Help with manual release of brake pawl via release the of drivetrain in 1.5 bricked roadster.

[eHorses]

Hi all roadster GENIUS!

I need help to get info on how and what is needed to manually release the brake pawl in a 1.5 bricked roadster. My understanding is that it can be release easily from the drivetrain to make it free rolling. Pictures, diagrams and and instructions would be great. I’m hoping to understand it before I craw under the car.

I’m helping a family member since his local Tesla SC will not tackle it. They’ve tried via the “connector“ but was unable to. I tried these instructions Tesla Roadster – Transmission lock
last summer and was only able to awake up the VMS to pull logs.

Many thanks!

 

[X.l.r.8]

I would assume the solenoid would need a decent amount of power to engage/disengage. As its locked on a bricked roadster I would think it need a big amp 12v applied when you disengage, also I assume there is a redundant system build it so you would have to isolate the solenoid but wiring directly to it.
[Confirmed & Update] ID:100 , Park Lock Problem

 

[eHorses]

Thank you! Yeah, I am pretty sure the transmission control module is ok. The car was just not put into tow mode before it bricked (ESS was attended to when GFI tripped). I tried the 12v but stopped with fear that I would fry another component. I’m looking for a picture or diagram of the location of the pin/component that I can undo to make the back axial free rolling.

​

 

[X.l.r.8]

Remove the drive shafts! That’s about 1 hrs work. It would solve a lot of problems

 

[X.l.r.8]

Or put the rear on some dolly’s, I can drop you some off on the 23rd April I have 2 spare ones. I’ll be driving through after my shift on the 22nd.

 

[eHorses]

Or put the rear on some dolly’s, I can drop you some off on the 23rd April I have 2 spare ones. I’ll be driving through after my shift on the 22nd.

Thanks so much and that’s very kind but the car is not local to me. It’s on dollies now.

Yes, disconnecting the TCM from the axel will solve a lot of problems with moving it. I was hoping another TMC member could post a pic or a diagram to which bolt(s) to undo to save me that hour or more. I’m determined so I’ll post once I get it done.

Have a save drive down and happy travels!

 

[Stevewaclo]

Hello ehorses.

I’m writing from the National Auto Museum in Reno where we have also have a bricked, early version Roadster on dollys for movement. Unlikely we’ll ever get the wampum necessary for repair but would like to move it more easily. Please keep us in mind if you discover 411 on dropping the driveshafts.

Thanks

 

[Stevewaclo]

Hello again ehorses.

Came upon this “wake up” technique from Gruber motors. A lot more straightforward than other methods.

How to Wake-Up a Bricked Roadster | Gruber Motors

If your Roadster is in the advanced stages of bricking, it will no longer wake up on its own. The cause is a dead 12 Volt battery which is no longer being charged from the main ESS battery pack DC-DC Converter in a 2.x Roadster

grubermotors.com

I‘ll let you know if we attempt.

 

[X.l.r.8]

To pull the shafts you have to undo the hub nut, and then pull the hub. The shaft is splined both sides rather than one that bolts to stub axles. I can pull the diagrams but it will be in the parts manuals.

 

[Stevewaclo]

Thanks for the 411.

 

[eHorses]

To pull the shafts you have to undo the hub nut, and then pull the hub. The shaft is splined both sides rather than one that bolts to stub axles. I can pull the diagrams but it will be in the parts manuals.

This is helpful. Only If you have the time to look for the diagram. Thanks again.

 

[eHorses]

Circling back for an update. I found the manual and diagrams which is attached. Not easy but the car is free rolling. Plan for something to clean up the leaking transmission fluid and a long term strategy for covering the exposed gear and hole so you don’t collect dirt and moisture. Any suggestions for a “transmission plug aperture“? I have a couple plastic grocery bags and painters tape covering it and zip ties to hold things into place for now. Also What’s the risk of me drying out the seals if I keep it disconnect for a long time? The thoughts of reversing the process and not for it to be free rolling pains me

 

[X.l.r.8]

Tesla Drive Unit Driveshaft Outlet Bung Caps

zero-ev.co.uk

I have these for my S motor, they are just 3D printed. But they do the job. It wouldn’t take much for some interference fit. If you are lucky aerosol lids may fit. That would be your cheapest option.

 

[eHorses]

Tesla Drive Unit Driveshaft Outlet Bung Caps

zero-ev.co.uk

I have these for my S motor, they are just 3D printed. But they do the job. It wouldn’t take much for some interference fit. If you are lucky aerosol lids may fit. That would be your cheapest option.

I’ll try and order some. Thanks

 

[eHorses]

Tesla Drive Unit Driveshaft Outlet Bung Caps

zero-ev.co.uk

I have these for my S motor, they are just 3D printed. But they do the job. It wouldn’t take much for some interference fit. If you are lucky aerosol lids may fit. That would be your cheapest option.

what’s your thoughts on the seals drying, longterm, with it exposed and not filled with transmission fluid, even with plug?

 

[X.l.r.8]

Mines been through a fire and is sitting on my dining table. Seems fine so far lol