dsmith2189
Active Member
Waitlist for the Tesla center console has been opened. Expected November shipping date in order of waitlist. No price announced.
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I'm sure mmartin knows this and just mistyped, but to clarify, the iPad wall charger isn't 10 amps, it's 10 watts (the newer wall chargers from Apple, interestingly enough, are rated a little higher, I think 12 watts?). Everything else is correct though I've never had an issue with an iPhone charging off of an iPad charger. Seems to work just fine.
Today I changed out the stock rear incandescent license plate bulbs for LED versions. I'm extremely pleased with the new look--much more fitting for such a modern car. Was rather surprised that Tesla opted for incandescent bulbs when almost everything else is LED's...and I have the LED lighting package too.
Photos show the progression from stock bulb appearance (first 2 photos), then 1 stock (left side) and 1 LED (right side), followed by the new all-LED look (last two photos).
Cheers, WeazL
Photos show the progression from stock bulb appearance (first 2 photos), then 1 stock (left side) and 1 LED (right side), followed by the new all-LED look (last two photos).
Cheers, WeazL
dsmith2189
Active Member
dsmith2189
Active Member
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
All, that have not bought and installed a set of these yet: Some of these LED bulbs are "polarized". That's a stretch for the use of this word, but I can't think of another. Or as we used to say back in AL-a-Bama, they are North-bound and South-bound ends. Natch-realy, point the "yellar spot" down towards the lens, but if you don't get a light when you insert them back in their clips, (with your lights turned on), pull'em back out and turn the light bulb 180 degrees and try again. (A-gain, that's why we call'em north-bound and south-bound. Of course if you are in Hawaii Kai, that would be referred to as East-lookin' and West-Lookin' :smile: )
Cool mod, but thing about what we are doing by doing this... We are improving the lighting of the rear plate, making it easier to read the numbers from a further distance, as you become a blur trying to make your getaway.
Cool mod, but thing about what we are doing by doing this... We are improving the lighting of the rear plate, making it easier to read the numbers from a further distance, as you become a blur trying to make your getaway.
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Haha...yes, all of the above are true. Also, you do NOT want to get the "Canbus" or "Error Free" LED's as these may not work properly in the Tesla. Those versions have a microchip to make them work with German manufactured cars.
The bulbs I got cost $5.09 for the pair through Amazon:
Amazon.com: Classy Autos 36mm Festoon 6 LEDs SMD LED Bulb White for 3021 DE3021 6411 6413 6418 DE3423 DE3425 Replacement (A Pair): Automotive
Installation is super easy...5 minutes tops. Simply unscrew the two screws from each light fixture, pull down on the feature and the bulb and housing both come out together. Switch out the bulb and orient it to face the correct direction (down) and push back in. Put the screws back in and you're done.
The bulbs above are about 1mm shorter than the factory bulb so when you insert them into the plastic harness before reinstalling them, they can wiggle abound a little. This won't pose any problem once inserted as once you push the bulbs back into the housing, the clamps will grab the bulb and grip it securely. Just make sure the bulbs are oriented properly going into the housing.
These LED's are polarity sensitive as Akikiki mentioned, so if the bulb doesn't light up when you insert it, remove it, turn the bulb 180 degrees and reinsert and it should light up.
On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult, I rate this mod a 1. If anyone who plans to do this is still unsure, let me know and I'll take pictures of the procedure and post a DIY guide.
The bulbs I got cost $5.09 for the pair through Amazon:
Amazon.com: Classy Autos 36mm Festoon 6 LEDs SMD LED Bulb White for 3021 DE3021 6411 6413 6418 DE3423 DE3425 Replacement (A Pair): Automotive
Installation is super easy...5 minutes tops. Simply unscrew the two screws from each light fixture, pull down on the feature and the bulb and housing both come out together. Switch out the bulb and orient it to face the correct direction (down) and push back in. Put the screws back in and you're done.
The bulbs above are about 1mm shorter than the factory bulb so when you insert them into the plastic harness before reinstalling them, they can wiggle abound a little. This won't pose any problem once inserted as once you push the bulbs back into the housing, the clamps will grab the bulb and grip it securely. Just make sure the bulbs are oriented properly going into the housing.
These LED's are polarity sensitive as Akikiki mentioned, so if the bulb doesn't light up when you insert it, remove it, turn the bulb 180 degrees and reinsert and it should light up.
On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult, I rate this mod a 1. If anyone who plans to do this is still unsure, let me know and I'll take pictures of the procedure and post a DIY guide.
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Yeah, that's what I said, "Switch out the bulb and orient it to face the correct direction (down) and push back in." That orient-thing.
If you must turn the bulb around, don't turn the lens around. Take it off the lens and turn it, put it back on the lens.
I dunno, this may be a 1 for a Tesla owner, but its got to be a least a 3 for an ICE driver. Ya know how them folks are. If they were smarter, well, they wouldn't be still driving an ICE.
If you must turn the bulb around, don't turn the lens around. Take it off the lens and turn it, put it back on the lens.
I dunno, this may be a 1 for a Tesla owner, but its got to be a least a 3 for an ICE driver. Ya know how them folks are. If they were smarter, well, they wouldn't be still driving an ICE.
Same for me - I bought these exact same bulbs for my MS and this was also the first mod I made. I concur with the difficulty assessment, and if you're having trouble with the bulbs turning as you stick them back in the housing, just cut a small strip of electrical tape and wrap around the plastic prongs that hold the bulb. It will help make up the 1mm difference in size and keep the bulb from turning as you stick it back in.
dsmith2189
Active Member
I also got the same bulbs. since they are shorter than the plastic tabs I just put the bulb into the socket directly and used my finger to rotate the bulb before reinstalling the lens.
I plan on applying Opti-Coat to my MS in the near future. I've got the Opti-Coat solution already--just need a full day to do it as the preparation is intense. Has anyone in Hawaii done this? I've found a thread of another MS who's had it done in the mainland.
Opti-Coat is a permanent coating that is applied directly to the clear coat and creates a permanent microscopic (2-3 micron thick) layer that is 10 x stronger that the clear coat. As such, it is much more resistant to scratches and swirl marks and it also protects against UV rays from the Sun. It is a one time application that lasts the life of the car.
The downside is the preparation...a super thorough cleaning must be performed, followed by a complete polishing (not waxing)...we're talking buffing out any and all spider webbing and fine scratches out of the clear coat so it looks factory new...then a complete degreasing of the vehicle to strip all contaminants, polish residue and any remaining wax from prior applications. Only then can Opti-Coat be applied to the entire vehicle with successful results.
Hmm...maybe this weekend. We'll see.
Opti-Coat is a permanent coating that is applied directly to the clear coat and creates a permanent microscopic (2-3 micron thick) layer that is 10 x stronger that the clear coat. As such, it is much more resistant to scratches and swirl marks and it also protects against UV rays from the Sun. It is a one time application that lasts the life of the car.
The downside is the preparation...a super thorough cleaning must be performed, followed by a complete polishing (not waxing)...we're talking buffing out any and all spider webbing and fine scratches out of the clear coat so it looks factory new...then a complete degreasing of the vehicle to strip all contaminants, polish residue and any remaining wax from prior applications. Only then can Opti-Coat be applied to the entire vehicle with successful results.
Hmm...maybe this weekend. We'll see.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Wow, that sounds like a good plan. But it also sounds like layers of work. I'd like to have a thicker shield. But I have three layers/coats of Glare on mine now.
Do I understand you correctly? Clean it, strip it, polish it then put the Opti-Coat on?
Do I understand you correctly? Clean it, strip it, polish it then put the Opti-Coat on?
NigelM
Recovering Member
This was my Roadster being done with G-techniq; and in the FL section this is a Model S done for a buddy of mine. G-tech and Opti-Coat are more or less the same concept. Just a few notes:
The Roadster took about 14hrs and Model S 15hrs by a professional who's done this many times. Hope you realize what you're taking on Matt? ;-)
Yes Akikiki, that's the process.
But...the result is amazing!....
I drove through a rainstorm last night to a Council meeting at our Church, when I got there the folks waiting for me asked how come my car was dry?!? These coatings are hydrophobic so water just runs off. I didn't even need windscreen wipers due to the aerodynamics of the Roadster.
I drove through about 15 miles of city and country roads today and then to Tampa (about 60 miles on the Interstate), when I got there someone asked me if I had come straight from the detailer. I had the car coated 10 days ago but the car was spotless, dirt doesn't stick!
Once the car is coated, IF it gets dirty then washing it is as simple as rinsing with clean water or at worst using a ph balanced soap.
Worth every penny. :-D
The Roadster took about 14hrs and Model S 15hrs by a professional who's done this many times. Hope you realize what you're taking on Matt? ;-)
Yes Akikiki, that's the process.
But...the result is amazing!....
I drove through a rainstorm last night to a Council meeting at our Church, when I got there the folks waiting for me asked how come my car was dry?!? These coatings are hydrophobic so water just runs off. I didn't even need windscreen wipers due to the aerodynamics of the Roadster.
I drove through about 15 miles of city and country roads today and then to Tampa (about 60 miles on the Interstate), when I got there someone asked me if I had come straight from the detailer. I had the car coated 10 days ago but the car was spotless, dirt doesn't stick!
Once the car is coated, IF it gets dirty then washing it is as simple as rinsing with clean water or at worst using a ph balanced soap.
Worth every penny. :-D
Thanks for the heads up Nigel. Yeah, I more or less planned to take 2 days to complete the process as a precaution, as the key to its success is proper preparation--you cannot skimp in any way. I've been educating myself online regarding the specifics for Opti-Coat, but am no stranger to detailing vehicles. I have personally detailed all of our company cars for years (and still do) as I am picky as heck and super detail oriented when it comes to that.
I'm pleased to hear that you are pleased with your decision to apply a similar product. With how much time and work will go into this, I'm glad to hear others feel it's worth it.
Akikiki, my plan is as follows:
1. Pressure wash the entire vehicle to remove all large debris and most small particles
2. Wash entire vehicle with with mild soap
3. Degrease the entire vehicle including rims and wheels
4. Wash entire vehicle with pH balanced soap
5. Rinse
6. Dry entire vehicle
7. Clay entire vehicle
8. Polish out all paint (must remove any and all webbing and fine scratches)
9. Wash entire vehicle in blended alcohol bath :scared:
10. Dry and final inspection
11. Apply Opti-Coat
12. Recover...
I'm pleased to hear that you are pleased with your decision to apply a similar product. With how much time and work will go into this, I'm glad to hear others feel it's worth it.
Akikiki, my plan is as follows:
1. Pressure wash the entire vehicle to remove all large debris and most small particles
2. Wash entire vehicle with with mild soap
3. Degrease the entire vehicle including rims and wheels
4. Wash entire vehicle with pH balanced soap
5. Rinse
6. Dry entire vehicle
7. Clay entire vehicle
8. Polish out all paint (must remove any and all webbing and fine scratches)
9. Wash entire vehicle in blended alcohol bath :scared:
10. Dry and final inspection
11. Apply Opti-Coat
12. Recover...
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Beer. BEER !! Where's the step that includes the Adult Beverages?
But really, pressure wash? I don't have the nerve to guess out loud what you pressure wash. I need you to say it. What part do you pressure wash???
But really, pressure wash? I don't have the nerve to guess out loud what you pressure wash. I need you to say it. What part do you pressure wash???
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