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"Hard" reboot... nonsense, right?

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One thing I saw is that the limiting of supercharging speed on my 90 pack was initiated by a person logging in on the car.

All this is pure speculation and in line with Tesla’s very poor customer communications.
Also interested in details. Are you just speculating that your reduced supercharging speed was connected to the remote login? Did it happen without accepting a software update? Is the remote address logged? How did you reach the conclusion that a person manually initiated something?
 
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Thanks everyone for this good information. I have long contended that there was no "hard" reset for the exact same reasons, including having consulted with every Tesla Tech I have come in contact with. It is always funny when someone like @Duke-U promises to return with content and is never heard from again.

I was really impressed in this Troll happy environment how few people came to this thread to disagree. Perhaps it didn't garner enough eyeballs, as it was also not visited by authoritative rooted figures who could post log files showing the steps of a reset.

Interesting to hear about the streaming services cloud data. I know they no longer give out your account info so you can access Tune-In on your home computer, but I also had a tech offer to reset my car to Factory to RESOLVE a Tune-In issue. I had accidentally hit the Thumbs Down button for the song Tesla Girls, I was so excited to hear it I stabbed at pressing the Thumbs Up. If you hit Thumbs Down you will NEVER hear that song again. Yikes!

He said that doing a reset to Factory will cause the account number to autogenerate a NEW account number, so you would lose all your saved songs. But I have only heard the one tech say that, could just be more VooDoo.
 
He said that doing a reset to Factory will cause the account number to autogenerate a NEW account number, so you would lose all your saved songs.
I just suffered from the service center doing a factory reset of my MCU to rectify my report of frequent crashes that I believe are do to a hardware problem (eMMC?). I lost not only all of my settings (no, they did not restore these), but also my trip odometers, which held my running total energy and average Wh/mi for the life of my vehicle (which greatly disappointed me). Nevertheless, I did not lose my Slacker account, contrary to the claim you heard. It is true that when I first tried to pull up the "Streaming" section, it came up with a login screen, which I, at first, thought confirmed your report (but I believe was just due to a connection problem). However, after a bit of going back and forth, it logged in fine and I confirmed that "likes" I had previously set on songs were still present.
 
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@Randy Spencer To be honest, I couldn't find the files on my laptop and since I live in my summerhouse during the viruscrisis, had no access to my files on my home computer. And then forgot all about it, sorry.

This is a snippet from the Gatway.cfg file:

rhd 0
intrusiontilt 1
memoryseats 2
seattype 2
seatfabrictype 0
memorymirrors 1
ocs 0
euvehicle 1
interior 0
exterior 11
dash 6
4wd 1
seatheaters 1
performance 1
badging 0
fastcharge 1
# access-internal-dat.pl 2019-06-21 07:12:55: Teleforce user wzhang changed fastChargeInstalled from 1 to 2
fastChargeInstalled 2
spoilerinstalled 0

Edit: I am not rooted, I had my eMMC replaced when I saw the first signs of wear. The guy doing that gave me a memory card with all the data of the eMMC on it, so that you can restore even when the whole chip goes down.

Edit2: @kavyboy @thecloud tagged so you get a ping.
 
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I know this thread is old but I also am in the camp that the “hold the brake reset” does nothing different.

I think the only meaningful reset is switching your wheel configuration. But I’m not even 100% sure on that either.

EDIT: I just tried that wheel configuration change and it doesn’t seem to reboot it fully. It just resets for like 10 seconds where as the steering wheel reset takes about a minute.
 
I know this thread is old but I also am in the camp that the “hold the brake reset” does nothing different.

I think the only meaningful reset is switching your wheel configuration. But I’m not even 100% sure on that either.

EDIT: I just tried that wheel configuration change and it doesn’t seem to reboot it fully. It just resets for like 10 seconds where as the steering wheel reset takes about a minute.

It’s not a camp, it’s just flat out the truth. The brake has no - zip, zero, zilch - effect whatsoever on any system reset. No idea where that myth came from, but it just ain’t true.
 
I know this thread is old but I also am in the camp that the “hold the brake reset” does nothing different.
I think the only meaningful reset is switching your wheel configuration. But I’m not even 100% sure on that either.
EDIT: I just tried that wheel configuration change and it doesn’t seem to reboot it fully. It just resets for like 10 seconds where as the steering wheel reset takes about a minute.
10 seconds doesn't sound right. Nor does your 'analysis' in general based on time. Using ScanMyTesla, you can see that various subsystems are (still) running and producing data even while rebooting or when in a 'Power Off' option state. Many people have had GPS stuck issues or some other odd problem that two-finger or Power-Off have not resolved (GPS related subsystem stayed up) ... but it was resolved when doing wheel config.
 
10 seconds doesn't sound right. Nor does your 'analysis' in general based on time. Using ScanMyTesla, you can see that various subsystems are (still) running and producing data even while rebooting or when in a 'Power Off' option state. Many people have had GPS stuck issues or some other odd problem that two-finger or Power-Off have not resolved (GPS related subsystem stayed up) ... but it was resolved when doing wheel config.
When I changed the wheel configuration, the reboot took a way shorter amount of time. I didn’t time it but it was probably 20 seconds realistically. I did time the normal steering wheel reset and that was 1:04.
 
Since this is a contentious issue, perhaps you would like to be CLEAR about what you just said.

What are the Wheel Config, Power-Off and Two-Finger that you refer to
Sorry. I thought that would have been clear.

Power-Off: Controls > Safety and Security > Power Off (as described in link 1)
Two-Finger: Press and hold both scroll wheels at the same time (as described in link 1)
Wheel Config: Controls > Service > Wheel Configuration -- OTA 2019.32.1 | Change Your Wheel Configuration

Link 1: How to Reset and Reboot Your Tesla – Complete Instructions
Link 2: tesla wheel configuration 2019.32.1 - Google Search
 
It’s full nonsense.
There are people who have had stuck GPS location issues that tried all the other normal reboot options which didn't help. A wheel configuration change and change back did ... the obvious theory is that it reset/triggered something else that was related to the part of the GPS system. I had GPS locations issues prior to that (option becoming available) and ended up unhooking the 12v for 5 minutes which fixed my GPS location issue (allowing me to cancel my mobile tech visit). When threads come up relate to the GPS location I look at them and thus saw the results related to wheel config from people with the problem being resolved.