The Toyota "complementary maintenance" only covers tire rotation and oil change for a maximum of 4 times. It does not cover filters, belts, wiper blades, or any of the other things that are normally consumed during maintenance of ICE cars.
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seattlite2004
Active Member
I have a 2006 Prius with about 165k+ miles. IMHO, the recommended service schedule is stupid. On average, I've done a full synthetic oil change about every 7500 miles and replaced the cabin filter about every other oil change. ..maybe longer. I don't think I've ever spent more than $300/year on oil/filters..and that's a conservative amount. I have yet to replace any belts or brakes. I did change/flush all the fliuids at 100k for about $200...my buddy helped me. The Prius has really spoiled me on reliability and maint costs.
Perhaps you grew up in the days of points and copper spark plugs, but these days ICE maintenance requirements are a lot lower. In regular service none of those items need doing in the first 25,000miles. Maybe wipers and air filter if you drive on dusty rural roads a lot. If belts need replacing before 60,000 miles they weren't properly tensioned or you are doing something very wrong.
A lot of people feel the same way about the Tesla recommended service schedule. You can only compare recommended service against recommended service, otherwise you have to just see how little service you can get away with in each car until it stops running.
We still don't know what the recommended service on the Model 3 is.
seattlite2004 - I completely agree. BTW, you mention "belts" .... there aren't any.
I own a terrific Toyota Avalon hybrid. It shares all the great reliability qualities as does the Prius, only I get slightly lower milage .... but every mile is comfortable, quiet and delightful. I also can go 600 miles without thinking or worrying about fuel.
My Tesla number is still more than a year away .... but it will be difficult to sell what I have paid for and take upon myself a (absolutely beautiful) Tesla with all the same creature comforts .... but limited range (even the LR version).
I'm waiting, reading, and evaluating.
I own a terrific Toyota Avalon hybrid. It shares all the great reliability qualities as does the Prius, only I get slightly lower milage .... but every mile is comfortable, quiet and delightful. I also can go 600 miles without thinking or worrying about fuel.
My Tesla number is still more than a year away .... but it will be difficult to sell what I have paid for and take upon myself a (absolutely beautiful) Tesla with all the same creature comforts .... but limited range (even the LR version).
I'm waiting, reading, and evaluating.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
This is true, but of your list during the first 20k miles I think I have only changed blades. Maybe.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
There is something to that, but the difference is that DIY in a Toyota is simple and well described. I really hope that Tesla matures in the same direction.
ummgood
Member
I own a Toyota 4x4 and a Honda Odyssey. The regular service on average isn't as expensive the first 5 years of ownership as the Tesla $500/year maintenance. I sure hope they get that cost down. I do all my recommended service at the dealer for warranty/resale purposes. For the Honda van the 1st two years are <300. I pay 59.00 for a A1 service and 79.00 for a B1. So 140 for the first year. The next year was another 59 and I think a 179 service which is 240. The third year was more and was about 600 including a brake job. So I am still so far at 3 years and 50k miles less than the current Tesla service costs. The Toyota was similar. The only difference is the dealer was pushing stuff at the Toyota dealer that wasn't recommended which is something I appreciate Tesla for. But at the same time it isn't more 'affordable' if you stick to the recommended service intervals. At least until you get into costly thinks like timing belt changes. So I won't believe that a recommended service is cheaper for a Tesla until they show me. Now I know compared to something like a BMW it is probably more competitive but in general maintenance on a reliable ICE can be cheaper than Tesla's current cost for service.
If you are the DIY kind of person, you can easily do the recommended service that is done in the Tesla annual service. The only thing I have seen on the list that may be difficult to do on your own would be to change the battery coolant at 4 years/50k miles and possibly changing the A/C desiccant bag.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
That is my hope!
I change the coolant with partial replacements every year to avoid getting air in the circuit. All I have to know is where the coolant drain valve is in the Tesla.
ummgood
Member
I DIY my Tacoma now. I do basic things like brakes, spark plugs, filters, lube, torque the chassis bolts, etc...
Can someone please post what are on the maintenance intervals for the Tesla? I would love to see this. I might do this myself and take meticulous notes and do maybe every other service at the service center. Unless of course the price drops.
This is right of the Model S service manual. The brake fluid is changed every 2 years/25000 miles and the battery coolant is changed every 4 years/50000 miles.
Check for Alerts, Repair any Issues Found, Clear Alerts
- Connect a laptop with Toolbox to the vehicle.
- In Toolbox, select Perspectives > Predefined Perspectives > Service Default.
- Check the Currently Active Alerts, Alert History, and DTCs panels.
- After performing any necessary repairs, clear any DTCs:
- In the DTCs panel, select the "Clear DTC" radio button.
- Click the Start/Play button.
- Fully open the sliding glass.
- Use compressed air to blow out the drain hoses.
- Wrap a clean cloth around a plastic pry tool or other thin tool, then use it to remove dirt and old grease from the 4 channels on each side of the panoramic roof.
- Apply Klübersynth noise reduction grease to the 4 channels. Caution: Use only Klübersynth noise reduction grease, Tesla part number 1031102-00-A. Other greases can permanently damage the roof seals.
- Move the sliding glass to the 30% open position.
- Remove the sliding glass.
- Apply Klübersynth noise reduction grease to the sections of the tracks that were blocked by the sliding glass.
- Visually inspect the links and shoes for damage.
- Reinstall the sliding glass.
- Calibrate the panoramic roof.
- Use alcohol wipes to remove any grease from the glass and appliques. Use a clean, dry cloth to remove grease from the rubber seals. Caution: Do not use alcohol to remove grease from rubber seals. Alcohol degrades the rubber seals.
Replace the wiper blades.
Cabin Air Filter
Replace the particulate filter.
Coolant
Drain and refill the cooling system.
Steering Gear Bolts
Ensure that the bolts (x2) that secure the steering rack to the subframe are torqued to 175 Nm.
Note: Components have been removed in this graphic to aid clarity.
Hood Release Latch
RWD vehicles: Clean the secondary latch, then apply the proper lubricant.
Dual Motor vehicles: Clean the latch, then apply the proper lubricant.
A/C Desiccant Bag
Replace the desiccant bag.
Brake Fluid
Perform the full system bleed procedure.
Brake Caliper Pad Slides
Note: This is recommended for cold weather regions.
Note: Cleaning and lubricating the caliper pad slides/abutments is not included in the Annual Service price.
Note: Perform the following steps on all 4 calipers.
- Remove the pad retaining pins and collect the anti-rattle spring.
- Use a suitable tool to gently push the pistons back into caliper.
- Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
- Thoroughly clean the caliper pad slides and abutments with a hand brush (1057223-00-A) and soapy water.
- Front brake caliper.
- Rear brake caliper.
- Apply an even layer of Silaramic lubricant (1063021-00-A) to the caliper pad slides. Remove any excess lubricant.
- Apply an even layer of copper paste between the shim and the backing plate. Remove any paste that squeezes out after installing the shim.
Caution: Do not apply copper paste to the caliper, seals, or any component other than the shim and backing plate.
Transmission Fluid
Drain and refill the fluid from the gearbox(es):
- Rear wheel drive (RWD) vehicles:
- Drain and refill the fluid from the large rear drive unit.
- Non-Performance Dual Motor vehicles:
- Drain and refill the fluid from the front drive unit.
- Drain and refill the fluid from the small rear drive unit.
- Performance Dual Motor vehicles:
- Drain and refill the fluid from the front drive unit.
- Drain and refill the fluid from the large rear drive unit.
- Refer to the recommended tire rotation pattern for the vehicle.
- Remove the wheels and reinstall them in the appropriate positions.
- Connect a laptop with Toolbox 2.0 or later to the vehicle.
- Navigate to Panels > Thermal > Thermal System Test.
- Click the Start/Play button.
- Follow the onscreen instructions.
- Check the torque of the front suspension bolts.
- Check the torque of the rear suspension bolts.
Perform a wheel alignment check
Wheel Alignment Adjustment
Note: This is recommended if the wheel alignment check determines the wheel alignment is out of specification.
Note: Wheel alignment adjustment is not included in the Annual Service price.
Perform a wheel alignment adjustment.
ummgood
Member
I would hope the error repair could be done within warranty. The Thermo system check is probably the only thing I cannot do on my own besides the coolent system flush.
Right off the bat there are no air suspension components that need to be inspected and no panoramic roof tracks to grease and clean.
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
Well, bottom line is that we just don't know... the Model 3 is the first car that Tesla is pricing to compete with more mass market options from BMW, Audi, Mercedes, Lexus, Acura. Some of those are relatively economical to maintain.
The sweet spot for getting out of an ICE car is around the 6-7 year 80K mark. Around 8 years and/or 100K miles is when the real expensive stuff starts to come up.
For a Tesla the "sweet spot" is unknown because the fleet is so new. We also don't know at what time in the vehicle lifecycle a battery replacement becomes necessary and how much it will cost. If a new battery was needed at around 10 years in order to keep the vehicle usable that will wipe out any maintenance "cost savings" compared to internal combustion cars.
I'm quite certain that your average DIYer is not doing the full inspection that is called for by Toyota (or any manufacturer) when they service their car. I'm also quite certain that you could skip all the service in a Model S or X and you would be just fine for years and years.
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