Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[bo3bdar]

Looks like they raised their price for all versions. Not sure if they did this recently, or if they did it to make the discount seem more appealing than it actually is. I paid for Version F $1,099. I had also bought the DIY version before upgrading and I paid $80 for that.

Because it's a scam they always pull. Right around black friday, they jack the price up, so that it can offer a 'big' discount for black friday. Every year it's the same.

You are all adults and can make your own decisions, but if you read through this thread you would never buy this Hansshow audio kit.

 

[Audietron]

Because it's a scam they always pull. Right around black friday, they jack the price up, so that it can offer a 'big' discount for black friday. Every year it's the same.

You are all adults and can make your own decisions, but if you read through this thread you would never buy this Hansshow audio kit.

if we were adult and smart enough, we weren't buying a Tesla as well... Phantom breaking and many life threatening issues alongside all fancy features - but we all still bought it and testing it out at risk of our life... aren't we? When was the last time mass population was using BETA version of products or software in real life scenario?

SO based on that logic, I also bought Hanshow DIY kit with two speakers and fitted. if anything, it turned on speakers in car which were never plugged in... a good enough reason to purchase it.

 

[badiban]

if we were adult and smart enough, we weren't buying a Tesla as well... Phantom breaking and many life threatening issues alongside all fancy features - but we all still bought it and testing it out at risk of our life... aren't we? When was the last time mass population was using BETA version of products or software in real life scenario?

SO based on that logic, I also bought Hanshow DIY kit with two speakers and fitted. if anything, it turned on speakers in car which were never plugged in... a good enough reason to purchase it.

It's a valid argument, but there's one thing Hansshow does not have that is critical for a good sales experience: post-purchase support. With Hansshow, they will put in minimal effort to assisting you if you have trouble with their product, and many people have had a lot of trouble with their product. This thread is evidence of that.

Say what you will about Tesla's SC, but they will (in my experience) evaluate and help you if your car has serious issues. Hansshow does not even try. And their QC is some of the worst that I've ever seen. I have purchased 2 of their products, and I am recommending everyone steer far and clear from this company.

 

[Audietron]

It's a valid argument, but there's one thing Hansshow does not have that is critical for a good sales experience: post-purchase support. With Hansshow, they will put in minimal effort to assisting you if you have trouble with their product, and many people have had a lot of trouble with their product. This thread is evidence of that.

Say what you will about Tesla's SC, but they will (in my experience) evaluate and help you if your car has serious issues. Hansshow does not even try. And their QC is some of the worst that I've ever seen. I have purchased 2 of their products, and I am recommending everyone steer far and clear from this company.

I totally agree with you... they are running thin and wouldn't respond to everyone.
Before purchase their response was fastest ever... post-sales they wouldn't respond to my messages (armature questions, I guess), but my car detailing guy standing g next to me gets all the response and call back he needs (He is the one who fitted stuff and have valid question/experience)...

Personally I consider the language challenges as well... most people at Hanshow are Chinese, good at what they do, but not necessarily good at English as much as we expect automatically... so answering to us is like - all of us asking questions in Mandarin Chinese - if we were, how many question we would ask correctly and interpret the answers in correct English? potentially that is what messing with their customer support.... all they might need is dedicated support person with good English skills.

 

[titanle]

As an update, I got my tracking from Hansshow and it will be delivered by next week here in Canada. I would try contacting them directly instead of just ordering from the site, I was able to get a decent deal that way.

 

[pre5ton]

Can you message me re: this? Been lurking for a while, but I think because I haven't posted before it won't let me message.

I'm also interested @todd2fst4u but have lurked without an account so can't PM you.

 

[PuckHawg]

If the shop you are referring to is in Nanaimo, I might be that other owner. I had my version F installed there and the sub has never worked. I paid hundreds of dollars for the installation.

I drafted a review praising the model F, (with the exception of the subwoofer problem) and showed it to Hansshow as I tried to work with them on resolving the subwoofer issue. I may as well have been trying to work with monkeys who had a laptop. Regardless of how many times I described the problem, they repeated the same advice.

I asked Hansshow to send me a new version F kit so that I could have it installed (at my cost for the installation) and return the defective kit to them at their cost. Hansshow refused.

Eventually they sent me a replacement wiring harness that I have not yet had installed.

I really wanted to be able to write good things about Hansshow and their products. Unfortunately, I cannot in good conscience do that.

Sorry to hear you never had any resolution from Hansshow on your faulty sub, that’s pretty disgraceful. As we know the Nanaimo shop installed my version F 3 days after your install last January and everything worked fine. Apart from the annoyingly loud chimes I’ve had no issues with the system.

 

[ajbarry]

I received the new Version F last week after a 2 month wait to the San Francisco Bay Area. I did the install myself in about 5 hours... slow and steady as to not mess up my Sept 2021 M3 SR+

I can offer some install observations for other brave DIY souls based on my experience.

1. The harness for this version and model is fully plug-and-play. No pins to jump or anything.
2. The harness has some interesting choices for cable junction points and lengths. Some are 2x longer than what they need to be and others just barely long enough. Perhaps they have one harness now for different LHD/RHD models or manufacturing country differences?
3. All speakers are confirmed to be activated and receiving a signal but you will only be able to tell with your ear directly over the front pillars and rear shelf speakers from the kit.
4. The dual DSP mounting bracket has a couple of issues:
   1. The bracket needs to use the existing bolts that hold the right side of the trunk in place. Don't be like me and only realize you've unbolted the trunk when it starts limping down over you. Do one bolt at a time or get a second pair of hands to hold the trunk in place for this part. Also, don't be like me and create your own panel gap by tightening the trunk down all skewed out of place... it sucks when you think closing the trunk is the absolute last step. Ugh.
   2. You cannot re-install the right trunk carpet sidewall support without trimming off nearly all of the plastic 90 degree brace molding on one of its arms. This part is probably meant to be discarded but I wasn't happy with that idea so I modified it with an oscillating saw and it continues to support the sidewall cavities that the sub doesn't fill.
   3. In the end I couldn't fit the carpet trim back in it's original position with the DSPs mounted on the side of the sub behind the carpet wall so I got creative and re-mounted the DSPs on the outside of the trunk carpet wall, permanently exposed and visible. Basically the bracket is upside-down now and resting on the trunk floor and held in place with one of the heavy duty zip ties they supplied. Its actually pretty clean and secure if you don't mind seeing the DSPs in your trunk. All the cables can be neatly tucked out of sight. Here is where the cable lengths are a challenge though.

Overall I am 99% happy with sound improvement. I commute about 100mi a day so music in the car is my savior... just not worth $10k for LR but almost.

The 1% dissatisfaction is because the front and rear surround are on the same channels and cannot be independently adjusted for volume. The rear shelf speakers, which are now surface mount and fairly well blocked by the rear head rests, do not noticeably contribute much to the soundstage, just like those in the front pillars. It definitely seems jenky to install them this way but honestly they are so much easier to install than the previous version under the empty grilles and they don't look that bad. No lives will be changed up front with these but maybe rear passengers will appreciate the subtle, indirect mid-range they provide.

I did have to contact Hansshow for support because the rear shelf speakers would consistently cut out at the 10 min mark from power-on. I was able to get on a WhatsApp video chat with Hansshow and they spent over an hour with me to troubleshoot with a multimeter. We didn't find the issue together but I got enough information to do some more troubleshooting and they offered to send me a new harness and DSP to try in the meantime.

After another hour of troubleshooting on my own, the issue turned out to be the driver's side pillar speaker was shorting out on the body because whoever was on headliner duty that day did not cover the speaker terminals with the insulating foam. After re-positioning the foam to cover the terminals all of the surround speakers appear to be maintaining a signal now. I can't imagine anyone else is going to run into this issue however.

Thanks to everyone who has shared their input, ideas and support to others as I have only lurked on this 81 page thread.

 

[Audietron]

I received the new Version F last week after a 2 month wait to the San Francisco Bay Area. I did the install myself in about 5 hours... slow and steady as to not mess up my Sept 2021 M3 SR+

I can offer some install observations for other brave DIY souls based on my experience.

1. The harness for this version and model is fully plug-and-play. No pins to jump or anything.
2. The harness has some interesting choices for cable junction points and lengths. Some are 2x longer than what they need to be and others just barely long enough. Perhaps they have one harness now for different LHD/RHD models or manufacturing country differences?
3. All speakers are confirmed to be activated and receiving a signal but you will only be able to tell with your ear directly over the front pillars and rear shelf speakers from the kit.
4. The dual DSP mounting bracket has a couple of issues:
   1. The bracket needs to use the existing bolts that hold the right side of the trunk in place. Don't be like me and only realize you've unbolted the trunk when it starts limping down over you. Do one bolt at a time or get a second pair of hands to hold the trunk in place for this part. Also, don't be like me and create your own panel gap by tightening the trunk down all skewed out of place... it sucks when you think closing the trunk is the absolute last step. Ugh.
   2. You cannot re-install the right trunk carpet sidewall support without trimming off nearly all of the plastic 90 degree brace molding on one of its arms. This part is probably meant to be discarded but I wasn't happy with that idea so I modified it with an oscillating saw and it continues to support the sidewall cavities that the sub doesn't fill.
   3. In the end I couldn't fit the carpet trim back in it's original position with the DSPs mounted on the side of the sub behind the carpet wall so I got creative and re-mounted the DSPs on the outside of the trunk carpet wall, permanently exposed and visible. Basically the bracket is upside-down now and resting on the trunk floor and held in place with one of the heavy duty zip ties they supplied. Its actually pretty clean and secure if you don't mind seeing the DSPs in your trunk. All the cables can be neatly tucked out of sight. Here is where the cable lengths are a challenge though.

Overall I am 99% happy with sound improvement. I commute about 100mi a day so music in the car is my savior... just not worth $10k for LR but almost.

The 1% dissatisfaction is because the front and rear surround are on the same channels and cannot be independently adjusted for volume. The rear shelf speakers, which are now surface mount and fairly well blocked by the rear head rests, do not noticeably contribute much to the soundstage, just like those in the front pillars. It definitely seems jenky to install them this way but honestly they are so much easier to install than the previous version under the empty grilles and they don't look that bad. No lives will be changed up front with these but maybe rear passengers will appreciate the subtle, indirect mid-range they provide.

I did have to contact Hansshow for support because the rear shelf speakers would consistently cut out at the 10 min mark from power-on. I was able to get on a WhatsApp video chat with Hansshow and they spent over an hour with me to troubleshoot with a multimeter. We didn't find the issue together but I got enough information to do some more troubleshooting and they offered to send me a new harness and DSP to try in the meantime.

After another hour of troubleshooting on my own, the issue turned out to be the driver's side pillar speaker was shorting out on the body because whoever was on headliner duty that day did not cover the speaker terminals with the insulating foam. After re-positioning the foam to cover the terminals all of the surround speakers appear to be maintaining a signal now. I can't imagine anyone else is going to run into this issue however.

Thanks to everyone who has shared their input, ideas and support to others as I have only lurked on this 81 page thread.

Thanks for very detailed and informative post...
This confirms my fear that there will be plenty challenges when installing DIY kit, so I had it installed by car detailing guys... luckily I made a deal with them when wrapping the car that covers full car PPF (full car plus wheels + accessories) + Ceramic (inside-out) + any accessories + car valet clean for next 2 years so installation was free... they had to deal with hanshaw few times when installing this system and massage modules.

 

[booruce]

So not to freak anyone out but I had the Version A installed on a 2021 M3 SR+ and I experienced similar issues as the post on Reddit with the 12v battery. Everything worked fine for the first few months until I started getting these random errors about the 12v battery and electrical system power being reduced not all features may function, eventually it would clear itself. However, after about 4 months of getting these errors on and off it finally killed my 12v and the error wasn't clearing itself.

First I thought it was a charging problem, because it only ever seemed to occur when I was charging at home and after the car would go into deep sleep (as I rarely charged away from home it would never go into deep sleep when I charged away from home). Turns out what was happening is when the car wakes up from sleep, it really didn't like that additional draw on wake from the amp/sub so it would throw some electrical errors about the 12v and eventually disconnect the accessory power (to protect itself I am guessing?). I had to bring it into a Tesla SC to get it replaced. That is when they confirmed my suspicion about the Hansshow Audio upgrade being the issue.

At first I really doubted that was the problem as I had a installer put everything in and it WAS working fine. But ever since they disconnected the Hansshow system from the penthouse 12v connector, I haven't had any errors now charging or waking up from deep sleep. I'm really not sure if this issue will affect everyone eventually or maybe it was just adding more stress to a bad 12v but mine only lasted 4 months.

I'm going to keep it disconnected for another 4 months to see if it comes up again before thinking about putting it back together.

 

[Audietron]

So not to freak anyone out but I had the Version A installed on a 2021 M3 SR+ and I experienced similar issues as the post on Reddit with the 12v battery. Everything worked fine for the first few months until I started getting these random errors about the 12v battery and electrical system power being reduced not all features may function, eventually it would clear itself. However, after about 4 months of getting these errors on and off it finally killed my 12v and the error wasn't clearing itself.

First I thought it was a charging problem, because it only ever seemed to occur when I was charging at home and after the car would go into deep sleep (as I rarely charged away from home it would never go into deep sleep when I charged away from home). Turns out what was happening is when the car wakes up from sleep, it really didn't like that additional draw on wake from the amp/sub so it would throw some electrical errors about the 12v and eventually disconnect the accessory power (to protect itself I am guessing?). I had to bring it into a Tesla SC to get it replaced. That is when they confirmed my suspicion about the Hansshow Audio upgrade being the issue.

At first I really doubted that was the problem as I had a installer put everything in and it WAS working fine. But ever since they disconnected the Hansshow system from the penthouse 12v connector, I haven't had any errors now charging or waking up from deep sleep. I'm really not sure if this issue will affect everyone eventually or maybe it was just adding more stress to a bad 12v but mine only lasted 4 months.

I'm going to keep it disconnected for another 4 months to see if it comes up again before thinking about putting it back together.

if it's just waking up issue you can put summon mode on standby and it will solve everything. as car is almost always ready (your battery consumption is 1-2% more than usual)....
I never had this issue, maybe because car never gets to deep sleep. or maybe I had upgraded version...

 

[Stives]

No, I run both front tweeters in parallel.

Are the two tweeter of a door pillar (Front door and Imaging) in parallel but the set is not in parallel with the dashboard speaker?

 

[todd2fst4u]

Are the two tweeter of a door pillar (Front door and Imaging) in parallel but the set is not in parallel with the dashboard speaker?

Correct, I use a separate amplifier to power the tweeter and door pillar. The dashboard speaker is their input after filtering the low frequencies.

 

[Stives]

Correct, I use a separate amplifier to power the tweeter and door pillar. The dashboard speaker is their input after filtering the low frequencies.

It seems to me that you were selling the modified Tesla offer cable (Evoffer) to make this assembly with an Alpine amplifier. It's always like that ?

 

[Stives]

The documentation for the Alpine KTP-445U (with gain adjustment) shows that it does not have an integrated filter. It is therefore necessary to add bass jerkers; 0 to 5.6 kHz is suitable?
Where to place the amplifier given the routing of the EVOffer harness (Tesla Offer)?
Is the wiring diagram supplied with the cable in order to modify it?

Is it problematic to be unable to adjust the levels between the two tweeters?

 

[rmable54]

I installed the version F (activating front pillar and door tweeters) several months ago in my 2021 SR+. Last week, while installing 2021.44.6, the install got stuck at 60%. I left it overnight and in the morning the car was completely dead. Towed into Tesla service center and, after a few days of investigation, they came to the conclusion that the main computer is dead and they "think" it was the audio upgrade that did it (no proof yet, just a relayed message through front desk staff, so I wasn't able to get a technical explanation). So, they are not covering it under warranty, charging me $2200 for a new computer. I am highly skeptical that this was the actual problem and assume this is likely a case of them relying on customer ignorance, hoping I'll just pay it and move on. Does anyone understand the schematic in more detail to know if this is physically possible? It seems to me that all the audio upgrade could have possibly done is put a bit more load on the existing output (which has been working great for months). I see no way how this could have shorted out and bricked the whole computer. Thanks!

 

[rmable54]

I installed the version F (activating front pillar and door tweeters) several months ago in my 2021 SR+. Last week, while installing 2021.44.6, the install got stuck at 60%. I left it overnight and in the morning the car was completely dead. Towed into Tesla service center and, after a few days of investigation, they came to the conclusion that the main computer is dead and they "think" it was the audio upgrade that did it (no proof yet, just a relayed message through front desk staff, so I wasn't able to get a technical explanation). So, they are not covering it under warranty, charging me $2200 for a new computer. I am highly skeptical that this was the actual problem and assume this is likely a case of them relying on customer ignorance, hoping I'll just pay it and move on. Does anyone understand the schematic in more detail to know if this is physically possible? It seems to me that all the audio upgrade could have possibly done is put a bit more load on the existing output (which has been working great for months). I see no way how this could have shorted out and bricked the whole computer. Thanks!

Edit: it was the DIY kit, not version F.

 

[todd2fst4u]

It seems to me that you were selling the modified Tesla offer cable (Evoffer) to make this assembly with an Alpine amplifier. It's always like that ?

The documentation for the Alpine KTP-445U (with gain adjustment) shows that it does not have an integrated filter. It is therefore necessary to add bass jerkers; 0 to 5.6 kHz is suitable?
Where to place the amplifier given the routing of the EVOffer harness (Tesla Offer)?
Is the wiring diagram supplied with the cable in order to modify it?

Is it problematic to be unable to adjust the levels between the two tweeters?

Are you asking if Tesla’s premium audio system uses the overhead and door tweeter in parallel? No

The Alpine KTP-445u does have filtering but not to a high enough frequency. My harness has bass blockers built in. I use 0-5600 Hz at 4 ohms.
I mount the Alpine amp behind the right rear seat side bolster though my harness is a custom length made from scratch.
A wiring diagram is not included from EVoffer or Hansshow.
I don’t have an issue with not being able to adjust gain independently between the overhead and door tweeter.

 

[Stives]

Are you asking if Tesla’s premium audio system uses the overhead and door tweeter in parallel? No

The Alpine KTP-445u does have filtering but not to a high enough frequency. My harness has bass blockers built in. I use 0-5600 Hz at 4 ohms.
I mount the Alpine amp behind the right rear seat side bolster though my harness is a custom length made from scratch.
A wiring diagram is not included from EVoffer or Hansshow.
I don’t have an issue with not being able to adjust gain independently between the overhead and door tweeter.

I found one of your posts in which two channels of the Alpine seem to be used for the surround back speakers. In this type of installation (Model 3 ex SR +) the overhead tweeter is not connected?
In general (addition of the subwoofer separately), with control of the budget, is it more relevant to change the original speakers by STEG or Light Harmonics or to keep them and install a DSP?

 

[bo3bdar]

Edit: it was the DIY kit, not version F.

The only thing these DIY cables do is to double up speakers on the main outputs. The back door speakers are doubled to the rear deck speakers. The front deck speakers are tripled to the tweeters and imaging tweeters. Doubling is probably not an issue, that gives you a 2 ohm load, and pretty much all amplifiers can do that. Tripling is questionable, giving you a 1.33 ohm load.

So it's not impossible that extra load would blow out the audio amplifier, or one of the channels of the amplifier. But killing the entire MCU because of a load on the audio system would have to be an impossibly crap engineering design. That would also mean the amplfier doesn't have protection fuses. And every amplifier I've looked at will go into protection mode when overloaded. I don't think Tesla makes that level of mistakes.

The wires/plugs only attach to the audio outputs, nothing else. So it's a real stretch to see how it could kill the MCU.