Posi-tap is very easy to use. I use T-tap because it's cheaper. Too bad Tesla keeps removing hardware on the car but then again, the 2021 (re-fresh) has a few added like wireless charger and powered trunk, new headlight and heat pump and double pane front windows.
Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)
- Thread starter InfinitySky
- Start date
Posi-tap is very easy to use. I use T-tap because it's cheaper. Too bad Tesla keeps removing hardware on the car but then again, the 2021 (re-fresh) has a few added like wireless charger and powered trunk, new headlight and heat pump and double pane front windows.
Tarpan
Member
What is the damage caused to the wire you are tapping into if you were to abort or remove it later? Looking like it would puncture a hole that would need to be taped/patched up?
My wife would rightfully shoot me if I messed it up.
You won't mess it up. Posi-tap is expensive but it's the easiest and no tool needed to use it. You just need a wire stripper or use a knife or the old fashion way, bite-pull-spit out hehe
It would puncture a hole and just use electrical tape to cover it up.
So, I have a 2019 M3 SR. The sound system is adequate but underwhelming. All I have been looking to do is figure out how I could unlock those speakers just sitting in my car and get that OEM "Premium" sound without having to buy a whole new car. I heard about the Hansshow solutions and figured that my time has come. However, after reading through 65 pages of this thread, the conclusion I've come to is that the approach todd2fst4u takes is the right one. Hopefully he still has some harnesses he's willing to part with.
It seems like the hansshow system with a sub and dsp is probably closest to what the factory premium system would sound like. however If you just wanted a sub, then there are a couple of other, less expensive options.
@strattao - I just did the version F Hansshow kit install myself and like your '19 car my '20 SR+ also still has the shelf speakers.
If the price of Version F is in your budget I can fully recommend this approach.
I am no expert at audio installs so mucking about with modifying harnesses, figuring out what sub/DSP/amp combination works and how to put it all together was not appealing to me.
The Version F kit is easy to install with no car-hifi knowledge required and it does sound terrific.
If the price of Version F is in your budget I can fully recommend this approach.
I am no expert at audio installs so mucking about with modifying harnesses, figuring out what sub/DSP/amp combination works and how to put it all together was not appealing to me.
The Version F kit is easy to install with no car-hifi knowledge required and it does sound terrific.
@zuvogel Thanks for the vote of confidence. Glad to hear that version F is working out for you! For me though I think going with another option gets me what I want: Name-brand quality components, streamlined OEM-style installation when I'm done.
@todd2fst4u already did all the heavy lifting for the amp sub combination. It's just plug and play: Model 3 SR/SR+ premium audio upgrade kit - For me, the price difference between the Hansshow version F and what todd2fst4u has put together is a no-brainer and is what I wanted to do anyways (just plug and play wiring harness and amps that work with an OEM sub).
I bet the version F Hansshow sounds amazing. Not to thread crap, but I just wanted to post that there are other options, in case anyone else is in my shoes.
@todd2fst4u already did all the heavy lifting for the amp sub combination. It's just plug and play: Model 3 SR/SR+ premium audio upgrade kit - For me, the price difference between the Hansshow version F and what todd2fst4u has put together is a no-brainer and is what I wanted to do anyways (just plug and play wiring harness and amps that work with an OEM sub).
I bet the version F Hansshow sounds amazing. Not to thread crap, but I just wanted to post that there are other options, in case anyone else is in my shoes.
it was not hard at all. I have not installed the DYI harness but routing the Version F harness should be quite similar, you still need to pull off the interior trim, that is the hardest part. Then connecting the harness is simple plug&play.
Mounting the sub was easy too, just one nut was missing for one of the studs but I had one lying around.
Thanks! Seems like it's worth the price. Do you know if the DSP powers the inactivated speakers and the subwoofer, or does it just power the subwoofer?
Ry3n
Member
The 8- Channel DSP powers 10 speakers total.
Channel 1-2 power 6 front speakers. The a- pillar speakers, dash side speakers, and the door tweeters
Channel 3-4 power the 4 rear speakers (or the 2 rear door speakers if you install the new rear shelf ones/ late 2020)
Channel 5-6 power the rear shelf speakers (if you install them, or nothing if you use factory rear shelf speakers)
Channel 7-8 power nothing
The sub has its own built in amp.
The oem system powers the door woofers and the dash center channel
Interesting, thanks for sharing. Any potential long-term damage to the OEM amp with this setup?
There is so much great feedback in this thread by everyone and while it makes my head spin it's great info! I'm in a similar position and willing to just give the TeslaOffer harness a try but considering my late SR+ 2020 doesn't have the rear shelf speakers, is it worth (i.e. improvement wise) to just activate the front speakers or do I at least need to get the rear speakers to have any chance of even a slight improvement? Just trying to find a good Jumping off point for my adventure - Thanks!
I have a '21 M3 and just ordered the Tesla Offer harness without the shelf speakers. Others have commented it's tough to hear the imaging from the shelf speakers and its a PIA to remove and reinstall. My goal is to add a powered subwoofer to the passenger side of the trunk and connect the remaining 4 speakers to a seperate amp.
Perhaps in the future, I might replace the paper OEM speakers with better speakers but at this point, just want to improve the sound while I enjoy my new ride.
I've done just that. I put the OEM sub in first then activated the front 4 speakers as I have no rears. Sounds so much better
That sounds like a great way to go, thanks! Just one additional question on that approach (I suspect the answer is hiding somewhere in the thread but I can't seem to find it): Only enabling the front speakers and thus only lowering their impedance rather than the back ones as well if the shelf speakers are present, does that create fade issues with becoming too front heavy?
Not at all. It may affect the back seat passengers but certainly not front seat passengers. There's already a set in the doors and the rear parcel speakers are 4" mid-range so no real impact. I actually hooked up a couple of rears bought with the sub and sat them in position to test. I could only hear them in the back seat
yeah, I only notice the extra rear shelf speakers in the back seat. but back there it is a nice improvement.
I don't have the version F but from the design. A ported subwoofer will perform better. Installing it is fairly simple. Winter last year, I sound deadened/insulate the trunk, rear quarter panel, front and rear wheel well and fender. The floor has a thick foam but I added more butyl. Last week I did all four doors.
Now, that the four doors are sound deadened. My bass from the 10" JL Audio is more pronounced. Listening volume is now 2 clicks lower than before and I can hear everything clearly at 20-25% volume. I don't think it's overloading the ICE amp. I have the version A btw but got rid of the Hansshow sub.
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