Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[Kali_3]

I figured some of you might be interested in seeing what the actual RTA curve of the stock SR+ audio system is. All measurements were done with a calibrated microphone, audio tool app (loaded up with the calibration file), immersive sound OFF, the mic at roughly where the driver's head would be, fader in the center, and a high quality pink noise played via USB. First and foremost, a dead flat RTA is not what you are after or looking for when it comes to listening to music. Humans don't hear all frequencies equally an almost nobody would like the sound of a flat frequency response.

I'll use the Harman International target curve for reference as it's been around for quite some time and many swear by it.View attachment 634754

And here is the SR+ with all bands of the EQ set to 0 (flat).
View attachment 634755

As you can see this actually pretty decent in most places. It needs a sub to fill in up to about 60zh, then there is slight decrease from 60-125 (this is actually a good thing), it's relatively flat out to about 2k (also good), and then a slight drop in output out to about 16K where it then falls off. Setting the EQ to +4, +2, 0, -1, -2.5 resulted in the best curve for me. The reduce treble is the best compromise to tame that peak around 13K.

Ok, and now for my pet peeve. For the life of me I don't know why people immediately set their EQ's to a smiley face for virtually everything they own. Jump in most people's cars and chances are both bass and treble are pegged at their highest values. So here is the SR+ with a smiley face EQ setting (+8, +4, 0, +4, +8): The rise from 1k up is the equivalent to nails on a chalkboard. The only person I can imagine this sounding good to is someone who has been playing live shows for decades with zero hearing protection. For anyone else this will produce ear fatigue pretty quickly.
View attachment 634759



So, how to this relate to the Hansshow audio upgrade. Well, after performing these measurements I don't have any real desire to add any sound from any of the additional unconnected speakers (only 4 for me as mine is a '21). The speaker high up on the A pillar is too close to either the driver or passenger's head and will pull the the soundstage back and bias it towards either listener. The lower A pillar location is actually pretty good but it's not as if the system needs any additional upper mid-range or treble. I'm sure someone will say how great the full premium system sounds with all the speakers playing, but there's a lot more going on than what any of these audio upgrade jumper cables are doing. A sub, on the other hand, is definitely in order.

This is good stuff. Thanks for posting. It's funny my EQ is kinda similar to yours. Mine is at +1, +0.5, -0.5, -1, -2. I have the Kit A with 10" JL Audio sub. I also did an intensive sound dampening of the entire car. I would love to see the RTA curve on mine. Too bad, I sold my calibrated mic.

I had the base sound system for a year. It was good, the sound stage is actually good. After installing the hansshow kit. It sounded even better. I'll try to explain the difference between the two. Before the sound is coming from the low portion of the windshield. This is where the 3 dash speakers are located. It's pretty much sitting below the windshield. Now that the door and A-pillar speakers are working. The sound is now coming from the entire area of the windshield. It has more dimension than before. It didn't pull the sound stage but made it more fuller. I wouldn't go back to the base audio.

 

[amorris]

I’ll be doing some RTA posts once I get my new system all up and running. Got my Helix DSP and sub amp in, so now it’s time to wire it all up and play. Oh and build a ported box for my 10.

you can find my progress here:

My Model 3 Audio SQ Build Log (Helix, Audiofrog, HAT)

 

[moa999]

Thanks for posting. It's funny my EQ is kinda similar to yours. Mine is at +1, +0.5, -0.5, -1, -2. I h

Mines similar.
Also have the centre of music set back to halfway between the centre and rear seats which I think gives a better balance given the lack of rears

 

[beachsideev]

thank you for testing the factory system! I was hoping someone had the tools to do this properly and post the results.

I do agree that turning on the a pillar speakers overly accentuate the highs so I also adjust the fader to the rear a bit to tone that down. my ideal setting was with the solid circle just touching the bottom of the center circle. I'll also try your eq settings to see how that sounds.

thanks again!

 

[webwarmiller]

thank you for testing the factory system! I was hoping someone had the tools to do this properly and post the results.

I do agree that turning on the a pillar speakers overly accentuate the highs so I also adjust the fader to the rear a bit to tone that down. my ideal setting was with the solid circle just touching the bottom of the center circle. I'll also try your eq settings to see how that sounds.

thanks again!

I don't think trying my EQ settings would work for you as you've installed the DIY upgrade harness. Once you've made such a change you can throw my EQ settings in the trash.

 

[amorris]

This is good stuff. Thanks for posting. It's funny my EQ is kinda similar to yours. Mine is at +1, +0.5, -0.5, -1, -2. I have the Kit A with 10" JL Audio sub. I also did an intensive sound dampening of the entire car. I would love to see the RTA curve on mine. Too bad, I sold my calibrated mic.

I had the base sound system for a year. It was good, the sound stage is actually good. After installing the hansshow kit. It sounded even better. I'll try to explain the difference between the two. Before the sound is coming from the low portion of the windshield. This is where the 3 dash speakers are located. It's pretty much sitting below the windshield. Now that the door and A-pillar speakers are working. The sound is now coming from the entire area of the windshield. It has more dimension than before. It didn't pull the sound stage but made it more fuller. I wouldn't go back to the base audio.

What did you do for sound dampening? Inside the door and between the door and panel? Any closed cell foam?

 

[davewill]

This all fits fairly well with my experience both before and after installing my DIY harness. The system sounded OK, but lacking in bass. Any attempt to use the EQ to increase bass would make the highs and vocals hopelessly muddy. My assumption was that adding more bass overwhelmed the speakers, killing the reproduction of the higher freqs. So I just left the EQ flat as it represented the best compromise I could get. I'm sure that simply adding a sub to the base system would do a lot to improve that situation.

That said, adding the DIY harness also helped that a bunch. With the crossover (however primitive) keeping the highs out of the door woofers, they do a better job on the bass freqs, and I can push the bass up without affecting the vocals and highs at all now. The system still lacks in the very lowest freqs, and doesn't have the punch that a sub would add, and I may add one for that reason, but the system overall sounds much, much better. I'd love to see someone do the same measurements on some of the various upgrades as I believe they help more than @webwarmiller is assuming.

 

[todd2fst4u]

With the crossover (however primitive) keeping the highs out of the door woofers, they do a better job on the bass freqs, and I can push the bass up without affecting the vocals and highs at all now.

The crossover has no effect on the existing speakers. It only filters high frequencies from the additional speakers.

 

[Partsguy100]

I was thinking of starting a new thread to showcase audio upgrades users have made to their M3.

I've ordered the Tesla offer harness and asking around to see what products others have used to 'improve' the sound. This Hanshaw thread stretches all the way back to the 'pioneers' to the current info, including frequency response curves, speaker choices etc. Very overwhelming for new owners to follow.

 

[undefined_err]

Hello,

I have a 2019 April SR+

Version F here. Did the install on my own.
they messed up my shipping, forgot about me or something. It took 3 weeks to receive my order.

Here to report that everything works out of the box. No issues with Fade and Balance like some people
are reporting. I didn't tinker with the dsp. but the trebel was really sharp and hurts my ears.

some install notes:

Careful with the DC/OFF/ACC switch on the DSP.. make sure it stays on DC.
I guess I accidently flipped it, and the sub wasn't working.

My driver side tweeter plug already had something plugged in. I was expecting an empty plug.
I had to unplug it. The passenger side was empty as expected.

I did not disconnect the 12V+ battery when installing the kit.
be careful when undoing the 12V+ battery nut if you are using a wrench that is not insulated.
Do not touch the chassis while undoing the nut. =)

the nav lady and the chimes seem louder than usual. Joe Mode helps.

the kit came with rear speakers, I didn't not use them. My car already had rear speakers.
I plugged them in and it worked.

I notice some strange things, when you get in the car, it takes around 5 seconds for the rear to come on.
it seems like the front speakers are connected to the stock amp, and the rear is connected to the DSP.
when the subwoofer powers off, you hear a big thump.

on one drive, the rear was cutting out. not sure how this is possible if i'm directly connected to battery.
My SOC was around 13%. I will monitor this.

overall, i'm very satisfied with the upgrade.

 

[undefined_err]

Forgot to mention.
While you have everything ripped apart. It's a good time to replace your cabin air filter.

 

[HitUpOlas]

Hello,

I have a 2019 April SR+

Version F here. Did the install on my own.
they messed up my shipping, forgot about me or something. It took 3 weeks to receive my order.

Here to report that everything works out of the box. No issues with Fade and Balance like some people
are reporting. I didn't tinker with the dsp. but the trebel was really sharp and hurts my ears.

some install notes:

Careful with the DC/OFF/ACC switch on the DSP.. make sure it stays on DC.
I guess I accidently flipped it, and the sub wasn't working.

My driver side tweeter plug already had something plugged in. I was expecting an empty plug.
I had to unplug it. The passenger side was empty as expected.

I did not disconnect the 12V+ battery when installing the kit.
be careful when undoing the 12V+ battery nut if you are using a wrench that is not insulated.
Do not touch the chassis while undoing the nut. =)

the nav lady and the chimes seem louder than usual. Joe Mode helps.

the kit came with rear speakers, I didn't not use them. My car already had rear speakers.
I plugged them in and it worked.

I notice some strange things, when you get in the car, it takes around 5 seconds for the rear to come on.
it seems like the front speakers are connected to the stock amp, and the rear is connected to the DSP.
when the subwoofer powers off, you hear a big thump.

on one drive, the rear was cutting out. not sure how this is possible if i'm directly connected to battery.
My SOC was around 13%. I will monitor this.

overall, i'm very satisfied with the upgrade.

Yes, Joe mode makes the volume perfect for your turn signals and chimes.

I did adjust the treble on the factory EQ to negatives as I’m not a big fan of high trebles.

There is maybe a 1-2 seconds delay when getting in from a full power shutdown. I have my car set to prep for my commute every morning and set the temperature before I start walking back to it everyday by doing that there is no delay as the car is already powered. I’m also usually selecting a station on Amazon music to listen to as well.

I have no pop at all with the subwoofer. Check that your rca cable connectors aren’t touching any metal and that you are seated all the way on the subwoofer connector as mine was pretty hard to engage fully.

 

[beachsideev]

The plug on the driver's side is normal. Some of the installation videos mention it. I think the car sounds (nav, text reading, directionals, etc) use that speaker.

 

[Kali_3]

Mines similar.
Also have the centre of music set back to halfway between the centre and rear seats which I think gives a better balance given the lack of rears

I've also did the fader before but set it back to center. I don't need to hear the rear speakers for music (it's a must for watching movies). Tesla did a good job tweaking the sound stage which is like sitting up front in a concert. Sounds coming up front, that's the best sound stage.

I've re-tweaked my EQ to +2, +1, 0, -1.5, - 2.5. I'm using Sound Assistant app on my phone and had a custom EQ but set it back to flat curve (normal). Sound assistant works well for headphones but not so well in the car.

 

[kiNGng3]

thank you for testing the factory system! I was hoping someone had the tools to do this properly and post the results.

I do agree that turning on the a pillar speakers overly accentuate the highs so I also adjust the fader to the rear a bit to tone that down. my ideal setting was with the solid circle just touching the bottom of the center circle. I'll also try your eq settings to see how that sounds.

thanks again!

I used the DSP to decrease the dB's going to the A pillar and mirror speakers so it wouldn't overpower the center channel

 

[MexiCanuck]

Has anyone had success in two-way communication with Hansshow recently?

I have difficulties with my Version F. I have been emailing Cici and getting no response for a week. I sent a p.m. to William here and have had no response.

I know that lunar new year is coming up and I figure the likelihood of hearing from Hansshow during that time might diminish.

 

[j5701]

Has anyone had success in two-way communication with Hansshow recently?

I have difficulties with my Version F. I have been emailing Cici and getting no response for a week. I sent a p.m. to William here and have had no response.

I know that lunar new year is coming up and I figure the likelihood of hearing from Hansshow during that time might diminish.

I’ve found they’re really responsive on whatsapp. If you use that i’d highly recommend it.

 

[mobits]

For someone as ADD as myself, can someone point me to the page on this thread (or another thread?) where folks are discussing simply adding a sub as the only audio enhancement to their SR+?. What brands are best, is it DIY, and what are anticipated costs?

My M3 was manufactured in 9/2020.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Swamprat96]

For someone as ADD as myself, can someone point me to the page on this thread (or another thread?) where folks are discussing simply adding a sub as the only audio enhancement to their SR+?. What brands are best, is it DIY, and what are anticipated costs?

My M3 was manufactured in 9/2020.

Thanks in advance!

I detailed how I added a sub here- tonyholdgate.wordpress.com. In australia we can order the OEM sub for $330 AUD- about $250 USD so if you can get one of those its a lot less hassle fitting it. The woofer wiring up front is the same for LHD and RHD so you should be able to use my guide. As the amp I used is relatively low power I've had zero issues. Don't buy the original rear OEM amp- you can't use it as its software controlled.
Of course there are others here who have added bigger subs , dsps and bigger amps- but be warned- draw too much power without adding some kind of inrush current limiting and you may experience software issues.

There is no magic page which summarises all the different approaches

 

[badiban]

Has anyone had success in two-way communication with Hansshow recently?

I have difficulties with my Version F. I have been emailing Cici and getting no response for a week. I sent a p.m. to William here and have had no response.

I know that lunar new year is coming up and I figure the likelihood of hearing from Hansshow during that time might diminish.

What kind of issues are you having?