HELP! Getting 0-1kw from 200 amp service on 110v

[RayK]

Actually I am an old-timer as well. I agree, some folks refer to 117.

Way back when, in the pre-internet , pre-home PC days, I understood that the voltage coming out of the wall was an average of 117VAC Could be more, could be less. I just checked the outlet next to me with a supposedly True RMS voltmeter and it reads 121.7VAC. I personally will accept anything from 110V to 125V when people talk about USA mains voltage but if somebody says it's 100V or 108V, I'll correct them.

 

[jjrandorin]

On the "shared neutral handle tie" discussion, relevant to the story I relayed earlier in this thread, here is what it looks like in my backup loads panel. The red numbers on the breakers are from the chart I talked about earlier. It was like 1 = 22, 3 = 23 (breaker 1 in old panel = 22 in new panel, breaker 3 in old panel = 23 in new, .. with those numbers just made up).

I went through and re labeled everything though. Makes it very handy if I need to just turn off a circuit that has a specific thing on it. I highly recommend homeowners consider taking the time to label it this way. Takes some checking with a circuit tester, but I love having this info next to the breaker.

 

[RayK]

I haven't gotten around to re-labeling my breaker panel. Instead, I made good use of my Epson label maker and have done this to almost all my switch plates, outlets and appliances in my house:

 

[DeltaOne]

I haven't gotten around to re-labeling my breaker panel. Instead, I made good use of my Epson label maker and have done this to almost all my switch plates, outlets and appliances in my house:

I like those labels!

I did the opposite...after my NEMA 14-50 was installed I spent a few hours creating and printing an up to date printed label for my breaker panel. A few of the breakers control lights/switches in two or more rooms so I created a little "cheat sheet" that identifies as much of that stuff as I could.

On the old breaker panel label about eight breakers were labeled "general lighting." Sheesh.

 

[jjrandorin]

I like those labels!

I did the opposite...after my NEMA 14-50 was installed I spent a few hours creating and printing an up to date printed label for my breaker panel. A few of the breakers control lights/switches in two or more rooms so I created a little "cheat sheet" that identifies as much of that stuff as I could.

On the old breaker panel label about eight breakers were labeled "general lighting." Sheesh.

Yeah, I cropped it out of my pic above but you can see a bit to the right in the picture I uploaded. Every breaker in my panel has a label with a description of whats on it, in as much detail as I could fit next to the breaker, with commas inbetween the various things like "Kitchen Island, and breakfast nook" or "kitchen main counter", ect. @RayK ,way works too, its just more visible inside.

 

[RayK]

Okay, just to prove to y'all how anal I am....

It's from a PowerPoint file I made. It shows the location of all the switches (S), outlets (O) and (outside) lights (L) of my house. Only a couple of the lights have not been identified. And there's at least one outlet that's currently blocked by a series of bookcases but I have a good idea which breaker it's assigned to.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

Use the three wire Romex (red/black/white) for the run to the first junction box (at least). Simple! I have no idea how you reliably make sure the neutral doesn't get overloaded though because you have to be very careful about which phase is which in the breaker box...

That's crazy! I had no idea people did that! I can't imagine how this could ever make sense. First, the 3-conductor Romex is disproportionally more expensive because it's less common so it's barely any cheaper than two 2-conductor cables. Second, it's harder to pull/bend and requires larger holes, staples, clamps and even junction box volumes. Third, you have to make sure it's fed from different phases as you mentioned. And after all that, you still have to wire-nut a bunch of stuff to tie in the 2-conductor cable to run to the second box. Sheesh!

 

[Red Herring]

I have he same problem as O, only getting 4/12 A

 

[jjrandorin]

I have he same problem as O, only getting 4/12 A

With the same likely issue, of not being a dedicated circuit, as mentioned in the thread you started on this.