When i asked mobile service how often the 12v goes out he said every 3 years. So he said before your warranty is up just put a request to change the 12v battery so you don't have to pay for it.
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High mileage Model 3's
- Thread starter eCharcoal
- Start date
XLR82XS
D M C
I should have requested one for my W211 E500 4matic estate. NEVER left me stranded and in the top 3 of the most reliable vehicle I've owned. First major problem arose at 198K miles. I sold it right away.
M3BlueGeorgia
Active Member
Good advice for people who only drive 12K miles per year, but we topped out the 50K mileage in under 30 months.
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
My Dodge Sprinter, made by Mercedes Benz, but badged by Dodge (due to all the stinky 80's diesels that MB had shipped to the US, they were no longer allowed to import them). It's my second favorite vehicle.
El joe
Active Member
Can you request a new one without it going out? I would imagine you could just make up a story to make it sound like it was going bad, but they probably run some sort of diagnostic to check that.
My wife’s Pacifica just had to have the 12v battery replaced and it cost me $800, so I’m extra sensitive to this happening.
I had a 2010 GLK350 with 280,000kms on it. Had no major problems, regular service basically over that time. It was a fantastic car. Bought the Tesla 3 SR+ as I didn't want any hassles when things did start going wrong, plus of course wanted a Tesla so no gas costs once I retired. Truly loved the GLK and sold it for around $7000.
Congrats! I'm only around 22,000km on my Sept 19 SR+ plus no issues (I did have to refill the washer fluid). I use winter tires so they get changed each spring and fall. I do wish it was quieter and had suspension as its a pretty bumpy ride but otherwise love it.
Yup. On some roads I really hate driving my Y, and would prefer my 14 year old LX RX 350.
android04
Active Member
You can just buy one from Tesla for $80 and install it yourself. No need to lie, since if they are going to replace it they will check the log files for error messages related to the 12v.
Are you sure the Pacifica 12v battery cost $800? My brother has the Pacifica Hybrid and I don't remember if the battery is under the hood. If the 12v battery is under the 2nd row floor along with the high voltage battery, then it might cost more time and labor to get to it.
Edit: just looked it up and it seems like the Pacific 12v battery is located on the driver side of the rear passenger compartment. And it's a Group Size H6 battery (AGM) that you can find anywhere for around $150.
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El joe
Active Member
Yeah, I have a hunch we got screwed on labor costs. We just bought it from Carmax in September and this is the second issue we've had with it, but this wasn't covered under the MaxCare warranty. Go figure. :/
I'm not very hands-on when it comes to car repairs, obviously, but I'll take a look at replacing the 12v myself when/if the time comes especially after getting burned by the Pacifica.
Thanks!
While I haven't REPLACED the 12V, I have accessed it for a hard reset of the car. The Mountain Pass Instructions for the hard reset include accessing the 12V (which is on the passenger side under the rear seat). You should be able to glean out of this what you need to replace the battery.
[Moderator Edit: 12V Battery is in the frunk, not under the rear seat, as pointed out in subsequent posts]
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El joe
Active Member
insaneoctane
Well-Known Member
66K miles, including 6 track days and on 3rd set of tires? That sounds fairly impressive some how. How many miles on each set?
Well the last 2 track days were on Federal 595RSR, so each set of tires saw 2 track days and lasted about 25-30k miles.
P4S actually last pretty well if you drive them moderately. When pushed really hard they chunk heavily, but if you are nice to them they last ok.
My track days are typically cool lap/hot lap/cool lap so I don't tend to torture them lap after lap and overheat them.
Granted each time I have replaced the tires, there has been at least polyester cord showing, sometimes steel as well. I typically take my tires way further than most dare to.
JCtx
Member
Sorry to contradict you, but the 12V battery is in the frunk, under the cover right above the storage space. And I say that because I checked the terminals for tightness, so I know for a fact it's there
. And also topped off the coolant reservoir, which was right at the 'min' level. What you 'accessed' was the high-voltage battery pack. But you're correct that a hard reset is done there. I'm going to read the instructions how to do that again, in case I need to (which came close on our first trip, when screen froze, and refused to reboot for a while). Take care.
JCtx
Member
I didn't 'interpret' anything'; THAT WAS what he said, clear as water. And yes, I get he didn't mean that too, but just wanted to correct the record, for future Tesla buyers who don't know the car the way we do
.By the way, I wonder if just disconnecting the 12V battery negative side (what you do on an ICE car) could fix issues the screen reset couldn't, without the need for a full hard reset. I might try that first, if I ever need to do that. Then proceed to disconnect the negative terminal again, and then the contactor, if needed.
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In re-reading things, you are 100% correct: the 12 volt battery is in the frunk. You access the high voltage pack under the rear seat.I didn't 'interpret' anything'; THAT WAS what he said, clear as water. And yes, I get he didn't mean that too, but just wanted to correct the record, for future Tesla buyers who don't know the car the way we do
My post above is incorrect, but it is too late for me to edit it unfortunately. My apologies for this incorrect info.
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ETA: Mountain Pass has instructions for installing their 12 volt battery and I am sure they can be used to install any replacement 12 volt. I have not read these for accuracy, but MP usually has spot-on info.
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