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Help installing wheels with centering rings

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I got a set of wheels and winter tires from tirerack. They included aluminum centering rings with the wheels. They told me that the part number for the rings are AL641, which I assume means they have a 64.1mm center bore. And that matches what I would expect as that is the hub size of the M3. However I can't seem to get the rings to fit on the hub. It is incredibly close, to the point where I feel if I tapped it with a hammer I could get it on, but then I'd be concerned that I wouldn't be able to get it off again. Has anyone else had an experience like this or have any suggestions?

I already contacted tirerack, and they assumed I been sent the wrong rings, but the new set they sent me were no different.
 
I would use some fine sandpaper, maybe 400 grit, hitting the edges first, and then the "barrel surface" of the rings, if the edges didn't hack it. I bet it wouldn't take more than a minute or two... Then I would clean them with a paper towel dampened with just a pfft of WD-40 and then a dry paper towel to make sure all sanding dust is removed.

I don't recommend you do this to your car. I'm just telling you what I would do. Especially if I had two sets of rings to dick around with.
 
Which flavor of Model 3 do you have? Rear wheel drive? All wheel drive? Performance? Performance with the Performance Upgrade Package?

RWD

You installed the rings in the wheels before mounting on to the hub right? Little taps around the edge in a circle is totally fine, but don't bang the thing in too hard.

I first tried with the rings installed in the wheels. When i couldn't get the wheel to sit flush, I took the ring out of the wheel and just tried to get the ring on the hub itself and couldn't. When you say little taps around the edge, are you saying around the edge of the wheel? Since you implied the rings should be in the wheels first?

I would use some fine sandpaper, maybe 400 grit, hitting the edges first, and then the "barrel surface" of the rings, if the edges didn't hack it. I bet it wouldn't take more than a minute or two... Then I would clean them with a paper towel dampened with just a pfft of WD-40 and then a dry paper towel to make sure all sanding dust is removed.

I don't recommend you do this to your car. I'm just telling you what I would do. Especially if I had two sets of rings to dick around with.

Yeah, I might try that. I was also thinking maybe I should get some plastic rings instead. That way I can feel more comfortable "encouraging" them onto the hub, as if I had to i could just cut them off in the spring much easier than the aluminum ones.
 
I just heard back from TireRack support. I had asked the question as to if a centering ring was really necessary, since the wheel has tapered lug holes, and the lugs are tapered as well. He said that as long as there's no weight on the wheel when torquing the lugs down, it is fine to not have a ring on there. I was a little surprised to get that answer, but it also makes sense given the wheel and lugs.

In the meantime he is still looking into the issue with their technical support.
 
I just heard back from TireRack support. I had asked the question as to if a centering ring was really necessary, since the wheel has tapered lug holes, and the lugs are tapered as well. He said that as long as there's no weight on the wheel when torquing the lugs down, it is fine to not have a ring on there. I was a little surprised to get that answer, but it also makes sense given the wheel and lugs.

In the meantime he is still looking into the issue with their technical support.

Please don't do that. The wheels (and the car) are designed to take vertical loads through the hub ring, not through the lug studs, which is what will happen if you don't use the centering ring.

Two methods that will work pretty good:

1. The sandpaper method above -- lightly sand the inside of the centering rings with 400 grit, then clean and lubricate -- they'll go on. The only problem with this method is getting an even and consistent sanding.

2. This is an old trick we used to use to put bearings on a motor shaft when we rebuilt electrical motors in the Navy. Heat your kitchen oven to about 200 degrees F. Once it's up to temperature, put the centering rings in there. Get two potholders that are large enough to fully cover the centering rings, and a 3rd potholder that you can hold onto. Put the first two potholders in the oven along with the centering rings. Leave the centering rings and the potholders in there for about an hour.

Get the car ready for the centering ring installation, wheel removed, up on the jackstand, and close to the house, preferably in the garage.

Do all of this in one shot because you need to do it quickly to avoid the centering ring cooling down before you can get it on the car: Quickly take the centering ring out of the oven and make a "sandwich" of the two potholders that were in the oven and a centering ring, i.e. potholder, centering ring, and potholder stacked together. Then use your 3rd potholder to take the entire sandwich out to the car. This is to prevent the centering ring from cooling down. Now in one quick move, take the centering ring out of the sandwich and put it directly over the hub all the way using leather gloves.

The heat of the oven causes the centering ring to expand, so it will fit. Be aware that as soon as the centering ring touches the hub of the car it will cool down and shrink, so you need to get it positioned correctly on the first shot. If you don't, it'll shrink and tighten in whatever potition you have it, and it'll be difficult to remove without damaging it.
 
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I too am a little skeptical of not using the rings, as that is not what I had read elsewhere online. And like I said, I was surprised to get that guidance, as I figure they wouldn't want to recommend an installation that was possibly unsafe in any way due to liabilities. But, I also thought that neither lugs nor the hub are really supporting the car, it is the massive friction between the wheel and the hub from the torque you put on the lugs. And that in either case, either the hub, or the lugs are there to center the wheel, but once centered and tight, it's really the friction that takes the load.

#2 won't work for me as I swap my winter wheels every season, so I need to be able to easily put the stock wheels back on every spring.
 
I#2 won't work for me as I swap my winter wheels every season, so I need to be able to easily put the stock wheels back on every spring.

Gotcha. Well, you can either do the sanding, or try to find another set of centering rings from a different manufacturer. A different manufacturer probably will have different tolerances and they may go on much easier.
 
Idea is not to fix these rings too tight on the Hub. Once you do that, you would not be able to fit regular wheels without cutting off the centering ring.
I agree kbecks and Oyster Bait suggestion. Tap these into wheel first, sand the inside and edges. If I remember correctly these are aluminum rings, so it should not be too hard to sand.

Bottom line, you want these rings to fit tightly in the wheel, not tightly on the Hub.

I also liked the suggestion of using plastic centering rings. These even if they fit tightly on the hub, it is easy to cut those off.

But like Tirerack mentioned, Tesla has centering nuts, so if we tighten the lug nuts sequentially without load, they automatically centered and load is on the lug bolts anyways, not on little overlapping Hub ring.

Despite that, I would still use Centering rings to avoid any doubts.