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Heat / HVAC on 7.0 - poor performance?

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Many heat pumps have a reversing valve rather than a reversible compressor.

The car will have to be disassembled, or listen for the compressor running when the heat is on but defrost is not.

There is value in a heat pump. At reasonable outside temps, can heat at 3x the efficiency. Still need resistive backup of course.

I would be very happy if the Model S was able to use the heat pump for heating. Here in Sydney it never gets very cold, so the heat pump should be good enough all winter.
 
Ok
here is the new disaster report
ac works great
but software boys must be the same as from windows 10.
took 5 minutes to switch from ac to heat. current draw from wall
24 amps because I left it plugged in to get these readings.
only on HI was heat ok.
confirmed Compressor running full blast on HI heat
feel the vibration in steering wheel and can also hear it ramp up
put my hand trough open left and right vents in front of car
on the little Radiators.
confirmed they were warm (total energy loss here
because they should have been cold if we had a
heat pump, Most of us already Knew that.
We need an emergency update for them to fix this
People in colder climates must really be suffering.
Major blunder here !!
 
Last edited:
Ok
here is the new disaster report
ac works great
but software boys must be the same as from windows 10.
took 5 minutes to switch from ac to heat. current draw from wall
24 amps because I left it plugged in to get these readings.
only on HI was heat ok.
confirmed Compressor running full blast on HI heat
feel the vibration in steering wheel and can also hear it ramp up
put my hand trough open left and right vents in front of car
on the little Radiators.
confirmed they were warm (total energy loss here
because they should have been cold if we had a
heat pump, Most of us already Knew that.
We need an emergency update for them to fix this
People in colder climates must really be suffering.
Major blunder here !!

Major bug, or working in heat pump mode. Check the condenser to see if it's cold/cold air is coming out.
 
Ok
here is the new disaster report
ac works great
but software boys must be the same as from windows 10.
took 5 minutes to switch from ac to heat. current draw from wall
24 amps because I left it plugged in to get these readings.
only on HI was heat ok.
confirmed Compressor running full blast on HI heat
feel the vibration in steering wheel and can also hear it ramp up
put my hand trough open left and right vents in front of car
on the little Radiators.
confirmed they were warm (total energy loss here
because they should have been cold if we had a
heat pump, Most of us already Knew that.
We need an emergency update for them to fix this
People in colder climates must really be suffering.
Major blunder here !!

Strange, I did not experience anything like that yet. On 7.0 and its 35F tp 55F outside these day over here... Heat is quick as before.

Only difference I see is regarding the setpoint, if you set 70F you get that. Even if its cold outside and the car is at 71F it will aggressively cool to 70F. Before it would just overshoot above and do nothing. So basically I am using a slightly higher setpoint and it respects it vigorously. It looks like setting to "Range Mode" will works more like before and less aggressively cool to target temperature.

Pretty happy with the performance. On 6.2 it was resting many degree above the setpoint and it was annoying.
 
Pretty happy with the performance. On 6.2 it was resting many degree above the setpoint and it was annoying.

Yeah. I used to keep it at 67 F just so that the car would come to rest at 72 F. Now 72 F seems to give me 72 F. Similar temps here lately (35 to 55 F) but what I find is that on long-ish drives, the car actually seems to creep down in temperature as I drive. I notice my legs getting cold. The fan will have dropped right down to 1 or 2. I then have to bump the fan speed up a bit and maybe even have to bump the temp up a bit just to maintain comfort.
 
There was a running change shortly after I got my car (May '13) to add a "respirator" under the center armrest that draws cabin air in past a relocated temp sensor.

Earlier cars (like mine) apparently have the temp sensor somewhere else (steering column near dash?) and it seems to not perform well there, as I also find I have to offset my HVAC controls by ~4 degrees to get the temp I want.

I wonder if this firmware has a separate calibration for the older sensor configurations that attempts to correct for this?
 
There was a running change shortly after I got my car (May '13) to add a "respirator" under the center armrest that draws cabin air in past a relocated temp sensor.

Earlier cars (like mine) apparently have the temp sensor somewhere else (steering column near dash?) and it seems to not perform well there, as I also find I have to offset my HVAC controls by ~4 degrees to get the temp I want.

I wonder if this firmware has a separate calibration for the older sensor configurations that attempts to correct for this?

I wondered that too. (Mine is also a "pre-aspirator" car). Seems almost everyone with the older sensor setups had this setpoint/actual discrepancy.

That is very possible, my Classic was built in Nov 2013 and has the aspirator under the armrest.
 
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I assume you meant "arm"rest :smile: My March 2013 car does not have it there and I believe just has a non-aspirated sensor somewhere behind the dash near the steering wheel.

Oops, yes :)

I guess there were a reason they made the change. I don't remember if you already mention it, but did you ever asked for the new sensor ? I don't know if they do replace it on request or not...
 
I guess there were a reason they made the change. I don't remember if you already mention it, but did you ever asked for the new sensor ? I don't know if they do replace it on request or not...

I doubt it's retro-fittable and never asked. It would involve a new center console (with the openings) sensor, aspirator fan, wiring harnesses etc. etc.
 
Further observations: Quite a bit colder this morning (around 35 F) and I didn't pre-heat the car. What I observed is that I could feel the heat coming in, but the fan only was running at 2. Most cars will ramp the fan up quite high, then throttle it back as the car warms up. Not sure what the benefit of keeping the fan speed so low is, but it's not really working for me. I do keep my right scroll wheel set to control the fan, and I find more often than not I have to scroll it up to a more acceptable level.
 
So in essence, people are seeing that while they improved the cooling performance, Tesla hampered the heating performance. Perhaps the revised set point algorithms can determine if cooling or heating are needed and use 7.0-style cooling and 6.2-style heating as appropriate?
 
So in essence, people are seeing that while they improved the cooling performance, Tesla hampered the heating performance. Perhaps the revised set point algorithms can determine if cooling or heating are needed and use 7.0-style cooling and 6.2-style heating as appropriate?

It looks a bit more complicated than that because 7.0-style heating works great on my car. And its getting colder and colder outside over here, at or near freezing point outside.