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Has anyone installed the Blackvue 650 in the new 2016 model S?

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Yes. I think that's what we used to tap into the mic wiring. I'm waiting to hear back from the person who actually placed the order.
I heard back from my friend and he confirmed that's the part we used. We cut the plug off the Blackvue and spliced the wires from the Blackvue together with the StarTech cable using butt splice connectors. We then plugged the other end ofthe StarTech cable into the spare mic power port.
 
From your description, I understand that one end of the FAN4EXT12 cable is soldered to the Blackvue power plug but where does the other end go? Is there spare pins on the mic wiring? Did you solder that end too?

EDIT: Meant to say that I have a Europe car so I have read this might not be the case for me

There is an unused 4-pin connector (with only 3 wires) usually taped to the inside cover of the mic area. This is where the other end of that 4-pin computer fan extension would plug into.

MorrisonHiker beat me to it...lol
 
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I got out of work early, and installed the front camera using the mic wiring. I used the StarTech FAN4EXT12 cable
from Amazon. I also ordered a power cable so as to not destroy the original. I cut the ends of the connector off and soldered it directly to to the FAN4EXT12 cable. The mic wiring in my car is Grey 12V, Green 10V, and Black is ground.

I worked the panel from the headliner, and it pulled downward. It did require some force to get the clips to release. It is held up by plastic clips. It is fairly strong. I had no issues removing and reattaching. In fact, I did it several times trying to get the wires tucked up underneath. In hindsight, you only need to get the back clips out, as the wire doesn't really have anywhere to go underneath. It will be much easier to put back together if you don't remove everything. You only need enough to get the cable through.
View attachment 197647

I ended up running the wires on the outside of it. I would have been happier to hide them a bit more, but I am very pleased with the outcome.
View attachment 197648

when you say the "back clips out", is that the side by the headliner or the windshield/dashboard side?
 
From your description, I understand that one end of the FAN4EXT12 cable is soldered to the Blackvue power plug but where does the other end go? Is there spare pins on the mic wiring? Did you solder that end too?

EDIT: Meant to say that I have a Europe car so I have read this might not be the case for me

So, as you can see below, the one end clips into the port in the mic compartment.
IMG_8690.JPG

Then, I spliced the other end off and soldered it to the Blackvue wires. As stated by MorrisonHiker, you could also do this in other ways, like the butt splice connectors.
IMG_8691.JPG

when you say the "back clips out", is that the side by the headliner or the windshield/dashboard side?

I was referring to the headliner. The wire just needs to come through the headliner, and then go around the outside.
 
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Just thought I'd give an update on power consumption for the Blackvue 650s 2 ch while in a constant state of power draw via OBD-II port.

I parked at the airport recently for 5 nights and 6 days. I was NOT plugged in. I put the car in range mode, but not sure that makes a difference when parked. I left the car always connected to LTE. I have the Blackvue plugged into the ODB-II port and a hotspot always on plugged into the usb port. I probably checked the cloud 3 or 4 times over the course of my trip (mostly out of curiosity). I also used the Tesla app 3 times to check on the car (location, SoC, cabin temp, etc). Upon returning to the car in the parking garage after my trip, I had only lost 5% charge. Less then 1% per day loss.

I was so nervous about this that I did a full 100% charge prior to leaving, put the car in range mode and cursed many many times when I arrived to the garage and all the EV spots were taken. That was wasted energy. The vampire loss is MINIMAL!!!!
 
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Hmmmm, that sounds odd. Are you sure your device works? Are you sure the wire and/or obd ii port connecting the device works? I would think it's more likely to be a faulty device or wire then 2 known working power sources broke.
Turns out the fuse was blown for the mic connector and the camera(Rexing brand) has to have a hardwire kit to output 5V instead of 12v. I got the detector wired in through the Mic port after replacing fuse F100 under the Frunk shrowd. Waiting on the hard wire kit to get the camera installed. Would it be a problem if I ran the 12v radar detector and 5v camera from the same mic port? Or would it be better for me to run the camera to the obd port?
 
Turns out the fuse was blown for the mic connector and the camera(Rexing brand) has to have a hardwire kit to output 5V instead of 12v. I got the detector wired in through the Mic port after replacing fuse F100 under the Frunk shrowd. Waiting on the hard wire kit to get the camera installed. Would it be a problem if I ran the 12v radar detector and 5v camera from the same mic port? Or would it be better for me to run the camera to the obd port?
I am not sure of what the total load capacity is for the mic connection and I think the OBD-ii port is a 5 amp/12 volt load capacity. I would assume the mic connection is equal or less then that. So it may be better to run them separately, especially since they will both start at the same time. Simultaneous start up will overload the capacity and blow the fuse.
 
I've heard of others with similar problems with cheap SD cards.. I highly recommend the 'high endurance' video monitoring cards. Took the cheap blackvue card out after having restart and heat problems with it, haven't had a problem since. This is the one I purchased.

Amazon.com: SanDisk High Endurance Video Monitoring Card with Adapter 64GB (SDSDQQ-064G-G46A): Computers & Accessories
Good idea. I just picked one up and will report back as to whether this resolves the reboot issue.
 
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