Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[Audio27]

So the noise persists with the speaker feed cable unplugged? If so unplug the amp (the power cord or remove the ground) and see if the noise is still there.

The noise is not present when the the Alpine amp is unplugged. The amp is powering the tweeters.

 

[GregoryK]

The noise is not present when the the Alpine amp is unplugged. The amp is powering the tweeters.

The amp has a bunch of wires go into it. Ground and Power for starters. Then it has the signal - I would believe that it is from one of the speakers. Can you disconnect those wires? If there is still noise with those disconnected then the amp is causing the problem. That connection from the source could have a noise in it and the amp is just passing it through to the speakers. You need to do some trouble shooting. Right?

 

[Audio27]

The amp has a bunch of wires go into it. Ground and Power for starters. Then it has the signal - I would believe that it is from one of the speakers. Can you disconnect those wires? If there is still noise with those disconnected then the amp is causing the problem. That connection from the source could have a noise in it and the amp is just passing it through to the speakers. You need to do some trouble shooting. Right?

Thank you for the response. I do appreciate it.

The amp has all those connections, however it's all in one plug customized into the Todd's harness. There's no way to disconnect specific wires from the plug without cutting the wire.

 

[GregoryK]

I kinda figured that. The pins in the connectors can be pulled. Either that or cut the wires and reconnect then. Can you soldier and use shrink wrap?

 

[todd2fst4u]

I'm hoping to get some help here. I made my own thread, but didn't get a response. I messaged Todd, but he wasn't helpful.

I purchased Todd's cable to activate the 4 front speakers in my 21 SR+. The setup includes the cable, Alpine KTP-445U, Rockford 250x1, Focal IU 200, and OEM box with JL Audio 8W3. All the equipment is brand new.

This was working perfectly for 4 months, but the last month I have been having an issue with the passenger door and pillar tweeter. It constantly makes a hiss/static/white noise sound. It does not turn off even though there is no music connected or even playing. It's really annoying and is driving my wife crazy.

The weird issue is that it only happens during the noon times 12-6pm ish. Early morning and late nights, no sound comes out.

The ground wire is rock solid connected. I checked all the cables, and they are connected as well. The wire that runs from the passenger to the driver's side does not cross any wires from Tesla.

I would love some help with what I can look at to resolve this issue.

Thank you!

To be fair, I offered you troubleshooting advice to the best of my ability. I’m sorry that advice wasn’t helpful for you.
You’re asking me to remotely troubleshoot shoot an intermittent issue that only you have experienced and your setup differs from every other one I have worked with.

 

[Audio27]

To be fair, I offered you troubleshooting advice to the best of my ability. I’m sorry that advice wasn’t helpful for you.
You’re asking me to remotely troubleshoot shoot an intermittent issue that only you have experienced and your setup differs from every other one I have worked with.

I do appreciate the assistance you have provided. I replied to your PM and will take the offer of a replacement if the steps I tried yesterday works or not.

 

[bo3bdar]

With Todd's cable, he uses the Alpine amp to power the front tweeters. He mentioned that it's ran in parallel. There are 2 plugs from the activation cable that Todd designed to go directly into the amp. It's just plug and play. I have unplugged and plugged them back in already, but issue still persists.

I have no idea what to look at. I bought this cable because it was a simple plug and play setup.

Last thing I have discovered which is really strange, is that when the tweeters are not making the sound, I can press onto the tweeter on the A pillar and it will produce the hiss.

Appreciate the response though.

You already worked out what the problem is, you just haven't realized it yet. For problems like this, where it's not really the cable or the setup, sometimes you just have to debug/troubleshoot stuff that only happens on your system. For troubleshooting, you have to methodically work your way backward through a system, to find what part introduces the fault. You can do scattershot/random tests, or just randomly replace components for fun, but that's not a good strategy because you may or may not randomly hit upon what the problem is.


You noted that it only happens during part of the day, and you also note here that it happens if you press on the tweeter. That's the answer right there. It's pressure sensitive. And it's the tweeter itself.

During the time of day, the car is presumably in the sun, and as it heats up, puts that pressure on the tweeter in the same way. As debugging, you could test the theory by parking the car in shade during that time and see if it still happens.

You've narrowed it down to the tweeter itself. It doesn't have anything to do with todd's cable or your other components it's a Tesla fault, and something people could hit even with the premium version where these are enabled. Tesla is not likely to fix this, because it's not the premium interior and thus not expected to work.

You can get hiss like this when a cable is pinched. No way to really know without disassembling the tweeter itself. When you say tweeter- the ones by the mirror are the actual tweeters, the round ones up top are high-mid range imaging speakers. If it's the one by the mirror, those are pretty easy to take apart for an inspection. The top speakers are quite a lot harder to get at.

 

[bo3bdar]

The front dash speakers are 3 ohm. You are connecting 2 more speakers in parallel (A-pillar and mirror) that are 4 ohm each. 1.2 ohm load

The rear door speakers are 3 ohm and you connect 1 speaker in parallel (rear dash) that is also 3 ohm. 1.5 ohm load

I'm not sure how these harnesses are wired, but with 4 speakers there is an obvious solution that would be best in terms of avoiding amp overload. This is a series/parallel circuit that would make the amp see 3.5 ohms. This would be for one side, like Left, with a duplicate for Right. This setup wouldn't work for those of us with missing Rear deck speakers.

Given this is Hannshow, I have no idea if they actually properly specify or even consider this sort of thing. If someone tested the cable itself it would be interesting to know the circuit diagram. Given that they have 4 capacitors, this layout is not likely.

 

[Audio27]

You already worked out what the problem is, you just haven't realized it yet. For problems like this, where it's not really the cable or the setup, sometimes you just have to debug/troubleshoot stuff that only happens on your system. For troubleshooting, you have to methodically work your way backward through a system, to find what part introduces the fault. You can do scattershot/random tests, or just randomly replace components for fun, but that's not a good strategy because you may or may not randomly hit upon what the problem is.


You noted that it only happens during part of the day, and you also note here that it happens if you press on the tweeter. That's the answer right there. It's pressure sensitive. And it's the tweeter itself.

During the time of day, the car is presumably in the sun, and as it heats up, puts that pressure on the tweeter in the same way. As debugging, you could test the theory by parking the car in shade during that time and see if it still happens.

You've narrowed it down to the tweeter itself. It doesn't have anything to do with todd's cable or your other components it's a Tesla fault, and something people could hit even with the premium version where these are enabled. Tesla is not likely to fix this, because it's not the premium interior and thus not expected to work.

You can get hiss like this when a cable is pinched. No way to really know without disassembling the tweeter itself. When you say tweeter- the ones by the mirror are the actual tweeters, the round ones up top are high-mid range imaging speakers. If it's the one by the mirror, those are pretty easy to take apart for an inspection. The top speakers are quite a lot harder to get at.

Thanks a lot for that detailed explanation.

Todd was nice enough to send me a replacement cable while I returned the one I originally had.

I installed the new cable and the issue is still present.

I should clarify myself a bit.

1. I noticed that the issue is only present during the day.

2 Last week, while troubleshooting, I unplugged the Alpine amp that powers the tweeters and waited about 30 minutes. I rebooted the car and noticed that the hiss was gone, however I started to tap the top high-mid range speaker it created the hiss. So this is a separate weird issue I discovered.

Now, I have disconnected the blue plug that connects the top round speakers and the hiss is gone. I plug it back it in, the hiss turns on. I have narrowed it down to the round speaker causing this hiss. Maybe there is a connection issue with that tweeter from the factory?

I think it's too much work to try to pull it apart at the moment. I'm going to keep the blue plug disconnected and accept it the way it is. I still have the 2 door tweeters that work great.

Thanks everyone for trying to help me with this.

For anyone that is interested in Todd's cable, I highly recommend it. He has been great in trying to help me fix this issue. He also sent me a replacement cable to eliminate any worries that the cable is the problem.

 

[HKP_Tom]

Does anyone know if the 2019 rear shelf with speakers can be added to a 2021 car? If so, what DIY lead would you need to wire them up?

Thanks!

 

[Ry3n]

Does anyone know if the 2019 rear shelf with speakers can be added to a 2021 car? If so, what DIY lead would you need to wire them up?

Thanks!

Just check out HitUpOlas. He has swapped out the rear speaker tray. Had a video on it too. You can probably get the wiring with the rear deck included, or separately?

Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

I have a June ‘20 model and have the rear speakers. Out of curiosity what month/year is yours? the sticker on the driver's door jamb say 02/20 and it appears that I have speakers, but it is hard to tell. I think I can make out rubber surrounds and the voice coil dome through the grills. If I...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[GregoryK]

Why not just add a couple of 4 ohm speakers to the existing shelf? Yes you have to remove it and cut a hole for the speakers but you don't have to buy a used shelf and you know it will fit.

 

[HKP_Tom]

because I have a 2019 shelf in my old SR+ I'm selling. Was wondering about swapping it into the 2021

 

[GregoryK]

Doesn't matter. You have to remove both shelves anyway. If it fits and is not damaged, go for it. If it does not fit or look good just put the 2019 speakers in the 2021 shelf.

 

[HKP_Tom]

So I'll need a 2020 DIY lead?

 

[bo3bdar]

So I'll need a 2020 DIY lead?

Do you mean the harness? You'll need the 2021 harness, because the important parts are the connectors to the amp and connector near the floor on the B pillar. The harnesses typically also allow for back deck connections to the connector behind the passenger side bolster.

Also just noting that the 2019 deck might have the hole for the subwoofer audio, but your deck on the 2021 won't have a corresponding hole, so a subwoofer in the trunk will mostly blocked by the seats.

 

[Mr X]

My Dad just got a Model 3 Performance and I cannot tell a difference between the sound in his car and my SR+ with the DIY install.


Literally sounds the same, which is great! The bass doesn't even sound any different from the rear either, I'm surprised.


Now, I can absolutely tell a difference in acceleration, but that's a different topic

 

[midyrvt]

I have a couple modified harnesses I can sell. These are designed to be fully plug and play with an Alpine KTP-445u and a Rockford Fosgate R2-250X1 to power an OEM subwoofer. Everything installed gets hidden just like OEM, not under the seat. Contact me for details.
View attachment 609469

I have a couple modified harnesses I can sell. These are designed to be fully plug and play with an Alpine KTP-445u and a Rockford Fosgate R2-250X1 to power an OEM subwoofer. Everything installed gets hidden just like OEM, not under the seat. Contact me for details.
View attachment 609469

I would be interested in purchasing one of these harness if they are still for sale. I have a few questions if you could DM me I would appreciate it as I can not send DM's since I am a new member. Thanks!

 

[HGS100]

My Dad just got a Model 3 Performance and I cannot tell a difference between the sound in his car and my SR+ with the DIY install.


Literally sounds the same, which is great! The bass doesn't even sound any different from the rear either, I'm surprised.


Now, I can absolutely tell a difference in acceleration, but that's a different topic

I recently installed the 2021 DIY kit to my Model 3, and I can barely tell a difference between the original sound system and this new one with the a-pillar speakers. I know the speakers work because if I open the doors, I can hear them, but they create just a little bit of noise. Is there anything wrong with my setup?

 

[HKP_Tom]

I spoke to hansshow and am still none the wiser regarding if I can add a DIY lead to a 2021 and use the rear shelf speakers from my 2019 which I took out...!