Small back story:
At my last house, and now my current one, the water DESTROYED two cars. Detailing shops and thousands of dollars later could not fix the water spots.
5+ years of $600/year (2 cars) car wash unlimited pass: zero water spots across 4 cars.
However, washing my car, in my driveway, like I assume for many people, is therapeutic. It's your car, you want to keep it nice. I was tired of the hassle of hand washing in a bay, and funny looks from chumps. Then trying to get it 100% for the drive home, where it would obviously get dirty within seconds.
After MUCH research and finding a few off the shelf solutions ($700+) that would offer what I was looking for... or close to, but not quite (not enough volume/pressure). I decided to build my own! I'm that special kind of person who likes a challenge that keeps him up and night and makes himself regret things or bleed on occasion.
So, I wanted wash my car at home. Problem: Well Water. (I got to learn a LOT about water) (But my advice is only worth what you've paid for it, so it's all AT YOUR OWN RISK).
Well water: 60-80 PSI on the pump (I cranked that baby long ago). Hardness rating: 13. 135 PPM TDS.
Parts Per Million, Total Disolved Solids. So for every 1,000,000 gallons of water, I have 135 gallons of 'crap'. (most likely calcium I think).
Flows to a 5 micron sediment filter. Followed by a water softner, followed by a 1 micron to the house.
Output: 0-1 hardness, 135 ppm TDS
So, the house water is ecologically sounds and 100% healthy for human consumption.
However the water destroys anything glass / car. Shower door? destroyed. Car paint? Destroyed. Car glass? Must be replaced to be fixed.
So... time for the only thing you can do. Reverse Osmosis. (links to everything I can remember at bottom).
75 GPD RO/DI system. + Shut off float valve. = makes RO/DI Water (De ionization).
Water comes in at the above, hits a 5 micron filter, hits a carbon filter, then RO membrane.
Water comes out a 1-3 PPM TDS. (pretty good!) 99% reduction.
Water hits the DI system, and comes out at ZERO TDS.
Water fills a broken (wheels broke) 64 gallon bin to the limit of the float valve.
Water then goes to the Harbor Freight 1 HP 30/50 PSI Shallow Well Pump with tank.
Water exits via 3/4" PEX to a 1/4 turn hose nozzle out the side of my house, to the driveway to be used to wash my cars.
I still have a small leak at the in and or out of the pump Blue Monster tape is awesome for plumbing.
Shark Bites are awesome. The smell of PVC glue takes me back... I used a union so I could move the water tank and pump for service issues.
I have not finished the wiring for the pump yet, but just used extension cord for testing. Washed my X last night and it shows ZERO water spots today. Pressure from the setup is good. My hose nozzle sucks, so I need one of those now...
Anyway, I'll post the links next. if you're neurotic like me you can now have a clean car, if you want... it's my little unpaid hour of therapy...
Ignore the water the ground lol that was a mistake.
At my last house, and now my current one, the water DESTROYED two cars. Detailing shops and thousands of dollars later could not fix the water spots.
5+ years of $600/year (2 cars) car wash unlimited pass: zero water spots across 4 cars.
However, washing my car, in my driveway, like I assume for many people, is therapeutic. It's your car, you want to keep it nice. I was tired of the hassle of hand washing in a bay, and funny looks from chumps. Then trying to get it 100% for the drive home, where it would obviously get dirty within seconds.
After MUCH research and finding a few off the shelf solutions ($700+) that would offer what I was looking for... or close to, but not quite (not enough volume/pressure). I decided to build my own! I'm that special kind of person who likes a challenge that keeps him up and night and makes himself regret things or bleed on occasion.
So, I wanted wash my car at home. Problem: Well Water. (I got to learn a LOT about water) (But my advice is only worth what you've paid for it, so it's all AT YOUR OWN RISK).
Well water: 60-80 PSI on the pump (I cranked that baby long ago). Hardness rating: 13. 135 PPM TDS.
Parts Per Million, Total Disolved Solids. So for every 1,000,000 gallons of water, I have 135 gallons of 'crap'. (most likely calcium I think).
Flows to a 5 micron sediment filter. Followed by a water softner, followed by a 1 micron to the house.
Output: 0-1 hardness, 135 ppm TDS
So, the house water is ecologically sounds and 100% healthy for human consumption.
However the water destroys anything glass / car. Shower door? destroyed. Car paint? Destroyed. Car glass? Must be replaced to be fixed.
So... time for the only thing you can do. Reverse Osmosis. (links to everything I can remember at bottom).
75 GPD RO/DI system. + Shut off float valve. = makes RO/DI Water (De ionization).
Water comes in at the above, hits a 5 micron filter, hits a carbon filter, then RO membrane.
Water comes out a 1-3 PPM TDS. (pretty good!) 99% reduction.
Water hits the DI system, and comes out at ZERO TDS.
Water fills a broken (wheels broke) 64 gallon bin to the limit of the float valve.
Water then goes to the Harbor Freight 1 HP 30/50 PSI Shallow Well Pump with tank.
Water exits via 3/4" PEX to a 1/4 turn hose nozzle out the side of my house, to the driveway to be used to wash my cars.
I still have a small leak at the in and or out of the pump Blue Monster tape is awesome for plumbing.
Shark Bites are awesome. The smell of PVC glue takes me back... I used a union so I could move the water tank and pump for service issues.
I have not finished the wiring for the pump yet, but just used extension cord for testing. Washed my X last night and it shows ZERO water spots today. Pressure from the setup is good. My hose nozzle sucks, so I need one of those now...
Anyway, I'll post the links next. if you're neurotic like me you can now have a clean car, if you want... it's my little unpaid hour of therapy...
Ignore the water the ground lol that was a mistake.
