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Help verifying my setup with Wall Charger

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Hello.

i plan on getting the $400 wall charger after i take delivery for my Model Y.

I have a 200Amps panel (Only 1 panel) and I plan on getting THHN with 4 wires (Black/Red/Green/White) and run it through a 1" (Or 3/4") conduit from Panel into the garage. The wire will probably around 50 -60 feet in length. The Black and Red and white will be a 6 awg wire, while the Green will be a 10awg wire. I will be putting a 60A breaker into my electrical panel. Yes i know wall charger will not need the white neutral wire and i will simply just cap it off on both ends and not used. Reason for doing this is to future proof it, incase my Wall Charger breaks down..etc.. and I can change it into a 14-50 Plug one day.

Is there any issues/safety concerns with my targeted setup above?

thanks.
 
You have not done a load calculation re your 200 amp service panel so there is no way to say whether there is sufficient capacity to add a 60 amp circuit. There probably is but just stating you have 200 amp service isn't enough information.

Tightening 6 gauge wire connections at the breaker and at the Tesla Wall Connector terminals is not like installing a light switch or a 120V receptacle. You need to know, from experience, how much to tighten these connections or else use a mini torque wrench.
 
Hello.

i plan on getting the $400 wall charger after i take delivery for my Model Y.

I have a 200Amps panel (Only 1 panel) and I plan on getting THHN with 4 wires (Black/Red/Green/White) and run it through a 1" (Or 3/4") conduit from Panel into the garage. The wire will probably around 50 -60 feet in length. The Black and Red and white will be a 6 awg wire, while the Green will be a 10awg wire. I will be putting a 60A breaker into my electrical panel. Yes i know wall charger will not need the white neutral wire and i will simply just cap it off on both ends and not used. Reason for doing this is to future proof it, incase my Wall Charger breaks down..etc.. and I can change it into a 14-50 Plug one day.

Is there any issues/safety concerns with my targeted setup above?

thanks.
Just curious ... if U knew for sure that your MY is coming , just a matter of time. why wait AFTER delivery to install the $400 wall charger?
 
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You have not done a load calculation re your 200 amp service panel so there is no way to say whether there is sufficient capacity to add a 60 amp circuit. There probably is but just stating you have 200 amp service isn't enough information.

Tightening 6 gauge wire connections at the breaker and at the Tesla Wall Connector terminals is not like installing a light switch or a 120V receptacle. You need to know, from experience, how much to tighten these connections or else use a mini torque wrench.
Hello. I have empty slots in the panel but you are right I did not do load calculation. I was going by the assumption that normal load usage will not exceed 200a. But I do not know what’s the average daily consumption. Or peaked.

How do I do that?
 
Just curious ... if U knew for sure that your MY is coming , just a matter of time. why wait AFTER delivery to install the $400 wall charger?
Because as of 2 days ago my edd was 5 months later. And it changed to next week with vin just yesterday. My edd has been flowing for 9 months since last year sept, to a point I thought I may be cancelling if I don’t get it by 1 year mark.
 
If you're running conduit there's no reason to run the white wire now (definitely run the 1" conduit, that is cheap insurance). Save yourself some money and run it in the future when you need it.

Also in the future you could just replace the wall connector with a 6-50 outlet which doesn't require the neutral (you'd also have to change the breaker to 50AMP for either the 14-50 or 6-50).
 
Hello. I have empty slots in the panel but you are right I did not do load calculation. I was going by the assumption that normal load usage will not exceed 200a. But I do not know what’s the average daily consumption. Or peaked.

How do I do that?
Well you could hire a licensed electrician. There are also load calculation worksheets you can fill out to help determine the total load of all of the electrical appliances in the home. Each piece of equipment has a label or plate affixed that lists the power consumption of the unit. The major appliances are all 240 Volt. There would include the heat pump/AC compressor, hot water heater, electric range/oven, pool water filtration pumps, electric clothes dryer. Then you account for the number of rooms in the home, for lighting and other equipment in the home.
 
If you're running conduit there's no reason to run the white wire now (definitely run the 1" conduit, that is cheap insurance). Save yourself some money and run it in the future when you need it.

Also in the future you could just replace the wall connector with a 6-50 outlet which doesn't require the neutral (you'd also have to change the breaker to 50AMP for either the 14-50 or 6-50).
This. I wouldn’t bother pulling a neutral wire. If you want a 14-50 later you will need to replace the breaker with a 50 amp (60 amp is too much).

Honestly though if your using it for an EV charger you will never want a 14-50 there because you will also need to change the breaker out to GFCI in order to meet code. The wall connector and any future EV charger you install should be hard wired for many reasons.
 
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You don't need a white (neutral) wire for charging any electric car. Save some money and leave it out.

There is a very low chance that 200 amps is not enough for your situation unless you're running a clothes dryer, two A/C units, a stove with all of the burners on and the oven, an electric water heater at 100%, some hot plates in the dining room, and maybe 4-7 window air conditioners.

If there's any question, just set the car to charge at 12AM-7AM. No way your house is using more than 152 amps at night.
 
Also, many folks forget about doing the load calculations. The load on a 200 amp panel really depends on a lot of factors. A big one being the size of the home. Larger homes tend to have sub panels. Another factor is heating fuel, cooking fuel, etc. heat pumps often have resistance coils for emergency heat which draw a lot of energy. Obviously if your heating, cooking, and drying with all electric then it’s possible you may be drawing too much. 160 amps is what you want to stay under. A tripping main breaker is an unsafe situation and means your way overloaded.

As an example I have 200 amp service with a basement sub panel. My 2nd floor is a heat pump with resistance backup but I cook, heat water, and heat the main level with propane.

If practical I also like the idea of scheduling charging between the hours of 11pm-7am. Another option is also to lower the max output of the charger.
 
Hello.

i plan on getting the $400 wall charger after i take delivery for my Model Y.

I have a 200Amps panel (Only 1 panel) and I plan on getting THHN with 4 wires (Black/Red/Green/White) and run it through a 1" (Or 3/4") conduit from Panel into the garage. The wire will probably around 50 -60 feet in length. The Black and Red and white will be a 6 awg wire, while the Green will be a 10awg wire. I will be putting a 60A breaker into my electrical panel. Yes i know wall charger will not need the white neutral wire and i will simply just cap it off on both ends and not used. Reason for doing this is to future proof it, incase my Wall Charger breaks down..etc.. and I can change it into a 14-50 Plug one day.

Is there any issues/safety concerns with my targeted setup above?

thanks.
Sounds fine. I would go ahead and terminate the white wire on the neutral bar in the panel. That way you won't have some yahoo try to use it without checking that detail later on.
 
This. I wouldn’t bother pulling a neutral wire. If you want a 14-50 later you will need to replace the breaker with a 50 amp (60 amp is too much).

Honestly though if your using it for an EV charger you will never want a 14-50 there because you will also need to change the breaker out to GFCI in order to meet code. The wall connector and any future EV charger you install should be hard wired for many reasons.

the panel into the garage is behind walls and through a crawl space that i cannot get into (opening too small for me). So the chance for me to pull the wire later when i need to - means i have to spend money to get someone. The wire will be about 50' long, and i think right now it is about $2.5/foot. So for $120 bucks, i save myself some hassle in the future. Although, in a way, i agree that the neutral wire may be useless, because why would i need a 14-50 in the garage in the future? i have standard 110 outlet in the garage. The only thing i can think of is if i want to put a dryer there, which i think is very unlikely.
 
the panel into the garage is behind walls and through a crawl space that i cannot get into (opening too small for me). So the chance for me to pull the wire later when i need to - means i have to spend money to get someone. The wire will be about 50' long, and i think right now it is about $2.5/foot. So for $120 bucks, i save myself some hassle in the future. Although, in a way, i agree that the neutral wire may be useless, because why would i need a 14-50 in the garage in the future? i have standard 110 outlet in the garage. The only thing i can think of is if i want to put a dryer there, which i think is very unlikely.
Were you planning to do Romex wire or run conduit? If you run conduit adding an additional wire later (if needed) is somewhat easier. If it gives you piece of mind go ahead and do it. Like others have said you can just cap it off.

If your running a 60 amp circuit though you can’t install a 14-50. So if you want the capability of easily installing a 14-50 later you need to limit yourself to a 50 amp breaker. Also, if you do install the 14-50 later on you will need to swap out the breaker to a 50 amp GFCI style breaker to meet code.
 
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Yes. Thank you. I am planning on running conduit.

So if let say I don’t put in the white neutral, what type of wire are we talking about? Would you recommend thhn anyway but just red/black/green.

I now plan on using size 4 awg for red and black and 10awg for green.

Any thoughts on the new setup ?
 
That sounds acceptable. #6 THHN is the minimum gauge for this situation in conduit, #4 will alleviate a little voltage drop and give you some headroom for future expansion if you ever need more than 48A.

The money you save on not running a neutral you can roll into upgrading your conductors to 4 gauge instead of 6. :)
 
Yes. Thank you. I am planning on running conduit.

So if let say I don’t put in the white neutral, what type of wire are we talking about? Would you recommend thhn anyway but just red/black/green.

I now plan on using size 4 awg for red and black and 10awg for green.

Any thoughts on the new setup ?
#6 THHN 90C in conduit is rated for I believe 70 or 75 amps. Don’t have ampacity chart handy. That’s what I used. You only need #4 if your using Romex.
 
#6 THHN 90C in conduit is rated for I believe 70 or 75 amps. Don’t have ampacity chart handy. That’s what I used. You only need #4 if your using Romex.
You should not use the 90C rating for the wire because the related components (circuit breaker, Wall Connector terminals) are only rated for 75C. I believe the 90C rating would only apply when wiring for commercial equipment.
 
I did some measurement today - and it turns out that i need about 40' or so.

So i am going to drop the white neutral idea and only go with Red/Black/Green.

So the wire that i will be buying is the individual THHN by foot - seperately. R and B is 4awg, and Green will be 10awg taped up in a 1" PVC Schedule40 PVC conduit.

There is no "ready to go R/G/B wire bundle', am i right?

Any further comments?