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Here is why I'm getting the bare bones 35k T3

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I bought a CPO Model S 60 about a year ago as a bridge from my Volt that was coming off lease to the expected Model 3... and it bumped me up the priority queue. At the time I debated between 60 vs 85 but decided that 90%+ of my needs would be satisfied with the lower range of the 60, and that has been largely the case. Decided my needs for longer range were edge cases and it wasn't worth another $10K for the already-expensive CPO.

However, the times when I have wanted the additional range have made it quite frustrating (wife says "why don't we just take the other car?") -- I don't know if it's more frustrating (for her) to stop more to charge or (for me) to drive the Volvo wagon. I've also had serious range degradation that I'm trying to work with Tesla to address. All considered, I now wish I had the 85.

Plus, and I don't think anyone touched on this above, the longer range cars will maintain a premium for resale. So don't think of it as $9000 but as some percentage of that. (I know, you still have to pay for the whole thing now...) My car is a 2014 and a 60 battery already is a relic with the new 100s out now. So consider in 5 years if the 220 will be the right choice for you.

Also, my experience with Level 1 charging on my S is 3-4 mi/h... So if you're driving 30-40 miles/day you can recover overnight. But I will hit a L2 station opportunistically when I can, especially free ones. ;)
 
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is there any truth to the notion that the Aero wheels in the base Model 3 config helped push the range to 220? If you buy the base model then swap out those wheels for something else, what might happen to the range?
Excellent question, I know the larger wheels on the S & X decrease range by as much as 10% (if memory serves). Must cause some reduction on the Model 3, maybe as much as 5% with the 19" wheels? All speculation, but we will not know until all Model 3 variants become available and testing is done
 
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2. We'll use the X for snow and distance travel. If you have a 2 car family, my guess is you'd keep the SUV for now if you are making your first plunge into Tesla.

4. AWD may be out of the tax credit. See 2.
5. Compare the bare bones T3 with a 320i stock...just go do it.
6. Oregon just added a 2500 rebate for EVs. So that's a 25k car.
7. I did math and posted here my real world savings on gas and maintenance on our S. It was better than how it was calculated on the Tesla website. I expect 5k in savings. So a 20k car.
8. Black is my favorite color car. But you could also just wrap it.

I'm sure many will want to go for the luxury to compare to a nicely equipped Bimmer/Audi. So the 5k PUP, 1.5k wheels, 1k paint and 5.1 performance would put them into 50k range on those too. I personally think bang for the buck...the base model will be unfreakingbelievable.

:)

Spot on assessments!
 
Interesting. I have a loaner P85 Model S while my new 100D Model S is in the shop getting a blemish fixed that was on the car at delivery. I find the 100D has much better traction and control, even though it's summertime. It also drives better, and feels quicker, even though 0 - 60 is listed at 4.2 for both. With that said, maybe the loaner has old tires (doesn't visibly appear so), or something else is going on. I live in a snowy wintry region and have always had AWD cars that have held up great. Do you, or anyone else, have firsthand experience of a RWD Tesla with winter tires vs AWD with normal tires? Just curious if winter tires on RWD are really better than normal tires on AWD. Thank you!!

Winter tires on RWD are definitely better than all-season tires on AWD on snow and ice, even uphill, that is really for sure. The real A/B test is how AWD does better than RWD when both are on winter tires. Didn't test that myself (and the video in my earlier post is about FWD vs AWD) but what I can certainly say is that Tesla RWD is far better on ice/snow than my previous BMW 5 RWD and even my Lexus RX AWD (all with winter tires).

And I don"t know how you can judge traction and control in the rain or on dry roads in the summer otherwise than by taking roundabouts at 120 km/h, so I can't comment on that as I don't do it :)
 
#1 is my reason, along with faster L2 and Supercharger charging and longer battery warrantee. Extra performance is also a bonus. One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is towing. I want to tow a small (850 lb.) camping trailer on road trips. Anyone with experience towing have an estimate on range reduction with this? Trailer should be pretty low drag being about 50" high and 72" wide (GO Pop Up Adventure Camping Trailers | SylvanSport).
I've been looking for a used Sylvnsport. For the price of a new one, you can almost get a fiberglass camper like a Scamp.

Even though Elon said it would support towing, I didn't see it in the final specs. If they had a factory tow option, I would likely opt for the larger battery. On the Model X, towing increases consumption by about 50% for something like a small airstream. For small popup trailers, I am guessing more like 30% increase in consumption.
 
We've had a P85D since mid-2015 and I don't care if we NEVER get AP!! I like to drive and I'm good at it, so why trust our lives to electronics? Looking forward to taking delivery (hopefully in the next 2 or 3 years!!) of our early-order Model 3 (Who knows when the Ludicrous version will be available!!). Elon thinks he's depressed ... he should try waiting for delivery of the car of his dreams!!
 
I think I'll also be going with the 35k base with +1k white paint. I'll be using a normal 120V plug to charge it at ~6-7 miles an hour, which is plenty.

I did the T3 comparison with a base 320i, and the 320i isn't bad in comparison... I just know the T3's user and driving experience will be bar none.

What I really want is the Model Y.
A normal 120v plug is going to get you 3 or 4 miles and hour, not 6 or 7.
 
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Most people in my area could easily live with the base model. People refuse to go to stores/offices if it's just on the other side of the city (10-15 minute drive time).

We need the big battery though as we have a 1-way 100 mile commute once a week. Makes you tired and just want to get home without having to stop at a supercharger.
 
This might change but at the moment I am thinking base model plus white paint, $36K total, and replacement hubcaps for the fugly Aero wheels.

Whoever gets an early Aero wheel car needs to do some testing and provide us with some options for better hubcaps.

I do want the big battery, but $9000? I'm not sure I want it THAT badly.......
Hubcaps? I'm sure the Model 3 has rims not hubcaps. If you're trying to keep the cost low then new rims probably isn't the place to spend your money. You'll also need to decide if your tire/rim choice is worth the decrease in range. Choosing tires/rims can have a bigger impact on long distance hauls than you'd think -- especially in winter -- but are less consequential if this is a daily driver that doesn't come close to the range limit and won't be used for long distance travel frequently.
 
I don't need lots of range. I don't need huge wheels. But I've not seen nor touched standard interior materials.
I do not want real nor fake leather though fabric as cheap as my bed-sheet is a no-go.
Mid-trim Leaf has exceptionally good fabric-like material. Much better than BMW-s offer as standard.
I do not want free SuperCharger access though I would be grateful for 300-400kWh a year.
I do not want special color, though black is the worst (also least popular) color of all available.

I would want EAP but it is way too expensive.
I'm happy with 32A onboard charger. I'm happy with no speedo. I'm happy with no keyfob.
 
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I have been considering going all out for the M3. However like most you are pointing out $9,000 for a battery upgrade is steep! Considering that the larger battery will given you 310 miles of range (which is VERY impressive) but at a price tag of $9,000 equates to only $29.03 per mile of range. However the smaller battery pack will give you 220 miles of range this increase in battery pack size is 90 miles, by doing the math will cost you $100 per mile. Like most of you I am not willing, at this point, to pay.

I am going to stick with the base model in black without the premium option. (because again I am not willing to pay $5,000 for a glass roof - the other options are nice but are not a must have, for example the heated seats. I am sure they are nice but no thank you. The 12 way power seat sure is nice but really you can only up, down, forward, and back in so many ways. Premium sound - well I am not twenty something anymore. Heated side mirrors, I have them now but only use them when I am in the car wash to dry the mirrors. Fog lights is something I would like to have but again at $5,000 for this package I can do without.

Even though I've test drove a MS with AP2 and it was AWESOME but am not completely sold on needing it. With that being said, the adaptive cruise control is something I would be willing to opt for as well as the AWD

So in a nutshell I am looking at $35,000 for the base + Adaptive Cruise Control, + AWD = maybe $40-$45,000 depending on cost for AWD
 
AP can be bought later, premium package cannot. I think I'm going to get the premium package and in 4 or 5 years see what the state of autopilot and full autonomy looks like. For now, I want to drive this car myself anyway.
I agree, I like driving. So the thought of AP is not in sights, yet. The adaptive cruise control however is something that I can use. Not sure if that is going to be all inclusive with the AP package like the glass roof option is with the premium package...thoughts?
 
Skipping superchargers is an extremely inefficient mode. The goal should be to arrive with as low of a range as possible at each charger and charge just enough to get to your next one. Usually a 10-15% buffer is all you need. It's the most efficient model of long-range travel. Charging to 80% at a supercharger instead of 50% will cost you more time than you realize.
I've seen too many videos of people charging recent Teslas. I believe early Model S was quick at 0% SOC, but later versions really ramp up slowly, prefer to start at 20% or so.

The bare car seems like the best deal to me, although white really should have been the standard color. I'd waste so much energy on cooling the car in the summer...perhaps white even earns itsmoney back over the life of the car! Autopilot looks so sweet, and I can totally imagine it vastly changing the whole driving experience. But $5K...I don't know!
And paying $3K now for full autonomous while current version can't consistently tell a bike for a car or enact a smooth lane change...seems like a $3K vote of confidence rather than clever consumership.

The $9K battery would help for resale value. But after 5 years, how much of it would be left?
Let's say the bare car depreciates from $35K to $17.5K, exactly half. Would the LR do better than $23K?
What about AP, would that be subject to depreciation? How much will a used car buyer need to pay Tesla to get it unlocked, 5 years from now? Same $5K, more, or less?
Maybe all other brands will just give it away for free. Or they try to get more for it even than Tesla and play the cartel game.