I purchased the high wall power charger with the Model S and have had since last March. After my house was re-built after Sandy, which was completed last June, I had the electrician upgrade the power service and install a separate 100 amp service directly to the charger. The charger has never worked. The green light lights, the car recognizes the connection, but that's about it. Back then I had read that the chargers were not able to put out 100 amp service without tripping circuit breakers and that it was being worked on. I also read that Tesla would replace the chargers once the problem was solved. So I figured I'd be patient and had the electrician install a 14-50 50 amp fixture, which I have been using as the primary charging source. So now that some time has gone by, has anyone heard if the home high wall power charger problems have been solved? Any news? Thanks.
I've heard some people getting the new fusses, I may be getting mine tomorrow when my car is returned from service, which is supposed to solve the problem.
Are you certain that your dip switches are properly set? The HPWCs have always worked fine, the car just limited to 60 amps due to a fuse issue inside the HPWC. I would blame whoever installed your charger for the issue and have them fix it, double checking the installation guide to be sure it's properly set up. You may still need the new fuses/fuse holder to safely use at 80amps.
+1 in call your electrician and have them double check the installation and settings. If not working still, call service and have them send a ranger to check the unit and troubleshoot.
Perhaps this is a terminology nitpick, but I think it's important: All reports I've heard are of burning out fuses in the HPWC itself, not tripping circuit breakers. Tesla has a "fuse retrofit" that they are applying to "old" HPWCs, and "new" HPWCs come with the new fuse design before being shipped to customers. In 4.5 firmware (I forget which specific one), when plugged into an HPWC the car uses 60 A as the limit rather than 80 A by default. If you tap the up (to move to 61+) you get a prompt to confirm. Each time you plug in you get prompted again. In 5.6 firmware, the dialog is gone and the default is 80A again. Hope this helps.
I strongly urge you to call customer service and get a case number. really, it sounds like you got a bum unit and I would expect they can get it swapped out easily. waiting around for a "fix" is not going to do it. the new fuses have been available for a while now and the problem that was effecting many has been solved, so much so that they are about to enable full 80A charging as default, as mentioned. you will enjoy having a functional 80A source to take advantage of those dual chargers, we love ours!
IIRC the HPWC is delivered with dip switches setting to "test" configuration. Make sure to power cycle the device after the dip switches were set to the desired current (eg. 80 amps). Use the 100A circuit breaker for this. Without that, no power is delivered.
^^^This. Not 100% but more than likely. Find the DIP switch settings in the HPWC installation guide and at least check them. It's very easy to do. If they ARE set correctly then you probably have another problem. I'd bet that configuring the DIP switches correctly will solve the "problem." Let us know please.
I received new fuses back in July or August. HPWC works great at 80A. It does sound like your electrician didn't follow directions and left the unit in test.
This is exactly what I was thinking. Easy to fix yourself, without an electrician if you're able. Turn off the breaker before opening the charger though. See pages 11 & 12 of the install guide: https://www.teslamotors.com/sites/default/files/blog_attachments/ms_hpwc_installation_guide.pdf
First, just cycle the breaker, if you haven't had a power outage since it was installed. I've seen many people fail to cycle the power after resetting the DIP switches. No need to open it. If it still does that, then you need to grab the T20 and open 'er up, check the DIP switches. Definitely sounds like a test configuration to me, now it's just a matter of determining whether the DIP switches were configured or if it's a simple thing like power cycling it.