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Homelink is not working after MCU2 upgrade

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Hi.
I have 2017 75D. A few months ago, I paid $1,650 to upgrade to MCU2. And I lost my home link function. Before replacing this, I had been using the home link function for nearly 5 years. To explain the situation, I came home after the replacement and tried to open the garage by pressing the home link button as usual. But it didn't open. I thought, maybe the hardware changed, and the profile disappeared, so I programmed it again. Naturally, I successfully finished programming and tried to open the garage door, but surely an animation that unfolds the shape of the antenna, such as sending a signal on the screen, is expressed normally. But the garage door doesn't wriggle. I went to the service center and inquired. Simply put, their conclusion is that there are separate modules that register the garage door opener and modules that actually sending a signal to the receiver to open the door. They said that they did not touch the module that signals to the receiver at all whiles upgrading to MCU2. The reason is that this module is not in MCU2 and is far away from other locations. I couldn't understand what they said, but I had no choice and accept their argument.

In summary, I have been using the home link well for nearly 5 years, but I lost the home link function after replacing it with MCU2. Annoyingly, the registration is successfully completed after dozens of attempts, but the function of sending radio signal seems to be blocked or not working.

Do you have any idea or suggestion?
 
Suggestions? Not at the moment but I would advise not to give up. My 2013 was easily reprogrammed after the MCU2 upgrade and Homelink has been working flawlessly ever since so this is NOT the normal situation.

I know this is NOT the normal situation. However, no matter how hard I tried googling, I couldn't find the information I wanted. I want to know whether the modules were actually separated, whether the radio module could be broken without any luck after MCU2 replacement, and whether there was a mistake by a Tesla engineer. No one is giving a clear answer to my question. Also, I have to prove this injustice now that I thought it was unfair because they had the keys. I'm so frustrate for this.
 
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Homelink is a separate module and it learns and stores the command codes for your garage door. It is mounted near the front of the car. The only thing MCU does is remember the name and button. It sends commands to the module via the LIN2 bus. So if it's not working, it could be the module, wiring between the module and the MCU or the MCU's LIN2 bus. This bus is also connected to the 12v battery monitor, so if the connection or MCU was bad, I'd expect the 12v monitor to also not work and you'd get error messages.

Now the Homelink module has changed over the years (mainly to support more garage door codes and frequencies). My guess is if you have a very early car, perhaps Homelink command codes have changed and MCU2 can't fully communicate with the old Homelink. Ideally, Tesla should be able to send the command old codes, but the software would have to support it, something the engineers may not have foreseen. So one solution is a new Homelink module that is known to work with MCU2. It may also be some kind of service setting to identify the correct Homelink module type. Tesla is not a "Plug-and-Play" type system that we are used to in consumer PCs. Each module type must be pre-identified for it to work.

I know this is not your problem to solve, but just providing some background on how it works, connects, and possible ideas on fixes. Perhaps you can recommend Tesla change the Homelink module?
 
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Homelink is a separate module and it learns and stores the command codes for your garage door. It is mounted near the front of the car. The only thing MCU does is remember the name and button. It sends commands to the module via the LIN2 bus. So if it's not working, it could be the module, wiring between the module and the MCU or the MCU's LIN2 bus. This bus is also connected to the 12v battery monitor, so if the connection or MCU was bad, I'd expect the 12v monitor to also not work and you'd get error messages.

Now the Homelink module has changed over the years (mainly to support more garage door codes and frequencies). My guess is if you have a very early car, perhaps Homelink command codes have changed and MCU2 can't fully communicate with the old Homelink. Ideally, Tesla should be able to send the command old codes, but the software would have to support it, something the engineers may not have foreseen. So one solution is a new Homelink module that is known to work with MCU2. It may also be some kind of service setting to identify the correct Homelink module type. Tesla is not a "Plug-and-Play" type system that we are used to in consumer PCs. Each module type must be pre-identified for it to work.

I know this is not your problem to solve, but just providing some background on how it works, connects, and possible ideas on fixes. Perhaps you can recommend Tesla change the Homelink module?

I am truly grateful for your professional and detailed reply. I think you are saying that the module of MCU1 is like PS/2 or serial port, and MCU2 has a USB interface. If what I understand is correct, I can solve it by installing a new interface, USB type. I will refer to the above information and ask the service center.

Thank you again!
 
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MCU1, MCU2, and even the new MCUZ (Plaid) all communicate to Homelink via the LAN bus. So the connections are unlikely to be bad (or changed).

Plug-and-Play is a system where if you connect different hardware - perhaps an Nvidia video card and then switch to an AMD video card, Windows plug-and-play will install the necessary basic drivers automatically. I'm not aware of any car manufacturer that offers Plug-and-Play. When you install a new module, if it's a different design, the software in the car must be configured for that new module (even if it has a similar purpose). I may be leading you off track with my Plug-and-Play example, but for the Tesla, most modules have to be specifically selected within the configuration of your car. Tesla's techs will do this when replacing a module that perhaps has newer features or functionality.

One simple example is the AP processor in newer cars. If you have AP2.0 and replace the module with AP3.0, it requires the tech to specifically select the newer version. You can't just replace the AP3.0 module and have it work.

So the two things I can think may be wrong are the configuration is not set for your old Homelink (if that is even an option for the Tesla techs), or the old Homelink is no longer supported with MCU2 (which would suck, but seems very possible to me). For the latter, you'd need to get a newer Homelink module and have the tech configure for it. You sort of have a rare situation, a very old car with MCU2 retrofit. I'd expect someone else or the techs have run into it (and hopefully have a solution). Anyway, I'd continue with Tesla and push them to solve it.

In my own case, I had a 2016S and bought the MCU2 retrofit. For me, it all went perfectly and Homelink had no issues.
 
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I am truly grateful for your professional and detailed reply. I think you are saying that the module of MCU1 is like PS/2 or serial port, and MCU2 has a USB interface. If what I understand is correct, I can solve it by installing a new interface, USB type. I will refer to the above information and ask the service center.

Thank you again!
One of my cars is an early 2017 100D. When I upgraded to MCU2 well over a year ago, I had no issues getting Homelink to work again. Took me about 5 minutes to reprogram. Not sure what your issue could be.
 
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I have 2017 75D.
Sorry, for some reason I was thinking this was a 2013 S. Ok, most of my answers would not apply. I and others have had no issues with this vintage. My best guess is the wire became disconnected going to Homelink (although I think this would have created an error), or more likely your Homelink unit has failed. Again, I'd press Tesla to fix it.
 
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I am having the same problem with a 2014 Model S with the MCU2 upgrade installed this week. Is the conclusion my Homelink is forever gone unless I buy an upgrade -seems bizarre as it has worked for years? Why doesn't Telsa "warn" about this so you can take care of it all at once?
 
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@mc2014S85
if it were me i would find a Neighbour or friend with a different or maybe “newish“ garage door opener type.
and ask to program car to it for a test.
I do not think the age of the opener is the issue. Probably the issue is the age of the unit in the car (2014). My garage door opener is less than 3 years old as are my neighbors'. The neighborhood was completed late 2019. Thank you for your thoughts however.
 
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@mc2014S85

First, have you rebooted after you picked up the car and waited a few hours? If your HomeLink worked before the upgrade, it should work after.

Second:
Before my MCU2 upgrade at the service center:
1) Saved all my settings by screenshots and writing them down.
2) Did a factory reset since I did not want any personal data left on the MCU1 and to avoid any garbage transferred over from MCU1 to MCU2.

After I picked the car with the new MCU2:
3) Did another factory reset.
4) Reconfigured the car to my desired settings.
5) Everything worked, except the proximity sensor warning which was fixed after a simple reboot.

If I were you, I would do #3, after saving all settings.
 
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Actually, the trip and the energy data are the ones I know of that you can't set back. By taking pictures of all settings, which includes the IC and all touchscreen tabs, before the factory reset, you can reconfigure everything back to the way it was and keep the trip and the energy data pictures for the records. It's been mentioned by many, and I agree, the MCU2 upgrades make the car feel new again. So, why not start again with a clean slate, i.e., factory reset.
 
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I had my HomeLink reset after a failed MCU2 (Infotainment) upgrade. When I got my car back the first time, there were a litany of issues with the software. I brought it back and they fixed it but my Homelink doing what the OP reported. When I first drove up, the chime and animation happened but the garage door did not open. I reprogramed with the remote and it works agian.

Good luck OP, no HomeLink is no fun. I'd push the issue because you paid good money for the upgrade. None of it should be an unsuspected downgrade.
 
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I agree with @Droschke. Seems a number of owners that have had odd problems with the MCU2 retrofit have the issues fixed with a factory reset. I know it sort of sucks, as you will lose all your personal settings, but it does seem to solve odd issues. If you do the reset, and it solves Homelink, I hope you'll let us know.
I did a reboot the very next day after picking up the car and still no changes. I have been also looking at a thread regarding the MCU2 upgrade that is addressing loss of Voice Commands functionality and Tune In app which will not load. Several posters report that putting the car in service mode and reinstalling the software will fix the issue without wiping out all settings. Although they seem to say that it takes a few days to work, which seems odd. I am considering giving one of these options a try as the Jacksonville (FL) SC is a nightmare - it is really, really backed up. It took 3 weeks for them to replace a "Pack Contactor" (error message: "Acceleration reduced/Performance may be restored on next drive") and install the MCU2 upgrade. All the while denying me a loaner and only reluctantly granting Uber credits after 2 weeks as my car is "out of warranty".

Which would you try first? Any ideas?
 
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@mc2014S85

First, have you rebooted after you picked up the car and waited a few hours? If your HomeLink worked before the upgrade, it should work after.

Second:
Before my MCU2 upgrade at the service center:
1) Saved all my settings by screenshots and writing them down.
2) Did a factory reset since I did not want any personal data left on the MCU1 and to avoid any garbage transferred over from MCU1 to MCU2.

After I picked the car with the new MCU2:
3) Did another factory reset.
4) Reconfigured the car to my desired settings.
5) Everything worked, except the proximity sensor warning which was fixed after a simple reboot.

If I were you, I would do #3, after saving all settings.
I did a reboot the very next day after picking up the car and still no changes. I have been also looking at a thread regarding the MCU2 upgrade that is addressing loss of Voice Commands functionality and Tune In app which will not load. Several posters report that putting the car in service mode and reinstalling the software will fix the issue without wiping out all settings. Although they seem to say that it takes a few days to work, which seems odd. I am considering giving one of these options a try as the Jacksonville (FL) SC is a nightmare - it is really, really backed up. It took 3 weeks for them to replace a "Pack Contactor" (error message: "Acceleration reduced/Performance may be restored on next drive") and install the MCU2 upgrade. All the while denying me a loaner and only reluctantly granting Uber credits after 2 weeks as my car is "out of warranty".

Which would you try first? Any ideas?
 
Upvote 0