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Has anyone repaired cooling louvers?

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I was really worried about the louvers.....have never had them open.....the last month when the temps at 106F in Irvine, Ca. I charged at 4:00pm.....facing the sun and with a/c on.....guess what?.....I heard a loud sound and got out and looked by putting my hand into louvers space and they were open and sucking in outside air....so mine do work
 
I was really worried about the louvers.....have never had them open.....the last month when the temps at 106F in Irvine, Ca. I charged at 4:00pm.....facing the sun and with a/c on.....guess what?.....I heard a loud sound and got out and looked by putting my hand into louvers space and they were open and sucking in outside air....so mine do work
As mentioned many times already, the side louvers can be inspected by any type of charging while started (the system performs open/close procedure as a selftest). And if you're not sure and want to inspect, it is also possible to go into service menu and search for the fault codes there (also described in this thread earlier).
 
I have similar errors (and have for a while) but I've confirmed the louvers are operating fine right after plugging in. Could be due to being an older car with fewer sensors? Either way I fixed it by exiting out of service mode, just like I fixed the TPMS sensors on my last car with electrical tape over the yellow light.

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I removed my louvres permanently. they are now always open.

Depending on your weather, you can consider doing this.
In this case consider very soon quite expensive cooling core change either on right or left side as the louvers ARE preventing any damage that can happen from road debris and stones. If the cooling lines do get empty then you loose your cabin heating/cooling functions and your battery performance might get reduced as well…
 
In this case consider very soon quite expensive cooling core change either on right or left side as the louvers ARE preventing any damage that can happen from road debris and stones. If the cooling lines do get empty then you loose your cabin heating/cooling functions and your battery performance might get reduced as well…
I have replaced the louvers with a mesh.
 
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Ok so I have entered service mode and found out those 5 alerts. Seems the central louver is probably ok, at least according to diag. I tried to open the side ones, but they seems to be stucked, don't want to push more and break it.
Correcting myself - I just realised, the faults with "cond" in the name (THC_w0126 and w0122) will be related to condenser, therefore these are the side ones for clima...And those with "rad" (THC_w0134 and THC_w0130) are probably related to the radiator, so it will be the center "double louver" module.. f**k.. thought it will be easier job :D

EDIT: Also found VERY interesting info here ... seems it can be just sw bug instead of physical problem! As mine louvers don't seem to be somehow stucked, but will see...
 
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I mean when I pulled the hose on one side I still had to collect like a gallon or two of fluid into my bucket. So the rad is half removed and there is only a hose clamp on either side so it would only take an extra minute to take off the rad entirely.

But I only took of the one side as it was 110°f inside my garage and I was trying to do things as quickly as possible.

If anyone does a louver repair it's pretty easy and I can easily answer any questions about the process.
Old thread I know - could I ask, how did you manage to bleed the cooling system properly? My center louvres have tested bad so I need to get busy, but I’m concerned that the service manual says you need to use toolbox to refill the system

Plus, it’s cold here right now so the diverter valves won’t open until the spring I expect!

Thanks in advance
 
Old thread I know - could I ask, how did you manage to bleed the cooling system properly? My center louvres have tested bad so I need to get busy, but I’m concerned that the service manual says you need to use toolbox to refill the system

Plus, it’s cold here right now so the diverter valves won’t open until the spring I expect!

Thanks in advance
there's the right way and there is the way that works lol
When i took off the rad i only pulled off one side the drivers side of the rad and left the passenger side connected and just shoved a plug into the holes it would've been easier to take the whole thing off though. Anyway when i hooked it back up i filled the res above the full line and took it for a drive and topped it off when i stopped, each stop was about 50 miles apart and i was doing about 90 mph in the desert summer so the water was getting moved around. Never had an issue.

A few months ago i replaced the rad because it had a million rock/bug strikes and the fins were bent to hell and it was only $25 for a new rad from tesla. This time i again didn't drain the system and did the passenger side first and damn there is some pressure in the line from the amount of water so i had to use a strong plug, (wooden dowel with some E tape to make it big enough to block the hose) on the line coming into the rad. once it was connected it was easy to do the drivers side. when i had both sides hooked back up correctly there is a small vent on the drivers side you can turn to let air escape till water starts coming out then close it and that'll get most of the air out. and then i just drove like normal and topped up the tank till it stopped showing any loss and stayed at the full mark.

The service manual is free from tesla so it probably says how to do it right but i just kinda rolled with it and no issues.
 
there's the right way and there is the way that works lol
When i took off the rad i only pulled off one side the drivers side of the rad and left the passenger side connected and just shoved a plug into the holes it would've been easier to take the whole thing off though. Anyway when i hooked it back up i filled the res above the full line and took it for a drive and topped it off when i stopped, each stop was about 50 miles apart and i was doing about 90 mph in the desert summer so the water was getting moved around. Never had an issue.

A few months ago i replaced the rad because it had a million rock/bug strikes and the fins were bent to hell and it was only $25 for a new rad from tesla. This time i again didn't drain the system and did the passenger side first and damn there is some pressure in the line from the amount of water so i had to use a strong plug, (wooden dowel with some E tape to make it big enough to block the hose) on the line coming into the rad. once it was connected it was easy to do the drivers side. when i had both sides hooked back up correctly there is a small vent on the drivers side you can turn to let air escape till water starts coming out then close it and that'll get most of the air out. and then i just drove like normal and topped up the tank till it stopped showing any loss and stayed at the full mark.

The service manual is free from tesla so it probably says how to do it right but i just kinda rolled with it and no issues.
Awesome - thank you

Did you ever investigate what the failure mechanism was - did the motors burn out for example?
 
So I have an update to this issue as during changing steering joint while having the car on small jack I saw the side louvers opening ang closing repeatedly! Can't really imagine what does it mean..but at least servos and mechanism is ok, seems more like a sw issue to me now....Any thoughts?
 
So I have an update to this issue as during changing steering joint while having the car on small jack I saw the side louvers opening ang closing repeatedly! Can't really imagine what does it mean..but at least servos and mechanism is ok, seems more like a sw issue to me now....Any thoughts?
Continuous opening and closing could mean some limit switch or position sensor is not working so the car cannot tell when they are open or closed.
 
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So I have an update to this issue as during changing steering joint while having the car on small jack I saw the side louvers opening ang closing repeatedly! Can't really imagine what does it mean..but at least servos and mechanism is ok, seems more like a sw issue to me now....Any thoughts?

If your issue is just that the faults come up, Im pretty sure the faults are a bug that appeared in one of the more recent firmware versions. I got the same errors but my louvers are fine. Pretty sure it's a bug and nothing is broken.
 
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Continuous opening and closing could mean some limit switch or position sensor is not working so the car cannot tell when they are open or closed.
Yes, it is possible, but as I was hearing the servo mechanism during the open/close cycle, it was working just right and didn't tend to push it over its mechanical limits.. So I really don't know as I didn't see the servo itself inside.

If your issue is just that the faults come up, Im pretty sure the faults are a bug that appeared in one of the more recent firmware versions. I got the same errors but my louvers are fine. Pretty sure it's a bug and nothing is broken.
Yes, faults are in service mode permanently on. So your thought is my main idea regarding the rootcause. I have also found some info saying that removal and putting back of the related fuse might help as it causes some reset to the thermal controller unit. Will try it, why not afterwards.
I have also searched for info regarding my charging speed, if this issue has somehow influenced it, but it doesn't seem to as it charges normal with power up to 140kW as 100D version with Gen1 charge port.
The only two possibly related issues I'm noticing might be:
1) Temp of the HV batt comes sometime up to 46°C on highway in summer under heavy load (seems quite high to me), but more likely stays at 43°C, so probably still not anything critical.
2) When HV batt temp is on its optimal values for supercharging (+-40°C) and I came to supercharge with low SOC, the side louvers stayed closed while both of the side fans are running very loud at full speed. The same situation is when I turn on clima while car at standstill (I'd expect the side louvers to open to let the air go directly to the side condensers).
 
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I have also found some info saying that removal and putting back of the related fuse might help
Update: it probably doesn't as it only caused triggering another fault visible also outside service mode and the previous THC faults are still there.. So probably the last possible solution might be the mentioned toolbox sequence that can be run to re-sync the active aero flaps and should clear the faults and maybe also let the louvers work again.