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Home charging dropping to 16A

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UI could do with being updated so that it adapts to a mobile phone browser

Personally not sure how that much data would be "fitted" into a small screen, but I'm no designer

I'm still a little nervous about security though since it's got a token to access the car and it stores all my travel details including my home location so if the site got compromised, it would be a car thief's bonanza.

You can generate a token yourself and use that ... but you have to be a bit of a boff ...

The bloke that created TesalFi is making about $350K p.a.in subs by my calculation ... I don't think nicking cars would be good for his business model :) You are only at risk whilst the details are in transit to Tesla server. TeslaFi then uses the resulting token, and doesn't retain your logon credentials (and if you change your My Tesla password that will cancel access from all 3rd party APPs like that).
 
Not sure it's relevent, but similar story here, but on the UMC. Charging at my parents using the 3 pin and umc, starts at 10A for 30 mins or so then starts dropping to 8A, 5A, off for a bit, back to 5 and cycle. T on the UmC flashing some red. Check the plug/socket and find them both significantly toasty! This was a supposedly normal double in the garage. Same story on a second double in the garage, feels like the best was from the socket to, not the plug.

Recently for a solid 8 hours at 10A of an out door socket with no problems. Luckily it's a modern house and came with a binder of info, including writing diagrams. Guess what this evening's fun is?

What I'm saying tho is the car seems to be pretty smart with this stuff and protect itself and the attached infrastructure. If it detects something tho, there may well be a problem :-(
 
I was getting 32A, then all of a sudden started getting only 16A despite trying to manually increase the Amps on the car.

I called up PodPoint, they informed me that the amperage was set low on their side for some reason. Within 5 mins I was up to 32A.

Perhaps the car being a bit too clever for its own good forcing the charger to lower it's output?
 
I was getting 32A, then all of a sudden started getting only 16A despite trying to manually increase the Amps on the car.

I called up PodPoint, they informed me that the amperage was set low on their side for some reason. Within 5 mins I was up to 32A.
I had the same experience. The guy at EVBox was able to control the max charge current from the central system - not that it fixed the problem, but it shows that this sort of control is possible.

Personally, I'm coming to the view that all these fancy chargers are a waste of time and money. They are all overly complex and not really adding much value. A 32A commando socket and the necessary wiring and RCD feeding the UMC would be just fine. The car (plus Teslafi) can sort out start/end times. What more do most people need?
 
I had the same experience. The guy at EVBox was able to control the max charge current from the central system - not that it fixed the problem, but it shows that this sort of control is possible.

Personally, I'm coming to the view that all these fancy chargers are a waste of time and money. They are all overly complex and not really adding much value. A 32A commando socket and the necessary wiring and RCD feeding the UMC would be just fine. The car (plus Teslafi) can sort out start/end times. What more do most people need?

Plus an extra UMC so you don't need to bring your regular one with you and you are sorted as far as I can tell! The proper ones are neater tho...
 
I've had the same issues with my Rolec,

Jumps to 32A at the start - then drops back to 16A. Did that for a few days, now tripping the RCD.

It's getting swapped out for a new unit on Monday...

Whether it's the same issue is hard to say, but even with the 13A UMC plug, it seems to charge for 10/20/30 minutes, then stop charging for no apparent reason.

If the new Rolec gets fitted and has the same issues, then I think the only thing left is something in the car is the problem.

Video here of my issues.


booyaka76, did you get this fixed? What happened? I’m having the exact same problem you were...
 
im having this issue now. never had an issue until this year and impacting both my S and Y (seems like Y is more impacted anecdotally). takes almost a full day to charge to 90%. anyone has a fix? We tried two mobile connectors and same thing, albeit same 14-50 adapter, ordered a new one to test it out. anyone has a fix to this? electrician checked our socket and no issues
 
im having this issue now. never had an issue until this year and impacting both my S and Y (seems like Y is more impacted anecdotally). takes almost a full day to charge to 90%. anyone has a fix? We tried two mobile connectors and same thing, albeit same 14-50 adapter, ordered a new one to test it out. anyone has a fix to this? electrician checked our socket and no issues

This thread is 2 years old ... in fact only the last post is 2 years old ... the post before that is nearer 3 years ... it's also on the UK/Ireland section of the forum so some variation in respect of connector types, mains voltages and approaches to resolution ... might be best to search on the general forum for recent experiences in USA.
 
Thread revival!

I've had similar issues with a 2014 Model S since I got it in 2021. Will charge at full 32 amp on immediate charge but if you use timed charge then it will just drop back to a poor 16 amp max. Not the charger as it's now using a Tesla wallbox and it's doing the same thing as it did on an old dumb Rolec.

It's really annoying and buggered up a few day trips in the early days as the car just wasn't charged fully for the next day.

Has anyone ever got to the bottom of why timed charges reduces power so much when instant charging will always charge at full speed ie 32 amps for the entire time?

Having or not having the CCS upgrade didn't make any difference. It was the same before and after. I'm annoyed it's still doing it on the Tesla wallbox though. I assumed it would just stop this silly behaviour when on a proper tesla wallbox.
 
if you use timed charge then it will just drop back to a poor 16 amp max

Assuming your scheduled charge is same time each day (not a moving target time-of-use) then you could try using something like TeslaFi scheduler to change the AMPs to 32 (maybe repeatedly during he Off Peak period, if it still drops back). It would also log what actual AMPs were used, so you'd be able to check if / how often it dropped back during Off Peak period.

2 week free trial (a month with a referral code, you can use my handle here if you like) to see if that solves anything.

Only other thought is that it has "remembered" 16 AMPs "for that location" and is, somehow, combining that with "Scheduled charge" (i.e. it is using a different Value for when you just manually schedule a charge)

Also, if there is some hefty power consumption, during off peak, then the charger may be detecting that and throttling back. My PowerWalls do that when charging overnight if the car is also charging - i.e. the PowerWall notices high AMP consumption and throttles back (from 10AMPs to 3.5AMPs from memory)

But I would expect the Wall Charger to do that, NOT the car, and I doubt the old Rolec was capable of doing anything that smart (unless that requirement was in the REGs back then)

TeslaFi04.gif
 
It's not a time related thing specifically as I changed the scheduled time before to different times and literally any schedule time will make it drop back. I use the scheduler in the tesla app for the car. I have tried it from within the car and it did the same as far as I remember.

You have to plug in with no schedule on to get the max charge rate.

Schedules are off on the wallbox. That's set to immediate. Rolec didn't have anything.
 
Maybe the car remembers a previous 16A location setting? Try factory reset or using scheduled charging at a different location. How do you know it is only charging 16A? If you see it in the phone/car then fine. If you’re reading smart meter data then check you’re not reading the kWh for a 30 minutes block (half hourly metering) as opposed to for 1h (ie. car is charging fine, you’re just reading the data wrong).
 
Maybe the car remembers a previous 16A location setting? Try factory reset or using scheduled charging at a different location. How do you know it is only charging 16A? If you see it in the phone/car then fine. If you’re reading smart meter data then check you’re not reading the kWh for a 30 minutes block (half hourly metering) as opposed to for 1h (ie. car is charging fine, you’re just reading the data wrong).

It's read on the car. It's in the same location so there is no logical reason that timed would be different from immediate.
 
I really want to find out why it is doing it

Understood, but my thought was that if e.g. TeslaFi can Elastoplast it for you then at least you'll get full whack during the night, and not wake up to a half charged car

TeslaFi would also log the various values - which might shed some light on it. For example, it might be starting at 32 AMPs and then, immediately-ish, dropping back to 16.

there is no logical reason that timed would be different from immediate

For a human, yes. For software anything is possible - some bug that causes the Scheduled Charge to pick the AMPs from the "stored for this location" setting, but get the wrong thing compared to the code that gets the Immediate value.
 
Are you using timed charge because it at a different time of day than manual charge?

Car will fall back amps if it senses that voltage is fluctuating. This may because to a supply fault or simply because supply capacity is marginal.

If you, or surrounding properties have high power use devices, EV’s, heat pumps, storage heaters, immersions etc, that only work at certain times of day, eg off peak, then that may be enough to drop voltage to levels that car may not be happy with and then start to derate charge rate. There is no set voltage this, but if voltage is significantly less than 230v, it’s a good indication that this may be happening and if it’s 220v or less, a high probability.

If this is the case, contact the DNO, electrical supply (rather than billing) company.
 
Voltage is generally 238-242v whenever I've checked. Got a readout on a UPS that shows incoming supply voltage.

As soon as you flip to scheduled the app shows max 16 amps immediately. I've changed the time from over night to later in the evening. Same result. I don't think it's taking into account any local load at all. It just sets the max in the app/car with no regard to it.

I've not had any other car behave like this. They've all charged the same speed regardless of whether they were on timed or charge now.