Good info here about the tiny trunk harness wires and that they are easy to break! I have to pass two decently large cables through that boot right after I get the car, so I’ll pay extra attention to not stressing the OEM wires.Given the kit has no interaction with the cameras at all I would imagine one of the wires that is in the loom that goes up into the trunk has been severed. It’s a tight fit in there to pull the wires for the kit up, and the existing wires that are there are very thin (24awg).
That being said if even recent sentry/dashcam doesn’t show it then it would suggest it’s been broken for a while? Recordings don’t need the cameras to be present to work, of course.
Sorry to say that this sounds like an installation fail
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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
smatthew
Active Member
To successfully fish wires you really need to remove the folded rubber piece and straighten it out. Both ends come free from the vehicle.
In addition to unplugging the rubber ends of that conduit, use proper task-specific lube, and even better undo the two oem zip-tie type loops (there is a way to pick them apart but I can't find the video showing this). Doing all three things will ensure the easiest experience while minimizing chances of damaging other wiring already there.
Has anyone installed the TeslaOffer/EVOffer trunk kit power wire directly to the battery, going through the rubber grommet on the passenger (US) side of the car?
I have my trunk kit connected to the 12v under the rear seats, which is where the Hansshow kits are installed. I found out subsequently that this is wrong for Teslaoffer/EVOffer trunk kit, or at least it is on my car, because when the car wakes up maybe 50% of the time the trunk will spontaneously open as well (because, for whatever reason, the TeslaOffer/EVOffer kit will actuate the trunk when it receives power). From discussions with Raymond (who is brilliant) he said that basically the 12v under the rear seat is unreliable for constant power, because it can be disconnected on a whim. He suggested I rewire it to either VCRIGHT (right hand side of car) or to the battery.
I've looked at some options for wiring direct to the battery, which would be my preference because it means both my trunk and frunk kits can be disconnected at will without pulling trim, and it seems people either wire it in such a way where the wire goes outside of the car and then back in again, or through a rubber grommet under the passenger side that has two HV wires coming in.
This is the grommet in question, from a video where the guy is installing his power trunk kit (brand unknown):
Has anyone done this for their TeslaOffer kit? If so, did you push through the power wire with the spade already connected (and thereby having to make a larger hole in the grommet), or did you cut it off and recrimp a new one after you'd pulled the wire through?
I'm probably overthinking this to be honest, but I want to make sure I do a proper job of it and don't end up introducing a "leak" into the car with too big a hole, if that's even a possibility..
I have my trunk kit connected to the 12v under the rear seats, which is where the Hansshow kits are installed. I found out subsequently that this is wrong for Teslaoffer/EVOffer trunk kit, or at least it is on my car, because when the car wakes up maybe 50% of the time the trunk will spontaneously open as well (because, for whatever reason, the TeslaOffer/EVOffer kit will actuate the trunk when it receives power). From discussions with Raymond (who is brilliant) he said that basically the 12v under the rear seat is unreliable for constant power, because it can be disconnected on a whim. He suggested I rewire it to either VCRIGHT (right hand side of car) or to the battery.
I've looked at some options for wiring direct to the battery, which would be my preference because it means both my trunk and frunk kits can be disconnected at will without pulling trim, and it seems people either wire it in such a way where the wire goes outside of the car and then back in again, or through a rubber grommet under the passenger side that has two HV wires coming in.
This is the grommet in question, from a video where the guy is installing his power trunk kit (brand unknown):
Has anyone done this for their TeslaOffer kit? If so, did you push through the power wire with the spade already connected (and thereby having to make a larger hole in the grommet), or did you cut it off and recrimp a new one after you'd pulled the wire through?
I'm probably overthinking this to be honest, but I want to make sure I do a proper job of it and don't end up introducing a "leak" into the car with too big a hole, if that's even a possibility..
VCRight is a good spot for trunk power but it's not supereasy to attach unless you've done it a couple of times. If for whatever reason you need to disconnect power from VCRight, it's not a big deal as the panel is easy to access. Plus the 12v is connected using a bullet connector so removal of the power is simply getting behind panel and pulling the bullet connector apart. If you are committed to connecting to the front battery @Durzel, it will probably be an extra 5 minutes to cut and recrimp. Chances are there's little to no issue with enlarging the hole in the grommet but may as well go the more careful way. An ocd guy would probably cut, solder, heatshrink but that's not really necessary.
Thanks for taking the time to reply
I was originally planning to connect to VCRight and even bought a little stubby socket wrench especially for the job, but since the frunk is directly connected to the battery anyway I liked the idea of having them both connected there and also the ability to easily disconnect both if needed.
On my kit I have a metal spade connector, not a bullet connector, that pushes into a white plug which itself then plugs into another plug, if that makes sense, per the image below from the install guide:
I’d have to cut the spade off and recrimp another one (if I can work out what type it is)
I was originally planning to connect to VCRight and even bought a little stubby socket wrench especially for the job, but since the frunk is directly connected to the battery anyway I liked the idea of having them both connected there and also the ability to easily disconnect both if needed.
On my kit I have a metal spade connector, not a bullet connector, that pushes into a white plug which itself then plugs into another plug, if that makes sense, per the image below from the install guide:
I’d have to cut the spade off and recrimp another one (if I can work out what type it is)
Bumping this for a quick question.
Since fitting both TeslaOffer trunk (v2.5) and frunk (v3.1) units I have noticed that my car wakes up every other day to do what I can only assume is a 12v battery topup, since it wakes up spontaneously and stays awake for 2 hours each time, sometimes 3.
The below is a snapshot of the last 7 days. You can see that after a short period of driving and parking up for a few days, every 2nd day the car is waking itself up and staying online for 2 hours to charge the 12v (that's an assumption but can't see what else it could be doing for such a specific and consistent duration).
I don't drive the car much, so it's obvious when this is happening. At a guess I'd say it maybe takes 0.5 - 1% off the HV battery charge whenever this happens.
Before fitting the kits, it would basically sleep for a day or two, wake up and then go back to sleep again.
Here is another snapshot, taken a week or so before I fitted both kits:
The frunk kit is connected directly to the 12v battery, per instructions. The trunk is currently connected to the penthouse 12v. When speaking to TO they seeked to reassure me that the kits "shut down" when the car sleeps, but the evidence above suggests otherwise. Frankly I can't see how a kit connected directly to the 12v can "shut down" in the traditional sense.
Nothing else has been changed on the car (other than software updates), nothing else aftermarket is fitted to the car.
Is anyone seeing similar behaviour on their car, with TO kits fitted? Obviously you'd have to not be driving the car much to notice it I guess.
I don't know whether I should be overly concerned about the above. I haven't yet seen any "12v battery needs to be replaced" messages, but I can imagine it might not be long before I do. The car is a March 2020 car, incidentally, so well before you'd expect to have to replace one.
Am I overthinking this?
Since fitting both TeslaOffer trunk (v2.5) and frunk (v3.1) units I have noticed that my car wakes up every other day to do what I can only assume is a 12v battery topup, since it wakes up spontaneously and stays awake for 2 hours each time, sometimes 3.
The below is a snapshot of the last 7 days. You can see that after a short period of driving and parking up for a few days, every 2nd day the car is waking itself up and staying online for 2 hours to charge the 12v (that's an assumption but can't see what else it could be doing for such a specific and consistent duration).
I don't drive the car much, so it's obvious when this is happening. At a guess I'd say it maybe takes 0.5 - 1% off the HV battery charge whenever this happens.
Before fitting the kits, it would basically sleep for a day or two, wake up and then go back to sleep again.
Here is another snapshot, taken a week or so before I fitted both kits:
The frunk kit is connected directly to the 12v battery, per instructions. The trunk is currently connected to the penthouse 12v. When speaking to TO they seeked to reassure me that the kits "shut down" when the car sleeps, but the evidence above suggests otherwise. Frankly I can't see how a kit connected directly to the 12v can "shut down" in the traditional sense.
Nothing else has been changed on the car (other than software updates), nothing else aftermarket is fitted to the car.
Is anyone seeing similar behaviour on their car, with TO kits fitted? Obviously you'd have to not be driving the car much to notice it I guess.
I don't know whether I should be overly concerned about the above. I haven't yet seen any "12v battery needs to be replaced" messages, but I can imagine it might not be long before I do. The car is a March 2020 car, incidentally, so well before you'd expect to have to replace one.
Am I overthinking this?
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My car doesn’t behave any different to when I didn’t have the trunk kit, but I don’t have the frunk kit. Also, my car has never slept for more than 2 days at a time before waking up for whatever reason.
Have you tried disconnecting both kits and seeing what happens over a few days? The regular wake ups may have been part of recent software update and coincided with the kits being installed.
Yeah, I spoke to Raymond at TO (who is still brilliant) and he suggested pulling the power from the trunk kit to see what difference it would make to the car's sleeping patterns.
He said he's also going to do a video shortly that shows the power consumption of the kits at various points, and when they sleep, etc.
My car appears to wake up every day at the moment anyway, but goes back to sleep again shortly afterwards. Every other day, however, it will wake up for those 2 hours exactly. I'm convinced it's recharging the 12v battery at this time, simply because a week or two before fitting the kits it didn't do this.
He said he's also going to do a video shortly that shows the power consumption of the kits at various points, and when they sleep, etc.
My car appears to wake up every day at the moment anyway, but goes back to sleep again shortly afterwards. Every other day, however, it will wake up for those 2 hours exactly. I'm convinced it's recharging the 12v battery at this time, simply because a week or two before fitting the kits it didn't do this.
smatthew
Active Member
FYI: 45k mile May 2018 Model 3 - had to finally replace my 12V battery (over 3 years old) as it threw up a service-required soon message. Since Im under 50k/5 years, I scheduled service to replace the 12V for free. I removed the two power cable connectors for the frunk/trunk liftgate and no issues with service. Recommend doing so for any service appointment.
Hardware is different and after-sales support is different. TO better on both and the $150 extra is absolutely worth it. If you do a little research, many have replaced their HS kits with the TO ones. I have a friend who went through 2 HS trunk kits and finally gave up and replaced it with the TO kit. Overall extra cost to him far exceeded $150.
I'm guessing he removed the power connectors while the ranger was there, with the frunk already open. As you say if they were removed in advance of taking the car in to a service centre you wouldn't be able to open it without the manual release I assume?
Since it was a mobile service appointment, I had the frunk already opened. But if you remove the power, you can manually open it via app/screen and pull it open manually. Theres a slight resistance opening it manually, Im sure that may raise suspicions with service but probably not to the point they care. YMMV
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