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Here we go again... Model 3 wont power up

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I just don't even know what to do anymore:

My SC, despite their best efforts, can not find the root cause of the issue. They are starting to talk about just giving the car back. How can I take a car back that has left me stranded twice without knowing what happened? They say there are a few more places to look, but it doesn't seem like they expect to find anything.

Tomorrow is 23 days in service and 30 days since I took delivery.

I'm starting to think about filing the lemon law paperwork with the state. Is there any disadvantage to this? What if they end up fixing the car and I get it back - will I be killing my resale value if my VIN is in some lemon law database?

I really love the 3 and want the car.

What would you do? I'm so burned out by this situation. :confused:
Get a P100D loaner - then who cares they can keep it as long as they want.
 
Yeah, I found a database for buy backs but not initial claims. My claim would fall under the 30 days in service clause but in my state I need to give them written notice after 15 (or more) days in service and then give them another 15 days to fix the issue. So I kind of need to decide now if I want the clock to start ticking.

But isn't that a clock to the final go/no-go decision, purpose being to give them time to fix it? If it were fixed in that period, it seems nothing of record would happen.
 
Get a P100D loaner - then who cares they can keep it as long as they want.

Yeah, I've felt like this for the past week with the P90D (which is PLENTY fast for me). But its just annoying to not really know what you are going to get back in the end.

Am I going to get back a car that service has gone through with a fine tooth comb and it will never have another problem?
Am i going to get back a lemon that's going to leave me stranded again, maybe in the middle of nowhere?

If I don't file the lemon law paperwork now, that means I would have to wait another 2 weeks after the car fails again to request a settlement. At the same time - my SC has really been great, and I don't want to make them look bad. Its not their fault!
 
If it was me I’d start the clock ticking unless you feel that they may be willing to compensate you one way or another. Do all you can; however, to try to resolve things first without going the lemon law route because the process can be lengthy. Mine took a year and a half.

Its funny because they keep telling me it will never come to a lemon law claim and Tesla would never let that happen and would never pursue arbitration if I met the requirements set forth by state law. As much as I WANT to believe that because I love Tesla the company, the rational side of my brain tells me to be skeptical.
 
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Its funny because they keep telling me it will never come to a lemon law claim and Tesla would never let that happen and would never pursue arbitration if I met the requirements set forth by state law. As much as I WANT to believe that because I love Tesla the company, the rational side of my brain tells me to be skeptical.
So, it sounds like they’re willing to give you a replacement M3? If you feel they’re being upfront then take the car back and if it happens again you’ll get a new M3 (if they’re not going to pursue arbitration under the lemon law). Either way, you don’t lose because that (3 attempted repairs of the same issue) would automatically qalify you to file under the lemon law.
 
So, it sounds like they’re willing to give you a replacement M3? If you feel they’re being upfront then take the car back and if it happens again you’ll get a new M3 (if they’re not going to pursue arbitration under the lemon law). Either way, you don’t lose because that (3 attempted repairs of the same issue) would automatically qalify you to file under the lemon law.

Yeah, well technically even though the 12V system failed the first time, they claim it was a malfunction of the drive unit that caused the 12V system to fail.... and the pyro fuse to blow... and the brake calipers to fail.

More importantly, I really don't want to be stranded 300 miles away from home again should the car fail.
 
More importantly, I really don't want to be stranded 300 miles away from home again should the car fail.
Valid point. Perhaps you can convey that to the SC manager and at this point you’ve lost confidence in the particular vehicle in not breaking down again since it’s already left you stranded on two occasions. Be polite, firm, decisive and inform them that they can resolve this by replacing the vehicle for you. If that doesn’t work, file under the lemon law.
 
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Yes emphasize that you want a reliable vehicle that must not break down mysteriously, especially since its new.
Yes start the lemon law process and let the SC know.
If they offer to give it back, state you will only accept it with a written guarantee that if it mysteriously breaks down again then they will replace it with another new M3 with at least the same options. If they wont do that, continue with lemon.
 
These issues really bother me as a stock holder. This is very expensive for Tesla to identify and fix. I'm glad the service is excellent and offering great loaners, but that is expensive too! I wished Tesla had learned more from the last 7 months!
It’s pretty poor from Tesla.
They should have just given him a brand new replacement & used the other one when fixed as a loaner
This is costing Tesla millions in future business from bad PR
 
A 12V battery holds about 400Wh. MCU and monitor are probably 20W. APE 2.5 hardware maxes out at 300W. One dashcam consumes merely 2-5W, or a small fraction of the entire 12V subsystem.

I think Tesla designed the car's power system to attrit some battery, and that is the 12V battery which is replaceable and cheaper than doing anything on the HV pack. For the additional sensors and computer chips added since HW2.0, I wonder why they didn't put a bigger capacity 12V battery (or install a silly 2~3 of them) so that the life expectancy of the battery can be longer and better predicted.

Anyway it's designed this way, and so our beloved service centers have always kept their eyes on the 12V batteries and replaced them when needed. /s
 
A 12V battery holds about 400Wh. MCU and monitor are probably 20W. APE 2.5 hardware maxes out at 300W. One dashcam consumes merely 2-5W, or a small fraction of the entire 12V subsystem.

I think Tesla designed the car's power system to attrit some battery, and that is the 12V battery which is replaceable and cheaper than doing anything on the HV pack. For the additional sensors and computer chips added since HW2.0, I wonder why they didn't put a bigger capacity 12V battery (or install a silly 2~3 of them) so that the life expectancy of the battery can be longer and better predicted.

Anyway it's designed this way, and so our beloved service centers have always kept their eyes on the 12V batteries and replaced them when needed. /s

When the car is in use, all 12V is fed from the main pack.
 
Thought I would post a final update (hopefully).

No real issue could be found with the car - they are saying there may have been a loose connection in the wiring harness which caused errors in the CAN and a subsequent disconnection from the 12V system.
Capture.PNG


Happy to have the car back but nervous for the future :confused:
 
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Thought I would post a final update (hopefully).

No real issue could be found with the car - they are saying there may have been a loose connection in the wiring harness which caused errors in the CAN and a subsequent disconnection from the 12V system. View attachment 288312

Happy to have the car back but nervous for the future :confused:

Hope the connector reseating works for you.

Once, we had a harness issue where the wiper finger on one terminal was bad (likely from terminal manufacturer). Could only see the issue after pulling the terminal out of the housing. Can also diagnose with a terminal by terminal insertion/ retention force test.
 
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Not even a week after getting my Model 3 back after the drive unit failed...

I'm stuck here at work and can't get in my car. Can't even open the frunk - tried with a 9v and two different sets of jumper cables on a 12v car battery.

I really love my car and Tesla but this is getting tiresome :mad:
I don't drive my Model 3 everyday, don't know if that had anything to do with 12V dying in 2 weeks but it started to work again when I checked the next morning. After reading up on this issue I keep the hood open from now.