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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install

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I just finished the install of the power tailgate v3 on my model 3 SR+ 2020. I also used the power connection behind the glovebox. At first I couldn't find it, but after reading this forum thread I tried again ;). It took me some time and a flashlight, but I was finally able to find it a bit higher up between the cables. It was a bit difficult for me to reach, but I managed to connect the power cable. I will try to upload a picture.
 
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Sorry, but remind me.... what are the differences between the V2 and V3 Hansshow liftgate kits?

I remembering reading about it somewhere but can't find it now. From what I can remember, some of the new features made me want to go with a V3 kit, but can't remember exactly what they were now.


Side note question - is there only one version of the Hansshow frunk kits available right now?
 
Sorry, but remind me.... what are the differences between the V2 and V3 Hansshow liftgate kits?

My guess is that they're functionally the same but differ in the 'trunk signal' connection.

In the video's of earlier versions you see people pulling a lot of wires through the black tubing to the lid. With V3 you only need to pull the wires for the button through the tubing and even that's optional.

But with V3 you have to connect the 'trunk signal' connector at a hard to reach spot under the trim of the trunk cover. There's a short video in this thread (march 30th) better explaining it than the Hansshow manual.
 
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Hello all,

Has anyone noticed any detrimental power draw on the 12v system whilst using this kit?

The control modules are meant to have a ‘sleep mode’, but if one puts their ear by the foot sensor, a high pitched whine can be heard, even whilst the car is asleep.

This also is supported by the fact that the foot sensor can be used to wake up a sleeping car.

Assuming Tesla’s 12v management system does its job and keeps topping up the 12v battery, nothing comes from free. So either there will be an increase in ‘vampire drain’, or the people with the kit might get to a car with a flat 12v, especially during these times with many cars sitting unused for weeks at a time.

Has anyone had any thoughts or first hand experience with this?


Cheers,
- Dickie
 
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Just recieved mine today, seems like there's some new changes from what I noticed on some install videos I've been watching.

Looks like solidering/crimping is required now. I am also not entirely sure what's the yellow plug is for it says 'handle plug'.
 

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Just recieved mine today, seems like there's some new changes from what I noticed on some install videos I've been watching.

Looks like solidering/crimping is required now. I am also not entirely sure what's the yellow plug is for it says 'handle plug'.

FYI, for those who may have the same question after watching countless videos. I am not sure if this is another revised version or not. Contacted William, seems that this cable is connected to the trunk where you fish the wires up, similar install as V2 except it should be easier to fish the wires now without those connectors head connected.

Wonder if they changed the install back to the trunk instead behind the rear panel due to the difficultly removing those trim panels for some people.
 
Interestingly there are no updated instructions on their website to reflect this.

It’s the same story with the Frunk V3 upgrade. There are no instructions on their website.

I reached out on WhatsApp and they were rather coy about what the upgrade actuslly does (for the Frunk). ‘It’s a secret’ was the most I got out of them.

It appears you have to purchase the kit before the instructions are revealed. Also you will need to purchase your own SD card to flash new software.


- Dickie
 
Electrified Garage over in NH made a great video of an exceptional installation process. No corners were cut and the way this guy did the install would be the way I'd like mine installed, as I'm OCD with things like this and making it as OEM an install as possible. Here's the video:


Somewhere in the comments, I read that the install cost is $450.00...a bit steep IMHO, but I might just have these guys do my install if I ever decide to order this.

--Cintoman
 
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Just recieved mine today, seems like there's some new changes from what I noticed on some install videos I've been watching.

Looks like solidering/crimping is required now. I am also not entirely sure what's the yellow plug is for it says 'handle plug'.

I got this same kit. The exposed wires get fished up into the trunk lid. This replaces the need to get to the connector under the rear shelf by the speakers. Way better IMO. There is a second harness with the same pigtails. Just use wire nuts to connect like colors, then wrap in electrical tape. (See blue arrow in attached pic)

This is known as the PRO(DIY) kit. New instructions here
 

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Hi I'm new to this forum and I'm in trouble with the installation too and I'm waiting for response from hansshow.
I got the newest Version too but it's a little bit different from the DIY pro installation guide.
I also prefer to route the cables in the trunk lid without connectors and connect them later.
In my kit there are plugs for the motor and the button and only one purple wire with a single pin for the trunk switch/handle.
But the main problem is with the foot sensor.
There is a plug attached but I don't know where to install it.
I didn't get a nice answer from hansshow yet, just a link to the old? Installation guide.
I don't want to cut any wires even if they are from the kit itself.
If they managed to add the correct plugs for each cable, why it's not possible for the foot sensor?

And there is a difference in the wiring harness too.
In the DIY pro guide there is a connector for the foot sensor and the Front CAN BUS connector is free and in my added guide and wiring harness in the kit there isn't a foot sensor connector but one for the Front CAN BUS that goes out of the Control Box right into it again.
It seens to make no sense to me but if it works I'm ok with that :)

I add some pictures I also send to the hansshow after sales service.
Maybe it's helpful for someone here or anyone has a good idea for the foot sensor.
I found a guide where the cables should be connected but I don't want to splice/solder any wires.
And I'm asking myself why they added a connector when I have to splice the single wires to the other wiring harness.

The two marked plugs are without function I think.
The one flat connector is from the foot sensor but I didn't know where to plug it in.
The wiring diagram with the connected CAN BUS plug is the added "new" one. IMG_20200430_181450.jpg IMG_20200430_181505.jpg IMG_20200430_181450.jpg IMG_20200430_181505.jpg IMG_20200430_181852.jpg IMG_20200430_182059.jpg IMG_20200501_023929.jpg
But I think it's an old version because the struts are looking like the old or other ones with the rubber outside.
I just have seen them in the other kit where you have to cut and splice the CAN BUS wire.
The last diagram how to connect the foot sensor I found on the Video from because Tesla I think.

What I like is that they improve their kit permanently.. Add the plugs in the trunk lid later and there are some Rubber seals on the strut cable as well.
So I didn't have to put the connector to the blue seal.

I hope I didn't write too much and we can figure it out and find a good way to install our kits.
And I removed almost every cover when I did my sound damping in the whole car and it's easy when you see a video or try it out carefully.
You don't have to be scared.
I have more respect from the bumper cover when I read here that the alignment could change.

Thank you for your help and support