Yes, the system is tweak that way which is how professional set up a sound system competition car. The sound coming from the dash like you're in a concert that's why you can barely hear the rear speakers activated or not (rear shelf). I just ordered the wiring kit last night. I'm adding a real subwoofer to the trunk cargo area. I have a 10" JL Audio 10W3 and Rockford amp from my previous car. I'll see if I need to keep the Hansshow sub. I'll probably just dial it down as a filler.
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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)
- Thread starter InfinitySky
- Start date
Can someone please help me interpret a message I got from Hansshow? Perhaps I don't understand how the volume settings work in the car.
They are saying that before installing the DSP the maximum volume of the car can only reach 80db. If my phone's volume is set to 50% then it will maybe be 60db, but after adding the DSP the maximum volume can be 110 db. 50% volume on the phone would be 90db.
I provided a screenshot to them with my volume settings on my phone and they suggested I turn down my alarm volume, on my phone, to 10-20%. I don't understand what my phones volume has to do with the radio, streaming, or spotify services. I would totally understand this if I were streaming music through my bluetooth, but that is not the case. Is my phone linked to general audio settings in the car even if I am not using bluetooth?
They are saying that before installing the DSP the maximum volume of the car can only reach 80db. If my phone's volume is set to 50% then it will maybe be 60db, but after adding the DSP the maximum volume can be 110 db. 50% volume on the phone would be 90db.
I provided a screenshot to them with my volume settings on my phone and they suggested I turn down my alarm volume, on my phone, to 10-20%. I don't understand what my phones volume has to do with the radio, streaming, or spotify services. I would totally understand this if I were streaming music through my bluetooth, but that is not the case. Is my phone linked to general audio settings in the car even if I am not using bluetooth?
Please stop using us as beta testers then use our information on this forum to present customers with your fixes. Hansshow's pamphlet to customers now with TMC pictures and fixes:
This picture in the instructions look familiar?
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Seems communications is part of the problem. There are many documented real problems but just about all are responded to as simply a DSP personal taste issue that can be adjusted out. Seems one of the most widely reported issues is that the door speakers lose bass after the kit is uninstalled and the suggested solution is a DSP adjustment. They've stated that they set the DSP to what they call a "standard sound effect" which seems odd that their standard setting reduces bass to the door woofers - why not leave the bass as is for the doors? As far as I know, the factory amount of bass sent to the doors is not over-powering so it makes no sense to purposely adjust them down unless it is not a settings issue and it is a hardware issue. If people adjust their DSP and can get the original amount of bass back in the front door speakers, then that would be great but sounds like this may not be possible.
Another part of the problem is that there are so many combinations and permutations of kits and equipment. So far it seems like there have been 5 subwoofers and now there is a 3rd DSP in the works. That sounds like a lot of things to engineer, R&D, and support and maybe a better approach would be to narrow the options to allow more resources to support fewer items and more resources to focused on R&D so users spend more time enjoying their new audio add-ons rather than tinkering/tuning.
Another part of the problem is that there are so many combinations and permutations of kits and equipment. So far it seems like there have been 5 subwoofers and now there is a 3rd DSP in the works. That sounds like a lot of things to engineer, R&D, and support and maybe a better approach would be to narrow the options to allow more resources to support fewer items and more resources to focused on R&D so users spend more time enjoying their new audio add-ons rather than tinkering/tuning.
Did you provide permission for the use of your photo?
lol. Don't answer that.Wow just wow to them using your pictures and this thread as their R&D for the product. I mean I’m not saying I’m surprised by any means, but just the overall audacity.
Had a found this thread before I ordered, I wouldn’t have. Sadly I watched YouTube videos, and FB with a lot of people’s positive posts, mainly on the DIY cable. I was never interested in the DSP so never dig deep.
I may install my Vers A, or I gonna reach out to the kit who made his own kit using the factory sub.
I see you have been the beta testers, and I want to say thanks as my wiring seems to be corrected after going over the harness, I received on 12/4 and I now know it’s thanks to the users here lol
Had a found this thread before I ordered, I wouldn’t have. Sadly I watched YouTube videos, and FB with a lot of people’s positive posts, mainly on the DIY cable. I was never interested in the DSP so never dig deep.
I may install my Vers A, or I gonna reach out to the kit who made his own kit using the factory sub.
I see you have been the beta testers, and I want to say thanks as my wiring seems to be corrected after going over the harness, I received on 12/4 and I now know it’s thanks to the users here lol
At least this community is super helpful in sharing ways to resolve various issues and concerns. Since you already have it, just try it based on all the findings before buying other equipment unless you can sell it and not lose too much. If someone asked me for a recommendation at this point I'd recommend the TeslaOffer harness and the NVX subwoofer.
Ry3n
Member
Yes. It's universal. That does mean that you have to manually tap into the signal wires though. No plug in for that.
Ok so in the "Solutions to common problems" document it pretty much outlines and they admit that what came out of the factory didn't work. We, the consumer, that paid a lot of money for the products, had to come up with fixes, and now they are using our fixes to help others who got bad products?
I don't have 1st hand knowledge of the harness but from what I understand the harness will activate the inactive speakers on the SR+ and you still have to splice into the harness to get a signal for the NVX subwoofer. There is another post of a member who took the TeslaOffer harness as a starting point to installing an OEM sub with an aftermarket amp so based on that it's doable (see post 56 by todd2fst4u). Besides the benefit of having dormant speakers activated, the harness gives you the option of the splice without cutting factory speaker wires. You will need to tap into the front door speaker wiring for the sub signal as those speakers see the lowest frequencies in the stock SR+ system.
I just received my DYI harness for the front and rear speakers. I ordered it on Thanksgiving. The kit came with no directions or tools. I have a Sep 2020 built M3 so no rear speakers. Not sure if it's worth installing the kit after reading this forum. Is activating just the front speakers worth it? Greatly appreciate to hear your thoughts, experiences with the front speakes activation.
I installed it and lost quite a bit of bass from the front door woofers. The treble was much clearer but the factory stock set up still better in my opinion. Depends on personal preference.
So I went back to the installer and he tweaked the amp and set up for me and it’s a little better. I realized all the inactive speakers are actually working. LOL. Still, overall , it sounds pretty good. Kinda notice when I raise the volume above 50 pct , it’s sounds better but not into cranking It up that high. I think , that will be as much as I’ll put into the car for now. LOL. I’m sure adding that 10 inch sub will be huge for you.
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