Most of us here are DIY. We installed the kit or the sub. A few had a shop installed it for them. Not sure what type of music you listen to, if you need the trunk space, sub trunk space. So many choices. Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+) Post #976
yeah, I realize that. However I found an interesting box while digging through old stuff at work. a rta with calibrated mic! I'm going to bring it home this weekend and try it out and post my results.
Hello everyone! I have skimmed nearly every page of this forum and am having trouble trying to figure out if I need the DSP or not? I have a 11/2019 SR+, with the rear speakers installed. I definitely want to do this upgrade, including a sub. but I am trying to figure out is I should go with Version A (DIY + sub) or Version E (DIY + Sub + DSP + Rear speakers). I do not need the rear speakers of course, but I am trying to decide if the DSP is worth the $300 extra expense!? Can I run the all the speakers without the DSP? (I don't keep my volume high) Would it be hard to add a DSP later? Secondly, It seems there are two different pages that the kits can be orderd from..... any idea why this is? Model 3 Premium Audio Upgrade(suit for 2017-2020) | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow Which has an option to remove the rears from the package, but is not directly linked from anywhere else (except this forum) I am inclined to use his page, as I do not need rears, (but it only lets them be removed from ver A, not ver E) Model 3 SR Premium Audio Upgrade|hansshow autopart factory this one doesn't let you remove the rears, but is the official link from the hansshow home page. Thanks everyone! this forum has been incredibly helpful!
Do you need a DSP? No, but it's good to have because it's a DSP amp which amplifies the additional speakers being activated and thus not having more impedance on the stock ICE amp and gives control over the newly activated speakers in terms of adjustments. Therefore you can tune the audio to your liking for those speakers. The first link is no longer in use and I suppose they will no longer sell kits without the rear speakers included. It is referenced here because it was in use at the time.
I have the Version A and I would go with Version E because of the newer sub. The Version A sub is underwhelming. Got rid of it quickly and installed my own sub and amp. DSP is powerful tool if you know how to use it. Version A doesn't have the wiring for a DSP. It's not upgradeable if you wanted to add the DSP down the line. Many of the "new version" of the E owners are very happy. If would go with that. $300 is no brainer for a DSP and better sub. The other site is an older one. I got my kit from their old page where there was an option not to include the rear speakers which I believe to be $80 less (if I remember correctly). I paid less $296 for my Version A without rear-speakers and also used a discount code. Go with Ver. E and you'll be happy. I'm pondering of adding a DSP on mine but I think I'll just keep it as is. I don't want to put the extra $$ and effort (installing) and get 10-15% sound improvement from my current set up.
Thanks kiNGng and Kali for the info! this makes my decision much more clear! Kali, One additional question, the Ver E and A appear to be the same. Are you referring to Ver F when you said "Many of the "new version" of the E owners are very happy. If would go with that. $300 is no brainer for a DSP and better sub."
My bad I meant to say F. Kit E has the same subwoofer as Kit A. It was underwhelming for me. I don't know your music taste. Maybe it will be adequate for you. There was another recent post here. He used LOC and it seems like it made the sub perform better.
I’m trying to be respectful of Hansshow by giving them full opportunity to resolve the problem before discussing it publicly. I’m hoping to be able to say that I had a problem that they resolved and provide a bit of a product and service review.
Yes my addition of an LOC took the limits off the input signal and allowed full bass signal to the subwoofer. It corrected the bass roll off from the stock amplifier.
There have been several different solutions people have taken. A couple of folks have tried the Rockford Fosgate 8 and 10" self powered subs and liked it. I've seen a few others use the JL Microsub+ self powered sub too. Personally I didn't like the boomy sound of the RF 10. If you did a self-powered sub, I'd highly recommend a line-out converter to get more control of the signal to help with the factory bass roll-off. Honestly, you'll probably drop about $60+ in just wiring. Then you have to factor in a sub, amp, and enclosure. A self powered sub is going to be 250-600+ depending on brand. If you want a really slick solution, also look at the NVX 10" sub, it has an AMP, line out converter, wiring, etc, but it's around $800. My personal solution is in progress, but I'm doing a single 10" Hybrid Audio Clarus Sub ($450), a Helix M one sub amp ($400), and a Helix V Eight MK2 DSP to control the whole show ($1300). My system is probably overkill for just adding bass though... It's really a higher end build that isn't quite as high end as the really cool stuff on these forums. The M one amp has tons of control, so that and a sub/box would make a pretty sweet $800 setup too. Helix stuff is top notch and highly efficient.
So is there anyone/anywhere in Ventura/LA area that does the install for the DIY kit? I changed the air filter in my car but idk If I want to attempt this lol
Hi @kiNGng3! May I ask where you tap your 12V power source and L/R speaker inputs from to connect to your XLCA2? I have the SR+ and purchased the NVX subwoofer kit but unsure where to tap the wires from. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I have an auto trunk kit and the version B kit so I have VC Right and Penthouse power going to the trunk already. So I tapped either of them for the XLCA2. I originally tapped the trunk kit which is 12V VC Right but I switched it to penthouse since my subwoofer was already powering from that. I believe your 4 gauge kit requires you to tap penthouse though. The source I used was from the version B harness which already feeds the woofer wires (blue and purple) into the subwoofer (cut the subwoofer connector). So instead of going directly into the subwoofer first I inputted in the LOC then RCA'd into the subwoofer. Same with the REM. For you without the harness with these already, you can tap your rears but it's not the lowest frequency but the easiest. Someone said Tesla Offer modded their own harness for this purpose. Should ask Raymond at Tesla Offer. He's an awesome guy!
If you can change the air filter, you can install the diy kit. It just involves removing a few more panels and unplugging and plugging connectors. If you don't have the factory rear shelf speakers and you don't want to add them, the install is even easier. Installing rear speakers in a car that didn't come with them looks to be pretty involved. Honestly for me, pulling the panels off was the hardest/most nerve wracking part of the install. But since you have already done this you know the process and what to expect.