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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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Hello there,
Have you been able to install the kit? If yea,
Could you let us know what your feedback is?
Thanks
I installed their kit for a 2020 Model 3 SR+ as well, and the results on my 2021 SR+ were on par.


I would recommend plugging everything in first before running your wires through the center console to test the audio first.

The only difference from the pre-2021 update is the missing front signal plugs (previously a more square shaped plug, and has been replaced by a red and black wire for each side of the vehicle. The instructions specify which wires to plug into. They share the same existing wire and for driver’s side, you match the black with black wire, and red with purple wire. For the passenger side, you just have to match the red with red wire, and black with white wire. Once everything was tested, I ran the wires under the carpet along the dip in the floor. There is enough of a gap beneath the carpet to not feel the wires through the carpet.

As expected, the front tweeters and mids were activated and produces audio that feels more immersive than the speakers closer to the windshield and in the door. The rear deck is missing speakers, although I connected the harness to it so the wiring was complete and neater. (No adverse effects as a result) I tested the left to right channels in the audio settings and everything was correctly functioning.

Shipping took about three weeks to reach me in Hawaii. It did travel to the continental US before heading back to Hawaii.
 

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I had the Version F installed this week. I'm not an audiophile by any means but even I could not stand the original Tesla non-Premium setup, and of course now the sound is definitely significantly improved (as it should be, considering the cost of the upgrade!).

My question to anyone else with Version F: Where are you supposed to put the remote and the USB cable? Just hanging out (seems really unfinished) or do you just tuck them in somewhere? I don't think I will be fiddling with either i.e., probably just set it and forget it.
 
Hey @badiban - did you have trouble getting the big plug it of the computer when you swapped cables for the F kit? Got someone struggling here- is there a secret?

That part was tough. I have big hands so it was tough to squeeze into that area to remove the old DIY cables. What I did was I carefully wedged a small flathead screwdriver so that I can press the latch with it. Then, with the other hand, once you're able to firmly press on the latch with the screwdriver, you should be able to pull the cable out. It's hard, but possible.
 
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Thanks for the response. What I know about the Hansshow audio products is based on what members post as problems they've experienced and are still experiencing. Also based on reviews and videos of actual experiences by purchasers.

The discontinued 10" because it broke easily during shipping tells me either the product was designed with a weak point or not enough care was taken for packaging. Lots of companies are able to ship more fragile items without them consistently breaking in transit. The replacement 5x8 was represented as better than the 10" yet it is already discontinued and replaced with an 8" round in a small rectangular box. Was there a problem with the 5x8 and why it was discontinued in such a short time-frame?

I'm glad to see the balance issue fixed. IMHO this should have been tested and working before even going to market. This issue although fixable nevertheless causes problems for buyers in extra wasted time installing and trying to figure out if they've done something incorrectly and worse for those that are paying for an installer's time, this is an extra cost because it wasn't tested before shipping.

Since you've brought up the power trunk that's a perfect example. This was shipped with a CANBUS connector that had no functionality. Even after the first firmware revision, it still didn't work. I know this as I helped install one and wasted quite a bit of time diagnosing why the CANBUS feature did not work. I had thought it was wiring or install but then found that it was because Hansshow didn't even write the proper firmware for this safety feature to work. Has this been fixed now?

At the end of the day, my view is that products should be tested thoroughly before being sold. If that was done, this whole thread would be people just glowing about how much they like the system rather than people sharing problems.

This audio upgrade does look like a good option to improve the SR+ system but I can not recommend it to a friend until all the problems are worked out mentioned by members above. My friend who's planning to buy an upgrade wants me to help install and I certainly don't want to spend a bunch of time diagnosing and correcting design problems until that's all fixed and then I'd be happy to recommend it and help install it.
Feel exactly the same way. Coming from a BMW this seems like the wild west of audio. Hansshow have no real competition that the problem. these seems like a huge business opportunity!
 
I installed their kit for a 2020 Model 3 SR+ as well, and the results on my 2021 SR+ were on par.


I would recommend plugging everything in first before running your wires through the center console to test the audio first.

The only difference from the pre-2021 update is the missing front signal plugs (previously a more square shaped plug, and has been replaced by a red and black wire for each side of the vehicle. The instructions specify which wires to plug into. They share the same existing wire and for driver’s side, you match the black with black wire, and red with purple wire. For the passenger side, you just have to match the red with red wire, and black with white wire. Once everything was tested, I ran the wires under the carpet along the dip in the floor. There is enough of a gap beneath the carpet to not feel the wires through the carpet.

As expected, the front tweeters and mids were activated and produces audio that feels more immersive than the speakers closer to the windshield and in the door. The rear deck is missing speakers, although I connected the harness to it so the wiring was complete and neater. (No adverse effects as a result) I tested the left to right channels in the audio settings and everything was correctly functioning.

Shipping took about three weeks to reach me in Hawaii. It did travel to the continental US before heading back to Hawaii.
So the DSP controls all the speakers in the car not just the 6 speakers it actives?
 
I’m assuming so? I’m by no means knowledgeable in car audio though.
When you plugged in all the connectors did you tap into all 14 speakers plus the ICE connector? I have been told by Hansshow that it does but their staff do not seem to have great product knowledge. There is a huge difference in my mind between controlling all the speakers an just the front 6.
 
I'm hoping to get some help here. I made my own thread, but didn't get a response. I messaged Todd, but he wasn't helpful.

I purchased Todd's cable to activate the 4 front speakers in my 21 SR+. The setup includes the cable, Alpine KTP-445U, Rockford 250x1, Focal IU 200, and OEM box with JL Audio 8W3. All the equipment is brand new.

This was working perfectly for 4 months, but the last month I have been having an issue with the passenger door and pillar tweeter. It constantly makes a hiss/static/white noise sound. It does not turn off even though there is no music connected or even playing. It's really annoying and is driving my wife crazy.

The weird issue is that it only happens during the noon times 12-6pm ish. Early morning and late nights, no sound comes out.

The ground wire is rock solid connected. I checked all the cables, and they are connected as well. The wire that runs from the passenger to the driver's side does not cross any wires from Tesla.

I would love some help with what I can look at to resolve this issue.

Thank you!
 
I was going to buy this system. I have found Todd to be responsive. Maybe is out of town?
Here's my take. Not sure where the Alpine amp is in your car. It should power off if you are not playing music. I would expose it and check to see if the power light goes off when the stereo is switched off. If the the speakers that are hissing must be getting power from somewhere. I would start with the amp. Not sure where Todd's harness gets the signal for that amp? I would guess from one of the other front speakers. Those Alpine amps are pretty reliable but there could be a fault. Report back.
 
I was going to buy this system. I have found Todd to be responsive. Maybe is out of town?
Here's my take. Not sure where the Alpine amp is in your car. It should power off if you are not playing music. I would expose it and check to see if the power light goes off when the stereo is switched off. If the the speakers that are hissing must be getting power from somewhere. I would start with the amp. Not sure where Todd's harness gets the signal for that amp? I would guess from one of the other front speakers. Those Alpine amps are pretty reliable but there could be a fault. Report back.

Todd has always been responsive until I asked for more hints on what to check next. Then he stopped responding which I believe there was nothing else he could troubleshoot.

There is no power button on the Alpine amp. To clarify, the car is ON but the audio is completely turned off, but the hiss sound still is present.

I have completed torn my car apart to make sure that the activation cable is not crossing any other lines, rebooted the car, and hiss is still there. I have tried using the OEM tweeter, but hiss is still present.

I love the system, but this cable is almost unusable if you constantly hear the hiss.

I would love to hear some other things I can do or check. Thank you forums!
 
How many wires go into the amp? Try disconnecting the power wire and see if that stops it. Then try disconnecting the signal input wires. You need to figure where the hiss is generated. It is not rocket science.

With Todd's cable, he uses the Alpine amp to power the front tweeters. He mentioned that it's ran in parallel. There are 2 plugs from the activation cable that Todd designed to go directly into the amp. It's just plug and play. I have unplugged and plugged them back in already, but issue still persists.

I have no idea what to look at. I bought this cable because it was a simple plug and play setup.

Last thing I have discovered which is really strange, is that when the tweeters are not making the sound, I can press onto the tweeter on the A pillar and it will produce the hiss.

Appreciate the response though.
 
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