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High mileage check-in

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I believe the LR AWD was 310 miles and the Performance M3 from 2018 was below 300, but I never was gonna spend that much on a M3 so I didn't pay close attention to it. I believe the update was ONLY for the RWD model as it was artificially lowered in rated range to make the dual motor cars look better, I don't think the other two 2018 cars ever got extra range on the display from just software.

theres a difference between being derated and just having the top kms hidden. So a 2019 performance (or AWD initially) the computer will know that your car has 523km range but will only display up to 499km.
 
Took delivery of my MYP on last day of 2020. Have put 36,000 on in 11 months (I didn't drive it for all of January while awaiting winter tires). I can also attest, no real problems to date. Even talked about it in a video I made--"This might be the best daily driver I have ever owned!"
 
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275,000 miles lots of supercharging and Canadian winters still charges to 265 @100%
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275,000 miles lots of supercharging and Canadian winters still charges to 265 @100%View attachment 753368
Pretty incredible. Just extrapolating the kind of numbers this would result in

~90K miles/year
~8-9 hours on the road per day

I expect you're in a courier business. Would it be accurate to say you need to supercharge twice an average day along with home charging overnight? It's encouraging to hear the car has held up well for you over that amount of distance! Comparatively, most of our cars will die of old age first.

Please keep us in the loop for future mileage/KM milestones.
 
We drive 50k/yr, so I have been wondering about the longevity of the Tesla battery. If the car is 70k (MYP), then running up the mileage in a few years would be too costly if it would need 50k of battery and drive units. I was wondering if putting this kind of mileage on a M3 at 45k or 50k would make more sense.
 
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We drive 50k/yr, so I have been wondering about the longevity of the Tesla battery. If the car is 70k (MYP), then running up the mileage in a few years would be too costly if it would need 50k of battery and drive units. I was wondering if putting this kind of mileage on a M3 at 45k or 50k would make more sense.
at 50k miles/ year = ~140 miles PER Day (?) your savings in gasoline will be insanely high. theoretically you could afford a new battery every 4+ years and still save money.
 
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We drive 50k/yr, so I have been wondering about the longevity of the Tesla battery. If the car is 70k (MYP), then running up the mileage in a few years would be too costly if it would need 50k of battery and drive units. I was wondering if putting this kind of mileage on a M3 at 45k or 50k would make more sense.
You must be spending a fortune on tires, given that the tires on the P variants are both expensive and quicker to wear out. 😱
 
You must be spending a fortune on tires, given that the tires on the P variants are both expensive and quicker to wear out. 😱
4 years at 50k miles = 200k miles

200k miles at 0.34kwh/mile = 68k Kwh in 4 years ... at 13 cents home charging overnight = $8,840 in electricity over 4 yrs

200k miles at ~30 mpg blended (BMW 3 series or comparable) = ~6,670 gallons burned over 4 yrs at $4 national average = $26,700 in gasoline over 4yrs

with the $17,800+ saved in just 4 yrs... I think he can afford a few set of tires (especially when factoring in that he saves ~$400 in oil changes annually)
 
We drive 50k/yr, so I have been wondering about the longevity of the Tesla battery. If the car is 70k (MYP), then running up the mileage in a few years would be too costly if it would need 50k of battery and drive units. I was wondering if putting this kind of mileage on a M3 at 45k or 50k would make more sense.
I personally would buy a M3LR or MYLR and dump it just before 120k miles, which is when the battery and drive unit warranty runs out. Then I would buy a new one and start all over again. The gas savings you have on 50k miles a year is ridiculous.

I drive around 20k miles a year and plan on getting a new M3LR every 5 years personally. Too many unknowns and costs once you get outside of the warranty with Tesla. Over time this will get better I'm sure but not worth the risk after 120k miles IMO.
 
I personally would buy a M3LR or MYLR and dump it just before 120k miles, which is when the battery and drive unit warranty runs out. Then I would buy a new one and start all over again. The gas savings you have on 50k miles a year is ridiculous.

I drive around 20k miles a year and plan on getting a new M3LR every 5 years personally. Too many unknowns and costs once you get outside of the warranty with Tesla. Over time this will get better I'm sure but not worth the risk after 120k miles IMO.
More than the some risk to you, selling the car with 10+K miles left on the battery warranty is good sense and greatly reduces the risk for the buyer that they are "buying trouble".

There's also an emotional buyer's issue about buying a vehicle with less than 100K miles.
 
2018 LR RWD - 22,800 MILES
Passenger rear door seal replaced
stinky AC issue - cleaned/new filters
12V battery replaced - luckily was in my garage - replaced under warranty on 8/8/21
front upper control arms replaced due to creaking noise - replaced under warranty on 12/20/21
Drive unit faulty - replaced under warranty on 3/3/22
Still on original tires

Hopefully thats it for a while...damn I had my 2000 nissan maxima for 18 years with less problems..
 
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2020 M3P with 14k miles.

Range: 256 down 15% from the original 299. I bought it as a demo with 1,000 miles but since then it has been charged at home 99% of the time.

Maintenance: A section of plastic underneath had to be replaced after tearing from driving through standing water. A taillight was replaced due to moisture. A camera on the fender was replaced. The only out of pocket expense has been a tire rotation.
 

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