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Is anyone actually getting more than 300 real world miles at a constant 70 MPH?
Yes, M3 LR 2022 repeatedly does 175 miles down the M4 to Swansea (to son's University) on 51%, so I can extrapolate that to 350 miles of real range. I'm hoping that as we get further into the summer I'll attempt to do there and back.

The 2022 LR has much lower consumption than my previous 2019 LR, 240Wh/mile vs 280Wh/mile consistently on the motorway.
 
AP is standard. and is more than enough.. only if they would get rid of that audible notification....

heatpump was started to be included in 2021 models, and much more powerful and nicer to use CPU for infotainment/screen is from 2022 (AMD Ryzen).

Note the 2021 facelift models arrived in late 2020, so I have a '70 registered in Dec 2020, but it has the black window surround, heatpump, better centre console, slightly longer range etc.

I think the LR AWD is the best performance/value

I used confused.com for insurance and was quoted £400 from Churchill

Tyres are not too bad - £165 fitted for Micheling Primacy 4 Michelin Primacy 4+ 235/45 R18 Y tyres | Blackcircles.com
 
I have a March 2020 Fremont 3LR. No paint or panel issues. No heatpump or heated steering wheel.
Resistive heater warms car up quickly.
It came with 300 mile range and still has 300 mile range after 10K miles.
mine has passenger lumbar support and centre console USB data ports which have subsequently gone from newer models.
I wouldn’t dismiss a 2020 model.

That’s good to know, so pre 2022 isn’t going to result in a terrible car
Note the 2021 facelift models arrived in late 2020, so I have a '70 registered in Dec 2020, but it has the black window surround, heatpump, better centre console, slightly longer range etc.

I think the LR AWD is the best performance/value

I used confused.com for insurance and was quoted £400 from Churchill

Tyres are not too bad - £165 fitted for Micheling Primacy 4 Michelin Primacy 4+ 235/45 R18 Y tyres | Blackcircles.com

Good to know
 
Yes, M3 LR 2022 repeatedly does 175 miles down the M4 to Swansea (to son's University) on 51%, so I can extrapolate that to 350 miles of real range. I'm hoping that as we get further into the summer I'll attempt to do there and back.

The 2022 LR has much lower consumption than my previous 2019 LR, 240Wh/mile vs 280Wh/mile consistently on the motorway.
Yes but the question was "at a constant 70" even assuming there is not traffic aren't chunks of that stretch of the M4 now permanently 50mph? So what speed are you actually averaging?
 
For 150 mile each way trips I think even a LR I'd assume would need at least a splash and dash at motorway speed

Yes, that would be my expectation too - although in a 2022 @GRiLLA is doing better than that. If the stopover is long enough then 13AMP is worth considering - that will add about 7 MPH.

If my journey is more than around 70% of max 70 MPH range I charge to 100%. I've been caught out by thunderstorm (causing significantly loss of efficiency having to push the water out of the way, mile after mile, such that slowing down saves the "aero" part but not the "flood" part). Along with phone ringing with "Could you detour to do X ... and Y and Z" :)

Assuming arrival with 30 miles contingency is comfortable, then on a 300 mile range car then 90% usable, on a 200 mile range car its only 85%

so pre 2022 isn’t going to result in a terrible car

Each one I've bought, starting back in 2015, has been great IMHO (compared to my expectations at the time). Subsequently various new features came along, to tempt me again and Tesla have repeatedly improved the efficiency - its impressive (alongside competition) how they manage to scavenge energy and route it wherever needed. I'm over-simplifying, but for example they used to come with a battery heater (e.g. for cold winter mornings), now if the battery needs heat that is scavenged from elsewhere - including "spinning" the motors when stationary, without moving, to generate heat (when nothing else is available). "Elegant engineering", and the competitors who have torn them to bits have often admitted being impressed.

So I reckon whatever you can afford will be fine.

The USA ones had reputation of bad panels gaps and so on. Likely as a 2nd hand purchase the previous owner will have had got the cosmetics sorted. Paint quality might be be an issue to be careful of. There was bad rash on the bottom part of the sides of early M3s, Tesla provided freebie mud flaps ... but they may not have been fitted, or "paint rash" already occurred before they were fitted. Paint in USA is reputedly softer than China (I believe that is because USA require it is water soluble, so somewhat inferior as a result), so might be another reason to buy MiC
 
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the question was "at a constant 70" even assuming there is not traffic aren't chunks of that stretch of the M4 now permanently 50mph? So what speed are you actually averaging?

Real world usually means I get held up for trraffic. or roadworks, which does wonders for my range :)

But I like to be prepared for the day when I get a clear run ... or I'm driving on French motorway and don't see anyone else all day long ...

But, that said, I've been relying on ABRP for my numbers

From my Home to Edinburgh

2021 M3 LR 82kWh 18" Aero
109.6 kWh, 270 Wh/mi, 1 charging stop 20 min, Distance 386 mi, Driving time 5 h 28 min (20C no wind = 261 miles range based on pro rata the longest leg)

I then tried ABRP's 2022 M3 LR 18" Aero .. .and it gave me exactly the same numbers :(, so I reckon ABRP doesn't have figures for 2022 improvements
 
I think it’s true to say that buying a used Tesla is no different to buying any used car.
Your pocket determines what age/mileage you can afford.
When you view one, the early faults should be gone and what you see now is what you get.
Choose carefully and you’ll be fine.
 
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- tyres are pretty expensive compared to ICE vehicles

The Model S/X Teslas lack any engine noise to drown out tire noise (obviously). Tesla therefore opted to use the pricier foam-lined tires to make them quieter.

AFAIK, these were never used on the 3 or Y. Of course, you are free to purchase whatever replacement tires suit your needs. There's nothing special about them, unless there's some unique material that's required when they're called "tyres" and driven on the wrong side of the road.

That said, EVs are generally heavier and will wear the tread faster, depending on driving habits and conditions. At least there's no belts or oil to change.
 
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The Model S/X Teslas lack any engine noise to drown out tire noise (obviously). Tesla therefore opted to use the pricier foam-lined tires to make them quieter.

AFAIK, these were never used on the 3 or Y.

Model 3 and Y ARE supplied with acoustic foam lined tyres (in UK at least). Having said that the difference to non-lined tyres is negligeable in my experience.
 
To be fair I'm not too fussed by the tyres, just trying to be aware of any points which mean the Tesla would be dearer to run / things to look out for etc.

I wouldn’t be bothered by the foam insulation at all, as long as they’re a decent tyre that’s safe and legal I’d be happy with it
 
I bought my Long Range summer 2021 which was one of the first Made In China versions with heat pump, heated steering, USB ports, built in wireless phone charging, etc.

Go from that date onwards and any you buy will be just as good as any brand new Model 3. I don't think the spec has change much if at all since then.

Of course you could wait for the new face-lift Model 3, but knowing Elon it could be in 6 months or 6 years.
 
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I recently went through a similar process as you - first EV and didn't know anything about Teslas. OK it's in Norway, but pretty much the same considerations. This place has been a gold mine. I in fact had a new Model 3 on order, but decided to cancel and buy used, so started doing my homework!

It's correct what people say that they just make changes on a continuous basis, so hard to know what you are getting, but with the Model 3 there has been one major facelift/refresh where a lot of changes came at pretty much the same time. That was officially for the 21 model (so cars actually produced November 20 onwards) and that got you the chrome-delete black exterior trims, power trunk, heated steering wheel, heated rear seats, double glazing, heat pump, new (much better, imho) interior, etc. That's why people are saying go for a 21 onwards.

Of course it's a fuzzy transition, and in the UK market in particular, I know from a previous thread there are some early 21 'mongrel' cars (mostly 70 reg but even 21 reg) that have some of the refresh stuff like heat pump, power trunk, but still rocking the chrome and old interior! So you need to check carefully the spec of any you are interested in if certain things are really important to you.

Go a bit further into 21 and UK market switches to made in China cars. Pretty much everyone agrees they are better built. Not so much that they are all better than all US cars, but US cars are much more variable - some good, some crap, while Chinese cars are consistently good. You can identify by the VIN which you can see in the front windscreen. US cars start 5YJ, while Chinese cars start LRW.

Go further still, well into 22, and you get the AMD Ryzen CPU upgrade and an improved 12V battery. These are nice-to-have if you can get them. I ended up with an early 22 (built December 21) and missed out, but it's not bothersome at all. Yeah sometimes it feels like the screen is a little sluggish, and I've seen the video comparison of how much faster Netflix loads on the Ryzen, etc, but meh - it would be nice but not a deal breaker! If you look at any you can see the car spec in the menu with a few presses and confirm whether it is AMD Ryzen or the old Intel Atom. You can also confirm things like the heat pump from there so useful to learn how to check that.

Finally most people say LR dual motor, and that's what I got, but don't rule out the RWD. Looking at your described useage, you will be fine with the RWD lower range, and how much four wheel drive and faster acceleration matters to you is up to you! Depending how your budget stretches, a RWD might get you into something newer, less miles and most importantly more remaining warranty, so definitely worth considering. Apart from the obvious battery, motors, speed, the only other difference in spec between RWD and LR is an inferior audio system and lack of front fog lights. So it's not like you go pov-spec if you choose the RWD, plus it has advantages in battery flexibility and efficiency as already mentioned.
 
I recently went through a similar process as you - first EV and didn't know anything about Teslas. OK it's in Norway, but pretty much the same considerations. This place has been a gold mine. I in fact had a new Model 3 on order, but decided to cancel and buy used, so started doing my homework!

It's correct what people say that they just make changes on a continuous basis, so hard to know what you are getting, but with the Model 3 there has been one major facelift/refresh where a lot of changes came at pretty much the same time. That was officially for the 21 model (so cars actually produced November 20 onwards) and that got you the chrome-delete black exterior trims, power trunk, heated steering wheel, heated rear seats, double glazing, heat pump, new (much better, imho) interior, etc. That's why people are saying go for a 21 onwards.

Of course it's a fuzzy transition, and in the UK market in particular, I know from a previous thread there are some early 21 'mongrel' cars (mostly 70 reg but even 21 reg) that have some of the refresh stuff like heat pump, power trunk, but still rocking the chrome and old interior! So you need to check carefully the spec of any you are interested in if certain things are really important to you.

Go a bit further into 21 and UK market switches to made in China cars. Pretty much everyone agrees they are better built. Not so much that they are all better than all US cars, but US cars are much more variable - some good, some crap, while Chinese cars are consistently good. You can identify by the VIN which you can see in the front windscreen. US cars start 5YJ, while Chinese cars start LRW.

Go further still, well into 22, and you get the AMD Ryzen CPU upgrade and an improved 12V battery. These are nice-to-have if you can get them. I ended up with an early 22 (built December 21) and missed out, but it's not bothersome at all. Yeah sometimes it feels like the screen is a little sluggish, and I've seen the video comparison of how much faster Netflix loads on the Ryzen, etc, but meh - it would be nice but not a deal breaker! If you look at any you can see the car spec in the menu with a few presses and confirm whether it is AMD Ryzen or the old Intel Atom. You can also confirm things like the heat pump from there so useful to learn how to check that.

Finally most people say LR dual motor, and that's what I got, but don't rule out the RWD. Looking at your described useage, you will be fine with the RWD lower range, and how much four wheel drive and faster acceleration matters to you is up to you! Depending how your budget stretches, a RWD might get you into something newer, less miles and most importantly more remaining warranty, so definitely worth considering. Apart from the obvious battery, motors, speed, the only other difference in spec between RWD and LR is an inferior audio system and lack of front fog lights. So it's not like you go pov-spec if you choose the RWD, plus it has advantages in battery flexibility and efficiency as already mentioned.

That is amazingly helpful! Thank you !

What made you switch to a used car? Better value for money?

I did a bit of a search on the intel vs Ryzen and whilst clearly Ryzen is better apparently there were some updates which improved things a bit?

Finally, are there any obvious ways of telling from photos if it’s got a heat pump or the refreshed bits? I think I read that the interior deleted the USB ports
 
That is amazingly helpful! Thank you !

What made you switch to a used car? Better value for money?

I did a bit of a search on the intel vs Ryzen and whilst clearly Ryzen is better apparently there were some updates which improved things a bit?

Finally, are there any obvious ways of telling from photos if it’s got a heat pump or the refreshed bits? I think I read that the interior deleted the USB ports
Have a watch of the below. :)

 
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That is amazingly helpful! Thank you !

What made you switch to a used car? Better value for money?

I did a bit of a search on the intel vs Ryzen and whilst clearly Ryzen is better apparently there were some updates which improved things a bit?

Finally, are there any obvious ways of telling from photos if it’s got a heat pump or the refreshed bits? I think I read that the interior deleted the USB ports
The USB-A ports became power only something like the start of 2021, and changed to be USB-C power only in 2022. Certainly still there, and as USB-c deliver a decent amount more power than the old ones. When the originals allowed data as well the only really 'benefit' would be connecting a gamepad for some of the games from the ports in the centre console, rather than messing in the glove box. No one can really figure out why they haven't got round to supporting bluetooth gamepads like they do in Steam on the new S/X, personally I'm not interested in the games anyway.
 
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The USB-A ports became power only something like the start of 2021, and changed to be USB-C power only in 2022. Certainly still there, and as USB-c deliver a decent amount more power than the old ones. When the originals allowed data as well the only really 'benefit' would be connecting a gamepad for some of the games from the ports in the centre console, rather than messing in the glove box. No one can really figure out why they haven't got round to supporting bluetooth gamepads like they do in Steam on the new S/X, personally I'm not interested in the games anyway.
well, data connection is bigger issue - for example you could connect phone and play sound from phone without delay... BT has some minor delay
 
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