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Home charging options with full panel

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Wall connectors (not chargers, BTW) are hardwired. If they are not hardwired and use an outlet, then a GFCI breaker or outlet is required by code. The code refers to outlets.
The Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector is designed to be hard wired, period. (Tesla does not provide installation instructions for installing a power cord, plug with the Wall Connector so the Wall Connector must be hard wired.) A Wall Connector that has been fitted with a power cord, plug is not code compliant. Any new receptacle installed for use with EV charging, per the 2017, 2020 NEC, requires GFCI protection.
 
After going through all the suggestions and recommendations, I will go with the wall charger. I can't use the max amps since my panel is pretty full so I'll either swap for a 50/50 quad or 40/40 quad and run new wire and conduit to the charger. Thanks everyone for all the help!

Hopefully last question: would 8 gauge wire be sufficient for the 50 amp circuit if it's only going 6-10 feet or should I use 6 gauge?
 
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After going through all the suggestions and recommendations, I will go with the wall charger. I can't use the max amps since my panel is pretty full so I'll either swap for a 50/50 quad or 40/40 quad and run new wire and conduit to the charger. Thanks everyone for all the help!

Hopefully last question: would 8 gauge wire be sufficient for the 50 amp circuit if it's only going 6-10 feet or should I use 6 gauge?
Distances of this length don't matter. What matters is the wire type, wire gauge and circuit rating. You can only use NM-B (Romex), 8 gauge, with up to a 40 amp circuit. To use 8 gauge wire with a 50 amp circuit you need to another type of wire such as THWN (up to 50 amps) or THHN (up to 55 amps). NM-B needs to be 6 gauge for a 50 amp circuit.
 
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I’m hoping someone can help me make sense of my charging options at home and hopefully find a way to charge faster than the 3 miles from a 5-15 outlet without having to spend thousands on rewiring or installation costs.

Right now I have solar and looking at two options:
  • Converting 5-20 outlet to 6-20 outlet
  • Installing wall charger
My preference is to go with #1 since it should hopefully be the cheapest and I don’t need the fastest charge because I don’t drive a lot of miles every day. I have a 200 amp electric panel, but it only holds 20 breakers and it’s completely full.

The 5-20 outlet has its own breaker and is the only receptacle on the line with a 15 amp breaker. The breaker marked “Solar Monitor” is a double pole 20 amp breaker, but it connects to a 120v single outlet which splits to the monitoring device.

Is there a way to easy change out the 5-20 to a 6-20 given this configuration? If not, would it be possible to change the receptacle on the “Solar Monitor” line to a 6-20 instead?
My advice is to seek out a licensed electrician in your locality that has experience in installing EV/Tesla chargers that will file the necessary local permits, arrange for an inspection, and assist you in filing the necessary forms and paperwork to obtain any local utility rebates. Just add the cost of your first EV as an option just like the purchase of a previous ICE vehicle.
 
After going through all the suggestions and recommendations, I will go with the wall charger. I can't use the max amps since my panel is pretty full so I'll either swap for a 50/50 quad or 40/40 quad and run new wire and conduit to the charger. Thanks everyone for all the help!

Hopefully last question: would 8 gauge wire be sufficient for the 50 amp circuit if it's only going 6-10 feet or should I use 6 gauge?
You have 200AMP in the main panel so if you find a spot for a two-pole breaker, I don't see any reason why you can't go with max amps setup (60A breaker and 48A charge speed).
 
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it doesn't matter how full your panel is, it's does matter what the draw is to determine what you have room for as far amperage. If your already drawing 190 amps on your panel then you don't have room for a charger. If you are drawing 100 amps then you have plenty of room for a 60 amp breaker as long as you move stuff around to physically make a spot for that breaker. You need to have an electrician calculate continuous load.......this is standard before any install and will need to be submitted for CODE and any government rebates you might receive
 
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You need to have an electrician calculate continuous load.......this is standard before any install and will need to be submitted for CODE and any government rebates you might receive
That's not quite correct. An electrician or other qualified person should calculate the expected load given the circuits in play. Its not only continuous load, but more like expected concurrent load.

Submitting load calculations isn't required by any permitting bodies I know of, but I don't know many.

There's absolutely no requirement of any technical documentation for the government rebates. TBH unless you are audited, you don't even need proof you bought or installed a charger.
 
That's not quite correct. An electrician or other qualified person should calculate the expected load given the circuits in play. Its not only continuous load, but more like expected concurrent load.

Submitting load calculations isn't required by any permitting bodies I know of, but I don't know many.

There's absolutely no requirement of any technical documentation for the government rebates. TBH unless you are audited, you don't even need proof you bought or installed a charger.
we need to clarify this is canada. Could be totally different here. Load does need to be calculated to pass inspection and is mandatory to receive BC rebates. Paperwork has to be filled out by a certified electrician qualified to pull a permit to do the work

Required documentation​

Make sure you have the necessary documents ready before you start your rebate application. The documents required vary depending on your project.
  • If the charger was installed by a licensed electrician
    You’ll need to provide:
    • Charger invoice showing proof of payment
    • Installation invoice (must show proof of payment and itemized costs broken down by activities performed). See a sample invoice.
    • Electrical permit number
    • Picture of the installed EV charging station
 
Why are you against tandem breakers?

Breakers are thermally activated, read they generate heat through normal use. Tandom breakers reduce the amount of space the heat has to dissipate, resulting in heat build up which can degrade the life of the panel overtime.

But it depends on the loads, as most breakers in your panel never draw more than a few amps at a time.

Tandems are OK but not ideal.
 
Not sure if this was mentioned and also unsure how much it is in your area but have you tried getting a quote for a energy management box that's connected directly to your meter? You can then have them install a wall charger. This is the option that we're likely going for since it's thousands of dollars cheaper than having to trench since we're pretty maxed out.
 
What happens when the panel gets degraded?

Panels do not degrade, they are just two metal circuit paths with places to add breakers. Potentially, tandem breakers (as well as standard ones) under high loads could degrade due to heat degradation.

FWIW I have a 200A panel completely full of double and tandem breakers, it is 30+ years old with zero problems. I suggest most issues are likely due to buying cheap products.
 
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Panels do not degrade, they are just two metal circuit paths with places to add breakers. Potentially, tandem breakers (as well as standard ones) under high loads could degrade due to heat degradation.

FWIW I have a 200A panel completely full of double and tandem breakers, it is 30+ years old with zero problems. I suggest most issues are likely due to buying cheap products.

Panels absolutely do degrade. The metal bus oxidizes, the metal enclosure rusts away, and the insulating plastic can melt/become extremely brittle over time.
 
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Panels absolutely do degrade. The metal bus oxidizes, the metal enclosure rusts away, and the insulating plastic can melt/become extremely brittle over time.
My house originally had 150A service and a fuse panel. After 50 years the metal lug where the neutral connection attaches to the back plane of the panel snapped from metal fatigue. Fun times; the neutral connection went bad but was not completely disconnected from the panel. Trouble shooting that took some work.

I asked the electrician who I hired to upgrade my service to 200A and install a new, good quality service panel (i.e. better than builder grade.). The electrician said that the construction of the panel, especially the thickness of the copper of the back plane all contributed to a better quality panel.

Heat and humidity take their toll. I would expect a panel installed in a dry basement environment to normally last many decades. A panel installed in a garage in the gulf coast area of the US would start to show signs of corrosion, degradation much sooner.