Have you considered just installing the front part of the harness? I've heard most people don't find the rear speakers make a difference!Shameless plug. If anyone is looking for a brand new Hansshow SR Premium Upgrade DIY kit for to enable the speakers inside their car on their 2017 - early 2020 Model 3, I'm selling one in the Classifieds.
My car didn't come with rear decklid speakers, and rather than finding some and installing them, I just don't feel like doing this project any longer.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)
- Thread starter InfinitySky
- Start date
Hi all, I installed Version F the other day, replacing the DIY Harness I installed a few weeks ago. Holy crap, what a huge difference. Hansshow really got it right with this one. Appreciate all those who beta-tested the older versions of their audio upgrades. I don’t support Hansshow’s business practices, but damn if this product isn’t amazing. Before, I honestly didn’t enjoy driving the car just because of the (IMO) poor audio. Now, I look forward to it everyday. That alone is worth the $1k price tag.
The DIY harness install made me very comfortable with taking apart the car’s panels and familiarizing myself with all the connections, so all together it took about 2.5 hours to install (I skipped the rear shelf speaker install as my car already has them). I recommend finding a buddy to help you install it, it helps to have a second pair of hands. Shipping was also very fast, only took 5 days to get the package after ordering. Hansshow and @HitUpOlas both have YouTube videos on how to do the install, which were very helpful.
Also, thank you to @zugvogel, @Brendwal, and @HitUpOlas who answered my questions
Hit me up if you have any questions!
The DIY harness install made me very comfortable with taking apart the car’s panels and familiarizing myself with all the connections, so all together it took about 2.5 hours to install (I skipped the rear shelf speaker install as my car already has them). I recommend finding a buddy to help you install it, it helps to have a second pair of hands. Shipping was also very fast, only took 5 days to get the package after ordering. Hansshow and @HitUpOlas both have YouTube videos on how to do the install, which were very helpful.
Also, thank you to @zugvogel, @Brendwal, and @HitUpOlas who answered my questions
Hit me up if you have any questions!
What made you change from the DIY harness to version F? Was the DIY harness not good?Hi all, I installed Version F the other day, replacing the DIY Harness I installed a few weeks ago. Holy crap, what a huge difference. Hansshow really got it right with this one. Appreciate all those who beta-tested the older versions of their audio upgrades. I don’t support Hansshow’s business practices, but damn if this product isn’t amazing. Before, I honestly didn’t enjoy driving the car just because of the (IMO) poor audio. Now, I look forward to it everyday. That alone is worth the $1k price tag.
The DIY harness install made me very comfortable with taking apart the car’s panels and familiarizing myself with all the connections, so all together it took about 2.5 hours to install (I skipped the rear shelf speaker install as my car already has them). I recommend finding a buddy to help you install it, it helps to have a second pair of hands. Shipping was also very fast, only took 5 days to get the package after ordering. Hansshow and @HitUpOlas both have YouTube videos on how to do the install, which were very helpful.
Also, thank you to @zugvogel, @Brendwal, and @HitUpOlas who answered my questions
Hit me up if you have any questions!
DIY harness was a good upgrade. For $80, adding in those 6 speakers made a big difference. However, I was craving the bass, it just wasn’t enough. I like Hansshow’s solution because it’s plug and play. If you don’t find the bass lacking, I don’t think you’ll be happy with the price jump from the DIY harness to Version F.
Hi all, I installed Version F the other day, replacing the DIY Harness I installed a few weeks ago. Holy crap, what a huge difference. Hansshow really got it right with this one. Appreciate all those who beta-tested the older versions of their audio upgrades. I don’t support Hansshow’s business practices, but damn if this product isn’t amazing. Before, I honestly didn’t enjoy driving the car just because of the (IMO) poor audio. Now, I look forward to it everyday. That alone is worth the $1k price tag.
The DIY harness install made me very comfortable with taking apart the car’s panels and familiarizing myself with all the connections, so all together it took about 2.5 hours to install (I skipped the rear shelf speaker install as my car already has them). I recommend finding a buddy to help you install it, it helps to have a second pair of hands. Shipping was also very fast, only took 5 days to get the package after ordering. Hansshow and @HitUpOlas both have YouTube videos on how to do the install, which were very helpful.
Also, thank you to @zugvogel, @Brendwal, and @HitUpOlas who answered my questions
Hit me up if you have any questions!
Glad to hear the version F is dialed in. It took several iterations but at least it's done. I agree that the business model of releasing all these previous problematic versions for customers to beta-test is not good.
Installed the DIY Cable only last evening. Luckily, we have a family friend that is an experienced exotic car restoration guy.... I will say that the overall install is easy, the YouTube video by Jim's Garage is a blessing. With two sets of hands, we were done in <90 mins (including beer). Removal of the panels was easier than I thought, it was during reinstall that I was glad to have an experienced person.... this lowered the anxiety level....take your time - it's achievable. My kit now includes a plastic panel pry-tool - which we used (although we had a huge set of panel tools available at the shop). Now the results:
1. Sound quality was noticeably improved - particularly in the front row.
2. Adjusted balance with no issues - front/back or right/left
3. Treble was greatly enhanced, critics may hear a reduced bass - this is up to the individual (Steely Dan sounded great... if you don't know who that is... you likely prefer heavy bass....)
4. Adjusted volume with no perceivable distortion - I will say with four more active speakers in the front - it sounds louder at lower levels
5. Routine warning sounds - autopilot engage/disengage are louder - Joe Mode feature dampens
Hope this helps those considering......
1. Sound quality was noticeably improved - particularly in the front row.
2. Adjusted balance with no issues - front/back or right/left
3. Treble was greatly enhanced, critics may hear a reduced bass - this is up to the individual (Steely Dan sounded great... if you don't know who that is... you likely prefer heavy bass....)
4. Adjusted volume with no perceivable distortion - I will say with four more active speakers in the front - it sounds louder at lower levels
5. Routine warning sounds - autopilot engage/disengage are louder - Joe Mode feature dampens
Hope this helps those considering......
Yes - June 2019 SR+..... I think it laughable that the speakers are there and the harness simply doesn't connect.... I am not wrapped around the axel on the AMP's ability to drive the extra speakers.... I have an EE background and others agree that there is likely a ton of headroom on that system. Just my opinion....
amorris
Member
That's what I was thinking when I saw this. I wish, I could have seen it couple months ago. It's perfect for @todd2fst4u kit.
Installed my kit today with some issues.
My kit came with rear speakers and wiring for them but didn’t install them and I’ll probably just buy a rear deck with speakers already mounted as that might be easier for me.
Rear door speakers are completely dead and front door lower speakers play very low and distorted sound, subwoofer isn’t working also. I’m very confident I installed the kit correctly as I took my time and made sure to check all the connections twice. Anyone else have experienced these issues? I already reached out to hansshow. thanks
My kit came with rear speakers and wiring for them but didn’t install them and I’ll probably just buy a rear deck with speakers already mounted as that might be easier for me.
Rear door speakers are completely dead and front door lower speakers play very low and distorted sound, subwoofer isn’t working also. I’m very confident I installed the kit correctly as I took my time and made sure to check all the connections twice. Anyone else have experienced these issues? I already reached out to hansshow. thanks
amorris
Member
I’m not sure why people even want the rear deck speakers. Almost any sound quality setup doesn’t use rear speakers at all. I’m not even bothering on my setup, but I will leave the rear doors active. I’m curious also what hansshow does with the center channel. Not too many DSPs out there do a true real center channel.
It’s personal preference and individual usage. I like a surround sound experience. I have 7.1 Setup in my theater room and really like the immersive effect. Few days a week I’m watching Netflix during my daughters swim class in the Tesla. The rear sound is so much more important with movies. Kids appreciate the rear speakers as well since you can really tell they are there when sitting in the back seat. Without them everything is from the front.
The version F DSP is extremely well balanced. If you want center channel focus I’m sure you could plug a laptop in and play with the settings.
In my theater setup I spent the most $ on my center channel speaker for the clarity but I do not have it boosted up in any way.
I figured some of you might be interested in seeing what the actual RTA curve of the stock SR+ audio system is. All measurements were done with a calibrated microphone, audio tool app (loaded up with the calibration file), immersive sound OFF, the mic at roughly where the driver's head would be, fader in the center, and a high quality pink noise played via USB. First and foremost, a dead flat RTA is not what you are after or looking for when it comes to listening to music. Humans don't hear all frequencies equally an almost nobody would like the sound of a flat frequency response.
I'll use the Harman International target curve for reference as it's been around for quite some time and many swear by it.
And here is the SR+ with all bands of the EQ set to 0 (flat).
As you can see this actually pretty decent in most places. It needs a sub to fill in up to about 60zh, then there is slight decrease from 60-125 (this is actually a good thing), it's relatively flat out to about 2k (also good), and then a slight drop in output out to about 16K where it then falls off. Setting the EQ to +4, +2, 0, -1, -2.5 resulted in the best curve for me. The reduce treble is the best compromise to tame that peak around 13K.
Ok, and now for my pet peeve. For the life of me I don't know why people immediately set their EQ's to a smiley face for virtually everything they own. Jump in most people's cars and chances are both bass and treble are pegged at their highest values. So here is the SR+ with a smiley face EQ setting (+8, +4, 0, +4, +8): The rise from 1k up is the equivalent to nails on a chalkboard. The only person I can imagine this sounding good to is someone who has been playing live shows for decades with zero hearing protection. For anyone else this will produce ear fatigue pretty quickly.
So, how to this relate to the Hansshow audio upgrade. Well, after performing these measurements I don't have any real desire to add any sound from any of the additional unconnected speakers (only 4 for me as mine is a '21). The speaker high up on the A pillar is too close to either the driver or passenger's head and will pull the the soundstage back and bias it towards either listener. The lower A pillar location is actually pretty good but it's not as if the system needs any additional upper mid-range or treble. I'm sure someone will say how great the full premium system sounds with all the speakers playing, but there's a lot more going on than what any of these audio upgrade jumper cables are doing. A sub, on the other hand, is definitely in order.
I'll use the Harman International target curve for reference as it's been around for quite some time and many swear by it.
And here is the SR+ with all bands of the EQ set to 0 (flat).
As you can see this actually pretty decent in most places. It needs a sub to fill in up to about 60zh, then there is slight decrease from 60-125 (this is actually a good thing), it's relatively flat out to about 2k (also good), and then a slight drop in output out to about 16K where it then falls off. Setting the EQ to +4, +2, 0, -1, -2.5 resulted in the best curve for me. The reduce treble is the best compromise to tame that peak around 13K.
Ok, and now for my pet peeve. For the life of me I don't know why people immediately set their EQ's to a smiley face for virtually everything they own. Jump in most people's cars and chances are both bass and treble are pegged at their highest values. So here is the SR+ with a smiley face EQ setting (+8, +4, 0, +4, +8): The rise from 1k up is the equivalent to nails on a chalkboard. The only person I can imagine this sounding good to is someone who has been playing live shows for decades with zero hearing protection. For anyone else this will produce ear fatigue pretty quickly.
So, how to this relate to the Hansshow audio upgrade. Well, after performing these measurements I don't have any real desire to add any sound from any of the additional unconnected speakers (only 4 for me as mine is a '21). The speaker high up on the A pillar is too close to either the driver or passenger's head and will pull the the soundstage back and bias it towards either listener. The lower A pillar location is actually pretty good but it's not as if the system needs any additional upper mid-range or treble. I'm sure someone will say how great the full premium system sounds with all the speakers playing, but there's a lot more going on than what any of these audio upgrade jumper cables are doing. A sub, on the other hand, is definitely in order.
Couldn't agree more. The factory premium probably controls each speaker independently (separate channel) for sound, power, frequency range, time alignment, etc and the whole thing is tuned. These audio upgrade jumper cables are simply taking a particular channel and repeating the signal (not adding any channels). Adding these jumper cables does not equal premium sound. However, the jumper cables should add more sound which sounds to some ears "better". I think adding the sub to the SR+ is what I would do and I'd choose the NVX.
This is good stuff. Thanks for posting. It's funny my EQ is kinda similar to yours. Mine is at +1, +0.5, -0.5, -1, -2. I have the Kit A with 10" JL Audio sub. I also did an intensive sound dampening of the entire car. I would love to see the RTA curve on mine. Too bad, I sold my calibrated mic.
I had the base sound system for a year. It was good, the sound stage is actually good. After installing the hansshow kit. It sounded even better. I'll try to explain the difference between the two. Before the sound is coming from the low portion of the windshield. This is where the 3 dash speakers are located. It's pretty much sitting below the windshield. Now that the door and A-pillar speakers are working. The sound is now coming from the entire area of the windshield. It has more dimension than before. It didn't pull the sound stage but made it more fuller. I wouldn't go back to the base audio.
amorris
Member
I’ll be doing some RTA posts once I get my new system all up and running. Got my Helix DSP and sub amp in, so now it’s time to wire it all up and play. Oh and build a ported box for my 10.
you can find my progress here:
My Model 3 Audio SQ Build Log (Helix, Audiofrog, HAT)
you can find my progress here:
My Model 3 Audio SQ Build Log (Helix, Audiofrog, HAT)
Similar threads
