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Hit a pothole and got 2 flats on my Model 3 Performance

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I don’t think the rims I have are called Uberturbines. I dunno what people call them they are the original 20” wheels from a 2018 model 3 performance. I’ve always just seen them referred to as the sport wheels. Not the dark gray ones but the lighter silver ones.

I suppose in hindsight I should have just replaced the whole thing with an aftermarket wheel and tire package at the time I had to buy a new rim and 4 tires from Tesla for $2500. It’s just hard to make those decisions when your car is out of commission and you can’t wait around for stuff to ship.
Ah gotcha! Personally I'm not a huge fan of how those wheels look, but aesthetics are very much personal preference so don't mind my downtalking. 😆

Yeah it's really hard to make the best financial decisions when you're stuck needing a repair immediately. Sometimes you just can't wait, your time is valuable too and you need to be back on the road ASAP so you gotta go with whatever the shop you just had your car towed to is offering, even if it's blatantly overpriced. I've been there.
 
I was surprised at how much lighter the car feels with 18s. The turn-in feel is very slightly degraded for the 18s but man, the ride quality I feel has dramatically improved. I don't go crashing over bumps like I did with the 20s and since I got better looking 18s than the stock, I was good with the looks.

Is there supposed to be in increase in range? I can't really tell :D
Range impact of wheels and tires is part rolling resistance of the tire and aerodynamics of the wheel. There's also a little bit of an aerodynamic issue around the tire itself, in that the Tesla spec PS4s have an exceptionally broad-shouldered tread. Great for traction not so great for drag. Larger Wheels have intrinsically more drag because they suck more air and create more turbulence but the Aero wheels on non-performance models really do make a difference in range. Between the rolling resistance increase in something like the Pilot Sport 4S versus the MXM4 and the aerodynamics of an aero wheel vs something else like for example the 20 in stock OEMs you might pick up as much as 10 to 12% extra range. It's kind of amazing that it's that much but you can get some of that back by lowering the car actually. We figured we've picked up 7 to 9% by dropping the cars an inch and a half and adding front air dams to our to Performance Model 3s
 
They’re called the 20” Performance Sport Stiletto wheels, and I’m biased but I think they look fabulous powdercoated in Prismatic gold 😁

A3115971-A316-4961-BBE8-F6177098C302.jpeg


And I completely agree trying to make a decision during a hardship. Buying a new set of wheels and tires actually STILL would have been considerably more than just buying a full set of 4 used rims for $500, getting 2 rims powdercoated again, buying 2 new Michelin TO specific tires, AND having two extra spare rims if I had to do it all over again.
 
They’re called the 20” Performance Sport Stiletto wheels, and I’m biased but I think they look fabulous powdercoated in Prismatic gold 😁

View attachment 740577

And I completely agree trying to make a decision during a hardship. Buying a new set of wheels and tires actually STILL would have been considerably more than just buying a full set of 4 used rims for $500, getting 2 rims powdercoated again, buying 2 new Michelin TO specific tires, AND having two extra spare rims if I had to do it all over again.
Well s***, they look great in gold. I take back my words. 😁

Makes me miss STI forged BBS goldies...
 
Range impact of wheels and tires is part rolling resistance of the tire and aerodynamics of the wheel. There's also a little bit of an aerodynamic issue around the tire itself, in that the Tesla spec PS4s have an exceptionally broad-shouldered tread. Great for traction not so great for drag. Larger Wheels have intrinsically more drag because they suck more air and create more turbulence but the Aero wheels on non-performance models really do make a difference in range. Between the rolling resistance increase in something like the Pilot Sport 4S versus the MXM4 and the aerodynamics of an aero wheel vs something else like for example the 20 in stock OEMs you might pick up as much as 10 to 12% extra range. It's kind of amazing that it's that much but you can get some of that back by lowering the car actually. We figured we've picked up 7 to 9% by dropping the cars an inch and a half and adding front air dams to our to Performance Model 3s

I went from stock 20 inch wheels (2019) with OEM PS4s to 18 inch T-sportline TSS with PS4S. Do you think this would add range as its not the 18 inch Aero wheels and the PS4S has high rolling resistance. I would think it would be very minimal (probably less than 5%). Whats your take?
 
After a lot of reading about the Performance, this are my concerns and why I might change my mind:

1) All that I have been reading about rim cracks and tires going flat. This scares me and I don't want to spend more $$ buying a smaller set of tires and rims or having flat tires.
2) My 3 has 18" rims and when on rough road there can be a lot of road noise. I have read the 20" rims and the tires on the Performance create even more road noise.
The logical solution is to buy a LR model instead and save $8000. Add $2000 for Tesla's "Acceleration Boost" option and you'll have nearly identical performance without the extra insurance cost and registration tax.

But the correct solution is to get the P model (you only live once!), sell the wheels here for ~$2500 and slap on a set of aftermarkets. TSportline and Martian make some great OEM-looking 18-19" wheels ranging from $1500 for a nice Model S replica style to $2400 for a lightweight Roadster replica style, assuming you don't want to dive into the infinite universe of generic wheels.
So then you're just looking at a $1200 visit to the local tire shop and in one hour you've got the car you want with the wheels you like and the tires you deserve.

The wheels I mention are easy - they are an exact OEM fit for the Performance model (brakes, stepped hub, lug nuts, TPMS sensors) so you just throw them in your trunk and head to the tire shop. Plus they have a Tesla OEM appearance so you don't end up looking like a teenager who souped up mom's hand-me-down Camry with some random Pep Boys wheels. In SoCal you should have no trouble finding a local buyer for your original wheel set, snap a pic of them when you get the car and then throw them in the side yard under a tarp until someone picks them up.
 
I love my model 3 but I do miss rolling through the gears and listening to that boxer engine rev. If I ever went back to ICE it would be a WRX for sure.
I want a quad motor STI/Evo style rally-bred EV. That is a car I would sell my M3P for.

On the smaller wheel suggestions front, I'm starting with Titan7 T-S5 in 18x8.5, satin titanium finish. Fully forged and direct M3P fitment just over $2000/set. They also have 19x9 for close to $2900/set. I haven't mounted my 18s up yet, will do in a week or so, but the hub machining looks correct for the step. The finish is nice, nothing cheap looking or feeling about them despite the low price (for fully forged). Haven't put them on a scale yet but they're on the light side. I'm not super picky about the weight to be honest, I want forged mostly for strength, less likely to crack.

I'll note that these 18x8.5 will probably become my winter wheels eventually. I'm going to run through one set of 245/45R18 summer tires on them first though, to see how I feel about the size and width, then I'll pick out a separate set of summer wheels either 18" or 19", maybe wider than 8.5" if I feel like I want more grip.
 
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I ordered smaller wheels for my M3P before I even picked up the car. I'm going down to forged 18s with 245/45 tires, but I think even 19s wearing 245/40 or 255/40 (depending on wheel width) would be a lot more dependable than the stock setup.

Stuff happens and anything can fail or break, but there's a clear pattern and cause for big Tesla OE cast wheels with rubberband tires being an unnecessarily fragile setup.
I’m on the same boat and actively shopping for 19” rims and four season tires before I pick up my M3P in a week or two. What rims do you recommend?
 
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I went from stock 20 inch wheels (2019) with OEM PS4s to 18 inch T-sportline TSS with PS4S. Do you think this would add range as its not the 18 inch Aero wheels and the PS4S has high rolling resistance. I would think it would be very minimal (probably less than 5%). Whats your take?
Hard to tell without more knowledge about the wheels aerodynamics but something like that yes - two identically styled wheels those respective sizes will show an advantage to the 18-inch wheel. Unfortunately the PS4s is not an efficiency champion. Unclear what they're going to do with the Pilot Sport EV to make it more efficient. I do think some of those changes have likely been incorporated into the Tesla spec PS4s Tire - I think of that as Pilot Sport EV light but hopefully there is significantly more refinement that they can do. Probably mostly on the rolling resistance issue probably not so much on aerodynamics but who knows
 
dfwatt:

Thanks for an interesting post.

I have an SR 2019 model 3, I'm 80 years old, I am also a beta tester for FSD

I have been seriously considering moving up to a 2022 m3 Performance. Why? I drove one a couple days ago and it brings out the "boy" in me.

I don't need the range vs what I now have which is 200 miles I don't drive that many miles. My car has 14200 miles and a little over 2 years old.

But I love the feeling the Performance gives when taking off. It does make me feel like a boy again.

After a lot of reading about the Performance, this are my concerns and why I might change my mind:

1) All that I have been reading about rim cracks and tires going flat. This scares me and I don't want to spend more $$ buying a smaller set of tires and rims or having flat tires.
2) My 3 has 18" rims and when on rough road there can be a lot of road noise. I have read the 20" rims and the tires on the Performance create even more road noise.

The above 2 are my concern. If I'm a careful and not a fast driver: Are my concerns justified or not so much?

I will have to give up as a beta tester for FSD to go to the Performance which I'm willing to do, if my 2 concerns are just over blown in my mind and I go ahead and purchase the Performance.

What are your thoughts with the data presented?

Hi Jim - While I'm a couple decades from catching up to you, I can relate with how you feel. To me getting from point A to point B should also be a fun experience. The M3P makes every trip I make around town a recreational event, much to my wife's dismay. To her vehicles are just a tool to get from point A to point B. Luxury is okay for her, but she can't understand having fun driving.

Based on all the good feedback members have posted here, doing it all over again I would have driven from the service center after delivery of my car directly to the tire shop to swap out the 20"rims to 18". You get a more comfortable ride, you're much less likely to destroy tires form sidewall pinch damage, your 0-60 time decreases by close to 0.1 seconds, replacement tires are less expensive, and all that while getting better range. Unless you don't like the look of 18" rims, I can't see a reason to keep the 20" rims. Some will argue you get a bit better handling with the lower profile tires, but most people are not going to a track or racing around corners in the city for that to be a concern.

Tires can make a big difference in the noise level in the car. I had some BRIDGESTONE POTENZA RE-71R tires on a BMW and loved the traction. However, they were quite a bit louder than the PS4S I replaced them with. I literally could hear a velcro peeling sound driving over painted rod markings from the tires sticking more to the paint. Depending on the insulation level of a car, the tires can make a big difference in noise level. I've read that the Model 3 in general skimps on sound insulation compared to others. So the tire tire you pick can make more of a difference in the noise level in the M3. So I'd ask, are you driving so aggressively where you need a summer performance tire that may be louder than say a good quality longer lasting all season tire like maybe a CONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT DWS 06 PLUS?

If you check out the reviews at tirerack.com, you can see the the noise rating for tires under the "Comfort Performance" tab. I just looked up the PS4S noise rating and they get a 8.8 out of 10 score, Continental also 8.8. Pirelli Zero 7.9 and RE-71 a 6.6 on noise. I can attest to the 6.6 as my ears would be ringing after a 1/2 hour freeway drive on the RE-71 tires. So if you do some homework you can find good tires that have good noise ratings in any size. But in general, the thinner the sidewall, the more road noise you will get.

My concern that lead to this thread with the M3P rims is that I drive out to remote places, and by all the posts I've seen now, there is a good chance you can blow out 2 tires by simply going over a small pothole with the stock rims/tires on the M3P.
 
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Ah gotcha! Personally I'm not a huge fan of how those wheels look, but aesthetics are very much personal preference so don't mind my downtalking. 😆

I like the looks OK I more dislike the weakness of the rim and how easily you can get curb scratches on them. That said there are some really nice aftermarket options that look better for sure. I can't complain really, just need to keep my head on a swivel this winter to avoid any road hazards.
 
dfwatt:

Thanks for an interesting post.

I have an SR 2019 model 3, I'm 80 years old, I am also a beta tester for FSD

I have been seriously considering moving up to a 2022 m3 Performance. Why? I drove one a couple days ago and it brings out the "boy" in me.

I don't need the range vs what I now have which is 200 miles I don't drive that many miles. My car has 14200 miles and a little over 2 years old.

But I love the feeling the Performance gives when taking off. It does make me feel like a boy again.

After a lot of reading about the Performance, this are my concerns and why I might change my mind:

1) All that I have been reading about rim cracks and tires going flat. This scares me and I don't want to spend more $$ buying a smaller set of tires and rims or having flat tires.
2) My 3 has 18" rims and when on rough road there can be a lot of road noise. I have read the 20" rims and the tires on the Performance create even more road noise.

The above 2 are my concern. If I'm a careful and not a fast driver: Are my concerns justified or not so much?

I will have to give up as a beta tester for FSD to go to the Performance which I'm willing to do, if my 2 concerns are just over blown in my mind and I go ahead and purchase the Performance.

What are your thoughts with the data presented?
Apologies for the late response. I didn't see any of this until just this morning. Road noise is more about tread and tread design and therefore tire brand and type than it is about wheel diameter. Bigger Wheels do increase your impact vulnerability but we have had very good luck with forged & Barrel rolled Wheels in terms of only one somewhat bent wheel in 65000 miles of driving a fair amount of that on crappy roads. If you enjoy the extra zip and we certainly do there's no reason not to get a performance model 3. I would set some money aside for forged wheels. I do not like the new Uber turbines which are even heavier than the stock OEM. It's unclear whether there are any stronger but they are now over 30 lb 9a piece. This actually increases your vulnerability to impact damage because unsprung weight is harder to move out of the way. It also does not help your acceleration or handling for that matter. Additionally I don't like the Pirelli p-zero tire that they went to as it is distinctly inferior in both handling and other aspects of performance like braking compared to the original OEM Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in a Tesla spec. That's another swap out you can do at some point after your Pirellis are worn down.
 
I actually switched from the OEM Pirellis to the OEM Michelins and detected a slight decrease in traction, quietness, ride quality and responsiveness with the Michelin. What is the basis of the claim that this exact Pirelli is in any way inferior to last year's Michelin? I know there are many subjective claims about PS4S tires generally being "better" than PZ4's, but every size/shape tire is different - especially when considering "Tesla-spec" variants which may be a completely different size/shape/compound than the non Tesla version of that exact same tire.
 
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I actually switched from the OEM Pirellis to the OEM Michelins and detected a slight decrease in traction, quietness, ride quality and responsiveness with the Michelin. What is the basis of the claim that this exact Pirelli is in any way inferior to last year's Michelin? I know there are many subjective claims about PS4S tires generally being "better" than PZ4's, but every size/shape tire is different - especially when considering "Tesla-spec" variants which may be a completely different size/shape/compound than the non Tesla version of that exact same tire.
Obviously your report is an outlier relative to dozens if not hundreds of others. When you say the OEM Michelin did you use the Tesla spec PS4s and are you sure that that's what you got? If you're interested in the source for the commonly quoted meme that the Michelin is better than the Pirelli p-zero consult any number of Tire tests including at Tire Rack or 2021 Tyre Reviews UHP Summer Tyre Test - Tyre Reviews and Tests