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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
Does anyone know the differences between all of the kits that are now available?
I note looking at the software page that there are hardware revisions (presumably) on pre and post 07/2021 and 10/2021 purchases, etc. I've got the Mark 2.5 trunk and Mark 3.0 frunk, purchased on 06/2021, and there's now three Mark 3.1 versions and a Mark 4.1 version too for the frunk, and two different Mark 2.5 versions for the trunk?
Also - an update to my battery situation - as of about 4 days ago my car is waking up every 24 hours to charge (I presume) for 2-3 hours, instead of every 48 hours, with no other change having been made to the car. It seems as if it's not going to be long before I get a message telling me that the 12v battery needs to be replaced.. and this is on a March 2020 car, so barely 1.5 years old.
I am losing ~1-2% of HV battery charge when this happens, so I am pretty confident it's the 12v battery being topped up, rather than the car just randomly staying awake for that time.
TO has assured me that the current draw when the control boxes are idle is nominal - 0.8mA, but that doesn't seem to square with the fact that my car apparently needs to wake up every 24 hours now to recharge the 12v battery.
Pretty gutted about it all to be honest.
I note looking at the software page that there are hardware revisions (presumably) on pre and post 07/2021 and 10/2021 purchases, etc. I've got the Mark 2.5 trunk and Mark 3.0 frunk, purchased on 06/2021, and there's now three Mark 3.1 versions and a Mark 4.1 version too for the frunk, and two different Mark 2.5 versions for the trunk?
Also - an update to my battery situation - as of about 4 days ago my car is waking up every 24 hours to charge (I presume) for 2-3 hours, instead of every 48 hours, with no other change having been made to the car. It seems as if it's not going to be long before I get a message telling me that the 12v battery needs to be replaced.. and this is on a March 2020 car, so barely 1.5 years old.
I am losing ~1-2% of HV battery charge when this happens, so I am pretty confident it's the 12v battery being topped up, rather than the car just randomly staying awake for that time.TO has assured me that the current draw when the control boxes are idle is nominal - 0.8mA, but that doesn't seem to square with the fact that my car apparently needs to wake up every 24 hours now to recharge the 12v battery.
Pretty gutted about it all to be honest.
smatthew
Active Member
FYI: The Hansshow "Trunk goes up and down continually" feature appears to cause problems with the FSD beta. If the trunk is open for more than about a minute, it causes the beta to lock up and you completely lose access to TACC and AP until the cars decides everything is right with the world again.
Sorry to hear about the experience. The only way I could think of diagnosing this with some certainty is wiring a toggle switch to the power for the frunk kit (find discreet location inside cabin) so you can toggle back and forth for testing. Not ideal and recognize it's a bit of a pain but really not too difficult.Does anyone know the differences between all of the kits that are now available?
I note looking at the software page that there are hardware revisions (presumably) on pre and post 07/2021 and 10/2021 purchases, etc. I've got the Mark 2.5 trunk and Mark 3.0 frunk, purchased on 06/2021, and there's now three Mark 3.1 versions and a Mark 4.1 version too for the frunk, and two different Mark 2.5 versions for the trunk?
Also - an update to my battery situation - as of about 4 days ago my car is waking up every 24 hours to charge (I presume) for 2-3 hours, instead of every 48 hours, with no other change having been made to the car. It seems as if it's not going to be long before I get a message telling me that the 12v battery needs to be replaced.. and this is on a March 2020 car, so barely 1.5 years old.
TO has assured me that the current draw when the control boxes are idle is nominal - 0.8mA, but that doesn't seem to square with the fact that my car apparently needs to wake up every 24 hours now to recharge the 12v battery.
Pretty gutted about it all to be honest.
I'm planning to rewire the trunk soon directly to the 12v battery, by running the power cable through the grommet in the firewall. I'm just building up the courage to take bits of trim off to run the wire, etc (I'm not very hands on DIY wise). At the moment it's connected to the penthouse 12v, which is where the Hansshow kit connects, but the TO is supposed to be connected to VCRIGHT (or VCLEFT?) or the 12v battery. For all I know (and hope) that is part of the problem, but I don't feel like it would be - it's just power and the car is sleeping properly.
Once I've done that I'll be able to disconnect the trunk kit and leave it for several days to see if the pattern changes, i.e. with only the frunk kit connected to power.
I was looking into the possibility of hooking up some system where I can disconnect both systems for an extended period of time, and reconnect them again somehow. I hadn't thought of a toggle switch, but that could work nicely. My big concern is that currently I can't practically disconnect the frunk kit without losing access to the frunk itself once I close it (and I suspect the car won't sleep properly with the frunk open?). The car lives outside too so it's impractical in any event. I haven't tested opening the frunk with the emergency release cord, although it is in place.
The only thing I'm pretty certain of is that these wakeups correspond to 12v battery topups, since they didn't happen before installing both kits with anything like the frequency as they do now. Each wakeup lasts for 2 or 3 hours exactly, which correlates with what information I've been able to find online about the DC-DC 12v battery topup process. Before installing the kits - according to TeslaMate - my car would basically sleep and wake periodically for ~15 minutes, without charging the 12v at all, for days on end, possibly even weeks.
I guess it's the sort of problem that people aren't noticing if they drive their M3 regularly, since the car presumably charges the battery as you're driving anyway. In my case my car can be (and has been) sat idle for weeks.
TO assure me that the kits only use ~0.8mA when sleeping, and that they sleep with the car. I don't have any reason to disbelieve them, but at the same time the evidence is pretty clear in the stats for my car - these 12v charges that were happening every 48 hours like clockwork are now happening every 24 hours. Pretty soon, I would assume, they'll be happening more than once a day, and at that point I imagine I'll see a warning about the 12v battery needing to be replaced, or for the car to be just dead one morning.
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Out of interest - the TeslaOffer/EVOffer frunk kit has quite a chunky two part power connector (you put the spade connector into one part, which then connects to the bit that's got the inline fuse). Are people wrapping this whole thing in electrical tape, or is that unnecessary? I'm just thinking that the vents on the removable panel would in theory let moisture in.
Probably overthinking it, like everything. On the install videos I've watched no one has wrapped it up in tape or anything, so I'm wondering if it's even necessary.
Probably overthinking it, like everything. On the install videos I've watched no one has wrapped it up in tape or anything, so I'm wondering if it's even necessary.
Hi Matthew, a reddit user (SK360) mentioned you in a USB-A -> USB-C upgrade thread. Since I'm a new user here, I don't seem to have the ability to DM. Would appreciate if you can DM me. Want to avoid hijacking the thread as much as possible. Thanks!
turrmoil
MYLR5 RED/WHT 20’’ FSD DEL12/21 Totaled 6/22 :(
I bought as well. Is yours shipped? Mine isn’t and it’s coming up 3 weeks. Support replied they are backed up.
Also, I want to add an on/off switch to the lower cable. Any recommendations?
I bought mine a long time ago. I didn't buy it in a sale and received mine in less than a week. As I mentioned they rarely do sales so I am guessing when they ran a BF sale they got lots of demand causing a backlog. I'm guessing you mean power cable rather than lower cable? If so that's not a bad idea but I'd check with EVOffer before doing that. Powering it down may (wild guess here) require doing a system reset of the kit each time you disconnect the power.
turrmoil
MYLR5 RED/WHT 20’’ FSD DEL12/21 Totaled 6/22 :(
Thanks both.
Yeah, I meant power cable. Ok will check with them. Thank you.
From what I can tell from having the trunk kit connected to the "wrong" place (according to EVOffer) - i.e. the 12v penthouse supply under the rear seats, I can tell you the following:
- Often the boot release switch won't work after a period of idle time, even when the car is awake (e.g. sentry on). I don't know the exact circumstances that the penthouse 12v gets de-energised, but it's definitely not a 100% reliable constant. The foot sensor also doesn't work in this state. Sometimes this doesn't happen - e.g. car charging, but other times it does. I would say the 12v penthouse connection is unreliable as a power source for the trunk kit. Interestingly the Hansshow kit install goes there, I can only presume their control box works differently.
- To back up the above, sometimes when I wake the car up the trunk spontaneously opens as it wakes. From speaking to EVOffer this is because the trunk does this when the control box receives power. I'd like them to release a firmware update to stop it doing that, but I don't know if they will for an edge case where it's been installed wrong.
- VCRight (or VCLeft) - where EVOffer say you should install it - is a 12v supply that drops down to 9v while the car is asleep. This appears to be good enough to keep the control box "alive", and therefore the boot switch & foot sensor.
In terms of an on/off switch, this is something I'm looking into as well. There is a good chance though that if it's toggled from off to on while you have a phone key or equivalent nearby that the frunk and trunk will open, as that seems to be the "power on" behaviour of the control boxes, certainly the trunk one anyway.
- Often the boot release switch won't work after a period of idle time, even when the car is awake (e.g. sentry on). I don't know the exact circumstances that the penthouse 12v gets de-energised, but it's definitely not a 100% reliable constant. The foot sensor also doesn't work in this state. Sometimes this doesn't happen - e.g. car charging, but other times it does. I would say the 12v penthouse connection is unreliable as a power source for the trunk kit. Interestingly the Hansshow kit install goes there, I can only presume their control box works differently.
- To back up the above, sometimes when I wake the car up the trunk spontaneously opens as it wakes. From speaking to EVOffer this is because the trunk does this when the control box receives power. I'd like them to release a firmware update to stop it doing that, but I don't know if they will for an edge case where it's been installed wrong.
- VCRight (or VCLeft) - where EVOffer say you should install it - is a 12v supply that drops down to 9v while the car is asleep. This appears to be good enough to keep the control box "alive", and therefore the boot switch & foot sensor.
In terms of an on/off switch, this is something I'm looking into as well. There is a good chance though that if it's toggled from off to on while you have a phone key or equivalent nearby that the frunk and trunk will open, as that seems to be the "power on" behaviour of the control boxes, certainly the trunk one anyway.
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