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Homelink and Liftmaster 8500
- Thread starter Local host
- Start date
I believe the solution to the Homelink/Liftmaster problem is to use a HomeLink Compatibility Bridge. Any of the Liftmaster openers that were manufactured before 2016 will not work with the Homelink system without the bridge.
HOMELINKBRIDGEKIT Compatibility Bridge | LiftMaster
HOMELINKBRIDGEKIT Compatibility Bridge | LiftMaster
My Liftmaster is working again with my Tesla. It stoped working this spring and I didn’t bother with it as I was mainly driving another vehicle. When I started driving the Tesla again months later, it still didn’t work. I just kept pressing the home button on the screen and eventually it worked (I was procrastinating on reprogramming). It’s been working for over a month now!
We have three LiftMaster 8500 garage door openers from 2014 and have never had any problems controlling them with any of the seven Teslas we have bought over the past two and a half years. We do not have the compatibility bridge.
Not only have we never had any problems, but it was incredibly easy to program the Teslas to control the LiftMaster 8500 units. All we had to do was go to the Homelink screen in the cars and follow the step to push the garage remote button in front of the car bumper. We never had to do the additional step of pushing the learn button on the garage door opener.
Yinn
Active Member
Not all liftmasters are created equal. There are a number of different Liftmaster jackshaft openers out there. Unless you installed or purchased them yourself; chances are you might not actually have a Liftmaster 8500. Hopefully the info below will help as I did extensive research prior to purchasing and installing my own openers.
The residential Liftmaster jackshaft opener was originally the Liftmaster 3800. It's essentially the same opener without the myQ connectivity. This one is fully compatible with a standard 2 button remote, homelink, etc. From an installation perspective; it is tremendously easy to install. You can reuse all the sensors and buttons that's already in place and universal with any existing keypads and remotes.
Several years later, Liftmaster updated the 3800 and relaunched it as the the residential Liftmaster 8500. The 8500 offered myQ connectivity; a properietary IoT control. This also changed the frequencies at which it operates and the compatibility with existing sensors, remotes, keypads, and buttons. If you have a good installer, they would have replaced everything or if you already had "smart" buttons, or existing liftmaster parts then they would be compatible. These do NOT work with homelink without a bridge; but Liftmaster will happily sell you one for the retail price of $27.50.The HOMELINK RPTR | HOMELINK COMPATIBILITY BRIDGE | LiftMaster
The old residential Liftmaster 3800 was then rebranded to be the Liftmaster 3900; which is a Light Duty Commercial opener. Called such because it doesn't have any of the restrictions. The Liftmaster 3900 can be purchased a la carte or in a bundle with a light, sensors, locks, and a button. This reduced the cost of a opener significantly as well.
Now, why might have you gotten a 3800 or a 3900 instead of an 8500? Because an 8500 costs around $400. Compared to a 3900 that runs $200. Visually they look the same. The majority of the components are the same. So unless you specifically asked about myQ functionality; a dishonest installer might be able to charge the $400 - or $500 with markup; and buy a 3900 to make an extra $200. Meanwhile; they pitch it that it's fully compatible with even old systems and save time and labor on their installation. (I'm a pessimist; it's possible they simply had old stock and didn't realize the difference)
Ironically; because of the universal compatability with existing parts as well as smart home systems; I went out and found an old stock 3800 and subsequently two 3900 for my own use. A lot of other diy garage guys are doing the same as they've become more desirable than the 8500's.
Hope this helps people in the thread.
The residential Liftmaster jackshaft opener was originally the Liftmaster 3800. It's essentially the same opener without the myQ connectivity. This one is fully compatible with a standard 2 button remote, homelink, etc. From an installation perspective; it is tremendously easy to install. You can reuse all the sensors and buttons that's already in place and universal with any existing keypads and remotes.
Several years later, Liftmaster updated the 3800 and relaunched it as the the residential Liftmaster 8500. The 8500 offered myQ connectivity; a properietary IoT control. This also changed the frequencies at which it operates and the compatibility with existing sensors, remotes, keypads, and buttons. If you have a good installer, they would have replaced everything or if you already had "smart" buttons, or existing liftmaster parts then they would be compatible. These do NOT work with homelink without a bridge; but Liftmaster will happily sell you one for the retail price of $27.50.The HOMELINK RPTR | HOMELINK COMPATIBILITY BRIDGE | LiftMaster
The old residential Liftmaster 3800 was then rebranded to be the Liftmaster 3900; which is a Light Duty Commercial opener. Called such because it doesn't have any of the restrictions. The Liftmaster 3900 can be purchased a la carte or in a bundle with a light, sensors, locks, and a button. This reduced the cost of a opener significantly as well.
Now, why might have you gotten a 3800 or a 3900 instead of an 8500? Because an 8500 costs around $400. Compared to a 3900 that runs $200. Visually they look the same. The majority of the components are the same. So unless you specifically asked about myQ functionality; a dishonest installer might be able to charge the $400 - or $500 with markup; and buy a 3900 to make an extra $200. Meanwhile; they pitch it that it's fully compatible with even old systems and save time and labor on their installation. (I'm a pessimist; it's possible they simply had old stock and didn't realize the difference)
Ironically; because of the universal compatability with existing parts as well as smart home systems; I went out and found an old stock 3800 and subsequently two 3900 for my own use. A lot of other diy garage guys are doing the same as they've become more desirable than the 8500's.
Hope this helps people in the thread.
SalisburySam
Active Member
In most cases you are actually “programming” two devices: your car and the garage door lift. You program the car first, then program to lift to recognize the car. The HomeLink protocol only allows up to 3 devices to be controlled by the vehicle. Most lifts allow up to five “things” to control it, but the Liftmaster 8500 allows many more. So, some things to try:
1- the Owner’s Manual of HomeLink-compatible vehicles I’ve owned, including the Model 3, all state that new batteries should first be put into the remote used to program the vehicle. Doesn’t matter if the remote already works well on its own, just put new batteries into it. From the HomeLink website:
3- Ensure your garage door itself opens/closes easily by disconnecting the LiftMaster using the red handle and moving the door manually. You should be able to easily completely open and close the garage door. If you cannot, the tension bar across the top needs adjustment. While this can be DIY, it is far safer to have a pro do this. Some of the rollers could also be out of alignment, binding due to rust or dirt, or the track itself could be bent or binding in some spots. All need fixing to get proper operation of the lift device.
4- Lastly, lube everything on the garage door and track that moves with a silicone spray lubricant or grease, which is better than the more common WD40. WD40 is water displacement fluid hence the name, silicone lubricant is a lube. You want a lube. Don’t park your car under the open garage door after just lubing...there will likely be undesirable drippage for awhile.
1- the Owner’s Manual of HomeLink-compatible vehicles I’ve owned, including the Model 3, all state that new batteries should first be put into the remote used to program the vehicle. Doesn’t matter if the remote already works well on its own, just put new batteries into it. From the HomeLink website:
- Put a new battery in your handheld transmitter. Training the HomeLink® takes more power from the battery than when you push the button to open the door. Sometimes by putting a new battery in the handheld transmitter, it does help pick up a better signal and increases the range.
3- Ensure your garage door itself opens/closes easily by disconnecting the LiftMaster using the red handle and moving the door manually. You should be able to easily completely open and close the garage door. If you cannot, the tension bar across the top needs adjustment. While this can be DIY, it is far safer to have a pro do this. Some of the rollers could also be out of alignment, binding due to rust or dirt, or the track itself could be bent or binding in some spots. All need fixing to get proper operation of the lift device.
4- Lastly, lube everything on the garage door and track that moves with a silicone spray lubricant or grease, which is better than the more common WD40. WD40 is water displacement fluid hence the name, silicone lubricant is a lube. You want a lube. Don’t park your car under the open garage door after just lubing...there will likely be undesirable drippage for awhile.
When programming the car, you can use the Reset Location setting to change where the signal is sent from. Alternatively or in addition to setting the location, you can also set the distance of how far away the signal should be sent.
Yeah, I can’t seem to get it to open the garage reliably at 50+ ft setting. Looking for options to actually do something to the operator to make it receive signals at 60 to 100ft.
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