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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

Discussion in 'Model 3' started by InfinitySky, Oct 7, 2020.

  1. Rushore

    Rushore Member

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  2. Brendwal

    Brendwal Member

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    If you’re doing the DIY activation harness, there is no DSP, nor any yellow wire to hook up to 12v power. Skip this step. It’s not applicable to the DIY version. I speak from putting it in successfully, then weeks later removing and switching out for Version F.
     
  3. Rushore

    Rushore Member

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    Thank you, much appreciated!
     
  4. j5701

    j5701 Member

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    Talking to someone from Hansshow, they said that the impedance of the system would be changed by adding the DIY harness. I think I believe this more than the website. As for the amp, they assured me multiple times that there would be no damage. I think I trust this about as much as the website description...

    Anyone know if adding resistors in series would help? Is there anyway to make it so the impedance isn't changed?
     
    • Helpful x 1
  5. zugvogel

    zugvogel Member

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    Hi,
    I wanted to add my 2c to the discussion without reading all 64 pages :)
    I just finished the Hansshow Version F install on my '20 SR+ (with existing deck speakers) - the installation is really not hard to do - the whole wiring look is well done, the upgraded subwoofer housing s fantastic and the DSP is plug&play.

    I watched the video on their website a few times and had no trouble at all going through the process without looking at it again. It is pretty straight forward as long as you are methodical.

    As for the result - oh man, this is what I wanted all along. The lack of sound with the standard system (which really sucks) was the main reason I was regretting not getting the Dual Motor - I don't need the range and I don't miss the extra power. But the sound just frustrated me to no end. So with the Version F kit I have to say the sound is worlds better - it actually creates a proper sound stage and bass to boost.

    I think it is definitely worth the $1000, no question.

    Since I did not need the deck speaker, I What's Up'd them and they lowered the price for not adding the speakers and gave me an additional 10% off.

    I'm extremely happy with it and recommend you do the same if you can't stand the half-a&&ed system Tesla put in with disconnected speakers... really???? sigh
     
  6. badiban

    badiban Member

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    Who told you this? I am kind of pissed that they blatantly lie on their website.
     
  7. Swamprat96

    Swamprat96 Member

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    As I read it the Hansshow crossover box which has 4 x 470uf capacitors in series with the tweeters it enables will effectively double the impedance of the speakers at low HZ - see Understanding and Designing Passive and Active Crossovers

    I think (and I might be wrong) that this offers a form of protection for the amp- filtering bass frequencies and increasing the impedance. To back this up - in a quality hifi 3 way speaker a quality crossover does just this- using three 4 ohm speakers but the overall impedance of the three speakers is still just 4 ohms - as the crossover (which is far more sophisticated than just capacitors) achieves this. However a capacitor can be used as a crude crossover - which is what hansshow have attemped here. In short I suspect we have nothing to worry about
     
    • Informative x 1
  8. j5701

    j5701 Member

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    +86 156 2229 6849 was the whats app number, but I found another whats app number for hansshow and started asking about the impedance. They said they would ask their technical department. I'll keep you posted on what they say. If what @Swamprat96 said is true, Hansshow might not being lying!

     
    • Helpful x 1
  9. beachsideev

    beachsideev Member

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    While this is true, what I don't know is how they wire up the original speaker in the new configuration. In your example, all of the speakers are after the crossover network. Is this how hansshow wires up the original speaker and the 2 new ones or is the crossover and 2 extra speakers in parallel with the original speaker? My guess is the latter (there are only 4 caps) and therefore your crossover example wouldn't apply.

    I never bothered tracing out the circuit on the pcb to see how they do it.

    Honestly I'm not worried about it because we are only adding small, high frequency speakers that don't require nearly as much power to drive as a woofer and they went through the extra effort or filtering out low frequencies to these new speakers. If it was the other way around, then I would be more concerned. However I also don't drive around with the volume at 11 either.
     
    • Like x 2
  10. Brendwal

    Brendwal Member

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    I totally couldn’t agree more! Like you, I REALLY wanted the LR premium stereo. I tried the DIY activation version and was underwhelmed. The DIY harness makes minimal improvements (no power, no low end). Once I upgraded to the Version F which includes a decent DSP and a very capable sub (compared to ver.B), it is sooo much better! Fills the space much better, full rich immersive sound with tons of adjustability with the DSP. If you can afford the price, it’s more than worth it without screwing around with the other ones.
     
  11. zugvogel

    zugvogel Member

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    @Brendwal - did you go into the software for the DSP to adjust the settings? I have not gone there yet ... I assume you adjust the segments much like on an equalizer?
     
  12. Brendwal

    Brendwal Member

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    No DSP tweaks yet. I was able to use the Tesla EQ settings only and got it very close to where I like it. Also the remote sub adjuster for handling the sub cutoff/gain. I don’t think I need to adjust DSP yet but I did leave the USB cable easily accessible should you want to in the future.
     
  13. zugvogel

    zugvogel Member

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    ... same here, I am actually quite happy with how it sounds and the subwoofer remote sure is very useful in dialing it in.
     
  14. j5701

    j5701 Member

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    Another hansshow rep just told me that the impedence does change, but that there will be no damage to the amp. Looks like the website is just a lie. Talked with a TeslaOffer technichian who said that they've done extensive testing on their harness and found the amp will be fine. I assume this also means the Hansshow harness falls under the same category.
     
  15. Partsguy100

    Partsguy100 Member

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    I have a 2021 M3 SR+ and would like to activate the 4 speakers up from but don't know enough about whether to go with the Tesla Offer harness or the Hansshow harness? I can't seem to find a thread on the Tesla Offer harness unlike this thread. Outside the DSP which would you choose if you had to start over?

    Would like to add my own powered subwoofer on top of the wiring harness.

    Appreciate the help!!!!
     
  16. badiban

    badiban Member

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    That’s funny, a rep just messaged me and told me that the impedance does not change. I assume it’s safe since the speakers are tiny and don’t have much power, and if they’ve done extensive testing on the same harness without the crossover, then we’re probably fine.
     
    • Funny x 1
  17. badiban

    badiban Member

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    I don’t think the Hansshow harness is compatible with 2021 models. I’d probably go with the TeslaOffer harness, I believe they came out with a version for 2021 models. Maybe others can speak who have done the upgrade on a 2021.
     
  18. Swamprat96

    Swamprat96 Member

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    Like badiban said teslaoffer is your current best bet. I added a sub too- see tonyholdgate.wordpress.com for details of how I did it- not difficult. You can buy the oem Sub from tesla here in Oz so I'd imagine thats the same everywhere
     
    • Informative x 1
  19. Swamprat96

    Swamprat96 Member

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    So Guys- a fellow Aussie has successfully ordered a new OEM sub woofer through Tesla. At $330 AUD (250usd) and adding an alpine amp its still way cheaper than hansshow. However thats no dsp or any of the other goodies but still another solution
     
  20. Tarpan

    Tarpan Member

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    I am still on the fence but the TeslaOffer one looks solid. The connector in the 2021 m3 is gone though so he is recommending a posi-tap. It can be wired without the posi-tap but that connection is coming later and will need to go up through the door so they are recommending the posi-tap.

    I am reluctant to do the posi-tap as its not something I have familiarity with...but would love to see others who have confidence report on it...or maybe find someone who is more comfortable to do it for me!
     

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