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Has anyone installed a radar detector in a updated 2021 model S?

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I just installed my Escort 9500ci. It was actually much easier on the refresh compared to my priors, as getting the wires from the cabin to the front was super fast and easy.

I powered it using the OBD connector. Switched source. It requires 2 diodes in series to lower the voltage from 15.33 to 13.7. I could easily have added a 3rd. Without the diodes, I got a high voltage error on my radar. Interestingly enough, the Escort's manual says the High Voltage alert is set at 16.5V, and low at 10.5. Not sure why I would get the alert at 15.33, but maybe because there is some variability going on that is too fast to measure.

Both the front receiver and GPS are in the front bumper. I had to remove the entire frunk to get to that. Not a difficult job: just remove the weather stripping, detach the emergency frunk release (unplugs), pull out the frunk insert, and there are 4 bolts (10mm) to remove. I ran a fish tape from the driver's door jamb into the frunk area, grabbed the two wires and gently pulled them in. I did not run my laser shifters. Maybe another day, though probably not. From the door jamb, I just ran the wires under the rubber and into the side panel. I did this with 3 Model S's and never had an issue. I tucked the speaker and the brain into the driver's side panel. I had to remove a small square piece of padding in there to make everything fit, but tehn everything tucked in nicely. I ran the display to just under the left side of the center screen, and the control unit to the left dash.

Everything works beautifully. Lots of pics below.

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I am convinced that tesla employees have an orgasm every time they remove a feature from their cars (radar, buttons, climate vents, steering wheel, etc).

Ironically the price of the cars keep going up as they keep removing features. Evil elon musk and other evil tesla executives are laughing their asses of while they are counting their billions at the bank.

They are also making their cars less and less safe as time passes with removal of the radar and the steering wheel, Welp, looks like i will need to purchase a car from a non retarded company after i sell my current car.
 
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Reactions: 4SUPER9
I am convinced that tesla employees have an orgasm every time they remove a feature from their cars (radar, buttons, climate vents, steering wheel, etc).

Ironically the price of the cars keep going up as they keep removing features. Evil elon musk and other evil tesla executives are laughing their asses of while they are counting their billions at the bank.

They are also making their cars less and less safe as time passes with removal of the radar and the steering wheel, Welp, looks like i will need to purchase a car from a non retarded company after i sell my current car.
What does anything you just said have to do with installing a radar detector? Troll much?
 
I just installed my Escort 9500ci. It was actually much easier on the refresh compared to my priors, as getting the wires from the cabin to the front was super fast and easy.

I powered it using the OBD connector. Switched source. It requires 2 diodes in series to lower the voltage from 15.33 to 13.7. I could easily have added a 3rd. Without the diodes, I got a high voltage error on my radar. Interestingly enough, the Escort's manual says the High Voltage alert is set at 16.5V, and low at 10.5. Not sure why I would get the alert at 15.33, but maybe because there is some variability going on that is too fast to measure.

Both the front receiver and GPS are in the front bumper. I had to remove the entire frunk to get to that. Not a difficult job: just remove the weather stripping, detach the emergency frunk release (unplugs), pull out the frunk insert, and there are 4 bolts (10mm) to remove. I ran a fish tape from the driver's door jamb into the frunk area, grabbed the two wires and gently pulled them in. I did not run my laser shifters. Maybe another day, though probably not. From the door jamb, I just ran the wires under the rubber and into the side panel. I did this with 3 Model S's and never had an issue. I tucked the speaker and the brain into the driver's side panel. I had to remove a small square piece of padding in there to make everything fit, but tehn everything tucked in nicely. I ran the display to just under the left side of the center screen, and the control unit to the left dash.

Everything works beautifully. Lots of pics below.

View attachment 738126View attachment 738125View attachment 738124View attachment 738123View attachment 738122
No, No, No!. Come on, you can do better than that. Didn't I show you where to run the wires through the firewall?!
 
No, No, No!. Come on, you can do better than that. Didn't I show you where to run the wires through the firewall?!
Haha. Yes, you are correct. This does look a bit sloppy, though I cleaned it up after taking the picture. It was definitely easier too. To be honest, once it is done, I never look at it again, as it is in the jamb, and not otherwise a distraction. My last 3 MS's had the same wires, and they were never noticable, and I am pretty much a neat-freak with these things. Also, but using your method, I was wondering if there could be issues running wires along such a powerful cable. Do you have a link to where you show how to do that? Maybe for another day. I may need to run wires for another project, and can re-do it then, if you can convince me... ;)
 
No, No, No!. Come on, you can do better than that. Didn't I show you where to run the wires through the firewall?!
Where is the access through the firewall? I definitely want to run through instead of going around. On my prior 2017 MS, I went through the same graumet as the High Voltage lines.. but am wondering if there is a better option on the refresh (dont have mine yet).
 
I have my Uniden R3 connected directly to my mirror. The only issue I have with mine (2018 100D) is V12 socket or mirror, the radar doesn't automatically turn on with the car ALL the time. Sometimes I need to unplug the RJ11 cable from the radar, and insert it back for it to start. In my 2014 P85 this never happened as the radar turned on every single time. I wonder if it's a newer MS design thing.

This is the cable I bought to plug directly into the mirror:
Radar Mount RJ11 Mirror Wire Radar Detector Hardwire Power Cord for Uniden DFR Series (3005201U)

This it the radar I bought, and still have since April 2019
Uniden R3 Extreme Long Range Radar Laser Detector GPS, 360 Degree, DSP, Voice Alert
 
Where is the access through the firewall? I definitely want to run through instead of going around. On my prior 2017 MS, I went through the same graumet as the High Voltage lines.. but am wondering if there is a better option on the refresh (dont have mine yet).
Factory grommet through the firewall, just behind the OBD connector (visible in the bottom left)
Installation location of my ALP control box, bluetooth module, speaker, gps ect. There is a generously spaced area adjacent the accelerator pedal, within center console area.
20210920_092505.jpg

Three laser jammer head wires routed from the firewall grommet, through the engine bay.
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Removed the Tesla emblem to mount the ALP TX head
20210929_160857.jpg

Triple head setup in the front and double in the rear
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@4SUPER9
 
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Factory grommet through the firewall, just behind the OBD connector (visible in the bottom left)
Installation location of my ALP control box, bluetooth module, speaker, gps ect. There is a generously spaced area adjacent the accelerator pedal, within center console area.
View attachment 740420
Three laser jammer head wires routed from the firewall grommet, through the engine bay.
View attachment 740422
Removed the Tesla emblem to mount the ALP TX head
View attachment 740421
Triple head setup in the front and double in the rear
View attachment 740424
View attachment 740425

@4SUPER9
Thanks. Super helpful!
 
@Bull

Just had my radar detector hardwired and mounted, using the 2021 Model 3 blendmount. I'm really pleased with how it turned out.

12v accessory wire was at the bottom of the passenger side center console.
Hi! You might be the first person I’ve seen confirm that a M3 Blendmount fits the MS. Did you have to modify it to get it to fit, or is the mirror similar enough to M3 that it fit naturally? Thank you for the info!