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Hansshow premium audio upgrade for 2023 M3SR

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At this rate, I’d rather buy a corrected cable from you. This is awesome info, I’ll save for reference. Thank you so much for sharing.

There should be no talk of sales of harnesses or cables from non vendor accounts. I am specifically saying no one should be talking about buying anything in this thread from @RWAudio as they are not a vendor account. We allow person to person sharing, but a business selling something will need to be a vendor.

Right now it looks like @RWAudio is just sharing a bunch of technical information, and thats fine, but I would caution anyone to not anything that looks like buying something from them, or I will likely need to forward their account to the site admins for discussion of becoming a vendor account.
 
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There should be no talk of sales of harnesses or cables from non vendor accounts. I am specifically saying no one should be talking about buying anything in this thread from @RWAudio as they are not a vendor account. We allow person to person sharing, but a business selling something will need to be a vendor.

Right now it looks like @RWAudio is just sharing a bunch of technical information, and thats fine, but I would caution anyone to not anything that looks like buying something from them, or I will likely need to forward their account to the site admins for discussion of becoming a vendor account.
My apologies, I'll make sure there is no offer of this, but will continue to provide all of my learnings, I'll PM you about the proper process of becoming a vendor account if that's what I should be, I don't want to step outside the rules.
 
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New here, picked up my 2023 M3 RWD last week and LOVING it. I don't really care for the A-pillar drivers, but I find the EVOffer harness intriguing because of the sub-out. Is there any way to kind of make a hybrid harness with the sub-out of the EVOffer, but activate the door tweeters only from the Hansshow and keep the A-pillars disconnected?
That is entirely possible, I just did almost exactly what you are asking for, however I put the 47 ohm resistors that are in the harness in series with the pillar speakers and I can't say that I can actually hear them, they might provide subtle ambiance.

As per my previous post in this thread, you can acquire the right door woofer signal from X053A Pin 29 (positive) Pin 30 (negative) as shown below. This wire should be around 12-14' long to reach the factory subwoofer location or the right side of the lower tub.

IMG_0956.JPG



The left woofer signal comes from X936F Pin 15 (positive) and Pin 1 (negative) as shown below. I didn't actually measure the length of this extension but it's around 3-4' shorter than the other one.

IMG_0957.JPG


To lower the level of the pillar speakers cut one brown wire from one side of the resistor and one pink wire from the other side then solder the pink/brown that were just cut together. This will likely put this speaker out of phase, but I went ahead with this. To do the other speaker you cut one orange and one grey from the other resistor and connect them together. To keep these speakers in phase assuming the harness was wired correctly to begin with disconnect 3 of the 4 wires from each resistor and keep the resistor inline with one colour, IE inline with the pink wire on one channel and the orange wire on the other, and directly connect the other pair, brown to brown and grey to grey. You can see the way I did it below. (All of this assumes my harness was assembled correctly from Hansshow, and if it was they have some work to do on making better parts).

IMG_0958.JPG


Now to completely disconnect the pillar speakers, cut the resistors out entirely (4 wires per resistor) then protect these wires with tape or heat shrink to keep them all separate, and keep them from shorting on anything else.
 
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Man. I've read through so many threads, and it seems all the current offerings for Tesla SR+ audio upgrade are subpar. A real shame, because I would pay decent money for more bass and a more full soundstage (it feels so front-focused in my 2021 SR+).

Is there really no decent solution for audio right now?
 
Man. I've read through so many threads, and it seems all the current offerings for Tesla SR+ audio upgrade are subpar. A real shame, because I would pay decent money for more bass and a more full soundstage (it feels so front-focused in my 2021 SR+).

Is there really no decent solution for audio right now?
This is the solution. It’s not that bad if you’re adventurous and the upgrade is very rewarding.
 
This is the solution. It’s not that bad if you’re adventurous and the upgrade is very rewarding.
Between what I’ve read from RWAudio and others, it seems like you’re adding speakers/bass at the cost of overall compromised audio.

I was dead set on getting the Hansshow Version A until I read all the poor audio and buggy experiences in here. Seems like plenty of people took their kit back out altogether.
 
Between what I’ve read from RWAudio and others, it seems like you’re adding speakers/bass at the cost of overall compromised audio.

I was dead set on getting the Hansshow Version A until I read all the poor audio and buggy experiences in here. Seems like plenty of people took their kit back out altogether.
What are your overall goals with the system? The Hansshow harness is useful for activating the door tweeters, or adding a subwoofer. The implementation of the pillar speakers is poor. If you’re capable of installing a harness like this I could guide you through the basic modifications to remove the undesirable traits.

My upgrades are outlined in other posts but I’ve replaced the dash and rear door speakers with scanspeak 10f midrange speakers, door woofers and tweeters with hertz MPK165.3 components and I’ve added a stock subwoofer enclosure with a kicker L7 8” and kicker 500.1 amplifier. The Hansshow harness definitely made these upgrades easier, and I was able to remove the undesirable effects.

My system as it stands is VERY good now.
 
Between what I’ve read from RWAudio and others, it seems like you’re adding speakers/bass at the cost of overall compromised audio.

I was dead set on getting the Hansshow Version A until I read all the poor audio and buggy experiences in here. Seems like plenty of people took their kit back out altogether.

I hear you. That’s just because the harness is a theoretical hack. But if you can do the tricks that he is posting, it will greatly improve the sound without distortion. This harness is a great investment, but you will need to put in some work to make it work the way you want it to.

I just redid the wiring in series like @rwdaudio posted and it worked like a charm. Top A Pillar speakers are pretty much mute and the door tweeters are singing. Must better staging. Honestly I feel like there’s less distortion with the same amount of fullness in the front than it was before. Huge thank you again @rwdaudio! how loud do you listen to your music? 1/2 volume? 3/4?
 
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Which way did you wire them: in phase or out of phase? I played around with a phase tester app the when I added the harness to my lasucar but got confusing results.

Rwaudio: it looks like you wired them out of phase. Correct?
 
Which way did you wire them: in phase or out of phase? I played around with a phase tester app the when I added the harness to my lasucar but got confusing results.

Rwaudio: it looks like you wired them out of phase. Correct?
I did wire them out of phase. In the premium system these are used for immersive sound and probably have significant signal processing behind them. An old trick before fancy processors etc was to wire the rears out of phase and at a lower level to provide ambiance vs play the same signal as the fronts.

If they are on they are barely on. However I recently listened to a premium system and when turning on the immersive sound the pillar speakers are barely playing anything, and you can only tell they are playing by toggling on/off immersive sound.
 
An old trick before fancy processors etc was to wire the rears out of phase and at a lower level to provide ambiance vs play the same signal as the fronts.
Interesting. Learn something new every day.

Good point about the premium system. I have a friend with a y and I don't think I noticed them in there. With my old car and original diy harness, they were very noticeable.

I wasn't planning on ordering the harness for this car but now you guys have got me curious... 😀
 
What are your overall goals with the system? The Hansshow harness is useful for activating the door tweeters, or adding a subwoofer. The implementation of the pillar speakers is poor. If you’re capable of installing a harness like this I could guide you through the basic modifications to remove the undesirable traits.

My upgrades are outlined in other posts but I’ve replaced the dash and rear door speakers with scanspeak 10f midrange speakers, door woofers and tweeters with hertz MPK165.3 components and I’ve added a stock subwoofer enclosure with a kicker L7 8” and kicker 500.1 amplifier. The Hansshow harness definitely made these upgrades easier, and I was able to remove the undesirable effects.

My system as it stands is VERY good now.

Yeah honestly if you could write up a guide on achieving what you did, that would be incredible.

The front focused staging is really difficult for me to get over. Makes me regret not splurging on the higher trim.
 
I guess I didn’t answer the question haha

Ideally I’d like to activate all the speakers and add a subwoofer. The bass seems a little lacking.
Thats pretty much what I wanted. I did want to activate all speakers, but after doing so, there was a lot of distortion with the music and volume I like to listen to. Plus the top A-pillar speakers was awkward for me. I followed his wiring to add left and right Sub out AND redid the wiring for the A-Pillar speakers in RWDAudio's #103 post (10 posts above this one). If you want to keep the A-Pillar tweeters on, then you can just add the sub out in the same post and not mess with the A-pillar tweeters.
 
Thanks for the heads up! I think I've reread this thread enough times to feel confident approaching this upgrade. My main concern was grabbing sub-out, but I think the harness actually helps quite a bit in that regard. I got the same NVX Subwoofer kit, and if nothing else works except for that, I'd be totally content haha
 
Thanks for the heads up! I think I've reread this thread enough times to feel confident approaching this upgrade. My main concern was grabbing sub-out, but I think the harness actually helps quite a bit in that regard. I got the same NVX Subwoofer kit, and if nothing else works except for that, I'd be totally content haha
Yeah, I have that sub. It will work perfectly. But once you hear the bass, you’re going to want to hack it. It’s a rabbit hole.
 
You've piqued my interest. What do you mean by hack it? What further mods have you done haha

Sorry meant you will want to hack the harness. But the whole stereo game is a rabbit hole. Upgrade to more speakers, but the bass is lacking. Upgrade the bass, the treble is lacking. Upgrade the treble, the mids/vocals are lacking. Upgrade the mids, now the car rattles too much. Etc. hahaha I did the nvx sub combo. Upgraded my front dash speakers to infinity. Now I want some components to go in the doors. It’s endless!
 
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Sorry meant you will want to hack the harness. But the whole stereo game is a rabbit hole. Upgrade to more speakers, but the bass is lacking. Upgrade the bass, the treble is lacking. Upgrade the treble, the mids/vocals are lacking. Upgrade the mids, now the car rattles too much. Etc. hahaha I did the nvx sub combo. Upgraded my front dash speakers to infinity. Now I want some components to go in the doors. It’s endless!
You said it right! I’m finally finished replacing all the speakers and adding a sub and while it sounds fantastic, it has me wondering what would be possible with a DSP amp, endless is an understatement.
 
Yeah I have a feeling that once I install the harness + the nvx sub, I'm probably going to find something else lacking. Down the rabbit hole I go.

(that being said, it honestly seems like the stock Model 3 speakers are pretty good outside of lows)
 
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