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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install

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Drilling seems to be best for cable routing but the downside is drilling. I haven't received my power trunk kit yet but I don't plan to drill - makes me uneasy. If you're going that route it would be better to put some paint on the bare metal surface of the hole and after it dries, add a rubber grommet and maybe some silicone where the grommet meets the metal surface.
 
This post is to thank all the folks that contributed to this thread over the past several months – A BIG THANK YOU! Your free sharing of thoughts, ideas and experiences, made my installation of the Hansshow trunk powerlift (relatively) easy and stress-free! I have tried to summarize my experience with the install and hope it will help others that plan to tackle this project!

I direct ordered the kit from Hansshow using a discount code from Model3Man to knock $75 off the price. I did not order the foot switch. The elapsed time from order to delivery was approximately 12 days. They ship out of a warehouse in Singapore using DHL. There was total silence from Hansshow after receiving the order confirmation via email. Multiple WhatsApp nudges later, they finally sent me the tracking number via WA.

It was Version 3 kit, which is a great improvement over what I have seen in several YouTube videos. It included a wire fishing tool, a trim removal tool, and the wires to trunk latch switches were left cut to ease the movement of the wires through the rubber tubing. I also removed the plug for the lid actuator switch to make things easier (see YouTube videos). Pulling the wire harnesses through the rubber hose was so very easy. Used glass cleaner spray can to lubricate the wires (does not leave residue after drying). It worked extremely well! You will have to buy some solder seal wire connectors from Amazon. They work well with a BBQ gas lighter torch.

The YouTube videos that I particularly liked and utilized were posted by Model3Man, ElectrifiedGarage and BecauseTesla. Thanks guys!

I avoided removing the bumper to route the strut cables and instead used the hole behind the tail light fixtures (after making a drip loop). Worked well, easy too, and tested with a garden hose to make sure no water would enter the trunk.

Attached the ground wire on the left side (opposite subwoofer side), as it was easy to get too and less cluttered. The 12V+ line was routed behind the right trunk trim and under the rear seat cushion. There is a 12V+ post that’s easy to access underneath (see ElectrifiedGarage video).

The instructions that come with the kit are really sad. Even the wiring diagrams were incorrect – they were for an earlier version of this kit. Fortunately, someone posted the correct diagrams on this thread – it was INVALUABLE! Thanks.

It took me about 6 hours to do the total install and clean up. It could have been a lot faster, but was slowed down by my aborted attempt to route the power strut cables behind the bumper. Also, reinstalling some of the trim took me longer than expected.

If you are planning to install this kit, I strongly suggest you watch several videos on YouTube and read all 6 pages of this thread. Become familiar with the multiplicity of wire routing options, and become comfortable with it before you embark on this install journey.

Bottom Line: The install went without a hitch. The power lift works as advertised and I LOVE IT!! Bonus – if you use the STATS app on your iPhone and own an iWatch, you will be able to control the trunk lid from you watch using SIRI!! How cool is that!
 
Drilling seems to be best for cable routing but the downside is drilling. I haven't received my power trunk kit yet but I don't plan to drill - makes me uneasy. If you're going that route it would be better to put some paint on the bare metal surface of the hole and after it dries, add a rubber grommet and maybe some silicone where the grommet meets the metal surface.

I plan on routing the cables through the bumper described in this video to avoid drilling into metal.

 
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This post is to thank all the folks that contributed to this thread over the past several months – A BIG THANK YOU! Your free sharing of thoughts, ideas and experiences, made my installation of the Hansshow trunk powerlift (relatively) easy and stress-free! I have tried to summarize my experience with the install and hope it will help others that plan to tackle this project!

I direct ordered the kit from Hansshow using a discount code from Model3Man to knock $75 off the price. I did not order the foot switch. The elapsed time from order to delivery was approximately 12 days. They ship out of a warehouse in Singapore using DHL. There was total silence from Hansshow after receiving the order confirmation via email. Multiple WhatsApp nudges later, they finally sent me the tracking number via WA.

It was Version 3 kit, which is a great improvement over what I have seen in several YouTube videos. It included a wire fishing tool, a trim removal tool, and the wires to trunk latch switches were left cut to ease the movement of the wires through the rubber tubing. I also removed the plug for the lid actuator switch to make things easier (see YouTube videos). Pulling the wire harnesses through the rubber hose was so very easy. Used glass cleaner spray can to lubricate the wires (does not leave residue after drying). It worked extremely well! You will have to buy some solder seal wire connectors from Amazon. They work well with a BBQ gas lighter torch.

The YouTube videos that I particularly liked and utilized were posted by Model3Man, ElectrifiedGarage and BecauseTesla. Thanks guys!

I avoided removing the bumper to route the strut cables and instead used the hole behind the tail light fixtures (after making a drip loop). Worked well, easy too, and tested with a garden hose to make sure no water would enter the trunk.

Attached the ground wire on the left side (opposite subwoofer side), as it was easy to get too and less cluttered. The 12V+ line was routed behind the right trunk trim and under the rear seat cushion. There is a 12V+ post that’s easy to access underneath (see ElectrifiedGarage video).

The instructions that come with the kit are really sad. Even the wiring diagrams were incorrect – they were for an earlier version of this kit. Fortunately, someone posted the correct diagrams on this thread – it was INVALUABLE! Thanks.

It took me about 6 hours to do the total install and clean up. It could have been a lot faster, but was slowed down by my aborted attempt to route the power strut cables behind the bumper. Also, reinstalling some of the trim took me longer than expected.

If you are planning to install this kit, I strongly suggest you watch several videos on YouTube and read all 6 pages of this thread. Become familiar with the multiplicity of wire routing options, and become comfortable with it before you embark on this install journey.

Bottom Line: The install went without a hitch. The power lift works as advertised and I LOVE IT!! Bonus – if you use the STATS app on your iPhone and own an iWatch, you will be able to control the trunk lid from you watch using SIRI!! How cool is that!

Awesome for the details post order. I just ordered myself two days ago. You gave me an idea of the time line. Thx!
 
I installed the V3 trunk last week. Routed the wires between the bumper and body. Was happy I didn't have to remove the bumper.

IMG_0723.jpg IMG_0731.jpg IMG_0736.jpg IMG_0737.jpg
 
I have just now successfully installed the Hansshow Powered trunk liftgate with foot sensor to my Tesla M3 SR+. Took 9.5 hours of which half the time was spent finding answers/suggestions on YouTube videos. The supplied instructions that came with the kit were No Help and completely contrary to the video Hansshow recommended! However, installing by myself went fairly easy, no insurmountable, challenging problems, including removing the bumper TWICE. (After I reinstalled the bumper, I then noticed undernear a small 1/4" gap; so took off the bumper again to inspect. Turns out it was assembled with gap at the factory and had nothing to do with my work). Incidentally a Local installer wanted $495 for doing the installation - $215 for just removing bumper for foot sensor. Rather expensive for work you can easily do yourself. I did break 3 white clips when removing trunk lid panel, but that's all. Think Lady Luck, and not Murphy, was on my side.


QUESTION: Is it advisable or necessary to lubricate the power struts? Reason I ask is that when I initially applied power, the tailgate would lower to approx 12 inches of the bottom and then stop! The Buzzer would give two beeps indicating it was Closed, but in fact it was Not. I wrote Hansshow, with whom I had several earlier conversations on WhatsApp, but no reply on this problem. Left alone, I then adjusted the "force" of the return (the process using Reset button) but this did not help. I then adjusted the "Speed" of travel. When I got to level 4, then it worked properly. Ironically the higher force level 5 did not work.


So I have left it at level "4" and all seems OK for now. But I'm wondering if there is an adjustment for downward travel distance (not the opening height adjustment ). Or perhaps the struts need to be lubricated. Is this a possibility? The other thought is that the struts are new and perhaps "stiff" and will loosen up as they are used. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
I have just now successfully installed the Hansshow Powered trunk liftgate with foot sensor to my Tesla M3 SR+. Took 9.5 hours of which half the time was spent finding answers/suggestions on YouTube videos. The supplied instructions that came with the kit were No Help and completely contrary to the video Hansshow recommended! However, installing by myself went fairly easy, no insurmountable, challenging problems, including removing the bumper TWICE. (After I reinstalled the bumper, I then noticed undernear a small 1/4" gap; so took off the bumper again to inspect. Turns out it was assembled with gap at the factory and had nothing to do with my work). Incidentally a Local installer wanted $495 for doing the installation - $215 for just removing bumper for foot sensor. Rather expensive for work you can easily do yourself. I did break 3 white clips when removing trunk lid panel, but that's all. Think Lady Luck, and not Murphy, was on my side.


QUESTION: Is it advisable or necessary to lubricate the power struts? Reason I ask is that when I initially applied power, the tailgate would lower to approx 12 inches of the bottom and then stop! The Buzzer would give two beeps indicating it was Closed, but in fact it was Not. I wrote Hansshow, with whom I had several earlier conversations on WhatsApp, but no reply on this problem. Left alone, I then adjusted the "force" of the return (the process using Reset button) but this did not help. I then adjusted the "Speed" of travel. When I got to level 4, then it worked properly. Ironically the higher force level 5 did not work.


So I have left it at level "4" and all seems OK for now. But I'm wondering if there is an adjustment for downward travel distance (not the opening height adjustment ). Or perhaps the struts need to be lubricated. Is this a possibility? The other thought is that the struts are new and perhaps "stiff" and will loosen up as they are used. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Unfortunately, it seems that they disabled the "force" adjustment functionality on these liftgates and I am not sure why they did that. Mine was pretty much the same I only way I can get my to latch on was at the max speed but I did not like that. I even sent a video to hansshow showing all speed and only max speed will latch on and they just told me to leave at that... I didn't like it but luckily I was able to find a video that had a "special" software update that includes the "force" adjustment setting (refer to HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install Page 5). After installing that update i was able to get mine latched on at Speed 2. As always DISCLAIMER: Please update at your own RISK.
 
Thanks for the info. So now I know why changing the Force did not work. This feature has apparently been eliminated . Right now mine is working fine, the force is not excessive but I am concerned about the future as parts "wear in". I assume that I have to request the software update from Hansshow unless there is another source. Thanks again for your suggestions and info.