@simbafish,
What size bolts and nuts did you use to fasten the Trunk Foot Sensor module to the aero shield?
Ski
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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install
- Thread starter dendenyc
- Start date
@simbafish,
What size bolts and nuts did you use to fasten the Trunk Foot Sensor module to the aero shield?
Ski
I used double sided tape, hopefully it is going to hold but I didn't want to drill any holes at the bottom of the bumper.
Cintoman
Member
I was planning on running my strut wires thru the same grommets instead of how Electrified Garage drilled into the left side of the car. However, I still would have thought you'd have to at least partially, remove the rear bumper cover to get to those grommets. However, since I'm installing the foot sensor, I think I'll still have to remove my rear bumper cover.
--Cintoman
Well....that’s just it. I did the same with just the double sided 3M not wanting to drill, and now I believe it’s come loose due to the moisture water ingress over time and is now rattling around in there. I’m dreading dropping the bumper now to fix/reinstall it again. So heads up to all. That’s the general underside area of the rattle but also not sure its not the wind/slipstream flapping wheel well liners (They seem secure) or under tray or something loose under the rear. I’ve got to trouble shoot.
Ski
Last edited:
Hello guys. Awesome thread to follow! I just install the hansshow trunk kit with foot sensor yesterday.
It works great! However two issues I need to troubleshoot and hope someone can give me some pointers.
1. The foot sensor is plugged in and secured in place, however, it is not working.
2. After installing the trunk kit and tapping the power from the rear passenger seat, the vehicle is showing a message "Vehicle is consume more energy while idle". Anyone else got that message?
I didn't see anyone online had this error message show up in their videos.
It works great! However two issues I need to troubleshoot and hope someone can give me some pointers.
1. The foot sensor is plugged in and secured in place, however, it is not working.
2. After installing the trunk kit and tapping the power from the rear passenger seat, the vehicle is showing a message "Vehicle is consume more energy while idle". Anyone else got that message?
I didn't see anyone online had this error message show up in their videos.
For 1) did you test out the sensor before mounting it in place?
2) I tapped it at the rear passenger seat and I didn't have any issues like that.
I had this same issue. You didn't disconnect the main battery. Watch this video, you need to remove the negative terminal on 12 volt, and disconnect the main battery under the rear passenger seat which will remove all power from the car, make sure you have doors open and the frunk. This will reboot the car and you should be good to go.
I had this issue as well. What you need to do is open the trunk and stick a screw driver in the latch, to cause the latch to close while the trunk is open. Then hold the button on the control box until it beeps at least 3 times. This adjusts the strength. See the end of this video on how to adjust the various settings.
yerEVan
Active Member
1. Try a really fast kick motion near or directly under the where you put the sensor.
There technically was never a v2, I assume Hanshow just leapfrogged to v3 because their competitor came out with a v2 of their lift gate. V1 and v3 are essentially the same however the wiring is different. I have both cables and V1 wiring was a bit harder to install and V1 didnt give you the option to close trunk via the touchscreen or app. Stick with v2, its the better product...its easily identified if you have a STAT wire included in your package.
Electrified Garage still has the best install video out there for V2
I agree, this was the best video but I would note that when he is powering down the car, he did not completely remove the plug on the main battery but he did hear the clunk that show that it is disengaged. I did the same thing, not pulling the plug, but unfortunately the main was not disengaged so I ended up with the "Vehicle is consume more energy while idle" error which prevents the car from fully going to sleep, so the error does not clear. I was able to resolve this by, disconnecting the 12 volt and pulling the plug on the main in the back seat. Once I reattached them, the car fully rebooted and cleared the error.
Tried the closing strength setting as shown in the video and now the unit is non responsive! Tried disconnecting power to the unit but both green and red lights are on and unit seems bricked.
apchoo
Member
I ordered the Hansshow M3 power trunk a week ago---when I got it yesterday it was a V4 with the CANBUS connector.
The included installation manual is really pathetic, there's no way a DIY novice like me can follow those instructions. I've already watched videos by frugal tesla guy, electrified garage, i1tesla and model3man multiple times, but none were for V4. Besides the CANBUS connector, there are other differences between the V4 and V3 wires. For example, the V4 plugs to the rear trunk lights are different to the V3 ones I see in the videos. I don't know if the Australian RHD M3 uses different connectors to the LHD M3, I guess I'll find out when I start poking around the back.
Hansshow have not updated their M3 power tailgate installation guide on their website for V4
. They now sell a V1/V2/V3 to V4 upgrade kit but I could not find any upgrade instructions to complement the V3 videos.I'm keen to do the installation myself but will take my time to understand where every wire and plug go before I take the plunge. Over the next couple of weekends I plan to remove various trims around the back to see where each Hansshow component go. My biggest concern is removing the rear bumper
... that would be something I wouldn't attempt more than once.I ordered the Hansshow M3 power trunk a week ago---when I got it yesterday it was a V4 with the CANBUS connector.
The included installation manual is really pathetic, there's no way a DIY novice like me can follow those instructions. I've already watched videos by frugal tesla guy, electrified garage, i1tesla and model3man multiple times, but none were for V4. Besides the CANBUS connector, there are other differences between the V4 and V3 wires. For example, the V4 plugs to the rear trunk lights are different to the V3 ones I see in the videos. I don't know if the Australian RHD M3 uses different connectors to the LHD M3, I guess I'll find out when I start poking around the back.
Hansshow have not updated their M3 power tailgate installation guide on their website for V4
I'm keen to do the installation myself but will take my time to understand where every wire and plug go before I take the plunge. Over the next couple of weekends I plan to remove various trims around the back to see where each Hansshow component go. My biggest concern is removing the rear bumper
1. Can you take a photo to the canbus connector.
2. I think is more wire to pass along with wire from button.
I am totally confused. Last month I purchased V3 and stayed away from systems connecting to the CAN buss because I read in forums at least two dyi installers were concerned about voiding the Tesla Warranty. This warranty issue was further reiterated by Cici (of Hansshow Guangzhou China) on May 18th. She wrote :
“Hi Sir. This is Cici, I got your email that you need our automatic trunk liftgate for your Model 3
Me: I read about Tesla warranty issues if the powered lift gate is installed. One major contributor on YouTube with excellent installation videos had to remove his power lift gate because of a problem with the Tesla warranty.
Cici: That must not our products. Our tailgate is plug and pay version. Not need to connect CAN bus. Not destruction for the the car. Tesla offer 's tailgate need to connect CAN bus which bus easy to broke the car.”
So now they are reversing their concern and caution, they are connecting to the CAN buss? They mention false triggering with prior versions (V3 and before) . Has anyone experienced this? I read about a concern that something on the road might trigger the liftgate foot sensor but my understanding was that if the car was in motion, the liftgate could not be released accidentally. Is this correct?
“Hi Sir. This is Cici, I got your email that you need our automatic trunk liftgate for your Model 3
Me: I read about Tesla warranty issues if the powered lift gate is installed. One major contributor on YouTube with excellent installation videos had to remove his power lift gate because of a problem with the Tesla warranty.
Cici: That must not our products. Our tailgate is plug and pay version. Not need to connect CAN bus. Not destruction for the the car. Tesla offer 's tailgate need to connect CAN bus which bus easy to broke the car.”
So now they are reversing their concern and caution, they are connecting to the CAN buss? They mention false triggering with prior versions (V3 and before) . Has anyone experienced this? I read about a concern that something on the road might trigger the liftgate foot sensor but my understanding was that if the car was in motion, the liftgate could not be released accidentally. Is this correct?
I also received v4 today. I queried the CAN bus connector and was told it improves the foot sensor - which I don’t have. I’m tempted to just not install it and see if it works!
As for @apchoo I’m also not 100% sure on the rear trunk light connections...
I’m installing it this Saturday so I’ll let you know how it goes...
As for @apchoo I’m also not 100% sure on the rear trunk light connections...
I’m installing it this Saturday so I’ll let you know how it goes...