Help: I Can't Connect the Connector Under the Glove Box.

[arjunprabhu]

Did first cabin filter replacement today. While doing so, noticed one of the 4 plastic clips that attaches the lock plate under the glove box was missing (only 3 of 4 holding it in place). Upon remove this plate/cover, I noticed the speaker wire in my car wasn’t even connected though the light was. Occurred to me this must’ve happened when mobile service replaced my glove box shortly after first receiving the car. At any rate, seems this speaker hasn’t been connected, am not sure what it does or if I’ll miss it (esp considering it hasn’t been connected since I’ve owned the car)?

its an emergency speaker, when rest of your system is offline, this speaker works.

I put the car on autopilot and rebooted it (while driving) and did not touch the steering..., and let the car beep (while the display was rebooting). I cloud hear the beeps come via this speaker (its not the normal frequency/tone beeps that you otherwise hear, its a bit different.).

--- btw, this test was done in a street with no traffic - in a safe condition.

 

[bo3bdar]

@Kirby64 @chronopc

I snapped the emergency speaker connector a few weeks ago as well. Tesla doesn't sell the harness end connectors, and there is no part number marking on the connector, just a Delphi and material marking. I spent considerable time sifting through the Delphi catalogs and eventually found it, it's Delphi (now Aptiv) P/N 13543877.

View attachment 470806 View attachment 470812 View attachment 470808 View attachment 470809 View attachment 470813

I ended up repairing it with the correct connector, but don't know how to check it's functioning. My understanding from the little information I could find on it was that it's used to annunciate Autopilot system chimes when the MCU is down. I checked this in broken state by resetting my MCU and then engaging and disengaging AP while the screen was still black - no chimes. After 'repairing' the speaker connection, I still don't get any AP chimes while the screen is rebooting...now i'm questioning my repair or when this speaker makes sounds.

Anybody know exactly when this emergency speaker should sound.

Thank you kindly for those pictures- I just did that exact same thing when trying to remove that plug. The videos I watched, they just pulled it out without any trouble, but mine was also completely wedged and cracked in the middle and then slid up the wires.

It doesn't really solve the problem for me, but it helps assuage my guilt about breaking the connector, to know that others have run into it as well. :-> I have no idea how anyone could get that out on my car without breaking it.

BTW- once the connector is broken, how did you all get the wires out? Just pull until you have bare ferrules and the plastic bit stuck in the speaker?

 

[bo3bdar]

Here's what mine looks like for reference.

I just cut off the wires further up the cable.

Try as I might, I cannot get those wires or the rest of the plug out of the socket. I even thrashed the socket with a small screwdriver. Really not sure what's the hangup there. I think I'll just add wire nuts or a connector at the snip point. Or possibly just leave it disconnected.

 

[G78M3]

Well I am glad I found this thread. After removing the panel to change the air filter, the speaker connector practically broke itself when trying to disconnect it, not sure if it was already half-broken by the service center last time I took it, or simply a just a very poor quality connector.

To solve it I was able to fit a different connector recycled from an old electronics box, and soldered it to the cables. The pictures above helped with polarity! Then did the autopilot trick described above to test the speaker, and it came to life asking me to take the wheel. At last I now know what this speaker is for.

 

[jrtozer]

Today I got the connector from ecstuning dot com. It matches the factory connector. Next step is to install it.

Thanks for this great info. I also bought the replacement connector from ecstuning, but I don't know how to crimp the bare source wires into it. Is there a trick to how these connectors work? Do I just push the bare wire in the end of the connector and something will close on it, or do I need to crimp something once the wires are in? Thanks for any advice.

 

[yoyoyojoe]

@SanteeMike My 2 cents is that I looked at it very closely and had similar thinking, but honestly it does not look like the mechanism is designed to help release it.

Btw, I'm actually not sure if I'll be capable to find the right cable, connector, and extend the cable like I thought. I'm purchasing the connector from ECS Tuning and will just use a plier (or 2) and more caution and patience when putting it back in and removing it next time. Will report back if I can get some good pictures.

I ended up just replacing the connector (without messing with the cables). I got the from and it worked well. Thanks for all your help! Next time I might try to leave it disconnected to see if it makes the alarm sound less annoying...

I was able to find the part with ECS Tuning (ES#: 2721640 Mfg#: 0255452726).

 

[yoyoyojoe]

@SanteeMike My 2 cents is that I looked at it very closely and had similar thinking, but honestly it does not look like the mechanism is designed to help release it.

Btw, I'm actually not sure if I'll be capable to find the right cable, connector, and extend the cable like I thought. I'm purchasing the connector from ECS Tuning and will just use a plier (or 2) and more caution and patience when putting it back in and removing it next time. Will report back if I can get some good pictures.

I was able to find the parts on ECS Tuning and I ended up not doing any mods and just put it back in.
It's called CLUTCH (Mfg Part #0255452726ECS Part #ES#2721640).

CLUTCH

CLUTCH (Mfg#0255452726).

www.ecstuning.com

 

[TomT]

By the way, it is a speaker so polarity of the wires is completely unimportant.

 

[JPeezy]

Thanks for this great info. I also bought the replacement connector from ecstuning, but I don't know how to crimp the bare source wires into it. Is there a trick to how these connectors work? Do I just push the bare wire in the end of the connector and something will close on it, or do I need to crimp something once the wires are in? Thanks for any advice.

I’m wondering the same thing. I bought the connectors also but haven’t put it together yet. Did you end up putting the bare wire in?

 

[jrtozer]

I’m wondering the same thing. I bought the connectors also but haven’t put it together yet. Did you end up putting the bare wire in?

I haven't done anything yet with the new connector yet. I was hoping I might receive some advice about how to secure the wires in the connector before proceeding...

 

[Jason Sprain]

So I had the same issue. Broke the connector removing the panel to get at the cabin filters. Long story short, I identified the crimp terminals and connector as standard TE Connectivity parts. 1355717-1 and 1-1718333-1 respectively. Readily available at digikey. Crimping the terminals on was a PITA but doable with some reading glasses. I did it with an electrical pliers.

 

[SirBaymax]

Thanks @Jason Sprain for the info on where to buy. Parts were very affordable and shipping was quick. All the parts worked. Originally Tesla ordered an entire wire harness set for all the wires down there. However when I showed the technician the parts I bought, they only charged $35 in labour to repair the wiring.

 

[f308gt4]

Decided to change the filter on my Model 3 today, and had the same thing happen with the speaker connector. Damn. Ordered one from ECS tuning, but I may just try to solder it in instead. I did get the eBay thumbscrew, so next time, the filter replacement will be easier.

I still can’t believe how much of a PITA it is to change the filter on this car. I changed it on my sons Hyundai Ioniq and it was so easy to do. The guy who designed this on the Model 3 needs to be shot (Ok, just kidding, but seriously, could they make it any more difficult?).

 

[bo3bdar]

For what it's worth, I fixed mine by just splicing the wires using wire nuts. I could never get the wires out of the connector at all, so I just left them in place, and spliced the ends. I tested the speaker to be sure I didn't damage the wiring before reinstalling. I wrapped the nuts with friction tape so they won't bang around or loosen up. These wires are 22 AWG (0.35mm cross sectional area).

 

[hcdavis3]

By the way, it is a speaker so polarity of the wires is completely unimportant.

If you’re concerned about phase with others speakers. It is very important.

 

[todd2fst4u]

If you’re concerned about phase with others speakers. It is very important.

This speaker isn’t used in conjunction with any of the other speakers. It’s an emergency alert speaker that is only used if the other speakers are not working.

 

[dgknight]

So glad I found this thread. Makes me feel less of an idiot. I tried to release this clip per the youtube instructions but it ripped apart as I pulled on it. Glad the speaker is generally not used, but do want to reconnect it.

Have ordered the digikey parts, but may try to splice together a better connector in the line too, as I know I’ll be in there again at some point for the AC smell again, and don’t want to deal with this flimsy connector again if I can help it.

If I find a clean solution I’ll post up.

 

[bo3bdar]

Nice one, thanks for that link. Worth the $10 for everything all ready to go. Instead of the snap connectors, I think a better choice for him would be the Wago connectors, because they are easy to take on/off.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-Lever-Nuts-Electrical-Improvement/dp/B094DLHQ7T/ref=pd_bxgy_img_1/133-7926399-1456600

You know you've got a design flaw when someone puts together a kit to fix all the failing connectors.

 

[superT3]

Nice one, thanks for that link. Worth the $10 for everything all ready to go. Instead of the snap connectors, I think a better choice for him would be the Wago connectors, because they are easy to take on/off.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-Lever-Nuts-Electrical-Improvement/dp/B094DLHQ7T/ref=pd_bxgy_img_1/133-7926399-1456600

You know you've got a design flaw when someone puts together a kit to fix all the failing connectors.

Yep, that would be an improvement

 

[dgknight]

Repaired mine by using one of these - Nilight - 50020R 2Pin Way 16AWG... Amazon.com

Its a bit heavy-duty, but gives me a nice easy way to disconnect for future filter swaps.

On the “speaker end” I tinned the wires, and soldered it directly to the speaker solder blobs, bypassing that flimsy oem connector.

On the “car end I was struggling to solder without setting the car on fire, so used some of those blue wire taps for now. I’ll probably go back and solder at some point.

Confirmed the speaker works by doing the autopilot + reboot trick. Its surprising to me that the blinker tick etc are not rerouted through that speaker, but the “autopilot nag” sound is a good test.

Thanks all for an excellent thread.