High mileage check-in

[EnrgyNDpndnce]

Tesla now gives you the option to download all of your charging history from the website.

Tesla SSO - Sign In

Oh that’s pretty cool. I knew you could look at charging history and see each individual session, but I didn’t realize you could now download the data from previous years. I’ll have to grab all my history and sort it to see what I can learn.

Thanks!

 

[Dre78]

December, 2018 dual motor, 18" aero with 31k miles; 286/310 on 100% charge. It's been driven during Midwest winters which I'm assuming is a factor for degradation. For over a year I was mostly Supercharging to 90%. Then it was a combo of Supercharger and Level 2 at work. Now it's home charging on 120v; Supercharging for occasional road trips.

• Total DC charges: 5,965.95 kWh; 239 charges.
• Total AC charges: 4,502.95 kWh; 705 charges.

date; mileage; action
5/14/2021; 28,228; replace driver-front harness
4/12/2021; 27,800; replace windshield wipers
12/31/2020; 24,598; acoustic foam removed from tires
10/6/2020; 21,098; replace Air Filter
1/3/2020; 10,528; fix horn
12/16/2019; 10,210; tire rotation & balance
7/23/2019; 6,184; adjust rear-passenger striker plate
2/26/2019; 1,042; replace MCU
1/17/2019; 528; replace SD card

Oh, and somewhere HW3 was installed...

 

[Silver Ghost]

And why force them to change it? Wouldn't they have a test for when to change it?

They did and said it was good.
was raised in Detroit, so just could not believe that oil did not need to be changed. Now I believe that it can go longer than 100K without problem

 

[israndy]

The more I think about it the more I wonder if you would need to change it preemptively. The oil is just going from the radiator thru channels between the batteries, thru the shell of the motor, the motor interior is oil free as it would mess with the motor efficiency if it had oil or oil bath, unlike an ICE. The bearings are likely permanently lubed. That means no moving parts are getting lubed by this oil, it's just used to move the heat away. Probably not an issue going years w/o changing it.

 

[Big Earl]

The more I think about it the more I wonder if you would need to change it preemptively. The oil is just going from the radiator thru channels between the batteries, thru the shell of the motor, the motor interior is oil free as it would mess with the motor efficiency if it had oil or oil bath, unlike an ICE. The bearings are likely permanently lubed. That means no moving parts are getting lubed by this oil, it's just used to move the heat away. Probably not an issue going years w/o changing it.

Sorry Randy, I have to disagree with everything except your last sentence.

There are two separate systems connected by heat exchangers.

The radiator, inverter, FSD computer and the battery pack have coolant (similar to traditional engine coolant) running through them. The drive units have automatic transmission fluid that runs through them, providing both lubrication and cooling. The transmission fluid exchanges its heat with the coolant by way of a heat exchanger on each drive unit.

Here's a great recent video from Weber Auto about Tesla drive units:

 

[israndy]

Ah, heat exchanger, that's the word I couldn't bring up when writing my post. I stand, perhaps, corrected. It's good to know where the break is between the battery systems and the drive systems cooling. I have seen the heat exchanger under the hood and assumed there was just that one connection between the climate systems and the chassis systems, but that video shows there is another exchanger on the motor between the batt and drive that I didn't notice before.

This is how we learn, say something asinine that you always thought was true and have others correct you. I usually prefer being on the other side, but you were awfully polite about it.

And I did forget about the differential, so I guess that has to be lubed. I wonder how to check the oil to see if it needs to be changed. It's not like there is a dip stick that I saw in the video.

I still don't think oil (or ATF) is going thru the motor, and there isn't anything in that video that says there is. But perhaps that's just years of dealing with electric motors in non-vehicle use. Although I remember someone (Sandy?) showing the veins going thru the case of the motor that contained the coolant. But perhaps you are right that the motor is lubed, I still think you would only need to do that to the bearings.

Too bad there wasn't a disassembly of the motor on video so we could see what had to be wiped clean of oil. Thanks for the video link.

 

[CarolinaBMXers]

429 miles...no issues!
(but my 15' S was nearing 100k.....only issue over those miles was taillight leak, and sunroof leak!)

 

[AZHobos]

84,668 miles and 41 states on our 2019 Performance.

Road trips only, it rarely leaves the garage during the week. I usually commute on an e-bike and my wife thinks the car is too flashy to take to her work. It’s not uncommon for the car to sit unused for a month if we are traveling in our other vehicles.

309 mile range new, 295 miles at 20,000 miles and 284 range currently. We leave it at 50-60 percent during the week and charge it to 100% every time we leave the house as we normally have to go 240 miles to the nearest supercharger.

It has never been in the shop, although I do have an appointment in a week to look over a few minor issues.

Love this car.

 

[Jeremy3292]

309 mile range new, 295 miles at 20,000 miles and 284 range currently.

4.5% range decrease after only 20k miles but 8% range decrease (overall) in 85k miles. That’s an interesting data point.

 

[israndy]

It’s not uncommon for the car to sit unused for a month if we are traveling in our other vehicles.

Ha ha ha. When I got my Tesla I already had 7 other vehicles. One year later I realized that I hadn't driven ONE of them in all that time. So I decided to take out the convertible and discovered the battery was dead, like so dead I had to buy another one. Dam Costco didn't sell me the right size, but it worked. Over the next year I replaced most of the batteries in my other vehicles, and purchased some trickle charging solutions. Both my RVs now have solar, my Honda hybrid already had a 150v trickle charger, and now my Jeep is getting a smart disconnect to protect the battery from dropping below 12v.

But I often wonder what it would be like to leave the Tesla alone and not charge it every day or so, not check the battery at dawn and dusk. Would I have to turn the car OFF to keep the battery from discharging before I go to use it again? Is it REALLY off when I do that? Obviously the card reader is still on, wonder how much power that is using. What else is on when the car is officially OFF?

 

[Big Earl]

4.5% range decrease after only 20k miles but 8% range decrease (overall) in 85k miles. That’s an interesting data point.

Same for me. Still in the 280s at 116,000 miles so it has really leveled off for now.

 

[Pyre]

At 59.3k miles full charge is 277mi. 2019 Model 3 Performance. Purchased less than 600 miles ago.

 

[AZHobos]

Ha ha ha. When I got my Tesla I already had 7 other vehicles. One year later I realized that I hadn't driven ONE of them in all that time.

Similar for us. We have more vehicles than we should. Prior to the Tesla, we were out in the Jeep or traveling with the dually and camper every weekend. The Tesla changed all that instantly so that, with the exception of the motorcycles, we no longer care to drive the others. The Jeep and the camper have been sold with the money going into the Cybertruck fund. Most of the others are being stored while we figure out what our next step in life is...

 

[Nik a]

September 2018 long range dual motor, so 310 range original, currently at 126,100 miles and 100% is around 285 (seems to fluctuate some).

As for maintenance, tires, window washing fluid, and my PTC heater failed last spring.

Nik

 

[israndy]

Was the heater under warranty? If not what did the repair cost?

 

[HopeToGolf]

2018 (May) LR RWD, 38K miles (everything from 15 mile daily commutes to many 270 mile (one way) trip road trips) , 305 miles at 100% (my battery has been exercised quite a bit and charged on everything from Level 1 to Superchargers…I charge a couple of times a week to about 70% and then run it down).

Maintenance 1) I use winter tires and have replaced only the all season rears. 2) replaced the right hand side front control arm under warranty in Sept 2020 (apparently the design was flawed and Tesla changed it. Could not get them to preemptively replace the other side.) 3) just scheduled a mobile ranger to replace the cabin filter and check the brake fluid.

*knock wood* this car is so insanely reliable and cheap to operate it will be hard to buy a different brand/type of car. I hope the car maintains this level of reliability.

 

[zannman]

I look forward to seeing more of these kinds of threads when more 3s start to get past bumper-to-bumper warranty and battery warranties.

I'm at 53k miles. Mine has had only an upper control arm replacement at 30k miles and first set of tires at 26k. I can highly recommend the General Altimax RT43's for mileage treadwear if you're on Aeros. Mine are still at 6-7 32nds with 27k on this set.

I don't know how many DIY'ers we have, but it appears that seam sealing the top metal seams on the upper control arms is the Tesla method to extend control arm (ball joint) life by preventing water ingress. Any silicone adhesive sealant should do the trick.

I'm still above average on TeslaFi for degradataion. Looking forward to see where it levels out a bit.

 

[M3BlueGeorgia]

Just came back from a Thanksgiving trip to New Orleans.

Now at 85K miles with a range of around 281 "EPA" miles.

LR RWD with 18" wheels and aeros. Built June 2018, bought in July.

Primarily road trip mileage, so mainly Supercharging.

On our second set of replacement tires and second replacement of wiper blades.

One air filter change. Planning another one in 2022, after the Georgia pollen season.

One of the daylight running lights is out, but not willing to spend $1,175 to replace whole light unit to fix it.

Biggest irritation is that Tesla can't fix a failed light.
Second one is the last UI design made the screen less readable (while driving) and the map a bit smaller.

We have FSD, but not interested in v10.x until Tesla fix its phantom braking issue and have an option for a decent sized map display.

 

[israndy]

I look forward to seeing more of these kinds of threads when more 3s start to get past bumper-to-bumper warranty and battery warranties.

I resemble that remark:

https://imgur.com/a/NTe63gJ

I do have an open service appointment before Xmas, will be interested to see if they honor the warranty as I was in when I made the appt. but they have such long lead times.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I don't know how many DIY'ers we have, but it appears that seam sealing the top metal seams on the upper control arms is the Tesla method to extend control arm (ball joint) life by preventing water ingress. Any silicone adhesive sealant should do the trick.

I had been meaning to inspect Tesla’s work on this but had not gotten around to it. You are correct! What a messy looking job. Probably does not matter but I’d never leave things looking like this if I were doing the work myself. Makes me feel more committed to doing all possible service work myself in future. They probably did not even clean the top of the control arm thoroughly before slapping sealant on it so it’s probably not a great seal.