know where Hansshow got the signal for the remote wire for the sub amp? I'm not currently using it in my set up. I'm using the GTO on the LOC2i. I'm curious as I might use it in the future. Probably from the ICE 12V?
You can only hear the rear shelf speaker if you're sitting at the back. Driver and front passenger wouldn't hear it. When I sat in the back. I could hear it right away when I installed the kit. It is now more pleasant to sit at the back. You can also hear the highs sitting at the back coming from the front. Before, sitting in the back was bland. Just mids, can't hear any high and it's only coming from the door. It didn't have any dimension.
Just installed the DIY kit. Only one snag, initially the driver side rear shelf speaker wasn't working. I found a pin that was pushed up in one of the plugs on the crossover box. After I pushed it back in, it all worked great. Used to be I had to keep the bass flat because as soon as I turned it up, vocals and highs became muddy and podcasts would become difficult to understand. Now I can dial the bass where I want it, and all the highs are still crystal clear. I also feel the sound envelope me from the rear as well as in front. I'm considering adding a sub, but I don't feel I have to at this point.
New here. I bought an audio kit a month ago for my new m3 Sr+ 2021. I can't remember having seen 2020 or older only. But I now see it on the website. Is it still possible to install it? I seem to read that the problem is on the hardest cabling. Is it technically possible to modify the one that came with the kit? Is there anything else that is not compatible? the quite appear to be inconsistent on those kit, but luckily this forum give plenty of advise on what to do and the owner of the kit post here, so I should be fine
2021 uses different connectors so it'd be a mess of cutting and connecting cables. I wouldn't recommend it if you want to keep your original wiring intact.
Hansshow said that they will have a new connector out in a month to work for the 2021's. Really the big change is that the tweeter connector on the right-side door is missing, and you could just use a positap for that.
Fitted the DIY harness today in 30 minutes. Great improvement but I'd already retrofitted the OEM sub so this was a small improvement but sounds great. I still need to retrofit the rear deck speakers
What’s the best way to get the connector out of the main computer? I have a hansshow harness installed and its super difficult to take out. Way harder than the oem plug.
I just uninstalled my DIY version a few days ago (to upgrade to Version F). It was easy everywhere except that particular plug (going into the ICE). The trick was two-fold. Actually push it in further to help 'release' the clip, then when pulling it outward make sure you push in the little tab to release that clip BEFORE you start pulling the whole plug outward. Worked easy to release as it seemed to get caught and pushing it back in and starting over released it.
Caefully look at the plug on the Hanshow harness and you'll realize where the tab that needs to be pushed actually is. Once you're pushing in the right place the plug comes out smoothly.
I would agree with the first suggestion, press the connector In (toward the driver side of the car) and then press and hold the release tab making sure that it does press in. From there, with the release tab held down, 'wiggle' the connector up and down (toward the roof and floor) as you apply pressure outward(toward the passenger door). All while almost standing on your head. That's the best way to describe without physically seeing what is going on...
I started out trying push towards the middle of the tab, which didn't work. I looked carefully and realized you have to push right on the end of it, which is beyond the shell of the connector on the computer.