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Homelink help!
- Thread starter thebeezknez
- Start date
gizmoboy
Member
You also need to make sure you hold it close to the sensor in the bumper (front left, IIRC).
There are troubleshooting options on the homeland website for many cars and opener models as well.
Had a harder time with my S than either of our M3s.
There are troubleshooting options on the homeland website for many cars and opener models as well.
Had a harder time with my S than either of our M3s.
Thanks , the website was super helpful. I had to change my garage door opener remote settings and it walked me right through it. Homelink now works perfect
Another thing to watch out for is having LED bulbs in your opener. Most LED bulbs cause interference with the signal from the remote. If you have LED bulbs in your opener swap them out for LEDs that are specifically designed for garage door openers. Genie sells these kind of bulbs. I had a lot of issues with homelink on my Model 3 for a long time and everything was resolved after I swapped out the old bulbs in my opener.
This is absolute bunk, BTW. The light bulbs aren't on when you're opening your door, and strangely nobody seems to complain that bulbs interfere with closing doors. The problem you may have with LED bulbs is that they aren't as tapered as an incandescent, so they might not screw all the way into the socket.
astrowunder
Member
Not bunk.
You have to buy specific LED's that don't interfere with the opener frequency
You have to buy specific LED's that don't interfere with the opener frequency
Meanwhile my cheap-o "Ecosmart" home depot brand LED bulbs work without issue in my Chamberlain opener. Bulbs that aren't on can't affect the opener. They're off.
astrowunder
Member
But they're ON when you open your door and your car leaves the garage (unless you've waiting 5 minutes or so after opening to leave). Once you're out of your garage, it may not close because the bulbs are on and interfering.
It's also possible some LED bulbs don't have this problem, but some do. Specialty LEDs specifically for garage doors aren't that expensive and are guaranteed to work. I'm glad you don't have this problem, but I'm also glad I bought the right design when I installed LEDs in my garage door openers.
It's also possible some LED bulbs don't have this problem, but some do. Specialty LEDs specifically for garage doors aren't that expensive and are guaranteed to work. I'm glad you don't have this problem, but I'm also glad I bought the right design when I installed LEDs in my garage door openers.
Exactly. This is an actual issue. Just because someone else isn’t experiencing the problem doesn’t mean it is not a problem for other people. I mostly encountered problems with my previous LED bulbs because when I opened my garage in the morning and backed my 3 out the bulbs in the opener were still on when I went to close the garage door. I would sometimes have to tap the homelink button 3 or 4 times to get it to close. With the new LED bulbs I installed this doesn’t happen at all anymore. The garage door closes or opens every single time now on the first try regardless if the bulbs in the opener are on or not at the time.
They're over $9 each, and you need two. The generic brand ones are under $3.50 each. So far there has been no scientific information provided, like the output of a spectrum analyzer or anything of that nature. What we do see is companies selling expensive bulbs talking a lot about this problem. I wonder why.
And just think of all of those commercial shops that have moved over to LED lighting fixtures, but somehow aren't experiencing this problem. Or, like I said before, the fact that I have my car programmed to open my door from 50 feet away with no issues whatsoever. And the fact that I can close it while I drive away, too.
Maybe if people were buying counterfeit bulbs from who knows where at this point, and those bulbs had an unbelievably high frequency switch mode supply in them, and the components were a total fire hazard because they were so low quality, then maybe I could believe this. But then you'd have to explain to me why a CFL bulb didn't cause the same exact problem since the RF given off from the plasma is completely unshielded. The guy in the video above is using the exact LED bulbs I am, and I can open and close my doors from very far away with my hand held remote as well as my car. Light on or off. Not a single problem.
Look, I was just trying to be helpful to others here that may be experiencing a problem. The solution I posted worked for me. I’m sorry I don’t have any scientific evidence to prove what I observed happening with my opener and a specific brand and model of led bulb. What I do know is that many people have posted about this on many different sites so there is clearly some sort of issue. There are quite a few different model openers out there and many different model LED bulbs as well. It’s probably a specific combination of bulbs and openers that cause some sort of issue.
If this wasn’t a real problem then I wonder why Chamberlain has a support article about this very problem on their website: https://support.chamberlaingroup.co...-I-use-in-my-garage-door-opener-1484145692747
Which links to an list of LED bulbs from a variety of manufacturers that are compatible with certain openers:
https://www.liftmaster.com/catalogr.../tucmanuals/led bulb compatibility_011714.pdf
If this information is helpful and allows someone here to solve a similar problem then great. I really have no interest in arguing about this any further.
astrowunder
Member
So you believe the video I posted was faked so the creator of the video could make more money? You believe that hundreds of people reporting this problem are part of a vast LED conspiracy intended to make us all spend $6 more per lightbulb for our door openers?
Here is an article describing the RF interference by some LED bulbs- note the actual interference is caused by the driver, not the LED's themselves. The frequency range is 30-300 mhz which can overlap with some openers.
Have you tried to look up any of those bulbs,? Almost all of them have been discontinued because they're so old. I looked at this list last month when I installed a new opener, and when you search for the models listed they're only available from sketchy sites, or they're not available at all.
I don't really want to keep going with the back and forth. We've both said our bit, I respectfully disagree that this is an actual problem that requires someone to buy bulbs that are more than 3x the cost of ones that work perfectly. But I again point out that if you're using what would effectively be extremely old, unshielded, certainly not UL certified or FCC approved, probably illegal to import bulbs, then maybe you could be having this problem.
At no point did I say this.
Nor did I say this. But I would point out that "hundreds" of complaints would represent an extreme minority of garage door openers deployed in the US alone. People believe all kinds of incorrect stuff they see on the internet. Why would it be surprising that they believe something incorrect about devices they don't understand?
Just to fully explain what that article says, and what I said above in a previous post, if you buy illegal bulbs made with dangerous parts to dangerous "standards", then you get what you deserve. An EMC violation in Australia is a violation of the electromagnetic compliance code. A rough equivalent in the US would be FCC and UL compliance, which every electrical device you buy should achieve. If you're buying generic LED bulbs from random ebay sellers, you're as likely to start a fire in your home as you are to have a garage door that doesn't close from the remote.
Several of the bulbs in their test showed negligible increases in EMI. The worst case bulb, which also operates at over 60C from their own tests, isn't even an A19 bulb so it doesn't qualify for this discussion. The takeaway here needs to be that if you buy uncertified bulbs from an unknown source, they were made by a manufacturer that is cutting dangerous corners, and the bulbs likely violate NEC and US law.
astrowunder
Member
You said:
I then showed you a video proving that in at least one case an LED bulb caused interference and explained a common instance where the bulbs ARE on when operating the door. Also a member on this forum had 1st hand experience of the problem. Therefore, it is not "absolute bunk" and your statement that nobody complains about the bulbs was wrong.
I don't dispute the problem may be rare, but for me (who just bought a $60k car) I would rather purchase bulbs that are guaranteed to work- even if it costs a few dollars more- than to buy bulbs that may cause problems. Neither you nor I know how widespread the problem is, but the problem clearly exists in some cases.
Stupid question, but... what happens if you do not see the Homelink icon on your screen to even start the programming process? It is supposed to be in the top left next to the lock/unlock icon, and I do not see it. What am I missing here? I have a Genie Intellicode opener, with a remote, so I don't get why there is no icon there.
android04
Active Member
If you don't have the premium interior (used to be called Premium Upgrades Package), then you won't have Homelink.
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OK, thanks for the info Android... that wasn't made clear to me by anyone at Tesla. I have the Standard Plus, which has a "Partial Premium interior"... for a while I wondered what was partial about it, now I know. Seems pretty arbitrary, the kind of features they take out of the lower packages, can't imagine that the Homelink sensor isn't on the car, it's just a blocked menu option.
I guess I will have to take on the physically demanding chore of pressing the remote button every time
JG
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