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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
They got back to me very quickly. There may be a change to the frunk mechanics. Struts, mounts, etc, on cars built after 07/2021. I’m going to take some photos of mine for them after delivery - sadly it got pushed back a week so they can fix some issues with the car they found on inspection at the local centre.
Raymond and Warren have been pretty responsive to me via Telegram. Nonetheless, there is a 12 hour difference for me, so it's not ideal if you are looking for real-time feedback from them. Surprisingly, sometimes they do respond at what would be 1:00AM their time on a Saturday night, but then I feel bad. :-(
That said... I got my EV Offer (M3 2021) Frunk kit (Mark 4 2020/10-2021/06 mostly installed, when I ran into a problem with my hood strut bracket. Not the fault of EV Offer, it's a Tesla manufacturing issue. I was looking forward to this install, but could not proceed, and had to back everything out. Tesla will cover the issue under warranty, but it's a big hassle, requiring a new hood (as they don't really fix things, it seems, they just replace). I just had PPF installed, and would have to replace it on my own dime, so I'm thinking of just living with the defective hood strut bracket, which still works, but won't allow removal.
But then I won't be able to install the electronic frunk kit. :-/ Right now, I'm good with that, because it was quite a let down for me to get so close and then have to pull it all out.
So I'll probably look to sell this kit for whatever I can get, plus shipping. Look for an upcoming posting in the TMC marketplace. Or maybe eBay would be better? Or PM me if interested.
That said... I got my EV Offer (M3 2021) Frunk kit (Mark 4 2020/10-2021/06 mostly installed, when I ran into a problem with my hood strut bracket. Not the fault of EV Offer, it's a Tesla manufacturing issue. I was looking forward to this install, but could not proceed, and had to back everything out. Tesla will cover the issue under warranty, but it's a big hassle, requiring a new hood (as they don't really fix things, it seems, they just replace). I just had PPF installed, and would have to replace it on my own dime, so I'm thinking of just living with the defective hood strut bracket, which still works, but won't allow removal.
But then I won't be able to install the electronic frunk kit. :-/ Right now, I'm good with that, because it was quite a let down for me to get so close and then have to pull it all out.
So I'll probably look to sell this kit for whatever I can get, plus shipping. Look for an upcoming posting in the TMC marketplace. Or maybe eBay would be better? Or PM me if interested.
(personal comments only, not moderation content, or representative of TMC moderators, TMC, or anyone other than jjrandorin the regular poster)
Since the thread title is "handshow vs teslaoffer" just based on the various threads on the two on TMC, I would say that TeslaOffer (now EVOffer I guess?) should be the choice, hands down.
I dont see posts here on TMC of TeslaOffer (EvOffer) ghosting people, etc. I personally like OEM equipment likely wont be buying one of these, but if I ever did, it would be EVoffer. I wouldnt consider buying anything at all from hansshow, no matter how good it was supposed to work.
Since the thread title is "handshow vs teslaoffer" just based on the various threads on the two on TMC, I would say that TeslaOffer (now EVOffer I guess?) should be the choice, hands down.
I dont see posts here on TMC of TeslaOffer (EvOffer) ghosting people, etc. I personally like OEM equipment likely wont be buying one of these, but if I ever did, it would be EVoffer. I wouldnt consider buying anything at all from hansshow, no matter how good it was supposed to work.
Mine was the same (no wires attached to the tow hole cover). The wires are there, and you'll want them attached to the tow hole cover in case you ever need to open your frunk if the 12V battery is dead. Tesla just did a poor job of securing the wires to that tow hole cover. You'll find them inside your bumper cover somewhere, accessible when the frunk tub is removed. I found them, fished them through the tow hole, and attached them with a small zip tie to the center of the cover.
Oh, meant to comment on this as well. You can (and should) do this, for similar reasons as to the wires. If you don't have access to that emergency pull, you won't be able to unlatch the frunk if something goes wrong with the EV Offer motor.
You just need to run the loop cable under the metal brace (between the frunk tub space (tub removed, of course) and the bumper cover), and continue under the styrofoam. Leaning over into the frunk, you can fit your hand under their and push the loop through the hole.
What I did was first shined a flashlight through the hole so I could see approximately where the hole was, and was then able to just put my fingers through the hole from the outside, and could feel and grab the loop as I pushed it up from inside the frunk with my other hand. It's really not very difficult if you know there's a pretty clear path from the frunk to the hole (just hidden by the metal bar and the styrofoam). Unless your arm is really large, I guess, but you could consider using a fish-tape if that's the case.
Again, you'll want to take care of these things. You'll always need a fast and easy way into your frunk if anything goes wrong under the hood.
I had rigid foam between my bumper plastic and the metal bumper frame too. It was a lot harder to thread the pull cord through the hole than it appeared in the how-to video, but it was do-able. I definitely wouldn't feel comfortable not having this emergency pull cord available, for the reasons mentioned above by @Zinzan
I ended up going with the EVOffer (teslaoffer) kit and am in the process of getting it installed by EVFixMe here in SoCal. Install is not going well. The backup camera does not work anymore. Even recent dashcam/sentry video doesn’t show the camera anymore. Car is a Dec 2018 build with Tesla software version 2021.24.3. We’ve also updated the firmware on the EVOffer control unit to the latest build from 6/1/21 [ 501 (MARK 2.5)] I’m helping EVFixMe diagnose and have reached out to the vendor (but it’s 5am there). If anyone has a recommended solution then that would be very helpful.
Given the kit has no interaction with the cameras at all I would imagine one of the wires that is in the loom that goes up into the trunk has been severed. It’s a tight fit in there to pull the wires for the kit up, and the existing wires that are there are very thin (24awg).
That being said if even recent sentry/dashcam doesn’t show it then it would suggest it’s been broken for a while? Recordings don’t need the cameras to be present to work, of course.
Sorry to say that this sounds like an installation fail
That being said if even recent sentry/dashcam doesn’t show it then it would suggest it’s been broken for a while? Recordings don’t need the cameras to be present to work, of course.
Sorry to say that this sounds like an installation fail
Rear view was working on the drive to the shop and when evfixme reversed it into their work area. It was the recent one hour of dashcam footage that didn’t have the rear camera view. Previous footage, prior to dropping car off at Evfixme, have all cameras present.Given the kit has no interaction with the cameras at all I would imagine one of the wires that is in the loom that goes up into the trunk has been severed. It’s a tight fit in there to pull the wires for the kit up, and the existing wires that are there are very thin (24awg).
That being said if even recent sentry/dashcam doesn’t show it then it would suggest it’s been broken for a while? Recordings don’t need the cameras to be present to work, of course.
Sorry to say that this sounds like an installation fail
You are aligned with evfixme on that hypothesis, however. Evfixme thought it was a cable that was snipped and was going to get a replacement, but after doing a full power down of the car (unplugging power under rear seat) the backup came back initially after boot up, but then went away a short time later and never came back. So it was deemed a software issue. We even attempted a code reload of the Tesla update. No luck unfortunately.
Still waiting on evfixme to reach out with a fix
maybe after hearing back from the vendor.
@shimmy, I'm with @Durzel on this one. Therefore, very unlikely this would be fixed via software updates. The kit has no interaction whatsoever other than running wiring up a common channel (the silicone cable conduit) as the rear camera wire. It's possible they may have disturbed the camera cable enough that the link is not completely broken but loose. Did Evfixme use a cable lubricant when running the wire through the conduit?
The issue got worse this morning.
The trunk was able to unlatch (I did it initially via the mobile app) but the trunk did not open. And then it would NOT close. The EVOffer control unit had no power. I was unable to manually lock/close the trunk so the car was not drivable. I had to take alternate transportation to an appointment I had and was late. EVfixme came out to the house, replaced the control unit(s) and the EVOffer trunk was working again (apparently I got a bad unit??). During that process, the wires feeding the rear camera were adjusted and for a brief moment, the rear camera came back on. So yes, the issue is with the wire! EVfixme admitted to the installing error (and yes, Tony from EVfixme said they did use cable lubricant) and is working to get a new wiring harness from Tesla, which will take several days, unfortunately. The issue with the rear camera still remains unresolved.
The probability of having these issues is why I waited several years/revisions before committing to an auto trunk, and here we are... for anyone installing, tell the shop to be EXTRA careful when running those wires through the conduit!
@shimmy, it sounds like EVfixme is providing you with some solid service by coming out to replace the control unit and admitting to an install error. More often than not, many installers will pin the blame on something else rather than accept responsibility so my hats off to them. Keep us posted on the progress and sorry to hear about the unusual issue.
smatthew
Active Member
Rear view was working on the drive to the shop and when evfixme reversed it into their work area. It was the recent one hour of dashcam footage that didn’t have the rear camera view. Previous footage, prior to dropping car off at Evfixme, have all cameras present.
You are aligned with evfixme on that hypothesis, however. Evfixme thought it was a cable that was snipped and was going to get a replacement, but after doing a full power down of the car (unplugging power under rear seat) the backup came back initially after boot up, but then went away a short time later and never came back. So it was deemed a software issue. We even attempted a code reload of the Tesla update. No luck unfortunately.
Still waiting on evfixme to reach out with a fix
The camera sends it's data digitally via a serial link. Intermittent problems in the cable can result in a data stream corruption and then the computer has trouble locking onto the signal again until it's rebooted. The trunk harness is only $70
I got around to installing the Tesla Offer (EV Offer) mark 2.5 trunk kit yesterday. All I can say is eff trying to pull the wire thru the rubber tube from the trunk into the trunk lid.
The angle of the rubber boot near the trunk hinge is wayyy too sharp and makes it super hard to even run the fishing cable thru it. I struggled with it for so damn long, and even when I did manage to run the fishing cable thru, it was a heck of a time trying to pull the connector through.
Eventually, I gave up, and just slit the rubber boot on the rib portions only, which made it SOOOOO much easier to pull the wire thru, and didn't risk stretching the OEM Tesla wires/harness that are already in the rubber boot.
I taped it all back up with lots of electrical tape, and taped it all over with another layer of waterproof Flex tape to make sure water doesn't make it's way into the boot.
TLDR: Instead of trying to pull the wire thru the boot, I slit the boot to run the wire thru instead.
The angle of the rubber boot near the trunk hinge is wayyy too sharp and makes it super hard to even run the fishing cable thru it. I struggled with it for so damn long, and even when I did manage to run the fishing cable thru, it was a heck of a time trying to pull the connector through.
Eventually, I gave up, and just slit the rubber boot on the rib portions only, which made it SOOOOO much easier to pull the wire thru, and didn't risk stretching the OEM Tesla wires/harness that are already in the rubber boot.
I taped it all back up with lots of electrical tape, and taped it all over with another layer of waterproof Flex tape to make sure water doesn't make it's way into the boot.
TLDR: Instead of trying to pull the wire thru the boot, I slit the boot to run the wire thru instead.
Did you use tube lube because we just installed another car the other day and glided up quick and smoothly with the fish wire. If you don't know what tube lube is, refer to Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?
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