So on 2019.40.21 it appears switching from HDMI input to rear camera causes the whole MCU to blank for about 2-3 seconds. It's not a reboot, it's just like the screen is waking up from entering the car. I verified that the AP stalk method of switching also triggers the same behavior. Is it possible the car is responding to that CANbus input being sent across intentionally?
Interesting. Does anyone else have any issues with this box and the latest update? Is it just a longer delay than usual? Anything else going on with the kit and the latest software? I was considering getting this.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@Supra, I've noticed the same considerable delay on my S too. When I have the front cam up, and shift to reverse, the lag on the response time from rear, and back to front is 2-3 seconds now. Wasn't like this until 40.2.1 So, I guess we know its impacting both HDMI switch and Front Cam kit switch users.
I have 40.2.3 queued for update now, but I've been holding off because it supposedly kills cold-weather regen and efficiency. Wondering if it is all the 40.2.x updates. I've noticed the general delay in switching as well, even without the screen blanking issue.
mbhforum
Active Member
I am selling my kit since I am trading in my car. I am asking $350 plus shipping. If anyone is interested, please PM me.
I've got a question, in hopes that maybe someone knows how to solve the issue I'm having.
I connected an amazon firetv stick to my hdmi input. I hid the cabling and firestick behind the panels and everything looks tidy. However;
Problem #1: I can't pair Tesla bluetooth to firestick tv bluetooth out. (although works fine with my bluetooth speaker)
Problem #2: I got a 2.4A 12V adapter, should be enough with firestick tv's usb power requirements. However it works fine when parked, when driving it freezes completely and needs a reset every 5 minutes. Can't figure out if this is because of not enough power or because of a shaky ride. Couldn't find a correlation.
I know I'm a very edge case here but you can't really Google these. Just wanted to share to get your opinion, also maybe discuss a solution.
I connected an amazon firetv stick to my hdmi input. I hid the cabling and firestick behind the panels and everything looks tidy. However;
Problem #1: I can't pair Tesla bluetooth to firestick tv bluetooth out. (although works fine with my bluetooth speaker)
Problem #2: I got a 2.4A 12V adapter, should be enough with firestick tv's usb power requirements. However it works fine when parked, when driving it freezes completely and needs a reset every 5 minutes. Can't figure out if this is because of not enough power or because of a shaky ride. Couldn't find a correlation.
I know I'm a very edge case here but you can't really Google these. Just wanted to share to get your opinion, also maybe discuss a solution.
I can't say I can answer your questions but connecting via bt is not the best idea. There is an audio sync issue.
For the USB problem, try using a battery pack to see the source of the issue.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Well, if it follows what has been reported before. If its like what other SC's have done - no. and no.
A few other people that had this or the 360 bird's eye view or front camera switch kit, they just ignored it.
I don't have it handy, but there are laws/rules in the U.S. regarding after market stuff like this. They can't void your warranty. They don't have to support it. They might even just ignore it and not hook it up the way you had it hooked up but its highly unlikely they will damage it or even try to void your warranty.
If I were there and they said they were going to void your warranty, I personally would not argue with them. I would not debate it and I would not say okay either. Just shrug or something like "I hear you". Doesn't mean you accept.
They might remove it, in order to be sure what they are doing is working. Its probably going to be the first one they have seen, so they are likely to be more confused that upset to see it. You might do a write up on hard copy and stuff it under the cubby with something that will get their attention, to open it and read. You might ask them to leave it hooked up and not unplug it. But if they must, you understand. Just because you tell the SA something does not mean the Tech is going to know about it.
There's a long story on the Tesla forum about a guy that installed a big Neus or Light Harmonic amp in his. His DC-DC inverter went out. They blamed his big amp, he argued and lost. He had to pay to get the repair. They made him sign a warranty waiver else they would not work on the car if it was still there. You might want to go search for it and read it. Might help you understand. - what they could do if they want to make a argument out of it. The owner was threatening to take them to court over it. Many people told him, it would cost him far more than the cost of the repair.
A few other people that had this or the 360 bird's eye view or front camera switch kit, they just ignored it.
I don't have it handy, but there are laws/rules in the U.S. regarding after market stuff like this. They can't void your warranty. They don't have to support it. They might even just ignore it and not hook it up the way you had it hooked up but its highly unlikely they will damage it or even try to void your warranty.
If I were there and they said they were going to void your warranty, I personally would not argue with them. I would not debate it and I would not say okay either. Just shrug or something like "I hear you". Doesn't mean you accept.
They might remove it, in order to be sure what they are doing is working. Its probably going to be the first one they have seen, so they are likely to be more confused that upset to see it. You might do a write up on hard copy and stuff it under the cubby with something that will get their attention, to open it and read. You might ask them to leave it hooked up and not unplug it. But if they must, you understand. Just because you tell the SA something does not mean the Tech is going to know about it.
There's a long story on the Tesla forum about a guy that installed a big Neus or Light Harmonic amp in his. His DC-DC inverter went out. They blamed his big amp, he argued and lost. He had to pay to get the repair. They made him sign a warranty waiver else they would not work on the car if it was still there. You might want to go search for it and read it. Might help you understand. - what they could do if they want to make a argument out of it. The owner was threatening to take them to court over it. Many people told him, it would cost him far more than the cost of the repair.
Thanks, this is informative.
If you are in my spot, having the MCU1 failure, what would you do?
Remove it first to avoid the trouble or just leave it?
Remove it and don’t let them have a reason to frustrate you.
Duke-U
Member
I had mine in for service and since I paid for FSD they might do the AP computer swap. I did remove the wiring to the AP computer and the MCU, and restored the original setup. I did leave the unit and CAN decoder in there, but it was no longer connected to anything so there is no argument. They didn’t bring it up, either did not see it or ignored it.
Eventually I did not get the FSD unit because “the car has a MCU1, and we can’t do those yet”. Bummer, we in EU get all these nice goodies months later....
Eventually I did not get the FSD unit because “the car has a MCU1, and we can’t do those yet”. Bummer, we in EU get all these nice goodies months later....
One of my friends has a HDMI switch, during the AP3 HW hardware grade, deployment failed. Ranger and SC blamed the switch and made him remove it to only continue to fail. Then they blamed the 3rd party emmc chip and wanted him to replace the mcu. I told him to get his car out of there and bring it over. We found the Ranger and SC failed to update the config for HW3 causing the deployment failures. Tesla service is getting to be a real pain to work with at times.
I thought I knew what signal levels were required to make this box switch the HDMI to the MS.
I cannot use the Blue ODB2 box, because it interferes with the Open Pilot signal to activate.
They are the exact same command. So I know the 12vdc and GND.
But the other 2 signals anyone know what is required.?
The Control signal and trigger signal is what I need.
I cannot use the Blue ODB2 box, because it interferes with the Open Pilot signal to activate.
They are the exact same command. So I know the 12vdc and GND.
But the other 2 signals anyone know what is required.?
The Control signal and trigger signal is what I need.
jobiggs24
Member
I had high hopes to have both OP and the HDMI Switcher. I guess I can still have hopes that the relay will work
Hi all.
Anyone tried getting the adapter from this site??
Tesla Model S and X Smartphone Mirroring Kit
Anyone tried getting the adapter from this site??
Tesla Model S and X Smartphone Mirroring Kit
