I did just the fronts. I didn’t bother installing anything in the rear deck. It’s definitely widens the soundstage and gives a little more high end. However I’m still pretty underwhelmed with the sound and am going all in lol. I thought that was just the Y?
I'd be willing to bet this is short lived. Once they figure out how to optimize the line and save a few bucks with fewer components, it will end up like the 3.
Not without a price hike. MY SR was originally promised to start at $39,990 USD, but now it's starting at $41,990. My guess is this is due to it including the premium interior. When the M3 Midrange was being sold, I believe it was also a $2k premium over the SR+.
that isn't what I was saying. I think that eventually the sr will lose the premium audio. They have a history of decontenting the 3 over time. for example, look at the rear seat heaters. I see no reason for them not to do this with the y as well.
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I did this on my 21 successfully. The driver's side is easy since there is a lot of space. The area you tap on the passenger side has very limited space and the wires are close together, but it's possible. The tapping is very easy, but accessing that area is challenging. You can do it, just have to have the will. lol. I used a hair clip and pulled the wire so they are not bunched together and that gave me just enough space.
For those that have the version B and want more bass, I finally had time to install my NVX LOC today. The subwoofer is now on par with version E. It's low cost for the equipment at $69 so it should be a no brainer if you want more out of the subwoofer. Audio Control's LOC works too but it costs a bit more. Now I have a dash remote and cleaner bass connected via RCA's. The LOC uses little to no power as well.
Even with their DSP versions they aren’t running the subwoofer through the DSP. Honestly, you need to process the input signal better to get the best bass response in this car. I’ve notice my 10” sub without my DSP just doesn’t have any low end dig.
Absolutely! Cleaning up the input signal makes a huge difference to any system but certainly in the HS kits from A to F because as @amorris said above the subwoofer is not going through the DSP and as such needs some help.
@kiNGng3, $69 to improve your system is not bad...good work. That being said, one would expect the kit to work properly when you buy the entire thing as a complete kit. I wonder if the lack-luster bass is due to the need to process the signal via DSP or simply just the original setup has inadequate voltage being sent to the sub? An LOC like the one you bought has a significant 9.5 v output which is what I suspect made the big difference.
Correct sir. Bass roll off from a OEM system is very common in all car manufacturers. A simple solution is to run the source signal into a LOC to push out more voltage. Since the subwoofer is self amplified and I assume the subwoofer itself can handle more output, it was a no brainer piece of equipment to add on. It would've been nice to have the woofer input go into the DSP as the rear of the DSP has a subwoofer output. Again this is isolated to the version B kit. Honestly, version B for $350 and LOC for $69 for a total of $419 is pretty good bang for buck improvement to the stock system. I mean I won't count my countless hours beta testing and correcting the kit for them.
Hi guys, I been following this tread for a while and finally decided it was time for an upgrade. I ordered the version C package which comes with the OEM style subwoofer, rear speakers, and harness. I didn’t go for the DSP thing because felt it was out of my skill set. I got the package in the mail today but it arrived with some cone shaped speakers that am not sure they will fit in the rear shelf area. Can anyone tell me if I received the wrong speakers? I also got some remote thing that I feel was shipped to me by mistake. If anyone can provide some insight, it would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys.
god those are hideous! do they actually expect you to mount those to the rear shelf? has anyone actually done this?
I think the reomte is to control the settings on the sub gain, lpf and boost, imight be wrong hard to tell from the picture but that is what it sounds like, and the little speaker are for cars that dont come with the shelf speakers from factory, yes they will fit but depending on when your car was made, you will have to cut holes in the rear shelf not really hard to do, anyone can do it, it does involve taking out the rear shelf, there is a video around page 40 not sure the exact page of someone cutting the holes, you should go check it out, but one thing i noticed the previous ones they used to send hat the flat part at the tip of the cone so they glued on vertically, those seem like they lay horizontally almost like they just want you to glue them to the top of the shelf with double sided tape