Hansshow V5 Power Frunk Issue (2022)

[Gogogadgetone]

I recently installed the V5 Power Frunk for my 2022 Model Y Performance. I am running into an issue where the control box beeps when I am not trying to use the power Frunk. The box will beep every few seconds and while this is happening, if I try to open the Frunk, it unlatches but doesn’t open automatically. (If I close the Frunk and try again, it will then open all the way up on this second try)

Through some initial testing, the control box appears to start beeping when I run the AC to cool the car down remotely. The beeping only occurs when the Frunk is shut. It may also be helpful to point out that the control box beeps one time, when I open the doors for the first time, but this does not hinder the auto Frunk.

I have reached out to Hannshow Auto and they replaced the control box, but this did not fix the issue. They think it might be a signal issue with the new 2022 model Y, but are looking into it.

Has anyone experienced this?

 

[Mujenpwr]

Have you checked with the frunk liner in the frunk? I just installed mine on 2022 MYP. I noticed that the front of the hood was lining up with the front bumper but the sides were 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the front fenders; specially behind the headlights. I kept adjusting the latch but that wasn't helping. I couldn't figure out why middle of the hood was sagging until I realized that the hood had paddings to rest on the liners. I cleaned up enough to put the liner back in and tested the frunk. Now, the gap has disappeared.

Yep I did try it with the liner installed it still stays down too far. Thanks for the suggestion. I removed everything and put it back in the box. It’s up on a shelf. If anyone is interested in it I will likely sell it.

 

[Rickl138]

Just finished install. got it to work. It’s pulling hood down too far when closed. Do you move the Hansshow bracket down towards ground? I have it pulled all the way up towards hood

Before you moved the frunk latch, you were supposed to have outlined the placement with a sharpie so that you could reposition it to the same location(height) when tightening the bolts.

 

[Mujenpwr]

Before you moved the frunk latch, you were supposed to have outlined the placement with a sharpie so that you could reposition it to the same location(height) when tightening the bolts.

Yep I did that with a silver sharpie. Still pulled it down too far.

 

[maemae]

My husband installed the Hansshow Frunk in our 2022 Model X yesterday. He could not get it to operate, and after installing the emergency pull cord, he shut the frunk. Now, it won't open and the emergency cord will not work. If anyone knows of any way to get the frunk to open, please let us know. We can't drive the car over 15 MPH because it shows that there is an error with the frunk sensor. So the car is unusable until we get Tesla Mobile service in 2 weeks. If anyone knows a way to get in the frunk, please reply.

 

[mstatkus]

My husband installed the Hansshow Frunk in our 2022 Model X yesterday. He could not get it to operate, and after installing the emergency pull cord, he shut the frunk. Now, it won't open and the emergency cord will not work. If anyone knows of any way to get the frunk to open, please let us know. We can't drive the car over 15 MPH because it shows that there is an error with the frunk sensor. So the car is unusable until we get Tesla Mobile service in 2 weeks. If anyone knows a way to get in the frunk, please reply.

Hannshow responds quick on WhatsApp.
There are two actuators primary/secondary. One stops the hood from opening which is most likely why your car thinks the hood is popped and reducing your speed. That sounds to me like it didn’t get pulled down enough. You may be able to trigger that by pushing down on the frunk and hitting open on your phone to get it all to release. (guess on my part, but thats a step I’d take care not to dent the hood of course).
The X may be different than the Y, but I was looking thru my pictures and there is a switch that gets pressed down at the Tesla level so it knows the frunk is closed. That pressure could allow you to possibly get the actuator to move if its just under too much tension.

Other ideas -
Pulling the release or hitting open via screen/app - if its not making a noise that would puzzle me a bit. Even when the hood is open if I hit “open“ in the car it would trigger the close and also move the actuator. So pulling the release cord is either a sign we need to push the frunk down a little to remove tension possibly or we have some other misalignment. Someone could spot the car screen if pushing the hood down triggers the closed animation or maybe could be spotted from phone app.

 

[maemae]

Hannshow responds quick on WhatsApp.
There are two actuators primary/secondary. One stops the hood from opening which is most likely why your car thinks the hood is popped and reducing your speed. That sounds to me like it didn’t get pulled down enough. You may be able to trigger that by pushing down on the frunk and hitting open on your phone to get it all to release. (guess on my part, but thats a step I’d take care not to dent the hood of course).
The X may be different than the Y, but I was looking thru my pictures and there is a switch that gets pressed down at the Tesla level so it knows the frunk is closed. That pressure could allow you to possibly get the actuator to move if its just under too much tension.

Other ideas -
Pulling the release or hitting open via screen/app - if its not making a noise that would puzzle me a bit. Even when the hood is open if I hit “open“ in the car it would trigger the close and also move the actuator. So pulling the release cord is either a sign we need to push the frunk down a little to remove tension possibly or we have some other misalignment. Someone could spot the car screen if pushing the hood down triggers the closed animation or maybe could be spotted from phone app.

Thank you for your reply. We took it to an auto body shop and they opened the trunk in a few minutes. Everything seems to be hooked up properly, but the struts are not operating at all. The frunk opener is operating as it did before from the app, but the struts are still not working to open and close. They don't make any noise, or appear to have any power. Do you have any ideas on how to make this work?

 

[mstatkus]

Thank you for your reply. We took it to an auto body shop and they opened the trunk in a few minutes. Everything seems to be hooked up properly, but the struts are not operating at all. The frunk opener is operating as it did before from the app, but the struts are still not working to open and close. They don't make any noise, or appear to have any power. Do you have any ideas on how to make this work?

I think on mine it is this pressure switch that is part of hannshows bracket

 

[Jdmoto]

Thank you for your reply. We took it to an auto body shop and they opened the trunk in a few minutes. Everything seems to be hooked up properly, but the struts are not operating at all. The frunk opener is operating as it did before from the app, but the struts are still not working to open and close. They don't make any noise, or appear to have any power. Do you have any ideas on how to make this work?

If you feel like there's no power to struts, then I suggest removing the power to the main module. wait 5 mins. and then install the power again. this should beep or show lights flashing. Make sure the struts have freedom to move up and down, meaning not seized or locked. finally if you have power to the module but still not moving I'd contact Hansshow for further assistance.

 

[TwiztOG43]

I would reach out to hanshow asap. That is def. not right. Maybe reset the frunk module?

here is the video. Quick Share

I have had my V5 installed for about 5 months without any real issues other than the random beeping.

After updating to 2022.36.2 I started getting the grinding noise as well. No issues closing or opening the Frunk.

have you resolved this? And how do you reset the control module?

 

[Jdmoto]

I have had my V5 installed for about 5 months without any real issues other than the random beeping.

After updating to 2022.36.2 I started getting the grinding noise as well. No issues closing or opening the Frunk.

have you resolved this? And how do you reset the control module?

What part is grinding? I don't have Hanshow model. I Have the Evoffer but design is similar and the state block diagram is the similar also.

If you have grinding noise locate where and see if there's contamination build up.

 

[TwiztOG43]

Seems like it’s the suction motor

 

[TwiztOG43]

was able to contact Hansshow, the suction lock is failing, so they’re send a replacement suction lock and control module just to be sure.

 

[axistech]

Update: Hansshow sent me an update for my control box. I followed the instructions using an SD card. It did fix the beeping issue, but I’m still having an issue where the Frunk will only unlatch if I have the AC running. So as I expected, the beeping is just a secondary symptom to an underlying issue.

It feels like the signal is getting blocked or there isn’t enough power being directed to the Frunk while the AC is blasting.

Hey Pete. I am having a similar problem with my power frunk control module beeping constantly. I am wondering if you can share the update process as well as the file Hanshow sent you? I currently have a 2021 MYLR.

 

[maemae]

If you feel like there's no power to struts, then I suggest removing the power to the main module. wait 5 mins. and then install the power again. this should beep or show lights flashing. Make sure the struts have freedom to move up and down, meaning not seized or locked. finally if you have power to the module but still not moving I'd contact Hansshow for further assistance.

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Just got off of another Hansshow WhatApp call. After installing the new driver, the Frunk Opener still doesn't work. The struts don't appear to have any power, though the driver box is working. After a lot of troubleshooting with the voltage meter, Hansshow claims that the original lock plug is not getting enough voltage. It reads .91V and HS says it should be getting 5V. They claim that is the reason it doesn't work. They said to take the car to Tesla and tell them it isn't working and after they fix the original lock plug, then it will work. We asked for a refund and they offered 80% after we return it (Have no idea how much it will be to return it). My husband wants a 100% refund, but they are refusing, saying it is the fault of the original lock plug not having enough voltage. Anyone have any thoughts on this? This has been a very long frustrating process. The technician has a translator and the communication is very difficult.

 

[tlr1000]

@maemae, is it too late to make a claim from your credit card? Unfortunate situation. Without any knowledge of the 'lock plug' is it easy to replace? If so, finding another owner and temporary swapping for testing would pin down the situation. Unfortunately, warranty from Tesla might not happen unless the kit was completely removed assuring Tesla it is not related to the kit itself.

 

[Icenks]

Update: OCD kicked in and I wanted to see what was up inside the plastic since it looked like the housing lost some ABS by where the cable gear was. Water did indeed get in. Rust here and there. Seized up the motor. I lubricated/deep-creep and let it sit. Elaborated all the water out. Put power to it and the motor started to spin. Did further cleaning just to get it functional and put it back together. I put RTV over the hole in the plastic housing. Tested and now it pulls the hood down again. Bit of a bummer but hopefully they’ll get back to me on a new suction motor. I imagine this one is still prone to some rust but least its clear what happened.

Just wondering. After you opened up the latch motor, did you find out how the emergency release work? Does it pull on a the drive gear and decouple the drive gear from the slave gear?

 

[mstatkus]

The latch motor is straight motor to gear which pulls a cable or releases it. So +/- turns it one way and -/+ another. Emergency release just pulls the latch (factory release), but if the motor was stuck down it may be tricky to get enough slack. I was only able to replicate this when testing the motor and my hood was open. I was manually insuring it was working correctly after putting it back together. When I see the suction motor pull mine down it always releases slightly after letting the hood up up a little. I think thats the slack needed to let the emergency release work.

 

[Icenks]

The latch motor is straight motor to gear which pulls a cable or releases it. So +/- turns it one way and -/+ another. Emergency release just pulls the latch (factory release), but if the motor was stuck down it may be tricky to get enough slack. I was only able to replicate this when testing the motor and my hood was open. I was manually insuring it was working correctly after putting it back together. When I see the suction motor pull mine down it always releases slightly after letting the hood up up a little. I think thats the slack needed to let the emergency release work.

Thanks for the reply.
There’s no emergency release at the latch motor?

 

[mstatkus]

Thanks for the reply.
There’s no emergency release at the latch motor?

I believe it would be a sign the suction motor was out of alignment if it pulled it down too far and didn’t release a little at the end for the factory / emergency release to let go. In this situation I would think putting light pressure down on the hood while pulling the release may give it some room to pop. I only replicated this while the hood was up by accident.

Mine basically got a hole in he housing above the gear assembly. So when I went to close mine the motor was water logged and rusted. Still opened the hood, but couldn’t pull the hood shut. The only inputs to that assembly is the +/- connection. The cable is managed by the motor. I used alligator clips to test the motor w/ 12V. Imagine the control module tells it to pull the hood down or release based on their hood latch sensor or the command from the car.

 

[Icenks]

Thanks. I just realized the latch motor I got is totally different from yours. There’s an emergency release coming out of the motor but I don’t know if it’s reliable. Like you said. If the motor pulled the latch shut and doesnt release, the frunk lid would be stuck there.